Power Wagon Registry

https://www.google.com/amp/s/abcnews.go ... l-60857807

Where is this nut? Is it the sector shaft nut? Tie rod ends?

Its the two nuts on eack side of the adjuster sleeve on the drag link.

I pulled this pic off the net and added arrows to the two nuts and adjuster sleeve.

The drag link, I see. Confident that picture is of the offending nut(s)?

Did you read the "fix" for the issue? It involves welding the nuts to the sleeve, not happening on mine unless they get certified welders to do it(not trusting the "authorized techs " who have trouble changing oil to do it right).

rammit11 wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:34 am

Did you read the "fix" for the issue? It involves welding the nuts to the sleeve, not happening on mine unless they get certified welders to do it(not trusting the "authorized techs " who have trouble changing oil to do it right).

Not just that but you no longer will be able to re center wheel if adjusting ride height.

Welding seems excessive!!! Wonder why thread locker can't fix this issue...

Bill2014 wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 14, 2019 9:25 am

Welding seems excessive!!! Wonder why thread locker can't fix this issue...

One of the mechanics on the facebook group indicated that they are replacing the nuts and sleeve and adding blue loctite. With today's media would not be hard to believe they'd confuse welding with tightening new hardware lol.

Why new hardware? Just tighten whats there properly and there will be no issues.

jeesus two loose nuts and everybody on the planet is up in arms scratching their head what to do. what happened to the good old days of rational thinking and practical solutions. this new world is a disgrace

Just speaking to what I was told. I have big adjustable wrenches and big arms so I’ve never had the adjustment loosen on me after I personally adjusted it twice (once after Thuren springs, a second time after Thuren track bar). I did have it loosen after an alignment but i fixed it easy enough.

i wasnt so much speaking to this forum but the loose nut crap is posted all over the web and tons of people are completely stumped on what to do about it. unfrikinbelieable

Well in my 38 years I’ve seen a lot of loose nuts on the web!

NickTF wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:16 am

Well in my 38 years I’ve seen a lot of loose nuts on the web!

#DadJokes

Before the 2018 PWIM trip I had my alignment done at Firestone and low and behold after the first trail I noticed my steering wheel was off center. Turns out the dingbats at Firestone didn't tighten the damn jam nuts in question. Either way, I add that to the list of things I check at each oil change/tire rotation.

I'll be damned if I'm going to take it to the dealer to put a couple drops of blue or red loctite on.

Apparently the problem has to do with the sleeve, not the nuts. The material is to soft or the threads are out of tolerance compared to the shaft. The sleeve is jumping threads on the male threaded shaft, thus appearing as if the nuts loosened. Loctite won't fix that. FCA has determined that tightening the jam nut, then tacking it to the sleeve, will allow the threads in the nuts to carry some of the load and the sleeve won't be able to Jump over threads. The critical question: does FCA plan to replace the welded parts once they have new parts in stock?

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I have an appointment on Monday for a different recall. I inquired about this recall. I was told parts were not available so the recall could not be completed. It sounds like maybe the weld fix is a stop gap for a vehicle that has already exhibited the issue.

Thuren put up a CAD of an interesting improvement solution which would extend the width of the jam nuts and add strength to the drag link. I suppose the threaded area of the drag link can be somewhat of a weak link in rock crawling situations, the extended width jam nuts would reinforce that area so far as I can tell. I'd be surprised of the OEM comes out with anything drastically different than what is already there but lets see. In the mean time, just tighten down hard on the jam nuts and if no thread damage I'd suspect you're ok.

Some recent engineering grad probably has metric threads on one piece matching to SAE on the other side. This allowed saving 49 cents per part also.

My 06 CTD has that same problem. Every time I do a rough off road ride I have to recenter the steering wheel. I figgured it was the threads jumping but happens so infrequently that I just recenter when needed. I don't want to hve to take the front end apart to fix it! But maybe I should, would hate to have it let loose on the road.

verdesardog wrote:My 06 CTD has that same problem. Every time I do a rough off road ride I have to recenter the steering wheel. I figgured it was the threads jumping but happens so infrequently that I just recenter when needed. I don't want to hve to take the front end apart to fix it! But maybe I should, would hate to have it let loose on the road.

Your drag link adjuster is the split tube type, it shouldn’t be jumping threads unless the clamping bolts are loose

They are TIGHT

Maybe once the sleeve moved the first time it smoothed the threads out?

checked the nuts and theyre tight as can be. theyre not pinch nuts but rather regular nuts. for the hell of it i put a couple paint marks for quick inspection in the future

I checked for the recall on my 16 on the owner site. It does say they will weld it. I'm not letting those retards weld on my steering gear, so it's not going in.

Here's the problem I see in welding the nuts. If you have to get an alignment later. Someone is going to grind the weld off, to be able to recenter your steering wheel. Then do they have to reweld the nuts again? What happens if you take it someplace other then a dealer? What happens if the guy put some serious weld on the nuts and sleeve, and grinding won't remove all of the weld because of how deep the weld is?