Need help. What does my PW have?

[2k5PW]

Just bought my 2005 PW this weekend and it came with nothing. No owners manual, no winch remote, no spare (no biggie), no key fob (s) or any idea if it came with one...and I basically have no idea what options it came with. My VIN is 3D7KS28D35G901197.

It's got some stuff wrong with it, luckily most items are addressed in this forum I've been engulfed in since I came aboard. ANY help you can give me would be very helpful. I have no idea if anything has been modded/replaced/upgraded. So I'm pretty lost.

Thank you in advance for your help.

[RustyPW]

Post up some pictures.

[coder]

Code: Select all

https://www.ramtrucks.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=3D7KS28D35G901197

Add your VIN at the end of the link above and get your build sheet. I tried your VIN and it gives an error, I tried mine and it works fine, please check that the provided VIN is correct and try again.

[2k5PW]

That's weird it gave you an error. I was able to pull it up. And I'd wish I'd have waited before spending 5 bucks for the same thing.

Thanks for the information!!

Now I need to get a key fob for the keyless entry. Can they be programmed by the user? Also need a winch remote, came with none and no recovery package.

[RustyPW]

The winch recovery package was an accessory you bought from the dealer. That's how I had to it mine.

[2k5PW]

I see. Well I'll just buy my own stuff I guess. All in due time. I do believe I'll have to replace the front ujoints in the axle. No problems in 2wd but 4wd and turning to the left there is the sound of failing ujoints. However, I am going to retorque all the front end bolts in case that might be it but I doubt it. Needs to be done anyway on a truck I have no history on. Hopefully it won't be too difficult getting the rusted stuff disassembled. Lol. PB Blaster is my friend!!

[2k5PW]

Quick question, is the smart bar supposed to allow disengagement in 2wd? I disconnected the plug to it and looked inside to be sure it wasn't corroded and it wasn't. The rubber seal was in good shape and intact. It gives me the dumb flashing light randomly like it's trying to disengage and the 4x4 light comes on....again randomly. I've only driven it about 30 miles so far so I can't say any more about the "what, when, where" aspect from only 30 miles. Drain/change all fluids first before it leaves my driveway again though.

For what I ended up paying for it, I didn't get hurt at all.

[ScubaSteve]

Quick question, is the smart bar supposed to allow disengagement in 2wd? I disconnected the plug to it and looked inside to be sure it wasn't corroded and it wasn't. The rubber seal was in good shape and intact. It gives me the dumb flashing light randomly like it's trying to disengage and the 4x4 light comes on....again randomly. I've only driven it about 30 miles so far so I can't say any more about the "what, when, where" aspect from only 30 miles. Drain/change all fluids first before it leaves my driveway again though.

For what I ended up paying for it, I didn't get hurt at all.

No, the sway bar will not disengage unless the vehicle is in 4WD, unless something has been modified. I cannot remember if those trucks have a knob or a push button for the swaybar disconnect, but I would try making sure that either the knob is in the right direction, or push the proper button to engage the bar. It has a bit of a memory in my 2016 where it won't automatically "revert" to engaged at the interface. If I put it in 2WD with it disconnected, the bar will reconnect, and the light will be on solidly on reconnected side, but flash the disconnected side until I press the button.

[FordyceCreekTrail]

Quick question, is the smart bar supposed to allow disengagement in 2wd? I disconnected the plug to it and looked inside to be sure it wasn't corroded and it wasn't. The rubber seal was in good shape and intact. It gives me the dumb flashing light randomly like it's trying to disengage and the 4x4 light comes on....again randomly. I've only driven it about 30 miles so far so I can't say any more about the "what, when, where" aspect from only 30 miles. Drain/change all fluids first before it leaves my driveway again though.

For what I ended up paying for it, I didn't get hurt at all.

Mine is an 18 and I have never had the Smart Bar work as they are not water proof and need replaced with aftermarket.

[2k5PW]

Well, mine is a 2005 and it has a shift-on-the-fly 4wd, push button disconnect and turn knob to lock the lockers.

I'm in 2wd and pushed the disconnect and I got out and got under the truck and I could rock the smart bar slightly. I pushed to engage but it say there blinking.
I had to drive over 18mph to get it to engage (as it's supposed to). I didn't rock the truck to try to get it to do it by itself but it wouldn't be pushing the button.

I guess I'm puzzled why it did it in 2wd, even if it was modified. That would be pointless imo.

Regardless, it works in 4wd and that's good enough for me right now. It's just been sitting in my driveway waiting on me to get going on it. Busy reading and assessing my future parts list.

[FirerescuePW]

That's odd. It shouldn't unlock in 2wd. It should unlock in 4hi or 4low, under 18mph. If you lock it, it should lock as soon as the collar is lined up, regardless of speed. You may need to drive a few feet for it to flex and line up.

If you go over 18 while unlocked, it will lock and the light will flash. If you drop below 18, it will unlock again.

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[2k5PW]

That's odd. It shouldn't unlock in 2wd. It should unlock in 4hi or 4low, under 18mph. If you lock it, it should lock as soon as the collar is lined up, regardless of speed. You may need to drive a few feet for it to flex and line up.

If you go over 18 while unlocked, it will lock and the light will flash. If you drop below 18, it will unlock again.

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Well, I guess it didn't unlock after further inspection. There is a rubber hangar(?) that the smart bar attaches to and it rocked a bit back and forth inside the hangar. It seems there is slop in that rubber hangar. Not sure if it's supposed to be that way from factory or I need to replace it. ???

Found out also that my rear diff was locked and the light was showing that it was unlocked. I ran my obd test and found out it was locked. So I jacked around with it and got it unlocked and it stayed that way. However it will still occasionally flash "RR" and give me the "service 4wd" idiot light. I'm imagining a good rear diff drain, clean the magnet carefully with a q-tip, and refill might take care of it. Regardless it's getting done even if it doesn't solve it.

We have the same year and color PW. And on a tangent, I'm from eastern Ohio close to Pittsburgh.

Thanks for the help, guys!! I'm trying not to be a pain to anyone but I'm really excited about getting this truck ready.

[RustyPW]

I'm about 35 miles south of Pittsburgh.

[waldo]

The year one trucks were problematic when it came to the smartbar and lockers. Mine faulted every time it got wet. They never could fix mine even with a new smartbar and a harness along with playing with it on and off for over a year. They finally gave me $ to trade it on an 07 (which I still have).

[FirerescuePW]

Don't forget to set the gap for the magnet while you are in there cleaning it.


Best year, best color!

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[RustyPW]

Don't forget to set the gap for the magnet while you are in there cleaning it.


Best year, best color!

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[Mule007]

FirerescuePW x2 !

[trk4sale]

Best Year! (we have a panty hook) But white is the best color!
Hard wire the lockers. Easy to do and they work instantly every time.

[2k5PW]

Setting the gap...that's a new one one me. I'm sure I could find the specs on the gap somewhere. I understand the reasoning for doing it and it makes sense.

I'm sure I'll also have to get the Abel locker bypass and smart bar bypass if they're still available. But that's not a priority right now. I've got many issues to resolve. The rear brakes were "bypassed" meaning the brake line broke and was plugged with a screw and sealer and the bleeder was broken off. So easy-out it is. And some new brake line.

The exhaust is a true dual exhaust, kind of suspect attachment though, and mufflers are blown out. So putting some Thrush Welded mufflers and finishing the duals out each side behind tires.

AC clutch is bad so that will be replaced. And also the winch spooled out for about a second and stopped. No clicking at all. So off with the bumper and dropping the winch, tear down and clean, lube and reassembly is in order. Then it will be on the road.

Next is the front end ujoints need replaced. Thinking of Moog or Spicer... recommendations anyone?

And to solve the color/year debate:. I love my Power Wagon and everything about it. Even the stuff that doesn't work. I get enjoyment and satisfaction bringing something back to life and giving it some attention. I look at some of the members rides and they are amazing. I would be thrilled to own any of them. You should all be proud. I'm proud to own one...period. I do enjoy the ribbing on who's is better but they are all awesome machines!!

Oh, I thought of adding a "protester" bar on the front. Anyone know of which ones will not interfere with winch operation?

[RustyPW]

I put the Carli ball joints in mine. Have 60,000 miles on they and they are still tight. Which ever ball joints you get. DO NOT get ball joints that are splined. You will ruin the hole for the next time.