Power Wagon Registry

1 Ton Tranny Cooler Install

Finally got around to installing my new 1 ton Hemi tranny cooler today. Thanks to TwinStick for the part number.
Part number for the cooler is 52029089AB.
It should only take some one about 15 minutes to install the new cooler. It's that easy.

Remove your air box. You have a easier time time getting to the tranny line couplers.

1st pic. You have to remove this bolt on the cooler.
2nd pic. Remove this bolt on the upper left corner of the radiator. It makes it easier to remove the install the coolers.
3rd pic. Use one of these tools to separate the tranny line couplers.
4th pic. Heres the tranny line couplers.
5th pic. You can see the difference in the sizes.
6th and 7th pics. You need to get 2 of those fender nut fasteners for the top 2 supports.
8th pic is everything mounted up.

Started the PW up. And took it for a spin around the block. Checked for leaks, and checked the tranny fluid level. No leaks, and added a little over a 1/2 quart of tranny fluid.

ADDING ZERKS TO WHEEL BEARINGS


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... ostcount=1

AZRACER's wiring diagram for off highway lighting - 2009 specific

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost3835020

High Output Alternators & Stuff

http://www.alternatorparts.com/#Chrysler

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com ... -250xp.htm

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/category/hig ... &model=Ram


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost4013202
I spent a couple of hours (and some $$$) today installing a new high output alternator from DC Power Engineering. It is the 270 XP model with a peak output of 270 amps and 190 amps at idle. The install is easy and I changed out the idler pulleys and serpentine belt at the same time. I ran 1/0 welding cable from the alt. through a 300 amp ANL fuse to the battery, replacing the stock fusible link wire. Prior to installing the alt. I had replaced the stock battery to a Diehard Platinum and upgraded my ground cables from the body and chassis. Once everything was hooked up I fired up the truck and checked for smoke! Since nothing was on fire I turned on my on-board air compressor that draws 90 amps and with the truck at idle I was pleased to hear it running at top speed without the need to run the RPM's up to 2000.
I turned on the headlights and the A/C and only when I ran the fan at top speed did the compressor bog down a little, but I bumped the RPM's up to 1500 and everything ran fine. Apparently no issues with the ECU/regulator either.
The alt. is slightly larger than stock, but quite a bit heavier.

PREVENTING BROKEN TIE ROD ENDS

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=42

Note from Cactus Red:

I have experienced this failure myself, and it's not pleasant. If you have not been in for the H46 recall, please do so ASAP.

Locker sensor air gaps and LOCKER MAGNET PHOTO

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... ostcount=1

Note from Cactus Red - be careful, or you'll let the smoke out.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336101

Factory Service Manual online

This is a massive document. Sometime it will not load.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/31453690/2002 ... ice-Manual

SMART BAR GREASING

1st pic. Locate your smartbar connection plug. There is a strap that goes over the connection.
2nd pic. There is a button in the center of the connection that you have to push in to move the strap.
3rd pic. Push in the button and move the strap to the left (drivers side).
4th pic. Move the strap all the way over to the left. Once you do that. Now you can pull the connection apart.
5th pic. This is what it looks like inside the connection. You can see the light blue gasket in the top half of the plug.
6th pic. Apply your favorite dielectrical grease to the plug, and reinstall.

Carli Ball Joint, DynaTrack FreeSpin Hub, RCV Axle Install

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340186

Front and Rear Brake Job. Pad and Rotor Replacement.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=340925

How to diagnose/fix leaking shift boot on G56 manual transmission equipped PW's

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost4194155

REC w/GPS/Sat/UConnect to MyGig RER GPS/Sat/UConnect upgrade project

Goes over in great detail for the swap as well as the dual camera setup.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343665

How to hardwire your lockers w/pics.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345187

Carli Air Bags install:

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346168

Wheel machinist to modify H2 wheels to fit PW's.

From Ducky's Dad on 19 Nov 2011

Wheel machinist to modify H2 wheels to fit PW's. This is the guy I used. He is set up with a wheel lathe and opened my hub holes for $10 per wheel.

Russell Machine
1700 W. 180th
Gardena CA 90247
310-532-5520
Owner: Paul

ALWAYS use HOAT coolant in your Power Wagons!!!

Original post:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353087

Post specific to HOAT coolant:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=13

LEAF SPRING DISCUSSION
Note from CactusRed - I'd like to bring this whole thread over, but it's really long.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354193

That's it as of today, 26 May 12

There were some topics I didn't bring over due to bad links or duplication.

I'd really like to see the original posts brought over to the PWR forum. If you were a contributor to the tech and have the time, please, please recreate your post here so we can 100% save the tech. If you do recreate your post, let one of the mods know so we can change the link from DT to PWR.

So, just like the old FAQ's page, this is yours to use. Just follow the rules in the first post please!

Mark

2009 Ram TSB 18-056-11

AZRACER:

Well I went in for my L16 tie rod replacement safety recall. While I was there I had the throttle body/fuel injector cleaning service done to preserve my warranty and my over all performance.

I left the dealer with a clean truck, fresh alignment and cleaned injectors and throttle body. But my wallet was $123 lighter. When I goosed the truck to merge with traffic it chirped going into second gear. I was surprised to say the least because even with the 33" tires it did not do that unless at WOT. I had corrected my speedometer last week for the new 35" tires and that brought back the performance to what I was used to but nothing like this that I was feeling now.

I figured something was up (thinking the injection cleaning had done way more than I thought it could). I went back to the dealer to see what he had done to improve the throttle response and firm up the shifts like this. Well as it turned out he reflashed my PCM with the new TSB 18-056-11 reflash. It is supposed to improve cold starting and idle along with crisper shifts and less hunting for a gear or lockup at lower speeds like 35mph. The drive by wire feeling is less noticeable on the street too!

Flash Update Power Train Control Module / Software Improvement
TSB # 18-056-11
Flashed PCM to updated Software Version # 6805

According to the sheet it applies to...
MODELS:
2009 (HB) Durango
2009 (HG) Aspen
2009 (DS) Ram 1500 Pickup
2009 (DH) Ram 2500 Pickup
2009 (DC) Ram 3500 Cab Chassis
NOTE: This Service Bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 3.7L, 4.7L or 5.7L
engine (Sales Code EKG, EVE, EZC, EZD or EZH) and a 4 speed 42RLE or 5
speed 545RFE or 6 speed 68RFE automatic transmission (Sales Code DGV,
DGQ or DG7).

I do not know if this new found pep along with the crisper shifting will go away as it relearns how I drive or not but for now I really like it!

I'm doing the Tune up next week and the dealer says my 2009 with VVT calls for double platinum plugs or optional iridium plugs. I went with the doubble platinum plugs since I am doing this every 30,000 miles anyway. I found them at rock auto for $2.69 each to my door with the 15% off coupon code and shipping.

I also at the advice of the tech got a Diablo Catch-Can ordered. From what he tells me the Hemi mists oil into the intake from the PCV like the LS1 does and this Catch-can keeps things cleaner inside the intake system by catching and collecting that oil. http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?mo ... ay&pid=162

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost4370976

In case the DT thread ever disappears:

Well, long story short:

I took my truck into a decent mud hole to try out my snorkel. I had muddy water pouring out from between the hood and top of fenders. The snorkel more than did it's job, as everything was kept dry in the air box. I didn't think it was that bad so I didn't take any pics of the mud hole.

The next day, my truck was squealing from the front. My initial thought was my idler pulleys, like it was last time I got back from Rausch Creek. I replaced both and still had the squeal. I then replaced the idler tensioner assembly which came with a new pulley on it as well. Still squealing.

I took it to a buddy's house and he narrowed it down to the water pump.

I purchased a new water pump from Auto Zone. I was having second thoughts about doing it myself, so I called the Dodge dealership to see what thier cost would be. $560 and some change. Needless to say, I did it myself.

I bought a jug of antifreeze, new fan clutch ($52 NAPA Part #271621 Heavy Duty, Reverse Rotation,W/O Snow Plow
Auto Tranny) from Napa, hose clamp, and thermostat.

1. Take antifreeze overflow jug off. (two bolts) Drain all anti freeze and disconnect hose clamps.
2. Take fan shroud off. (two bolts and then lift up on it.)
3. Take off three nuts and a bolt out of the bracket that hook alt, air cond compressor together on the top middle of engine.
4. Remove serpintine belt.
5. Remove two idler pulleys, and idler tensioner.
6. Disconnect two hoses on the bottom left( as you are looking at the truck from the front) of the water pump, and also the radiator hose on the bottom left.
7. Remove 10 bolts that hold the water pump on. They were very easy to take out, meaning they weren't siezed up at all. Water pump came off super easy.
8. Pull water pump out. I still had the fan conected because I was unable to remove it while on the truck. I didn't have the tool to hold it in place so once I had it off, I heated the nut with a little propane torch and it came off easily after I heated it up enough. There are multiple fans and fan clutches for the dodges. We have the severe duty, counter clockwise fan rotation on our trucks.
10. Clean the water pump mounting surface on the engine and flush out the radiator and motor.
11. I added a couple drops of 3 in 1 oil to the inside of the water pump near the bearings for initial start up lubrication.
12. Insert new rubber gasket into new water pump with a SMALL amount of gasket sealer and re-install in reverse order.
13. Install new Fan Clutch and tighten.
14. Fill Radiator and add 1/4 bottle of 3 in 1 oil into radiator, it helps with lubrication of water pump for remainder of life.
15. Check all hose connections and start up. Let it warm up to full operating temp.
16. Let it cool down and check Radiator fluid level and top off if necessary.
17. TAKE HER FOR A SPIN!

here is a fact about the new 2012 PW it has a 6-Speed Automatic (66RFE) the internals are the same guts from the 68RFE that's in the diesel, including the out put shaft.

UPGRADED BULBS FOR STOCK FOG LIGHTS

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =635#p7437

L.E.D. lighting & off-road lights & talk.

http://visionxsuperstore.com/
http://www.automotivelightstore.com/off ... spx?page=2
http://www.anzousa.com/
http://www.rigidindustries.com/Off-Road ... s-s/89.htm

Coder did a great shock comparison! Side by side data on the same route

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... 1724#p1724