Power Wagon Registry

Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:24 am

I'll leave this here in case someone else in the future wants to hardwire their lockers from the SmartBar connector.


154963830000.GIF

Can you identify what all of the pins are for?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 12:25 pm

Can you identify what all of the pins are for?

Here you go: http://connectors.dcctools.com/details.htm?id=163539

Does the Smartbar circuit board contain the transfer case position and speed limiting logic? If yes, can anyone identify the circuit path on the board?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:06 pm

Does the Smartbar circuit board contain the transfer case position and speed limiting logic?

Based on the live data stream for the SmartBar, I would say yes.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:06 pm

If yes, can anyone identify the circuit path on the board?

I believe it passes right through the middle of the flux capacitor. If tampered with, it will interrupt the space time continuum resulting in your truck being filled with manure.

Lmao!

I find it funny they have the speed set at 119 mph for the lockers to unlock lol

olyelr wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:32 am

Lmao!

I find it funny they have the speed set at 119 mph for the lockers to unlock lol

What????
you cant get to 119 mph in low range?
Have you tried??

Bill2014 wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:11 am

olyelr wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:32 am

Lmao!

I find it funny they have the speed set at 119 mph for the lockers to unlock lol

What????
you cant get to 119 mph in low range?
Have you tried??

No I guess not. I have been across the dunes in 4low in overdrive close to redline though... its nowhere near 119 mpg

Has anyone tried either jumpering or splicing C to G and D to H inside the Smartbar or the wires outside? It seems the bar is being supplied power but then interrupting it in the logic board. That is essentially what the 4th Gen locker bypass is doing at the plug next to the computer. It'll throw a code but will be hard wired to the OE knob. Maybe a resistor or capacitor soldered directly onto the board can satisfy the position logic?

Why don’t you try it? And report back.

I probably will but it's going to be a while, I don't have a Smartbar in my truck and the factory wiring isn't running to my lockers.

Can I have your old smartbar?

Mine is in route to PitSlave and my spare unit is promised now to another dude.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:36 pm

Mine is in route to PitSlave...

Im liking the sounds of this!

I popped the hood today and started to get tools out to pull the module mounted behind the grill when I came to the realization I just don't care that much. Maybe when I do the steering or bumper I'll have more interest...or not. Either way, good luck to you guys.

^^^^^ the death of 98.7% of all projects

My shit works and that’s about the extent of my caring as well, lol

I already have a bypass. Maybe one of you guys that want to bypass your lockers can try jumping the pins i mentioned earlier and see what happens.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 10:09 am

I already have a bypass. Maybe one of you guys that want to bypass your lockers can try jumping the pins i mentioned earlier and see what happens.

I'm pretty sure that jumping those pins would result in a dead short and a blown fuse, unless I'm misunderstanding your meaning somehow.

Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:45 am

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 10:09 am

I already have a bypass. Maybe one of you guys that want to bypass your lockers can try jumping the pins i mentioned earlier and see what happens.

I'm pretty sure that jumping those pins would result in a dead short and a blown fuse, unless I'm misunderstanding your meaning somehow.

Isn't the locker return the power source to the locker?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 5:30 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:45 am

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 10:09 am

I already have a bypass. Maybe one of you guys that want to bypass your lockers can try jumping the pins i mentioned earlier and see what happens.

I'm pretty sure that jumping those pins would result in a dead short and a blown fuse, unless I'm misunderstanding your meaning somehow.

Isn't the locker return the power source to the locker?

Ah yes... Ram and their unfortunate choice of words for describing a circuit. It's like they make it confusing on purpose.
As far as the locker actuators are concerned:

• "Source" means +12 Volt or power

• "Return" means -12 Volt or ground

On this image that I posted earlier, pins C & D would be +12 volt/power being sent from the SmartBar to the locker actuators and pins G & H would be -12 volt/ground being sent from the SmartBar to the locker actuators.



I know that technically electricity is always looking for the path of least resistance to ground and circuits are usually viewed as being a loop, so + is the source of power being sent out and - is the return path to the ground that the electrons are looking for.
That's my best attempt at explaining why they use the terms "Source" and "Return".

My volt meter would have stopped me from wiring the positive into the negative. LOL

So which is the locker power out from the smartbar?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:19 pm

So which is the locker power out from the smartbar?

Pin C is power going out to the front locker.
Pin D is power going out to the rear locker.

BLM Rig, do you know if G/H are a common ground, or a floating ground that's only grounded when C/D are hot? If G/H are common and always grounded, one should be able to tap only into C/D right by the smart bar and save a lot of wiring. Would diodes be necessary to keep from back feeding +12V into the smartbar?

Low_Sky wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:18 pm

BLM Rig, do you know if G/H are a common ground, or a floating ground that's only grounded when C/D are hot? If G/H are common and always grounded, one should be able to tap only into C/D right by the smart bar and save a lot of wiring. Would diodes be necessary to keep from back feeding +12V into the smartbar?

Sorry I haven't had the need to test the ground side of the system yet, I don't know.

Yes, I would use diodes to protect the SmartBar if it was still going to be in the system. I would also use potted or weatherproof relays that have a built-in voltage spike suppressing diode or resistor like this one to protect any delicate electronics that were still part of the system.

Low_Sky wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:18 pm

BLM Rig, do you know if G/H are a common ground, or a floating ground that's only grounded when C/D are hot? If G/H are common and always grounded, one should be able to tap only into C/D right by the smart bar and save a lot of wiring. Would diodes be necessary to keep from back feeding +12V into the smartbar?

That's what I was thinking. The locker power source is a connector on the passenger side of the rad, I'm just not sure which pins are the power in for the lockers in the Smartbar.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:04 pm

... I'm just not sure which pins are the power in for the lockers in the Smartbar.

Looks like they are C & D, no?