Homemade Old School Plug and Play Locker Bypass

[ACRucrazy]

Sorry, I just assumed everyone knew where to find Leif's original locker bypass mod blog. I should have included a link in my original post. Here's the web address: http://powerwagonregistry.org/locker_bypass.php

Here's a partial list of the vehicles you would most likely be able to find in a junkyard, where you should be able to find a connector and component to cannibalize. I got this list from Napa's website after doing a part number interchange (Napa #EC913, O.E.#5161918AA). Just look for an ignition coil or two wire control solenoid.

Chrysler 300M 1998 - 2004
Chrysler Cirrus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2005
Chrysler Concorde 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Chrysler Concorde 3.2 L 197 CID V6 1998 - 1998
Chrysler Intrepid 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Chrysler LHS 1999 - 2001
Chrysler Sebring 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2005
Dodge Attitude 2006 - 2010
Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Dodge Magnum 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2005 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2001
Dodge Stratus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2004 - 2005
Geo Metro 1991 - 1991
Geo Prizm 1990 - 1992
Hyundai Accent 1.5 L 1495 CC L4 DOHC 1996 - 1996
Kia Rio 2001 - 2011
Kia Sephia 1998 - 2001
Kia Sportage 2.0 L 122 CID L4 DOHC 1997 - 2002
Lexus ES 250 1990 - 1991
Lexus ES 300 1992 - 2001
Lexus GS 300 1993 - 2004
Lexus IS 300 2001 - 2005
Lexus LS 400 1990 - 1997
Lexus LX 450 1996 - 1997
Lexus SC 300 1992 - 2000
Lexus SC 400 1992 - 1997
Mazda RX-7 1993 - 1995
Subaru Justy 1990 - 1995
Suzuki Samurai 1990 - 1995
Toyota 4Runner 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1989 - 1992
Toyota 4Runner 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1996 - 1995
Toyota Avalon 1995 - 1999
Toyota Camry 2.5 L 2507 CC V6 2VZFE DOHC 1988 - 1991
Toyota Camry 3.0 L 2959 CC V6 3VZFE DOHC 1992 - 1993
Toyota Camry 3.0 L 2995 CC V6 1MZFE DOHC 1996 - 1995
Toyota Celica 2.0 L 1998 CC L4 3SGTE DOHC 1990 - 1993
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1990 - 1992
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1994 - 1989
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1998 - 1999
Toyota Corolla 1.6 L 1587 CC L4 4AGE DOHC 1990 - 1989
Toyota Hilux 1993 - 1995
Toyota Land Cruiser 1990 - 1997
Toyota MR2 2.0 L 1998 CC L4 3SGTE DOHC 1993 - 1992
Toyota Paseo 1996 - 1999
Toyota Pickup 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1988 - 1995
Toyota Previa 1991 - 1997
Toyota Rav4 1997 - 1997
Toyota Sienna 1998 - 2000
Toyota Solara 3.0 L 2995 CC V6 1MZFE DOHC 1999 - 2003
Toyota Supra 1987 - 1998
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1994 - 1994
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.0 L 2997 CC L6 2JZGTE DOHC 1995 - 1995
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1995 - 1993
Toyota Tacoma 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1995 - 2004
Toyota Tercel 1995 - 1999
Toyota Tundra 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2000 - 2004

Here's my sorry attempt at a basic wiring diagram.

Locker Bypass Diagram 2.0.jpg

Saving info for a rainy day.. Thanks!

[Vee]

Nice. If I had seen that a year ago I would not have cut and spliced my wires.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Retired BLM Rig]

Can anyone tell me what color wires they're using on the 16 & 17 trucks for the transfer case position sensor? Also, does the connector still look the same and which color wire is closest to the connector locking tab? I want to try and update my sorry excuse of a wiring diagram for the new trucks.

This is what the connector looks like for the 3rd and early 4th gen. trucks.

[olyelr]

Can anyone tell me what color wires they're using on the 16 & 17 trucks for the transfer case position sensor? Also, does the connector still look the same and which color wire is closest to the connector locking tab? I want to try and update my sorry excuse of a wiring diagram for the new trucks.

1160_6.jpg

I dono, where the hell is it I only see two wlectrical comnections; one on very back that has one wire, and one on very top that has two wires.

I did, however, see i am leaking a small amount of fluid where the tcase bolts to trans. And no, its not fluid film

[nts007]

Can anyone tell me what color wires they're using on the 16 & 17 trucks for the transfer case position sensor? Also, does the connector still look the same and which color wire is closest to the connector locking tab? I want to try and update my sorry excuse of a wiring diagram for the new trucks.

The attachment 1160_6.jpg is no longer available

I dono, where the hell is it I only see two wlectrical comnections; one on very back that has one wire, and one on very top that has two wires.

I did, however, see i am leaking a small amount of fluid where the tcase bolts to trans. And no, its not fluid film

Check your tcase to trans bolts!!!! I had to rebuild my tranny and my tcase because they came loose. Stripped output shaft is not fun

[Retired BLM Rig]

It's a two wire connector. The TCPS should be located close to where the shift linkage enters the T-case and looks something like this.

The location of mine is shown in the last picture of my original post (above and to the inside of the front driveshaft, right where the shift linkage goes in).

[olyelr]

Yep, ok i found it. I couldnt get the dang thing unlpugged, though. Can barely reach it. The lock is on the back side where i cant see it. Is there one of those red slides that has to be moved before it will allow it to come off?

[olyelr]

Can anyone tell me what color wires they're using on the 16 & 17 trucks for the transfer case position sensor? Also, does the connector still look the same and which color wire is closest to the connector locking tab? I want to try and update my sorry excuse of a wiring diagram for the new trucks.

1160_6.jpg

I dono, where the hell is it I only see two wlectrical comnections; one on very back that has one wire, and one on very top that has two wires.

I did, however, see i am leaking a small amount of fluid where the tcase bolts to trans. And no, its not fluid film

Check your tcase to trans bolts!!!! I had to rebuild my tranny and my tcase because they came loose. Stripped output shaft is not fun

Thanks for the info!

[Retired BLM Rig]

Yep, ok i found it. I couldnt get the dang thing unlpugged, though. Can barely reach it. The lock is on the back side where i cant see it. Is there one of those red slides that has to be moved before it will allow it to come off?

There isn't one on my 3rd gen. I don't know about the newer trucks though. Can you tell the wire colors without unplugging it and which color is closest to the locking tab?

[Retired BLM Rig]

Dirt loves to get packed behind the locking tab. Try blowing it out with air.

[olyelr]

I tried attaching a pic, but it is too large (will have to upload to photobucket first I guess).

There is a yellow and green wire, and looks like the yellow one is toward the back (locking tab).

[olyelr]

Im sitting here working (typing) on the computer and two of my damn fingers are freeking killing me from trying to unplug that dang sensor

But, I will still be back out in the garage attempting again tonight

Why the hell they located the clip on the back side that you can barely get to makes no sense! Why not spin the dang thing a 1/4 turn!

[olyelr]

There she is...





Here is a pick of the back side where the clip is. Snagged this pic with my iphone with the camera set in selfie mode.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Yep, you found it! Still the same connector and the sensor just uses some different specs.
Okay... I'll go with yellow and green on the new 4.5G diagram.
Thanks for your help Olyelr!

[olyelr]

From what I've read, when Ram changed to the Borg Warner transfer case in Jan. 2012, the resistance changed to 60 ohms. I don't know if it's changed again or not on the newest models. I assume it would work on a 4th. gen, but I'm not sure. I think it's worth a try, since it doesn't require cutting any wires. Be aware that the 18 MPH and throttle mapping nanny still kicks in with this mod. Please let us know if you give it a try.

Good luck!

Really? I thought you have to tap into the two wires on the factory sensor, no?

[olyelr]

Yep, you found it! Still the same connector and the sensor just uses some different specs.
Okay... I'll go with yellow and green on the new 4.5G diagram.
Thanks for your help Olyelr!

Hey thats the least i could do. Thank you for all your contributions!

[Retired BLM Rig]

From what I've read, when Ram changed to the Borg Warner transfer case in Jan. 2012, the resistance changed to 60 ohms. I don't know if it's changed again or not on the newest models. I assume it would work on a 4th. gen, but I'm not sure. I think it's worth a try, since it doesn't require cutting any wires. Be aware that the 18 MPH and throttle mapping nanny still kicks in with this mod. Please let us know if you give it a try.

Good luck!

Really? I thought you have to tap into the two wires on the factory sensor, no?

No. Just unplug the sensor connector (that's the hard part as you discovered ), plug in the bypass harness, route the harness to your favorite switch location and mount the switch. Done! Plug and play.

The old, old school bypass required cutting & splicing wires, but not anymore.

[olyelr]

No. Just unplug the sensor connector (that's the hard part as you discovered ), plug in the bypass harness, route the harness to your favorite switch location and mount the switch. Done! Plug and play.

The old, old school bypass required cutting & splicing wires, but not anymore.

Hmmm, well the more I try to understand this the more I get confused Please bear with me...

In the picture of your setup below, are the very bottom plug/wires in that picture the factory setup that used to be on the trans sensor and it now plugs into your home made harness?

If so, then that means your harness has two added electrical plugs? I missed that part I guess. Let me revert back...

[Retired BLM Rig]

No. Just unplug the sensor connector (that's the hard part as you discovered ), plug in the bypass harness, route the harness to your favorite switch location and mount the switch. Done! Plug and play.

The old, old school bypass required cutting & splicing wires, but not anymore.

Hmmm, well the more I try to understand this the more I get confused Please bear with me...

In the picture of your setup below, are the very bottom plug/wires in that picture the factory setup that used to be on the trans sensor and it now plugs into your home made harness?

If so, then that means your harness has two added electrical plugs? I missed that part I guess. Let me revert back...

Yes, the lower plug and wires are the OE connector and harness.
Yes, the bypass harness has two connectors.

[olyelr]

Yes, the lower plug and wires are the OE connector and harness.
Yes, the bypass harness has two connectors.

OK, I am starting to figure it out

[nts007]

Let me try... Once upon a time a female plug told her companion male plug she wanted to see other people so they un clipped and separated. Then they happened to be at the same party and met new partners. Who happened to be conjoined twins. Well the female plug was very happy with her new male plug companion she was just fine wi her old male plug companion being plugged into a new female companion right next to her. So now a new happy but not warranty approved Union was created

[Colibri]

You should write children's books lol

[Retired BLM Rig]

Ok, here's an overdue update to the wiring diagram for a 2016 PW.
First is just a simple update to my original diagram with the newer wire colors and resistance spec. using a traditional SPDT switch.

Thanks to Reloaderguy for sharing the info about using the Homelink buttons to control a remote RF switch, here's a new wiring diagram for that application.

You can program the Homelink buttons to control the switch or just use the key fob that comes with the RF switch.

This would work on any Gen as long as you use the appropriate resistor.
Here's a source for a two channel RF switch. https://www.amazon.com/AGT-Waterproof-W ... _i=desktop

[olyelr]

I have thoroughly evaluated your wiring diagrams... and still dont understand them

[Bill2014]

I have thoroughly evaluated your wiring diagrams... and still dont understand them

Look at it closely... There's a left arm - right arm, left leg - right leg and a resistor schlong.

Does it make sense now?