Homemade Old School Plug and Play Locker Bypass

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 10:23 am

I found a victim... I mean volunteer.
Working on a prototype to see how the new/old school locker bypass affects the newer trucks.
I'm curious to see if the traction control and ABS nannies shut down, when it sees the truck is in faux low.

Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:02 am

I really appreciate your efforts and wanted to say thank you for adding to the knowledge base of our little community.
It's guys like you that make this a great place

olyelr · Post by **olyelr** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:43 pm

Colibri wrote:I really appreciate your efforts and wanted to say thank you for adding to the knowledge base of our little community.
It's guys like you that make this a great place

Ditto!

There sure is an awful lot of stuff in that pic!

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 2:19 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:I found a victim... I mean volunteer.
Working on a prototype to see how the new/old school locker bypass affects the newer trucks.
I'm curious to see if the traction control and ABS nannies shut down, when it sees the truck is in faux low.

wiring supplies.jpg

I have that same remote, I had to disassemble it and glue in the loose circuit board.

w2dodge · Post by **w2dodge** » Thu Mar 23, 2017 3:51 pm

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Sun Mar 26, 2017 11:29 pm

I need some input from the 4.5 Gen owners.
Where are you guys getting a 12 volt ignition switched power source in the engine compartment? Pictures would be helpful.

The wireless remote switch draws 9 milliamps when it's off, which isn't too bad, but it pulls over 200 milliamps when it's on. If it was accidentally left on when the truck was parked, it could kill the battery after a couple days. I'd prefer to have it on an ignition switch power source rather than straight battery power. Is there an accessory power source inside the fusebox of a 14+ truck?

I got it assembled and tested it on my truck with a 220 ohm resistor and it works good.

I just don't have any nannies to test it with.

: The assembled prototype with battery ring terminals for now.

: Since this is a prototype, I'm using an inline fuse holder to make switching resistors easy for testing. The fuse in the holder is 47 ohms with 5% tolerance, which I think will work. However, if the computer is super picky about the resistance it wants to see, I'm including an adjustable resistor preset to 49.2 ohms which can be easily swapped.

Once it's determined if a 47 ohm resistor will work, it could easily be hidden inside the harness.

Thanks for the feedback and any input you can share.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:42 am

I pulled power directly from the battery. It was a lot less than ideal.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Mar 29, 2017 2:32 am

Reloaderguy wrote:I pulled power directly from the battery. It was a lot less than ideal.

Yeah, I don't like to add anything at the battery due to corrosion potential.
Ok... next question. Are the small fuses on the newer trucks "Mini" or "Micro2"? The owners manual says micro, but I want to be sure.

: I'm interested in F90/91. With the fuse in this position, is it key power or battery power? If you move it to the slot where the red arrow is it changes the rear seat power outlet characteristic (key vs. battery).

Since Ram doesn't provide an accessory power source, I'll have to make one with an Add-A-Fuse. I need to know what type to get though, mini or micro.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:39 am

Micro but I couldn't find them anywhere except from Ram.

YouTube · Post by **OffroadTreks** » Wed Mar 29, 2017 10:36 am

I'd add a power bar or additional fuse box and not attempt to do an add-a-fuse personally.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Mar 29, 2017 10:01 pm

MikeKey wrote:I'd add a power bar or additional fuse box and not attempt to do an add-a-fuse personally.

He's trying to pull switched powered for the remote so it can't accidentally drain the battery.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 12:53 am

Finally got the "Add-A-Fuse". Here's what it looks like for those that are unfamiliar.

: Just unplug the fuse you want to use and plug this in it's place, then plug the fuse back into the lower position. The bottom is the O.E. circuit and the upper is the new accessory source.

Since the bypass draws less than one amp, overload will never be an issue.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 1:29 am

Did you physically verify that fits in the fuse block?

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:15 am

Not yet but I will.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:45 am

I think that is the wrong fuse plug.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:55 am

Could you or someone else with a 16-17 pull out one of the small fuses and take a picture of it for me please? I don't a 4.5 gen at my disposal right now or I would check it myself.
Thanks in advance.

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:24 am

I won't be home until tomorrow. I had to modify an actual fuse which is one of the reasons I abandoned the ABS disconnect. If you found the correct remote fuse holder that would be great. Your remote could control the ABS and 4lo bypass.

olyelr · Post by **olyelr** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 2:44 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:Could you or someone else with a 16-17 pull out one of the small fuses and take a picture of it for me please? I don't a 4.5 gen at my disposal right now or I would check it myself.
Thanks in advance.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:40 pm

Yes, that's it!
It's the correct "Add-a-fuse".
Good to go!

14wagon86 · Post by **14wagon86** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 6:20 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:Ok, here's an overdue update to the wiring diagram for a 2016 PW.
First is just a simple update to my original diagram with the newer wire colors and resistance spec. using a traditional SPDT switch.

Locker Bypass Diagram 2016.jpg
Thanks to Reloaderguy for sharing the info about using the Homelink buttons to control a remote RF switch, here's a new wiring diagram for that application.

Wireless Control Locker Bypass.jpg
This would work on any Gen as long as you use the appropriate resistor.
Here's a source for a two channel RF switch. https://www.amazon.com/AGT-Waterproof-W ... _i=desktop

I have 14 power wagon.

So I get all the necessary parts and how to wire it up to the switch. However an adjustable resistor set to 49.2? I have no clue what that is and google failed...... you think I could just use a 50 as most of the time there is a little play in ohms??

Reloaderguy · Post by **Reloaderguy** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:20 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:Yes, that's it!
It's the correct "Add-a-fuse".
Good to go!

What was the source and part number?

Taylor04 · Post by **Taylor04** » Wed Apr 05, 2017 8:42 pm

This should work.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Micro2-Fu ... 7.h_810109

Del City has all kinds of good stuff.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Thu Apr 06, 2017 1:53 am

14wagon86 wrote:So I get all the necessary parts and how to wire it up to the switch. However an adjustable resistor set to 49.2? I have no clue what that is and google failed......

Sorry, that's my fault. The technical term would be rheostat or potentiometer, which is just a fancy name for a variable/adjustable resistor. This is the one I got from Radio Shack.

: RadioShack 1K-Ohm 15-Turn PC-Mount Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer

It's adjustable from 0-1000 ohms, just hook up your ohm meter to the center and either one of the outer terminals and adjust the screw to the resistance you want.

This is the one I made for testing.

you think I could just use a 50 as most of the time there is a little play in ohms??

The only problem is that both 49 and 50 are non-standard resistor sizes. The only one I could find was a wire wound ceramic insulated 10watt that was too bulky for my use. The closest standard size is 47, that's why I'm trying that in the prototype.

If you decide to try it, share some pictures of what you come up with.

Retired BLM Rig · Post by **Retired BLM Rig** » Thu Apr 06, 2017 2:07 am

Reloaderguy wrote: What was the source and part number?

Del City is a great source for parts if you're buying a large quantity, however I just wanted to buy one and a single 5 amp micro2 fuse, so I got it off of Ebay with free shipping. Shipping is always the deal breaker on a small order from a large company.
This was my source on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201443576416?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

olyelr · Post by **olyelr** » Thu Apr 06, 2017 6:22 am

You damn electrical gurus always get my mind all boggled with the resister ohm potentiometer flux capacitor talk.

Power Wagon Registry

Homemade Old School Plug and Play Locker Bypass

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