How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

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nts007
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How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by nts007 » Fri Aug 21, 2015 4:15 pm

Hey guys here is a brief write up on how to change your front wheel bearings. Really it is fairly simple but I know some people are still a little unsure how to do it. So here is a brief demonstration.
Tools you need
Basic socket set.
Needle nose pliers
Breaker bar
Long steel spike (or something long and strong but no more than 1 1/4" thick
6-8" 3 jaw puller
1 3/4" socket and ratchet or bar for it
Hammer
New wheel bearing (obviously)

During this process you have the chance to change the ujoint like I did as mine was ceasing up badly.
Also this is a very good time to grease aftermarket ball joints if you have them
Get yourself ready to go. I'm not going to show you how to take the wheel off
Attachments
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Get your stuff ready
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Using the same socket that you used to remove your wheel lug nuts, remove the brake caliper carrier bracket. Don't bother taking the caliper off the bracket. Just remove the bracket
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Unhook the abs line from the inside fender
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A milk crate is the perfect height to store the caliper out of the way
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Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut on the hub then Use the 1 3/4 socket to break the nut free. It will spin off fairly easy once broken. Use a long bar to keep the hub from turning
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This stuff works awesome if you need it ever
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Next remove these 4 bolts from the backside of the knuckle. These 4 bolts hold the unit bearing on. Don't lose Em. Also don't skip this step and start pulling the bearing. They are 18mm socket
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Using the 3jaw pry the hub off the spline. This won't hurt anything. Once it pops the rust it will come off easy
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Alright so now you are at this point. Here you can choose to install the new bearing in the reverse order of removal or continue on to the ujoint
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In my case out it comes to remove the ujoint
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I always bag the splines to keep Em clean. Anything works
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This is a good time to grease things so pull out your magic great kit and find the needle grease end. Not the actually needle grease injector just one like this
Last edited by nts007 on Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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nts007
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing

Post by nts007 » Fri Aug 21, 2015 4:22 pm

Continued
Attachments
image.jpg
Using this little guy grease that pesky lower dynatrac ball joint
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There. All greased. Got about 3 shots in it
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I replaced the ujoint with a new spicer. This is far more difficult than changing a wheel bearing. Someone else can post how to
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Install axle shaft and then slide on new wheel bearing. Now thread all 4 hub bolts and alternating them tighten the hub into the knuckle
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Tighten down the hub but and replace cotter pin
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And there you go. After reinstalling brake caliper and the abs line. DONT forget the abs line!!
You have finished your wheel bearing. Total time for the change not including the greasing or the ujoint is 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Anyone can do it
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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verdesardog
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing

Post by verdesardog » Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:16 pm

you did all that work but didn't quite finish it :ugeek:

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nts007
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Re: How to change a A Frong Wheel Bearing

Post by nts007 » Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:36 pm

No I finished. The unit bearings only cost $330 each. They last 80 to 130k km. sometimes longer.i can't justify the cost of a free spin kit
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

TwinStick
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by TwinStick » Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:44 pm

Wow, just looked em up on rock auto for my truck. Timken HA590166, #5179955AA, $131.79 each. Maybe the diesels are different ???

Good write up. Thanks. This will help people out. :rockon:
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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nts007
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by nts007 » Sat Aug 22, 2015 12:52 am

TwinStick wrote:Wow, just looked em up on rock auto for my truck. Timken HA590166, #5179955AA, $131.79 each. Maybe the diesels are different ???

Good write up. Thanks. This will help people out. :rockon:
They are listed here at $600. Rock auto is always cheap but add exchange and shipping and you may save $20 at the end of it. Plus you wait for a week or 2. This is walk in walk out. I'm ok with it. Free spin kit would cost me $3000 at least.
Also I have 09 pw axles. The ones for my original 08 axles were $290 each. For the 05 it's $240. The 09 hub is bigger than the 08
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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fbenross
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by fbenross » Sat Aug 22, 2015 2:47 pm

Thanks for the nice write up...I have new Timkens that I haven't installed yet. I paid $140.99 ea. from Rock Auto, but that was 2 years ago.
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by Chiprat1 » Fri Aug 28, 2015 12:44 pm

You really need to read and adhere to the torque spec on the Big nut and cotter pin. Just tight will not do it, and you will be back in there again.
2006 Power Wagon
Line X – 2in Front Leveler (Pro Comp), Hard wired Lockers, Front Fog Lights,
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nts007
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Re: How to change a A Front Wheel Bearing

Post by nts007 » Fri Aug 28, 2015 1:44 pm

Yes I will. In 80-150k km.

In all truthfulness do you really believe that the dodge techs ever pay attention to torque specs? I know they don't. Only on engine and suspension critical areas. I have many friends that are and have been Chrysler mechanics. On a wheel bearing they just mark the old and realign to the mark when tightening.
In this case the nut is just holding the spline shaft to the hub. The hub is bolted to the knuckle. The spline axle shaft is only connected to the hub and it free floats into the diff. So yes. Tight is tight. Not broke tight but not gonna move tight. The nut just holds the axle shaft in place and is not a support or preload like a Dana 60. It's a unit bearing. Remove the nut and shaft and you can still drive
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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