OEM Wheel Load Rating?

[ScubaSteve]

Good morning folks. Does anyone here happen to know what the load rating is on the OEM 14-16 Wagon wheels?

I am about to be in the market for a new set of wheels to go with my 37's and I have been focused mainly on Method's NV line of wheels. I noticed that they have both the standard line, as well as an "HD" line of this design. The HD design has a wheel load rating of 4,500lbs, and the 8 lug wheel of same size, in the non-HD variant, is 3,640lbs. The only reason I am concerned is simply the fact that they do not offer the machined face color option on the HD model. Obviously the Power Wagon is not a serious tow rig, but it is a heavy beast, and I certainly don't want to swap to a set of wheels that are weaker than stock. I have looked at the VIN sticker for the GVWR, but doesn't tell me anything specific to the wheel on the truck.

Thanks.

[OffroadTreks]

You prepared for all the sheet metal cutting by choosing a 0 offset wheel?

[KevinABQ]

Or perhaps more helpfully, https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/ ... tment.html

2003-2013 4-link trucks, with 0-3" lift fitment.

Stock wheel off-set on the 2003-2012, and 2013 2500 trucks, is right at +44mm. The ideal aftermarket wheel off-set, for the best overall tire clearance, is between +18mm and +25mm. This gives the best balance between keeping the tires from rubbing, on the control arms and the fenders.

[ScubaSteve]

You talking about 6" of the seam on bottom of the cowl/firewall? If so that's cake. If there is anything more than that, I am currently unaware, and I didn't see anything of note in PWJouster's build thread, either. If I need increase the offset, I'll have to go the next size up to stay with this design. I want to stay with 17's if possible, but not necessary.

Right now I'm primarily concerned with the OEM wheel load rating, and can adjust course if necessary.

[Bill2014]

The OEM Forged Aluminum wheels have a load rating that is allegedly >4000 lbs (but isn't specifically listed)
Here is what is listed:

[KevinABQ]

You might try this too. I can't remember what the powerwagon sales code is. But all the wheels listed that it could be are 3000 to 3500 pound capacity. So I think the lower one you have would be fine. But don't ignore the offset.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/bbg/pd ... twlnwv.pdf

[ScubaSteve]

Kevin, if that PDF is accurate, the second one down is the factory 5 spoke Power Wagon wheel with option code WFV/WF5. Looks like 3,200lbs for the load rating. I would be inclined to trust that being as it is from the Ram Trucks website. Thanks for the link!

Also, I won't be ignoring the offset, I'm going based off of the success others have had. I'm not wanting to make a ~$1,000.00 mistake, trust me.

[TankerZak]

The rear axle is rated at 6300lbs. Front is rated at 5700ish. Your wheels only need to be like 3200lb rated each (axle /2). Same with tires and why they are usually like 3195lbs each. Not saying stronger isn't better... this is just the minimums to be out of the realm of "oops, I did a stupid".

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

[DamageWagon]

How hard do you plan to use the truck? Methods don’t like being beat on hard, but if you aren’t planning for that they’re probably fine.

Factory wheels haven’t been forged since about 2008

[KevinABQ]

I though methods made the military humve wheels. Which don’t have a rep for breaking?

[DamageWagon]

I though methods made the military humve wheels. Which don’t have a rep for breaking?

Hutchinson makes HMMWV wheels, which are steel.

Method uses low pressure cast aluminum.

Generally aluminum is much better in our applications. There’s high and low quality in everything.

[ScubaSteve]

Well...I abuse just about everything I've ever owned. I won't be going out and intentionally breaking stuff, but I expect to use it to it's potential from time to time. So that's what I'm most concerned with, hence the reason I'm looking into load ratings. While I know that's not everything, I figure if it's rated at or higher than the stock wheels, then I should probably be good short of some pre-runner-wannabe stuff.

I have heard more good than bad about Method, and have been hooked on their appearance, but I'm not 100% dead set on them yet. Definitely don't want a junk wheel, so if there are any suggestions other than the AEV stuff (which is rated the same as the non-HD Methods at approximately 3,640lbs, FYI), I am open.

I am curious as to what makes you say that the factory wheels aren't forged? That document Kevin shared states that they are, which is from the manufacturer's (Ram) website. The wheel manufacturer as stated in that document also appears to only make forged wheels.

Thanks for the help!

[DamageWagon]

The Methods are probably fine, but I’ve seen too many of them fail to run them myself. The lips crack, the center rims crack, and the spoke-rim connection cracks.

If you want a no BS wheel that holds up great, and looks great, I carry Trail Ready’s and I spec them for these trucks. High-pressure cast centers with roll-forged rims. They’re more expensive; up to you to pick the right cost/quality balance.


https://dethloffmfg.com/shop/trail-read ... #tire-size

[ScubaSteve]

I was looking at them on your site last night. Those are more of an endgame option and too rich for my blood currently with everything else I'm working on.

What is your take on Raceline? Right now I just want a wheel that will hold up that looks decent and isn't just fawking black. It's bad enough dealing with fake, simulated beadlocks on everything.

[DamageWagon]

Yeah fake bolt rings are trashy looking...

Racelines are pretty comparable to Methods in quality and durability. Different looks and options.

[EasyDoesIt]

Black Rhino Wheels?