"Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
"Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
Hello All,
I am new to the forum and in need of some help regarding my 2005 Power Wagon.
Recently, the rear locker light began blinking when not turned to or engaged. I had the truck in to the dealer and they were able to diagnose that the Final Drive Control Module is bad. Often referred to as the "Smart Bar" Sway Bar. Part #52121238AD
The problem is that the part is discontinued. Now I am stuck with a PW that has no locker functionality and an annoying blinking locker light.
I have read several topics on here about a bypass but they all seemed to dead end or the people making them disappeared. Can someone point me in the direction of a fix, bypass or something similar. I obviously am willing to pay what it takes as it is pointless to have a PW without the features of one... I only have 75K on this thing and am quite upset to think Chrysler said sorry, can't be fixed!
Any help would be appreciated.
Lance
I am new to the forum and in need of some help regarding my 2005 Power Wagon.
Recently, the rear locker light began blinking when not turned to or engaged. I had the truck in to the dealer and they were able to diagnose that the Final Drive Control Module is bad. Often referred to as the "Smart Bar" Sway Bar. Part #52121238AD
The problem is that the part is discontinued. Now I am stuck with a PW that has no locker functionality and an annoying blinking locker light.
I have read several topics on here about a bypass but they all seemed to dead end or the people making them disappeared. Can someone point me in the direction of a fix, bypass or something similar. I obviously am willing to pay what it takes as it is pointless to have a PW without the features of one... I only have 75K on this thing and am quite upset to think Chrysler said sorry, can't be fixed!
Any help would be appreciated.
Lance
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
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Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
I’d start googling in search of NOS parts, if you have the part number you may be able to pick one up on eBay or somewhere like that before they all dry up hopefully... good luck!
Edit - I googled that part number you showed and that appears to be for the entire assembly? Maybe focus in on the individual electronics module and see if that shows up somewhere???
Edit - I googled that part number you showed and that appears to be for the entire assembly? Maybe focus in on the individual electronics module and see if that shows up somewhere???
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
Thanks Alaska, I can't find the specific information on the electronics assembly? The only info I have is on the entire part which seems to be a dead end. Very frustrating to say the least. If I at least had the specs on the electronics maybe it could be rebuilt?AlaskaTRX wrote: ↑Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:15 pmI’d start googling in search of NOS parts, if you have the part number you may be able to pick one up on eBay or somewhere like that before they all dry up hopefully... good luck!
Edit - I googled that part number you showed and that appears to be for the entire assembly? Maybe focus in on the individual electronics module and see if that shows up somewhere???
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
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Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
There’s several things that could be wrong instead of the module. I’ve had that happen several times I believe from moisture in the connector and from heat while towing.
Pit Slave might have spare SmartBar stuff.
Search this forum for SmartBar issues and fixes and flashing locker lights
Pit Slave might have spare SmartBar stuff.
Search this forum for SmartBar issues and fixes and flashing locker lights
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
From all the issues folks have had with lockers it is usually never the smart bar. I replaced mine on my 2005 PW and didn't help. Some have had luck with replacing the rear locker. Others have found shorts in the wiring.
I hate to say it but your best option is to bypass the smart bar and direct wire the lockers.
Chances are your lockers still work but the funky ohm metering on the smart bar isn't allowing it to.
Best way to test this is to take the rear diff off and check the actuation of the locker.
You will find even with the LL blinking the locker still engages.
After you confirm that you know it is a signal issue not a locker issue.
The dealership knows nothing about these trucks.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I hate to say it but your best option is to bypass the smart bar and direct wire the lockers.
Chances are your lockers still work but the funky ohm metering on the smart bar isn't allowing it to.
Best way to test this is to take the rear diff off and check the actuation of the locker.
You will find even with the LL blinking the locker still engages.
After you confirm that you know it is a signal issue not a locker issue.
The dealership knows nothing about these trucks.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
2005 Dodge Power Wagon QC Black - "Laramie"
Performance Mods:
Performance Mods:
- Comp 260 Camshaft, Upgraded Valve Springs, Forged Push Rods, JBA Shorties, Airaid Cold Air Intake, Gibson Dual Cat Exhast (Side Swept), National Speed Custom Tune
- Kenwood KVT-719 w/ Garmin Navigation and Kenwood Rear Camera, JL Stealth Sub
- Carli Upper "Bomb Proof" Ball Joints, NAPA Lower Ball Joints, Thuren Adj Track Bar, Thuren Adjusted Fox Damper, T-Style Steering Upgrade, New Power Steering Pump, 2012 Power Steering Motor Upgrade, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Rear Shocks -Stage 1, Thuren Off-set Control Arms, Thuren King 2.5 Custom Front Shocks -Stage 2, 35x12.50x17 Nitto Trail Grappler (previous tires Cooper STT), Carli Front Dif Gard,
- KC LightBar Behind Tow Hooks Mount, 2 KC Slim Driving Lights, 2 KC Offroading Lights, Weatherguard Black Steel Truck Box, Winch TPS bypass, Warn Wireless Winch Module
Re:
Thanks for the reply, the rear locker has been checked and is functioning. The problem seems to be the electronics in the sway bar like you mention not allowing the lockers to work from the switch and thus the blinking light.pdavey wrote: ↑Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:47 pmFrom all the issues folks have had with lockers it is usually never the smart bar. I replaced mine on my 2005 PW and didn't help. Some have had luck with replacing the rear locker. Others have found shorts in the wiring.
I hate to say it but your best option is to bypass the smart bar and direct wire the lockers.
Chances are your lockers still work but the funky ohm metering on the smart bar isn't allowing it to.
Best way to test this is to take the rear diff off and check the actuation of the locker.
You will find even with the LL blinking the locker still engages.
After you confirm that you know it is a signal issue not a locker issue.
The dealership knows nothing about these trucks.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
If I direct wire the lockers can you get the switch light to quit blinking and still use the switch to engage the lockers? I have read a bunch of different threads on this, can someone share a link to the simplest most straight forward method for direct wiring the lockers?
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
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Re: Re:
Yes/No - there is a detailed threader here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1494&start=500&hil ... bar+bypasslancer29 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 09, 2018 1:56 pmThanks for the reply, the rear locker has been checked and is functioning. The problem seems to be the electronics in the sway bar like you mention not allowing the lockers to work from the switch and thus the blinking light.
If I direct wire the lockers can you get the switch light to quit blinking and still use the switch to engage the lockers? I have read a bunch of different threads on this, can someone share a link to the simplest most straight forward method for direct wiring the lockers?
It's complicated.
It's easier to just hardwire front and rear on two switches and unplug the Smart Bar. As in the least amount of time/wiring involved. Take ya 2hrs max. All the lockers need is 12V power and they lock. And you can install a Jeep Rubicon Manual Swaybar disconnect. It's the same controller on the PW and Rubicon.
2015 Power Wagon Laramie - "ROCKLANDER"
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Re: Re:
Thanks again for the reply. What/Where are the best instructions for hard wiring the lockers? Then I will just disconnect the sway bar plug as you mention if that will at least stop the light from blinking. Or maybe just unplug the light connection behind the dash?BoldAdventure wrote: ↑Tue Oct 09, 2018 2:01 pmYes/No - there is a detailed threader here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1494&start=500&hil ... bar+bypasslancer29 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 09, 2018 1:56 pmThanks for the reply, the rear locker has been checked and is functioning. The problem seems to be the electronics in the sway bar like you mention not allowing the lockers to work from the switch and thus the blinking light.
If I direct wire the lockers can you get the switch light to quit blinking and still use the switch to engage the lockers? I have read a bunch of different threads on this, can someone share a link to the simplest most straight forward method for direct wiring the lockers?
It's complicated.
It's easier to just hardwire front and rear on two switches and unplug the Smart Bar. As in the least amount of time/wiring involved. Take ya 2hrs max. All the lockers need is 12V power and they lock. And you can install a Jeep Rubicon Manual Swaybar disconnect. It's the same controller on the PW and Rubicon.
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
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1980 Toyota FJ40
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Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
Not sure if you indicated this already but does the swaybar disconnect actually work, if it does it might just be the locker actuator?
I had the exact same symptoms, see this thread, viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5085 and it was the rear locker actuator.
If it is the smartbar it is most likely the wiring that need to be redone at the connector, pulled out, cleaned up, new metal inserts, reconnected. A shop that specializes in automotive electronics/wiring could probably do it.
I had the exact same symptoms, see this thread, viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5085 and it was the rear locker actuator.
If it is the smartbar it is most likely the wiring that need to be redone at the connector, pulled out, cleaned up, new metal inserts, reconnected. A shop that specializes in automotive electronics/wiring could probably do it.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
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Re: Re:
You wanted simple and straight forward, this works but isn't ideal. Using relays would be better.
I copied this off of Dodge Talk for you, Here's the link, but you won't be able to see the pictures unless you log in as a member, so I decided to just copy the whole post for you here. (I hope I'm not breaking any copyright laws. ) https://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showth ... 2&posted=1
He said that he used 12 Ga. wire, but the factory wire is only 16 Ga. and I'm sure would be fine.
Posted by Chip_Rat on 1/22/13
My Hard wire details
Pic 1
Here is the wire coding for the front and back lockers you will only need two wires per locker, all are Yellow/** with a colored stripe on them. Source is HOT, Return is Ground.
I used Quick connects (supplies pic) to splice in my wires, that way I did not have to cut them, and I could remove for warranty issues. (I do not have a warranty any more). If you are new to Quick Connects, there are different sizes, get the ones for your wire.
I used 12 ga. Wire and connect. One of the sides to the quick connect goes all the way thru, the other one goes half way. The one that goes all the way thru should be on your locker wire. I used the below switches for I had two in the tool box, you can use what you want, but I wanted a Light switch, to know I have them on. note: these switches will not tell you when you are engaged, only that power is going to the locker. But..you will know. when they are locked. Refrain from locking on dry concrete or asphalt, you lockers can take it but your tires may not.
Pic List
Supplies:
Elect tape
Shrink wrap
Fuse conection
Switches ( you wish)
Splicers, connectors
Wire Black, and Red
Pic 2
Your Rear locker wires are right below the floor board on the driver side. I just opened up the wire cluster and pulled out the two I needed.
Pic 3
Your Front locker wires can be found just under your Brake Master cylinder.
I ran a Power wire from my Battery (I would suggest that you run it from a Key On Fuse in your Fuse box.) Just in case you leave the locker switch on…
I ran the power wire to the switches (install the 30 amp fuse between the switches and the Power source (in an easy place to get to incase it blows). My switch had three connections
Power - +
ACC - Locker wire
Ground – to make the light work
Splice into your Front and rear locker wires and run the Red (Power) and Black (grd) up into your cab with plenty of room (extra wire).
Depending on where you want to mount your switch, you will need to remove some dash components. There is a Youtube on dash removal on 2006 dodge trucks, it is a good video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQVwArVWcHE
I drilled two holes to mount my switches. I ran both Black wires from the lockers to a ground bolt just under my transfer case shifter. I ran the Power wire (Red) to the inline fuse and the split it so I could hook it to both switches. Then I ran a Ground wire from each switch (for lights) to a another ground Bolt in the same area.
If you have issues, just PM Me and we can talk in more detail. I am no elect pro, but took my time and figured it out.
I am still working on the Original switch, I am sure that it goes straight to the Dumb Bar, so I will have to do some more investigating. The Switch is easy to get to once to take the dash apart. I have some pics I will share later.
Attached Thumbnails.
And here is another simple diagram I've saved that someone else made.
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
Great information, thank you for sharing!
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
I also wanted to share that I had a good conversation with Jacob at Kinnettic Kreations (https://www.kinnettickreations.com/) yesterday about these issues and the locker bypass. He has been working on a plug and play system for a while and was about dialed in for a model year 2017 PW.
We are going to touch base in a few weeks and I am going to bring him my 2005 so he can do some testing. I will keep everyone posted.
We are going to touch base in a few weeks and I am going to bring him my 2005 so he can do some testing. I will keep everyone posted.
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
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1980 Toyota FJ40
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Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
I forgot, I'll share this post here, this is the video I have on Instagram about how to hardwire your lockers, it's a bit long-winded, but it's all there.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LBMWm9Sgvxvmsz7G8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LBMWm9Sgvxvmsz7G8
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Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
Thanks for sharing, great video which is straightforward and easy to follow. I will be doing this if things do not pan out with the Kinnettic Kreations system. Thanks again.BoldAdventure wrote: ↑Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:19 amI forgot, I'll share this post here, this is the video I have on Instagram about how to hardwire your lockers, it's a bit long-winded, but it's all there.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LBMWm9Sgvxvmsz7G8
Lance
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
I have a complete 05 smart bar in the garage. Bought one the last new ones available a couple of years hoping to fix the serv 4wd light that wouldn't let anything work on my truck.
Well I installed the new bar with no luck in helping any of my problems. Turned out it was my locker bypass. Put that back to stock and everything works again. So my old smart bar was not the problem and it and should be functional.
Well I installed the new bar with no luck in helping any of my problems. Turned out it was my locker bypass. Put that back to stock and everything works again. So my old smart bar was not the problem and it and should be functional.
Re: "Smart" Sway Bar, discontinued part. Help please!
I sent you an email.shayzj wrote: ↑Sun Oct 14, 2018 2:58 pmI have a complete 05 smart bar in the garage. Bought one the last new ones available a couple of years hoping to fix the serv 4wd light that wouldn't let anything work on my truck.
Well I installed the new bar with no luck in helping any of my problems. Turned out it was my locker bypass. Put that back to stock and everything works again. So my old smart bar was not the problem and it and should be functional.
2005 Dodge Power Wagon
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40
1977 Ford Bronco
1980 Toyota FJ40