Power Wagon Registry

I haven't read every topic on this forum, so I apologize in advance if I'm repeating something that's already been said.

Reading many of the posts about the locker bypass mod, I decided that I wanted to give it a try for the lowest cost possible and I wanted it to be plug and play so I could revert back to stock if I didn't like it.
After doing some research, I discovered that the electrical connector for the transfer case position sensor is identical to the electrical connector used on many mid 90's Toyota cars as well as some mid 2000's Chrysler ignition coils and intake manifold runner solenoids. So I ventured out to my local pick-a-part wrecking yard and sure enough, I found one on a mid 90's Toyota Tercel. I removed the ignition coil and enough of the harness to serve my purpose.
Then I mounted the coil in my vise and began to carefully cut out the connector Everything works as it should and I'm very pleased with the results.
I know it's inferior to the new locker bypass systems that are being offered, but it serves my purpose perfectly for my 3rd. gen. application.
In the end I spent less than $20 .

By the way, if you ever have a problem getting any locking tab electrical connector apart, it's usually due to grains of dirt and sand being lodged behind the clip inhibiting its movement and ability to release. I find it helpful to use eye protection, compressed air, a mirror and dental pick tool.

Happy modding!

That's easily the coolest thing I've seen in a while, good work man!

Colibri wrote:That's easily the coolest thing I've seen in a while, good work man!

X2!
Damn , that's gotta' be one of the best descriptive write ups I've seen, with great pics included.

X3's!!! Of all the guys who made the bypass for the 3G's that sold them. Had to make that plug. No one could find it. You found it.

RustyPW wrote:X3's!!! Of all the guys who made the bypass for the 3G's that sold them. Had to make that plug. No one could find it. You found it.

....and found it in a golldang Toyota! Crazy!

Pardon my ignorance, but i have not read the write up on the registry. So how does this even work? Does it trick the computer into thinking the truck is in 4lo? And how, with a simple switch?

Yes. Switch and resistor. It bypasses the TCPS and gives the computer the same resistance reading as the 4lo position.

Coincidently, CajunPW was the last man making this style bypass when we were all on DT.

Sorry, I just assumed everyone knew where to find Leif's original locker bypass mod blog. I should have included a link in my original post. Here's the web address: http://powerwagonregistry.org/locker_bypass.php

Here's a partial list of the vehicles you would most likely be able to find in a junkyard, where you should be able to find a connector and component to cannibalize. I got this list from Napa's website after doing a part number interchange (Napa #EC913, O.E.#5161918AA). Just look for an ignition coil or two wire control solenoid.

Chrysler 300M 1998 - 2004
Chrysler Cirrus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2005
Chrysler Concorde 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Chrysler Concorde 3.2 L 197 CID V6 1998 - 1998
Chrysler Intrepid 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Chrysler LHS 1999 - 2001
Chrysler Sebring 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2005
Dodge Attitude 2006 - 2010
Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 1998 - 2004
Dodge Magnum 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2005 - 2005
Dodge Stratus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2001 - 2001
Dodge Stratus 2.7 L 167 CID V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2004 - 2005
Geo Metro 1991 - 1991
Geo Prizm 1990 - 1992
Hyundai Accent 1.5 L 1495 CC L4 DOHC 1996 - 1996
Kia Rio 2001 - 2011
Kia Sephia 1998 - 2001
Kia Sportage 2.0 L 122 CID L4 DOHC 1997 - 2002
Lexus ES 250 1990 - 1991
Lexus ES 300 1992 - 2001
Lexus GS 300 1993 - 2004
Lexus IS 300 2001 - 2005
Lexus LS 400 1990 - 1997
Lexus LX 450 1996 - 1997
Lexus SC 300 1992 - 2000
Lexus SC 400 1992 - 1997
Mazda RX-7 1993 - 1995
Subaru Justy 1990 - 1995
Suzuki Samurai 1990 - 1995
Toyota 4Runner 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1989 - 1992
Toyota 4Runner 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1996 - 1995
Toyota Avalon 1995 - 1999
Toyota Camry 2.5 L 2507 CC V6 2VZFE DOHC 1988 - 1991
Toyota Camry 3.0 L 2959 CC V6 3VZFE DOHC 1992 - 1993
Toyota Camry 3.0 L 2995 CC V6 1MZFE DOHC 1996 - 1995
Toyota Celica 2.0 L 1998 CC L4 3SGTE DOHC 1990 - 1993
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1990 - 1992
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1994 - 1989
Toyota Celica 2.2 L 2164 CC L4 5SFE DOHC 1998 - 1999
Toyota Corolla 1.6 L 1587 CC L4 4AGE DOHC 1990 - 1989
Toyota Hilux 1993 - 1995
Toyota Land Cruiser 1990 - 1997
Toyota MR2 2.0 L 1998 CC L4 3SGTE DOHC 1993 - 1992
Toyota Paseo 1996 - 1999
Toyota Pickup 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1988 - 1995
Toyota Previa 1991 - 1997
Toyota Rav4 1997 - 1997
Toyota Sienna 1998 - 2000
Toyota Solara 3.0 L 2995 CC V6 1MZFE DOHC 1999 - 2003
Toyota Supra 1987 - 1998
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC 1994 - 1994
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.0 L 2997 CC L6 2JZGTE DOHC 1995 - 1995
Toyota T100 - Pickup 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1995 - 1993
Toyota Tacoma 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 5VZFE DOHC 1995 - 2004
Toyota Tercel 1995 - 1999
Toyota Tundra 3.4 L 3378 CC V6 DOHC 24 Valve 2000 - 2004

Excellent on the plug and play.... will the old school pnp work on 4th gen. 2016? plugs look the same... wiring colors different. would resistance be same? Any help appreciated.

From what I've read, when Ram changed to the Borg Warner transfer case in Jan. 2012, the resistance changed to 60 ohms. I don't know if it's changed again or not on the newest models. I assume it would work on a 4th. gen, but I'm not sure. I think it's worth a try, since it doesn't require cutting any wires. Be aware that the 18 MPH and throttle mapping nanny still kicks in with this mod. Please let us know if you give it a try.
Good luck!

I am interested in trying this on my 2012 PW with the Borg Warner t-case. Where did you find the resistance spec for the BW t-case? So correct me if I'm wrong but, now wouldn't it always think it's in 4lo. I don't fully understand how it eliminates cutting and splicing the wires.

I am interested in trying this on my 2012 PW with the Borg Warner t-case. Where did you find the resistance spec for the BW t-case? So correct me if I'm wrong but, now wouldn't it always think it's in 4lo. I don't fully understand how it eliminates cutting and splicing the wires.

ggbull wrote:I am interested in trying this on my 2012 PW with the Borg Warner t-case. Where did you find the resistance spec for the BW t-case? So correct me if I'm wrong but, now wouldn't it always think it's in 4lo. I don't fully understand how it eliminates cutting and splicing the wires.

Im kinda guessing here, but yes it thinks its in 4lo... and when it thinks its in 4lo it will let you operate your lockers.

Yes we used to do this with a couple resisters and a toggle switch. The locker pnp is a much nicer system than tapping into the wires that Come up from the tcase. Less permanent too

ggbull wrote:I am interested in trying this on my 2012 PW with the Borg Warner t-case. Where did you find the resistance spec for the BW t-case? So correct me if I'm wrong but, now wouldn't it always think it's in 4lo. I don't fully understand how it eliminates cutting and splicing the wires.

Here's the original blog that discusses the original (old school) locker bypass modification (including a wiring diagram), but it's hardwired and requires splicing into the factory harness. http://powerwagonregistry.org/locker_bypass.php

This thread that you're reading now explains how to acquire the O.E. style connectors to make it so you can just unplug the transfer case position sensor and plug the bypass into the factory harness and TCPS without cutting any wires. With the switch flipped one way everything works like normal. With the switch flipped the other way, the bypass fools the truck into thinking that the transfer case has been shifted into 4 Low and allows you to disconnect the sway bar and lock the lockers in 2 High or 4 High. The single pole double throw (on, on) switch is either on normal or on bypass. When it's on bypass, the "4 Low" indicator will illuminate on the instrument cluster telling you that the bypass is activated.

At the end of this thread (http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... ohms#p6987 ) is where the 60 ohm resistance change is mentioned.
If you want to just buy the new style locker bypass, they are available here. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/viewforum.php?f=22
The new system overrides the 18 MPH speed limit and throttle mapping nannies.

I hope this helps to answers your questions and isn't too confusing. Let me know if you need more help.

Excellent write up! I may have to give it a go.

The throttle mapping is the rub with the old type bypass. In my '09, it's slow getting power until roughly 3000 rpm, then comes on hard. Be aware of that, it can cause all kinds of interesting things to happen.

Thanks for the replies. I think it's starting to sink in. Both ends of the oe style connectors are required from donor. Then add the switch and resistors in between the original t-case position sensor. Seems like a viable option compared to new style plug and play. $50 vs $300. Being able to exceed 18mph with lockers and sway bar would be nice at times with the new style. Does the old school pnp help activation speed at all?

ggbull wrote:Does the old school pnp help activation speed at all?

Not in my experience.

Here's my sorry attempt at a basic wiring diagram.

Thanks Blm for reply, sorry haven't been on in awhile. I'm checking into new locker bypass kit availability on 2016. emailed today. btw... had old school mod wired but never got correct resistance, pulled setup. also thanks for summing up throttle position and speed sensor limiting old school bypass mod.

Finally had a chance to install old school bypass in 2016 power wagon. 60 ohm resistance was not correct in my Truck. Read resistance of factory switch (49.2 ohms). Readjusted potentiometer to 49.2 ohms and checked bypass. All works as it should.

ACBoomer16 wrote:Finally had a chance to install old school bypass in 2016 power wagon. 60 ohm resistance was not correct in my Truck. Read resistance of factory switch (49.2 ohms). Readjusted potentiometer to 49.2 ohms and checked bypass. All works as it should.

I need more info please.

ACBoomer16 wrote:Finally had a chance to install old school bypass in 2016 power wagon. 60 ohm resistance was not correct in my Truck. Read resistance of factory switch (49.2 ohms). Readjusted potentiometer to 49.2 ohms and checked bypass. All works as it should.

That's great news! Good job!!
Who's next?

Retired BLM Rig wrote:

ACBoomer16 wrote:Finally had a chance to install old school bypass in 2016 power wagon. 60 ohm resistance was not correct in my Truck. Read resistance of factory switch (49.2 ohms). Readjusted potentiometer to 49.2 ohms and checked bypass. All works as it should.

That's great news! Good job!!
Who's next?

I would be, but i need directions to follow. Preferably with color photos.

Is there a serve yourself type wrecking yard anywhere near you and a Radio Shack? I would start there to get the components. You can buy the components new at the auto parts store, but your cost would skyrocket toward $100.
I'll do the best I can to walk you through it, if you're really interested.

Retired BLM Rig wrote:Is there a serve yourself type wrecking yard anywhere near you and a Radio Shack? I would start there to get the components. You can buy the components new at the auto parts store, but your cost would skyrocket toward $100.
I'll do the best I can to walk you through it, if you're really interested.

Heck yea im interested, but i have no electrical skills what so ever.

That is why when i had my jk, i bought a $100 kit to do this, yet it could be wired up for less than 20 bucks by someone who knows what they are doing. The kit had directions and all necessary hardware, so i splurged.