Yellowranger1's Build - 2016 Power Wagon "Blue Wagon"
- yellowranger1
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I'd definitely rule out bent rim from an impact, unless it's defective from the factory, nothing is impossible I suppose.
Fwiw, the shops haven't said they can't do it. There's a small local shop that has balanced all my tires in the past, race tires to semi tires, and always had good results from them. They did these 3x now, spinning the tire on the rim trying to eliminate or minimize this persistent shake. I decided to have a different shop give it a go (Americas Tire) and got the same results. I'm leaning toward a tire being a little out of round. I'm planning to go out of town camping for the weekend, going to try swapping front to rear one more time tonight and see what happens.
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Fwiw, the shops haven't said they can't do it. There's a small local shop that has balanced all my tires in the past, race tires to semi tires, and always had good results from them. They did these 3x now, spinning the tire on the rim trying to eliminate or minimize this persistent shake. I decided to have a different shop give it a go (Americas Tire) and got the same results. I'm leaning toward a tire being a little out of round. I'm planning to go out of town camping for the weekend, going to try swapping front to rear one more time tonight and see what happens.
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- nts007
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I'm not saying though that a bad tire isn't possible. It's just not as common as some tire shops will make you believe. Tire build quality is pretty good these days. I've had a set of general grabber red letter tires that all 4 took exactly 4oz to balance on exactly the same place on each tire. And having a bunch of wheel weights on tires and rims like ours hurts nothing. Just aesthetics. Is your vibration a fast resonance type? Does it go and come at different speed? A tire one will start and increase constantly as speed increases. A driveline vibration will start and get worse or disappear at higher speed. So many moving parts.....really curious to find out though. I'd really be Leary about what the shops version of balanced is. For example if you get it balanced say within 1% at 10mph that's 6% variance at 60mph. And due to the mass of our tires we tend to be on the Higher side of the percentage. A good shop can balance to 0.1 to 0.3% if they want to. And keep in mind balancing a 24-28" race car tire is far more forgiving to balance with a 0.3% error due to far far less centrifugal force due to mass and size.
Sorry I'm droning on lol. I've had many many arguments with tire shops and it always ends up being either a inexperienced operator or a cheap ass machine that is calibrated to 0.6 or greater error. Cheap machines that work fine for the majority. Again not saying your situation or shops are like that. Hope you get it figured. Keep us posted
Sorry I'm droning on lol. I've had many many arguments with tire shops and it always ends up being either a inexperienced operator or a cheap ass machine that is calibrated to 0.6 or greater error. Cheap machines that work fine for the majority. Again not saying your situation or shops are like that. Hope you get it figured. Keep us posted
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
What's your tire pressure? Are all your lug nuts tight?
nts is on the ball again with nailing down which axle and what rpm range and characteristics it has. It might take a few weeks of feeling different terrains but you can usually nail exactly which part is causing the problem. Swapping tires between axles is a great start.
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nts is on the ball again with nailing down which axle and what rpm range and characteristics it has. It might take a few weeks of feeling different terrains but you can usually nail exactly which part is causing the problem. Swapping tires between axles is a great start.
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- yellowranger1
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Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Thanks for the input, really appreciate all that. The vibration I'm dealing with is beginning around 55/60 on up leading me to believe it's a tire. Its probably going to take another try or two rotating the tire on the wheel again to find a sweet spot. Through tinkering with my prerunner and my dads rubicon (both on bead locks) I've dealt with bent wheels and driveline vibrations from either bad joints or hitting rocks. I hadn't considered the tolerances on individual machines, but I've had good experiences with both shops in the past. In fact, the only shop I've had claim outright that they couldn't balance my tires before was 4wheel parts! They didn't want to balance the 31" tires on my 73 bronco lol. I've run a bunch of different tires (Bfg, General, Falken, Goodyear, Toyo) since my other truck runs a spool in the rear and is pretty hard on tires, plus I like the smell of new tires only tire I've had come back as defective was a single 35" km2 that was replaced under warranty.nts007 wrote:I'm not saying though that a bad tire isn't possible. It's just not as common as some tire shops will make you believe. Tire build quality is pretty good these days. I've had a set of general grabber red letter tires that all 4 took exactly 4oz to balance on exactly the same place on each tire. And having a bunch of wheel weights on tires and rims like ours hurts nothing. Just aesthetics. Is your vibration a fast resonance type? Does it go and come at different speed? A tire one will start and increase constantly as speed increases. A driveline vibration will start and get worse or disappear at higher speed. So many moving parts.....really curious to find out though. I'd really be Leary about what the shops version of balanced is. For example if you get it balanced say within 1% at 10mph that's 6% variance at 60mph. And due to the mass of our tires we tend to be on the Higher side of the percentage. A good shop can balance to 0.1 to 0.3% if they want to. And keep in mind balancing a 24-28" race car tire is far more forgiving to balance with a 0.3% error due to far far less centrifugal force due to mass and size.
Sorry I'm droning on lol. I've had many many arguments with tire shops and it always ends up being either a inexperienced operator or a cheap ass machine that is calibrated to 0.6 or greater error. Cheap machines that work fine for the majority. Again not saying your situation or shops are like that. Hope you get it figured. Keep us posted
The race tires I've mounted and had balanced have been heavy desert tires on bead locks, BFG Baja KR/KRT etc in 35/15, 37/17 and 39/17 from new to race grooved, or even used and they've balanced out just fine. Only downside with those beasts is they can tend flat spot overnight, so it feels like you're driving on square tires for a couple of miles lol!
Tire pressure has been varied from 30-50 (max) My dad almost lost a whee on the freeway that was improperly torqued after getting a patch, that's made me paranoid so I always check and double check lug nuts with the torque wrench. I think the manual says 170 ftlbs for our trucks? Swapped front to rear again and it's helped.DamageWagon wrote:What's your tire pressure? Are all your lug nuts tight?
nts is on the ball again with nailing down which axle and what rpm range and characteristics it has. It might take a few weeks of feeling different terrains but you can usually nail exactly which part is causing the problem. Swapping tires between axles is a great start.
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What I am curious about is the difference I might notice by switching to the slightly smaller Toyo rt. Smaller diameter, but about 5lbs heavier. Probably not a big enough difference to make much of an impact on mpg though. Went out this weekend and averaged just over 10mpg on our way out, gaining elevation, and just shy of 15mpg coming home.
Got to use the winch to help a fellow Ram owner out!
SoCal dogs trying to figure out this snow stuff.
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- nts007
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Nice pics!! Snow and blue sky. Love it. Hope you can get it sorted tire wise. I'm really Curious what it turns out to be
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Nice pics!
Did you swap tires around again before your trip? If so, anything change?
Did you swap tires around again before your trip? If so, anything change?
2016 Ram Power Wagon Laramie - Granite Crystal Metallic - Ramboxes - 35” AT3W - TazerRAM
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Love the pics, wish I could make it up there soon!
Do you happen to have pictures of your rock sliders and how they are welded to the frame? I'm about to start on a set. Mounting to the frame looks pretty annoying on this truck.
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Do you happen to have pictures of your rock sliders and how they are welded to the frame? I'm about to start on a set. Mounting to the frame looks pretty annoying on this truck.
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- coder
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Here's the link to the RAM 2016 2500 Truck Wheels, Lug Nuts & Wheel Valves specs. If you convert the 182-202 Newton meters (why they use this I don't know) to foot pounds you end up with a recommended torque range of 134-148 ft. lbs. for your lug nuts. Looks like 170 ft. lbs. is a bit tight be careful you don't break a stud.
http://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/bbg/pdf ... twlnwv.pdf
http://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/bbg/pdf ... twlnwv.pdf
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
looking for better tires for my ride. which is better: KO2 or Toyo? any feedback would be appreciated
- yellowranger1
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Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
nts007 wrote:Nice pics!! Snow and blue sky. Love it. Hope you can get it sorted tire wise. I'm really Curious what it turns out to be
It was a good time! I'm leaning to just swapping to the 35" Toyo RT I have. The ko2 are a bit lighter and were originally intended for my prerunner anyway. If they have a slight shake on that thing, it's not even going to be noticeable when driving through the desert, but it's just annoying on the pw since it gets driven for hours at a time when we head out of town.olyelr wrote:Nice pics!
Did you swap tires around again before your trip? If so, anything change?
I didn't get to swap tires before heading out, but I had just rotated after the Grand Canyon trip. Tires were shaking before then as well.
Don't have any good pics on my phone but next time I'm outside I'll grab a few and post them up! Definitely recommend a trip to Alabama hills, lots of cool stuff to see around there!DamageWagon wrote:Love the pics, wish I could make it up there soon!
Do you happen to have pictures of your rock sliders and how they are welded to the frame? I'm about to start on a set. Mounting to the frame looks pretty annoying on this truck.
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Thanks for catching that, I made a mistake and was looking at the Nm before I posted. When I torqued them down it was 130 ft lbs, maybe I'll up it to the 140 range.coder wrote:Here's the link to the RAM 2016 2500 Truck Wheels, Lug Nuts & Wheel Valves specs. If you convert the 182-202 Newton meters (why they use this I don't know) to foot pounds you end up with a recommended torque range of 134-148 ft. lbs. for your lug nuts. Looks like 170 ft. lbs. is a bit tight be careful you don't break a stud.
http://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/bbg/pdf ... twlnwv.pdf
I haven't driven on the Toyo RT yet but they look to be really nice tires. They are E rated if you tow a lot, that may be a consideration. I like how my ko2 handle on and off road, and they are still super quiet after about 7k miles now. My dad runs 33" Nitto G2 on his 3500 and they are louder than my 37" ko2.TruckerZoom wrote:looking for better tires for my ride. which is better: KO2 or Toyo? any feedback would be appreciated
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- yellowranger1
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Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
After much deliberation, 35" Toyo Rt on the PW
35" RT and 37" ko2
Only have about 200mi on them, but I'm very happy so far. Tire shop maxed them out to 65psi so it felt like a dump truck on the way home. After dropping some pressure, they feel much better. The speedo isn't as far off, they feel a bit "sportier," zero rubbing at full lock, and they make a little more noise than the ko2 did. Not calling them loud, but the ko2 were really quiet for a big tire, quieter than my dads 33" Nitto g2 all terrain. The RT are just barely audible.
It wasn't fun, but I was able to squeeze the spare into the stock location, BARELY.
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35" RT and 37" ko2
Only have about 200mi on them, but I'm very happy so far. Tire shop maxed them out to 65psi so it felt like a dump truck on the way home. After dropping some pressure, they feel much better. The speedo isn't as far off, they feel a bit "sportier," zero rubbing at full lock, and they make a little more noise than the ko2 did. Not calling them loud, but the ko2 were really quiet for a big tire, quieter than my dads 33" Nitto g2 all terrain. The RT are just barely audible.
It wasn't fun, but I was able to squeeze the spare into the stock location, BARELY.
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- olyelr
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Awesome! Keep us updated on your thoughts between the two.
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Looks great, how do you like em so far? In my humble opinion 35" are the best all-around size for stock PW. If you can pick-up a tuner to recalibrate the speedometer it makes a big difference in drivability even with 35's...
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
- olyelr
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Hey, is that dirt on the front side of your rear trackbar?
2016 Ram Power Wagon Laramie - Granite Crystal Metallic - Ramboxes - 35” AT3W - TazerRAM
- yellowranger1
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Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I agree on 35s being better all around, I like that there's no rubbing at all. The 37s looked tough, but I'm planning on towing my ranger around here soon (including spare parts boxes and camping gear, etc) so the E rated 35s seemed like a better choice long term.coder wrote:Looks great, how do you like em so far? In my humble opinion 35" are the best all-around size for stock PW. If you can pick-up a tuner to recalibrate the speedometer it makes a big difference in drivability even with 35's...
The ko2 were definitely a bit cushier over small bumps and cracks in the road, but also felt like they "rolled over" a bit more in the corners if that makes sense. The Toyos feel more precise overall, and feel great in the rain as well. Looking forward to putting some dirt miles on them to see how they stack up against the ko2 there.
I definitely want a tuner to get everything back as close to stock as I can. I'm going to get in touch with a guy on American Adventurist forum that said he may be willing to rent out his tool to reset tpms threshold as well. I just have t been able to log in the past few days for some reason, even tried resetting my password.
I thought we were OCD friends... you're going to make me go lay under the truck in the rain to wipe that down now? I'll blame that bit of dirt on the trip last weekendolyelr wrote:Hey, is that dirt on the front side of your rear trackbar?
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- coder
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
What air pressure are you running in your new Toyo's?
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
- yellowranger1
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Im down to 50 psi front and rear. I'm going to try dropping a few more psi and find the sweet spot for empty driving around town. What do you run in your ATs?
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- DamageWagon
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I'm running 40/40 in my 285 MT's. You could probably go a lot lower and still have good ride. I feel like I still have right steering but the little bumps went away. These things have stiff sidewalls though.
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- yellowranger1
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Cool, I'm definitely going down a bit. My dad runs 50 in his truck but it's a good bit heavier with the Cummins in it. I was running 40fr/35rr empty on the street with the ko2.
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- olyelr
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Regardless of which tire you are running, the backs should have considerably less air pressure than the fronts when unloaded.
2016 Ram Power Wagon Laramie - Granite Crystal Metallic - Ramboxes - 35” AT3W - TazerRAM
- yellowranger1
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Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Just for fun, here is a side by side comparison of the 35" RT (pw aluminum wheel)/37"ko2 (pw aluminum wheel)/37" MTR (pw steel spare wheel) all are unused spres, so they are full tread depth.
37" mtr pw oem steel spare 40psi - 37. 1/4"
37" ko2 pw oem wheel 40psi - 36 1/8 unloaded and 35" mounted on truck rear
35" RT pw oem where 40psi - 34 1/2"
*Will measure mounted height and add here
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37" mtr pw oem steel spare 40psi - 37. 1/4"
37" ko2 pw oem wheel 40psi - 36 1/8 unloaded and 35" mounted on truck rear
35" RT pw oem where 40psi - 34 1/2"
*Will measure mounted height and add here
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I have the 35 RTs on a 2016. I run 50/45 and i find it a good balance. I used to run 55/45 on my Duramax. I find i don't need as big of a delta between front and rear unloaded with a PW with Ramboxes. But i also keep chains, winch gear, snatch blocks, tow straps, a good amount of gear in them. I feel its a great balance of wear, grip, MPG, and weight balance. I still have a good quarter to half inch air gap between the axle and my Timbrens. Truck feels well balanced as was a champ in the snow and ice we just had. I tried 45/35 and 45/40 but i was too sticky to the ground and MPG really dropped. I think right around 52/47 is perfect when hot and the tires are rolling.
10 psi delta between front and rear felt better with the heavier diesel and no extra gear and rambox weight in the back. That's my two cents anyway. At least on E rated tires.
10 psi delta between front and rear felt better with the heavier diesel and no extra gear and rambox weight in the back. That's my two cents anyway. At least on E rated tires.
2016 Granite Crystal Metallic Power Wagon Laramie, graphics delete, debadged, Thuren front and rear coils, Thuren rear swaybar links, Thuren front and rear trackbars, Traxada rear 1 inch spacers, King 3.0 (Stage 4) front and 2.5 (Stage 3) rear shocks, Boogie front bump stops, Cooper STT Pro 37x13.50R17 on XD Machette 17x9 +18 wheels, Centramatics, 5.13 gears, DOR steering brace, Thuren truss, Thuren King Steering Damper, Synergy Steering Kit, Thuren PW front bumper, Thuren rear bumper, White Knuckle rock sliders, Dethloff skid plate, Dethloff rear sway bar spacers, Purple Cranium Half Spider front and rear diff guards, Airlift 5000 Ultimate airbags with Daystar cradles, Bakflip Revolver X2 tonneau, Factor55 Ultrahook with 100ft 7/16 A.R.E. Spidersilk synthetic winch line, Zroadz Grill with slim 20 inch light bar, DDM Tuning LEDs/HIDs, Rigid Side Shooter ditch lights, KC rock lights, Rigid fog lights, Baja Designs rear lights, Magnaflow 19200 modified with upgraded resonator and after axle dump, tinted front windows 35%.
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Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I run the same front and rear these pressures have worked well for me and the tire wear is good, I have 35" E load range Toyo AT2's the manufacturer's max psi is 65yellowranger1 wrote:Im down to 50 psi front and rear. I'm going to try dropping a few more psi and find the sweet spot for empty driving around town. What do you run in your ATs?
- 20 psi (Off-road empty or loaded with camping gear)
- 40 psi (Normal street/daily driving)
- 60 psi (Heavy towing/hauling)
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
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- Location: Central Oregon
Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
I'm running 35/30 (warm) in 37x12.5R17 Toyo RT's. That is 30/25 cold. With more air, the tires were wearing in the center and small bump compliance was poor. I've run them from 50/45 down to 20/20 and with the current conditions in the PNW I like 35/30 the best.
- yellowranger1
- 250_Posts
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:06 pm
- Model Year: 2014
Re: Yellowranger1's Blue Wagon
Thanks for the pressure input guys, still playing with it little by little. I'm at 45/40, it feels good, but I think they're goi g to end up around 40/35 around town. Really liking the RT after a couple of tanks on them. I'll be going camping this weekend, heading out to the snow again and play on some trails. Excited to see how they do off road!
This also happened... They grow up so fast!
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This also happened... They grow up so fast!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk