DamageWagon wrote:A month ago/2000 miles
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DamageWagon wrote:Thank you, those are all really good suggestions. The old plugs looked to be a little lean. I don't know if that's normal on these engines?
I have swapped coil packs with no change. I cleaned the MAP sensor and PCV valve and throttle body. I sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold to see if idle changed, but it had no effect.
I will try your idea on the vacuum line. I think if that does not work I will get it smoke tested to see if we can find a leak.
I think I'll take it to a dealer to check for updates too, I don't think it's had one in a long while.
If these tests don't work I will go down your list to the other items.
I appreciate your answers, you might end up saving me some coin and a lot of frustration
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DamageWagon wrote:TwinStick wrote:When i replaced distributor cap & rotor & the factory coil with an Accel coil on my 88' Ford Ranger, I had all kinds of miss fire issues. Replaced with another new Accel coil. Same thing. Put a new Ford part on there & it ran fine. A mechanic said maybe the Accel coil was just putting out too much spark ? Kept burning up distributor & rotor. The whole weakest link kinda thing. I always used ford coils after that on that truck & had no more issues. Weird.
I think someone else had this issue a while back & it had something to do with the evap canister that is underneath by tank somewhere.
That's interesting. I was worried that the last owner replaced the coils with MSD instead of factory. He did this right before I bought the truck, but he said it didn't change anything. I still have the factory coils.
I have heard the little evap pump bolted to the canister can go out and cause issues with trouble codes. I might just replace it, that's a cheap part and there's no way to test them I think. Are you saying though that an evap canister problem has caused engine issues?
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DamageWagon wrote:coder wrote:Hello DamageWagon,
Sorry to hear about your engine troubles, it might be worthwhile to take it to the dealer for a diagnosys then fix the problem yourself. It will probably cost you an hour labor's but it's often cheaper than throwing parts at it. Good luck!
You very well might be right. I really am not considering going to the dealer because I've been through so much troubleshooting already that I doubt they will have anything new that isn't also on the list of things to still check, unless it is something that is too expensive for me to pay them to check anyways. They might know exactly what is wrong and have a fix that could save me a lot of time and money and energy
it's the thought that they could be complete idiots that take my truck away for 3 days and charge me hundreds to look under the hood and find nothing that keeps me from ever considering a dealership... I'm biased, and I know it. Maybe if it gets to that point, I will take it in.
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DamageWagon wrote:Ducky's Dad wrote:The dealer scanner can see codes that you won't pick up with a $10K Snap-On scanner.
I never thought about that. We used one of the nice Snap-On scanners a few times but it makes sense that the people who made the codes would have more accessible than the company that had to find them and put them into their products. Thanks!
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DamageWagon wrote:I don't think it's connectors based on the symptoms. Could be, but I'm led to think otherwise. One reason I think O2 sensors is that the exhaust system has been covered in mud for years, and I know that the added thermal insulation will hurt the sensors over time. O2 sensors live in a hot environment but once the sensors and cats get hot enough they start to fail very fast.
Drive ability is consistent though. I don't have a baseline, I've never driven another 5.7 but I assume it drives normally. It drives just fine once it's over 1000rpm.
One weird thing that just happened last night for the first time was that while I was driving home from work o noticed the exhaust started to sound really weird. It sounded really deep and resonant out of the blue, like it has never sounded, as if I was driving through a drive-thru. I pulled over and checked it out and it was running a little rough but not the worst I have felt it. The sound slowly improved back to normal. I started driving again, and it was running rough at the first light where I stopped. By the time I made it to the second light it was running the smoothest I have ever felt, no kidding. I didn't know my engine could run that smooth, I'm so used to it always feeling a little rough.
Does everyone else's engine feel smooth at idle?
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DamageWagon wrote:Thanks man, that's good to know! I don't think it's the cam because it is hit or miss, but it could be valve springs maybe? I really don't think it is but I could be wrong.
I'm open to pulling valve covers though
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DamageWagon wrote:FirerescuePW wrote:My exhaust has a deep, resonant sound right after start-up, when it is in the cold loop. Is it possible it is drifting back and forth between hot and cold parameters? If so, would this show up with a real time scan?
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That's an interesting thought, I didn't think of that. I wonder what determines which loop it is in? Is it the temperature sensor?
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DamageWagon wrote:Thanks for the advice guys, it has been solid.
I'm thinking there are codes in there that are not showing up like has been said. I will have rough running and even blatant misfires and it will not trigger the CEL. A few times though it did trigger the CEL and was flashing. I'll try to get my emissions codes taken care of and then proceed from there. Minor and major evap system leak is what the codes are
0440
0456
0457
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DamageWagon wrote:TwinStick wrote:Minor evap leaks are usually the gas cap.
Tried putting grease on the gas cap deal. Also replaced gas cap with a Mopar one. No success. Im worried that after the fence got wrapped around my driveshaft it maybe caused a minor puncture if he gas tank. I cannot find one but my understanding is that even the tiniest puncture will fail evap self-tests. Don't know. My cummins never had this crap...
My truck had lockers... My truck has lockers... My truck is lighter... I love my wagon... I love my wagon...
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Please excuse me, I'm not trying to be critical, but don't you see a pattern developing here ? IMO, try to find a reputable Dealership ( hell, there is gotta' be one in all of SoCal ) , pay for a scan to try to pinpoint the problem, but repair it yourself. It could get very frustrating and very expensive to just throw theory and parts at it.