2018 Power Wagon Brake Issues

[TankerZak]

I often think to myself how fun the truck would be with 4.88s or even 5.13s but then my practical side says "it tows 8000lbs fine with 37s and OEM 4.10s and gets decent mileage". Plus, the cost of re gearing can go along way to improving the suspension.

Agreed. I often think the exact same things. I still have bumpers to do. Regearing is on the list. I'm just not sure I'll get there... for the same reasons. I don't think towing 8500lbs is fine but it works good enough. Only diesel and non offroad suspension could fix the minuscule differences left. But gearing wouldn't fix it either.

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[OffroadTreks]

I plan on going to 5.13's sooner than later. But I'll be upgrading the brakes I think first.

[Reloaderguy]

If you drove a truck with 5.13s you'd reorder your list.

[Colibri]

If you drove a truck with 5.13s you'd reorder your list.

So true.

[horsetrailer]

I had the same issue and I power bled my rear calipers and I was surprised how many small bubbles came out of just the left rear caliper. I had a similar experience with my 2015 1500 before this truck so both times my initial grab and pedal firmness greatly improved. I this the just don't do a great bleeding at the factory

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[TommyDuncan]

Some knucklehead crossed 6 lanes of traffic and almost took out my 4 day old truck! I panic stopped and it didn't skid. I don't recall any abs feedback either, but it stopped ok.

My 2012 Rubicon was difficult to hold in 4lo in 1st or reverse. 4.88s and 4:1 low range w/37"s... quite often crawled over stuff with foot on brake only. Did a lot of 2 footed driving also.

[m25443]

The pedal should not go to the floor. Many times in Moab I was on the brake pretty hard for an extended time while creeping down some of the very steep downhills. If the pedal had gone to the floor I would have rammed my front bumper into the bottom of the descent several times. I used to have a Nissan pickup that did that Dealer couldn't fix it so bled them myself and fixed the issue.

Instead of removing the ABS fuse, consider getting the Tazer RAM and just hold the ESC button for 5 seconds to disable all the nanny controls, including ABS. To get everything back on just turn the truck off/on.

[Rodeoflyer]

I can four wheel skid/lock pretty easily now with the best pads and rotors vatozone sells.

It often surprises the hell out of me. I went from hating the brakes on this truck to feeling they’re more than sufficient.

I am still on toyo MT 35’s so...


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[FordyceCreekTrail]

It finally happened to me. I planned on turning around at the end of a mining road but a huge tree I was going to winch out of the way stopped me. The winch only tried to pull 20 more trees down as it would not pivot. Anyhow, had to do a nasty turn around on the side of the mountain and several times my truck would not stop with the pedal to the floor! This could be deadly in the wrong place.

[Chubbs]

I've had a few instances of soft brakes with my 2018. I dropped the truck off for one of the recalls and asked them to check it. They agreed something wasn't right. I had to leave the truck there, but they provided a courtesy truck. They told me they bled the brakes twice and it is good now. I pick it up later today. The nearest dealership is 1.5 hours away, and I really hope I don't have to bounce back and forth.

[ramv]

New brake pads (and front rotors) made all the difference on mine... Frankly, the rotors were likely fine, the stock pads suck, and the install of pads helps with a quick bleed (compress the pistons, force the air back to the MC).

They are big, heavy, stout brakes. Pads and a bleed should make them top notch.

[Jmarklowitz]

Mine is a '16. I have gone off on a rant before on here. Sorry. I now have a little over 62k miles on it. The brakes have been the worst I have ever had on any vehicle ever. Even a 1968 AMC. If I am sitting at a stop I can easily push the peddle to the floor. I have bled them several times. I've heard you need to get the air out of the ABS pump so I have done tons of panic stops on gravel to get the ABS to actuate, and it does, but No luck. I have asked a couple dealers to test drive it and all they have done is look at the pads and rotors and say their in spec. I'm going to just upgrade all 4 corners with new EBC stuff. I believe I have searched this in this forum and the consensus was the Yellow are the best??? I don't know if they just never bedded in properly or if there is some component like the pump that isn't right. I have read a lot of reviews and seems hit and miss but no real fix. Not just Power Wagons but Ram 2500's. This is the only real complaint with my truck. I would have test drove it more than around the block had i known about this before and would have bought a different one. Some chalk it up to the weight of the truck. I had a lifted 05 F350 diesel and it would damn near put you through the windshield. I don't buy the weight excuse. Friends and my dad all drive 3/4t Chevy & Ford diesels and they all have great brakes.

[Rodeoflyer]

Since my last reply to this thread I've relocated to higher altitude in Colorado. Since the move, I'm experiencing some of the similar braking issues everyone else is complaining about on this thread. I bought some dorman speed bleeders and Motul RBF 660 fluid this week and plan to flush the system this weekend. Hopefully that helps. People talk about the improved pedal feel with Motul fluid so I figure it can't hurt since I'm completely flushing the system.

I've heard many theories about the factory bleeder screws being low quality or maybe out of spec allowing air to permeate the threads. If the system flush doesn't help I'm going with steel braided lines next. New pads and rotors were a vast improvement over the stock parts but now I'm having pedal feel issues.

[StefanB]

2017 here, stock brakes are ridicolus, especially for dense german traffic
I went with EBC discs and yellow pads front and rear at about 1-2000 miles, significantly improved the braking, nonetheless a fat and heavy truck, never got around to bleeding the system or changing out the hoses

[RustyPW]

Since my last reply to this thread I've relocated to higher altitude in Colorado. Since the move, I'm experiencing some of the similar braking issues everyone else is complaining about on this thread. I bought some dorman speed bleeders and Motul RBF 660 fluid this week and plan to flush the system this weekend. Hopefully that helps. People talk about the improved pedal feel with Motul fluid so I figure it can't hurt since I'm completely flushing the system.

I've heard many theories about the factory bleeder screws being low quality or maybe out of spec allowing air to permeate the threads. If the system flush doesn't help I'm going with steel braided lines next. New pads and rotors were a vast improvement over the stock parts but now I'm having pedal feel issues.

I have EBC YellowStuff pads and sport rotors. Crown Stainless Brake Lines. And Motul 660 brake fluid. Big difference in braking.

[Rodeoflyer]

I swapped the fluid and did the rear speed bleeders this weekend (rear only, fronts were the incorrect size). I used a turkey baster to fully evacuate the reservoir, refilled and bled the rears. Then I evacuated and refilled the reservoir again to replenish as much as possible with fresh fluid.

What a difference it made in pedal feel! I've NEVER been able to feel the first 1-2'' of pedal depression on this truck but can now. And after one brake pump the pedal is rock hard.

If you still have the factory brake fluid, flush that crap out and put some Motul in there.

[EasyDoesIt]

I swapped the fluid and did the rear speed bleeders this weekend (rear only, fronts were the incorrect size). I used a turkey baster to fully evacuate the reservoir, refilled and bled the rears. Then I evacuated and refilled the reservoir again to replenish as much as possible with fresh fluid.

What a difference it made in pedal feel! I've NEVER been able to feel the first 1-2'' of pedal depression on this truck but can now. And after one brake pump the pedal is rock hard.

If you still have the factory brake fluid, flush that crap out and put some Motul in there.

What part numbers for the speed bleeders and what year truck?

[Rodeoflyer]

I have a 2016. The rears were 3/8-24x1'' but like I said the fronts didn't work. I'd recommend calling Russell products or Dorman. I plan to since I'm hearing multiple size suggestions from forums.