4.10 to 4.56 axle ratio upgrade kit for 2015 PW?

[Rodeoflyer]

I'm loving the oil change at 15k and put gas in her petrol life.

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[TankerZak]

The simplest solution (for the manufacturers) would be to design a computer program that will let the driver decide what gear to hold it in & for how long to hold it there. As we all know, the Hemi needs to rev to make its power. And to do away with the multiple overdrives. 5th gear should be 1.0:1 & 6th the overdrive. They would just have to have a rev limiter, to avoid engine failure. My atv had this back in 2003 & it worked well. (when pulling the weight sled, 1st gear Lo range, take off slow, then hit the rev limiter & just back off a tiny bit & hold it there, in its best powerband. Yes lower gears will certainly help. But a simple trans computer program change would be a great start & lower gears with less gaps in between them would also go a long way.
...

I still don't understand your beef with the 5th and 6th overdrives. Perhaps if you had experience with the 6.4 with the 66RFE you would understand why it makes sense. Towing at interstate speeds, the truck will stay in 6th on the level and shift down to 5th on the steeper inclines. When it's just the truck, it pretty much stays in 6th. There's nothing wrong with multiple overdrives even with the 4.10 gears.

When I had the '13 Powerwagon with the 5.7, it was a different story, it didn't do very well towing even with the 4.56 gears. So I got rid of it and got the '14 with the 6.4.

I don't know anyone with a Powerwagon that regularly tows as heavy as I do...

I have a 16 PW and my trailer is about 8500 to 8800 max. I run 35s and stock 4.10s. Here is the trailer, pardon my old Duramax in the pic.

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[Reloaderguy]

He installed a 11.5" rear axle.

The best year Power Wagon's come with 11.5" axles.

[Bill2014]

F Forward 15 years & everyone will think they need a 1 ton dually with 1000hp to pull their 8800 lb trailer.

So I shouldn't twin turbo the wife's truck???

Ummm - that kind of power is not required if you are geared low enough - but you should consider synchronized front and rear 2-speed axles so that you can split the gears.

[RustyPW]

He installed a 11.5" rear axle.

The best year Power Wagon's come with 11.5" axles.

[OffroadTreks]

He installed a 11.5" rear axle.

The best year Power Wagon's come with 11.5" axles.

It's true. About the best years.


Pretty sure I am going to move to 4.88's and 37's this summer.

[Colibri]

37's and 5.13's are like pb&j 4.88's are for 35's, they're a half measure for 37's. highway rpm is only a few hundred different between the two but performance is night and day. I have a truck on 37's with 5.13's and one on 37's with 4.88's Hands down go 5.13 for man tires

[Pit Slave]

I want 5.32's and 39's

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

[RustyPW]

I want 5.32's and 39's

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

Yeah............I want to run an Arrington 448ci crate engine, with 5.13's and 40" tires too.

[Rodeoflyer]

If we're just wishing upon a Star here I want the SAIL mega truck.

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[nts007]

I want my 06 powerwagon back

That's dreaming enough

[coder]

4.10 to 4.65 would only be a small increase in drive-shaft rotation only 11% for every turn of the tires, you might not notice much if any difference for the relatively high cost of changing gears in both axles.

[OffroadTreks]

37's and 5.13's are like pb&j 4.88's are for 35's, they're a half measure for 37's. highway rpm is only a few hundred different between the two but performance is night and day. I have a truck on 37's with 5.13's and one on 37's with 4.88's Hands down go 5.13 for man tires

Eh, I dunno about that math.

With the 35's now my 4:10's are about an effective ratio of 3.83, so 4.39 or 4:30's would put me closer to stock. And for a 37 inch tire 4.64:1 would be needed, making 4:88 a nice sweet spot on the low end of performance for RPM's around 2800 at about 65pmh. But the difference for a 5.13 is only 3028rpm at 65mph, so you might not be too far off on the recommendation.

But I don't think I'd want to tow from Florida to Idaho at 3000rpm all the time, I'd rather be under. So 4:88 I feel is a better effective gear ratio for normal daily use. And 5:13 might be ideal if you're using the truck more for play and less for work/transportation.

I dunno, just my opinion and that's not worth much. Although I haven't done the crawl math if anyone wants to try that. I'd be interested to know.

[nts007]

Idk how crawl ratio would change. You're only adjusting the final ratio nothing else. So if you go up 20% in tire size then by increasing the gear ratio by 20% nets you the same final drive as factory. The whole idea is to stay at the factory tire to gear ratio. I went from 3.73's with 31" tires and with 4.56 gears and 37" tires I'm under driving by about 3% which isn't noticeable. So effectively I'm adding no extra stress to the rest of the driveline like tranny and tcase with oversized tires. Rpms stay the same as stock. That's the end goal. If you changed the gear and did not change the tire size then you would be affecting the final drive as you stated.

[olyelr]

IMO, the 4.5 gens are geared to high from the factory. 4.10s and 33s just seems to slugish to me for normal daily driving/towing duty's with this bigass heavy truck. Thats why when it comes time for me to regear I will be going with a lower final drive ratio than stock. Not a ton lower, but certainly a little lower. Not to mention the fact that the tires will be heavier and have way less rolling resistance than the stock setup, which just makes it worse yet.