Help with Air Conditioning (broken line)

[DamageWagon]

When I pulled my valve cover off about two months ago I bumped the AC lines on the passenger side where they go through the firewall into the cab. I bumped them hard enough to break some connection loose and lose all the refrigerant. I tried everything I could for probably twenty minutes to stop it, thinking I just damaged an o-ring, to no avail. Well I was swapping my coolant yesterday and noticed what the problem is



Both lines sheared off. No clue how I managed to do that. They definitely weren't broken like that before but probably bouncing around finished them off. Now, I'm having trouble finding that section of line in a parts diagram. Does anyone have experience with that part? Is that directly attached to the evaporator core? I know the dangling part is the expansion valve, but what is inside the truck? I would have to pull the HVAC system out to get to it I think and k don't want to dive into this without knowing where I'm going.

Thanks!

[Pit Slave]

That is the evap core. Mopar only sells the whole hvac system as a whole unit. In order to get to it, you need to remove the dash. Book claims about 16 hours labor. Check aftermarket for the evap unit such as Master cool, but in reality you would be better with an oem unit.

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[RustyPW]

Believe you have to pull the dash to get to the evap. Had to do that on my 2G.

[FirerescuePW]

Yes, you do. Just replaced my heater core and evap. The entire dash comes out, unless you have done many and know some tricks.

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[Colibri]

Ouch damn dude I hope you're able to get that sorted out without too much trouble

[DamageWagon]

I spoke with a local dealer today. I think we're all on the same page. The expansion valve connects directly to the evaporator, so what broke off were the ends of the fittings of the evaporator. I'm still blown away that I managed to do that by just bumping one of the hoses with the valve cover. The wall thickness of those tubes is crazy thin though. Dealer said that to replace it I have to pull the dash, then pull the HVAC system, disassembled HVAC and remove evaporator. He said it is a massive PITA. A few people on forums have said you can buy the evaporator from Napa or online, there are a few versions and to only get the full aluminum one. Yaaay... We did discuss the necessity of this repair and have decided we're going to wait. Southern Utah will be the time we want it, but oh well. We've already made all our drives from So Cal to Sedona with the windows down lol.

[Retired BLM Rig]

My old 1st gen had 70/2 air conditioning
It worked good with a .99¢ trigger sprayer for a evaporative cooler effect.

[2010PWERWGN]

Removing the dash is not as bad as it looks. Remove center cup holder assembly, remove 4wd shifter for more room, remove the two bolts going forward into the floor,remove the glove box, remove right and left kick panels, unplug connectors behind right kick panel, remove column shrouds, wiring from column, shifter cable and brake switch, remove column and don't rotate the steering wheel, remove two bolts above column, disconnect the big connection by your left foot under the dash, remove the dash panel end caps to access the bolts, should be 3 on each side. Remove the e-brake release rod, Remove the A pillar trim/grab handles and connectors behind them if necessary. Carefully Remove the top two bolts by the windshield. Have someone help you carefully roll the dash onto the seat, it will rest on its face just fine. The wiring prevents you from easily removing the dash completely. Now remove the HVAC housing and disassemble. I would go ahead and install the cabin filter kit while it's torn apart. I know this seems like a lot of work but it's really pretty easy. I've done this dozens of times and the whole job usually takes about three hours. You can do this.

[DamageWagon]

Removing the dash is not as bad as it looks. Remove center cup holder assembly, remove 4wd shifter for more room, remove the two bolts going forward into the floor,remove the glove box, remove right and left kick panels, unplug connectors behind right kick panel, remove column shrouds, wiring from column, shifter cable and brake switch, remove column and don't rotate the steering wheel, remove two bolts above column, disconnect the big connection by your left foot under the dash, remove the dash panel end caps to access the bolts, should be 3 on each side. Remove the e-brake release rod, Remove the A pillar trim/grab handles and connectors behind them if necessary. Carefully Remove the top two bolts by the windshield. Have someone help you carefully roll the dash onto the seat, it will rest on its face just fine. The wiring prevents you from easily removing the dash completely. Now remove the HVAC housing and disassemble. I would go ahead and install the cabin filter kit while it's torn apart. I know this seems like a lot of work but it's really pretty easy. I've done this dozens of times and the whole job usually takes about three hours. You can do this.

Thanks!! If it takes three hours I am game. I don't think any special tools will be required for the evaporator. I'll see if I can get my hands on the part. I could definitely do this on my own then. I've already done the cabin air filter mod. Anything particular to really be careful of? Anything that tends to break during the process? Any special tools required for the dash besides usual trim tools?

[2010PWERWGN]

No special tools required. When you disconnect the coolant hoses try not to crush the heater core tubes if you're planning on reusing it. I would strongly consider replacing it too. And take your time with all the connectors so you don't break the locks. You might spend more time than 3 hours since this is your first one but just be patient with it and you'll save yourself a ton of money.

[2010PWERWGN]

One more thing, label your hvac connectors so when you disassemble the housing you know where to put them back.

[DamageWagon]

I just did a coolant flush a few days ago. How much am I looking to lose when I pull the heater core? I'm assuming not very much? Thanks for the tips this still seems far better than the 16 quoted hours haha.

I'm going to see if Napa has the evaporator and heater cores.

[2010PWERWGN]

Just pinch off the hoses, you might lose a quart or two.

[FirerescuePW]

Obviously this is the guy I was talking about with the tricks [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

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[DamageWagon]

Thanks for the help 2010. I found the heater core (more money than I care to spend right now since it works well) but I haven't found an evaporator yet. Well I found evaps on parts sites but it's hard to get something shipped when we are driving all over the place.

[2010PWERWGN]

I have found that when it comes to heater cores and evaporators nothing fits like OEM. I've never price shopped aftermarket cores but if the price difference isn't crazy I'd stay OEM.

[TwinStick]

Mopar heater core is $84.32. https://www.buymoparpartsnow.com/auto-p ... lines-scat

Mopar evaporator is $231.20. https://www.buymoparpartsnow.com/auto-p ... lines-scat

RA.com is $56-$103 for a heater core, and $36-$56 for 2 & $202.79 for a Mopar evaporator. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodg ... +core,6768