Battery question
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Battery question
Cold weather folks...
My original battery in my 15 is getting noticeably weaker. What battery do y’all recommend for northern winters?
My original battery in my 15 is getting noticeably weaker. What battery do y’all recommend for northern winters?
2015 Power Wagon
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Re: Battery question
I just replaced mine on my 15. Not sure if it will work out well but I got this Continental AGM battery at my local distributer: https://www.continentalbattery.com/products/485
It's numbers were really good and the price ($175) was excellent compared to similar AGM batteries.
Something I noticed that may effect your decision is that there is an easily removed spacer clip at the back of the battery. If removed you could put in a battery that is much longer than the 94R series. From what it looks like you could put in a 49 series battery which typically have much better CCA and reserve capacity. Here is the AGM 49 series from Continental: https://www.continentalbattery.com/products/487
It appears that the terminals are in the right place. I do not know for sure this will work but may be worth looking into. I would have done it myself but with the battery "blanket" cover I couldn't see that clip that helps our box fit the 94R series.
It's numbers were really good and the price ($175) was excellent compared to similar AGM batteries.
Something I noticed that may effect your decision is that there is an easily removed spacer clip at the back of the battery. If removed you could put in a battery that is much longer than the 94R series. From what it looks like you could put in a 49 series battery which typically have much better CCA and reserve capacity. Here is the AGM 49 series from Continental: https://www.continentalbattery.com/products/487
It appears that the terminals are in the right place. I do not know for sure this will work but may be worth looking into. I would have done it myself but with the battery "blanket" cover I couldn't see that clip that helps our box fit the 94R series.
2015 Tradesman. 35" Nitto Ridge Grapplers, White Knuckle Sliders/Steps, Abel Components Nanny Delete, Locker Bypass, Swaybar Bypass, Dethloff Skid Plate, Snug Top Rebel Topper, Decked Bed Storage, front and rear Thuren Trackbars, Fox ATS-Steering Stabilizer, Thuren .5 inch coils, Fox 2.0 shocks front and rear
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Re: Battery question
Part of the answer is to install the largest and heaviest battery that will physically fit the truck, even if you have to change the hold-downs. Weight means lead and lead is good. Generally, you will want an AGM, but flooded lead acid (FLA) will probably last longer while producing less power at lower cost. It's a series of tradeoffs. Avoid lithium for northern winters because the current generation does not like to be charged at low temps. Read the specs on what's available to you. I like Northstar, but there are lots of others. FullThrottle batteries by FullRiver are definitely worth looking at. I just bought batteries for my PW and I ordered V-Max, mostly because they also offer true deep cycle batteries that fit my truck, even though my starting battery is a dual purpose. In Group 31, V-max dual purpose (starting and deep cycle) have slightly better capacity than most of the other brands in that size. I don't know yet how mine will hold up but they have a good rep.
Re: Battery question
Has anyone tried to or is running dual Optima Blue top batteries, positioned sideways, in stock location ? Just curious. I have seen them in Jeeps 4Runners & FJ Cruisers.
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Re: Battery question
I have a pair of Optima Blue dual purpose (same as the Yellows but with extra studs) as my house batteries in the PW. They are three years old this month and they are done. Won't hold a charge for more than a day. The pair of Yellows in my old GMC have been in there for 5 or 6 years and are doing just fine. Same chemistry, same construction (except for the extra studs), but totally different results.Has anyone tried to or is running dual Optima Blue top batteries, positioned sideways, in stock location ? Just curious. I have seen them in Jeeps 4Runners & FJ Cruisers.
Before I installed my first G31 Odyssey in the PW I looked into mounting a pair of 34s side by side in the stock location. Just couldn't make it work on my '05. Three new batteries going into the PW this weekend and none of them are Odyssey or Optima.
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Re: Battery question
I'd love to see this two. Might have to talk with DamageWagon.
2015 Power Wagon Laramie - "ROCKLANDER"
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- DamageWagon
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Re: Battery question
I have more and more come to really love a high quality single battery setup. From my experience, dual battery setups have the disadvantage that when one battery dies it kills the other one too. A really nice, big capacity AGM would be ideal for most users. Lead acid has minor perks in limited settings but if you drive a lot of gravel, washboard, or high speed, I’d stick with AGM to have a better internal construction more resilient to fatigue.
Optima batteries are total garbage, I’ve had three Yellowtops die in the last 2 years. One bulged, one wouldn’t hold charge, one was audibly boiling. There’s much better options than Optima.
Optima batteries are total garbage, I’ve had three Yellowtops die in the last 2 years. One bulged, one wouldn’t hold charge, one was audibly boiling. There’s much better options than Optima.
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Re: Battery question
Does not happen if they are properly isolated. Mine are always isolated when the truck is off, unless I set the switch to combine them. I only combine them when off if I want to charge all three simultaneously on shore power. When the truck is running, I can choose isolated or combined.From my experience, dual battery setups have the disadvantage that when one battery dies it kills the other one too.
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Re: Battery question
How do you isolate them?Ducky's Dad wrote: ↑Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:09 pmDoes not happen if they are properly isolated. Mine are always isolated when the truck is off, unless I set the switch to combine them. I only combine them when off if I want to charge all three simultaneously on shore power. When the truck is running, I can choose isolated or combined.
2018 White Rambox, Diamondback HD bed cover, White Knuckle sliders, Carli and Purple Cranium diff guards, masterpull 11mm superline, 37 Toyo MT.
- Reloaderguy
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Re: Battery question
My charge relay isolates and charges my dual batteries automatically.Ducky's Dad wrote: ↑Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:09 pmDoes not happen if they are properly isolated. Mine are always isolated when the truck is off, unless I set the switch to combine them. I only combine them when off if I want to charge all three simultaneously on shore power. When the truck is running, I can choose isolated or combined.From my experience, dual battery setups have the disadvantage that when one battery dies it kills the other one too.
- DamageWagon
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Re: Battery question
In theory you’re correct. My personal experience having two isolated batteries fry each other disproved that for me. If your batteries are isolated, they still connect when charging, which is the entire time you’re driving. If you have a manual switch and leave them disconnected and only connect them under heavy load or cold starting, thats a different story but you still have to connect them occasionally to charge the secondary.
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Re: Battery question
I use a Painless Performance solenoid isolator, controlled from a dash toggle, and a separate Blue Seas Systems rotary switch for my three batteries. That combination allows me to isolate or combine any variation of the three batteries into starting, charging, winching, running the fridge, etc. I just added a 350amp kill switch for the starting battery so that I can disconnect it from the ECU when the truck is parked for long periods. With the starting battery killed, I can still start and drive the truck with the house batteries if I set the rest of the switches correctly. Would take a thief a while to figure out the switch combination.If your batteries are isolated, they still connect when charging, which is the entire time you’re driving.
- Reloaderguy
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Re: Battery question
The charge relay regulates charging, it doesn't just connect the bank together. I don't know what to say about your battery failures other than something wasn't right with your set up; bad alternator, bad batteries, bad charge relay, or bad wiring. But what you describe, isn't how the ACR works.DamageWagon wrote: ↑Sat Aug 25, 2018 2:15 amIn theory you’re correct. My personal experience having two isolated batteries fry each other disproved that for me. If your batteries are isolated, they still connect when charging, which is the entire time you’re driving. If you have a manual switch and leave them disconnected and only connect them under heavy load or cold starting, thats a different story but you still have to connect them occasionally to charge the secondary.
Re: Battery question
I will second the use of bluesea systems automatic charging relay for isolated dual battery systems.
Central Texas and Houston area
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
Custom tube bumpers and white knuckle sliders
Creative fab trussed axle. rem polished and cryoed 5.13 gears with arb lockers fr/rr
Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
Lots of other stuff lol
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
Custom tube bumpers and white knuckle sliders
Creative fab trussed axle. rem polished and cryoed 5.13 gears with arb lockers fr/rr
Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
Lots of other stuff lol
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Re: Battery question
That is the system I used when both batteries fried. When charging they are both connected. A single good battery has almost all the same positives with almost none of the downsides, particularly cost.
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Re: Battery question
A single good battery can't run a fridge in the desert without solar, and solar costs about the same as a basic dual battery system. Solar does not give you any redundancy or backup for winching. When I did my dual battery system, I thought I'd be good for a long time, but then I got the fridge. Realized then I needed either a really big second battery or a third battery. Now that I have had three batteries for the last few years, I realize I need solar and have all the parts but no time yet to install. It just never ends.A single good battery has almost all the same positives with almost none of the downsides, particularly cost.
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Re: Battery question
We lived out of the truck for 10 weeks with a fridge and used the winch many times to move trees off trails. Single battery. Never needed redundancy, more capacity, or solar. The complexity of a dual battery system is a serious thing to consider.
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Re: Battery question
But not in conditions like this:We lived out of the truck for 10 weeks with a fridge
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Re: Battery question
That would deep fry my butt.Ducky's Dad wrote: ↑Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:52 pmBut not in conditions like this:We lived out of the truck for 10 weeks with a fridge
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2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
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NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
Re: Battery question
This is what I have: 120 watt foldable solar panel on a frame that fits on my Trac Rac rack.
The frame breaks down and is stored in a length of 3' ABS pipe on the rack. The controller is removable and stored in a duffle with the cables and stuff.
Very low profile, wind proof, and helps keep the ARB fridge in the shade.
The frame breaks down and is stored in a length of 3' ABS pipe on the rack. The controller is removable and stored in a duffle with the cables and stuff.
Very low profile, wind proof, and helps keep the ARB fridge in the shade.
Preview
2005 white Q.C. Power Wagon #1716
AEM Brute Force intake
Gibson CAT back exhaust
Super Chips Flashpac Tuner
Wet Okole seat covers
35" Nitto Trail Grappler Tires
Line-X bed coating
Trac Rac Sliding Lumber Rack
Dual Batteries w/ Hellroaring Technologies Isolator/Combiner
Extreme Outback Magnum on board air compressor
H2 rims
2005 white Q.C. Power Wagon #1716
AEM Brute Force intake
Gibson CAT back exhaust
Super Chips Flashpac Tuner
Wet Okole seat covers
35" Nitto Trail Grappler Tires
Line-X bed coating
Trac Rac Sliding Lumber Rack
Dual Batteries w/ Hellroaring Technologies Isolator/Combiner
Extreme Outback Magnum on board air compressor
H2 rims
Re: Battery question
Here is my experience: I have a Sears Die Hard Platinum Marine (the big ass one). It has been hooked to my underhood battery since new in 2008. Battery was also used for 2 years previous in my old 2004 Ram 2500. It is not isolated, it is hooked directly with 2/0 gauge welding cable with soldered on lugs. I have had no issues. Truck is on it's second underhood battery, yet still the same 2nd battery, hooked directly to the underhood battery.
Problem with AGM or gel cell batteries are that our charging systems do not, will not keep them at or above 13.6 volts. My truck also has a 270 amp alt that puts out 199 amps at idle. It charges at up to 14.6v while driving but when stopped & i check with a volt meter, it is 12.5-.8v . So, while battery technology has certainly gotten better, new vehicles simply can not keep them charged properly.
I think the way i run my system is the best & cheapest way to go. Underhood battery is the weak one, so it will go first & I can live with that. My winch works SO MUCH better with 2 batteries. No solenoids to fail, no switches to fail. Simple, easy peasy. I do have a 350 amp Anderson Power Pole quick disconnect on it with a handle. Just yank it & you are back to just the underhood battery.
This may not be the best way to go for anyone else, but it has worked for me thus far, like a champ. I also have a 2000/4000 watt HF inverter in the back of my truck. It also works SO MUCH better with 2 batteries.
We had 2 solar panels & a charge controller on our last camper. Controller failed, resulting in both batteries being overcharged & boiling the water out of them, even though i topped them off before winter storage. Both batteries were destroyed as a result, which is where i lost my trust in anything automatic with switches or sensors. KISS is an acronym for Keep it simple stupid, that we learned in the Army. More often than not, it seems to be the way to go.
Problem with AGM or gel cell batteries are that our charging systems do not, will not keep them at or above 13.6 volts. My truck also has a 270 amp alt that puts out 199 amps at idle. It charges at up to 14.6v while driving but when stopped & i check with a volt meter, it is 12.5-.8v . So, while battery technology has certainly gotten better, new vehicles simply can not keep them charged properly.
I think the way i run my system is the best & cheapest way to go. Underhood battery is the weak one, so it will go first & I can live with that. My winch works SO MUCH better with 2 batteries. No solenoids to fail, no switches to fail. Simple, easy peasy. I do have a 350 amp Anderson Power Pole quick disconnect on it with a handle. Just yank it & you are back to just the underhood battery.
This may not be the best way to go for anyone else, but it has worked for me thus far, like a champ. I also have a 2000/4000 watt HF inverter in the back of my truck. It also works SO MUCH better with 2 batteries.
We had 2 solar panels & a charge controller on our last camper. Controller failed, resulting in both batteries being overcharged & boiling the water out of them, even though i topped them off before winter storage. Both batteries were destroyed as a result, which is where i lost my trust in anything automatic with switches or sensors. KISS is an acronym for Keep it simple stupid, that we learned in the Army. More often than not, it seems to be the way to go.