Champion Plugs......

[MOPARManiac]

What Champion spark plugs are you guys using in the 4th Gen Power Wagons. I purchased some last week and the parts store gave me RE12MCC4. I was digging through some stuff tonight and found the old stock plugs that came in the wifes 08 Durango with the Hemi. The stock plugs were Champion RE14MCC4.

Which ones are correct, or will they both work?

[Throttle 8]

What I would do if I was you, is take one out of your truck; and replace it with the same as it came with. Hemi's do just fine with oem plugs!! I have had negative first hand experience (as well as many others!) trying to *upgrade*.

[MOPARManiac]

The stock plugs are NGK's LZFR5C-11, and it looks like the Champions RE12MCC4 are the correct ones. The Champions are the same style copper core plug and are half the price of the NGK's so I will be using the Champions. It looks like it will be a PITA to change them.

Apparently the difference between the RE12MCC4's and RE14MCC4's are the 14's are tapered and the 12's use a crush washer. Dodge changed to the crush washer 09' up Hemi's. I upgraded to the Champion Iridium plugs when I changed them in the 08 Durango at 30,000 miles, so far they seem to be working well.

[Throttle 8]

It took me about 2.5 hrs total time. (That was including a 15 minute beer break betwwen sides!)
You will need a 5" extension and a swivel. Do not forget the anti seize for the threads, and a littledi-electric grease inside the boot.

[MOPARManiac]

Thanks for the info, I have the anti-sieze and grease. I am wondering if I put the PW up on jackstands, take the tires and plastic wheel wells off if it will be easier?...... I may try that.

[TwinStick]

Yes, it will for the drivers side, at least on my 3rd Gen.

[azracer]

I picked the NGK double platinum that was on sale from Rock Auto ($2.29 ea) and they work just fine. I wanted less performance degradation over the 30,000 mile planned use. I won't run them much past the 30K because the carbon deposits on the exposed threads in the combustion chamber can literally rip the threads out of the head when you remove the plugs. More of a problem on Fords but we also have that similar issue.

This thread issue is the real reason the OEM plugs are copper and not platinum, after all if you only can run them for 30K... why pop for a 100K plug in the first place? Just stay away from those gimmicky plugs like split fire and such.

Here is a video on the proper way to remove the plugs especially if you run them longer than 30K. This is because there are quite a few exposed spark plug threads in the combustion chamber on our Hemi engines (4 or 5 if I recall).

phpBB [video]

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The Ford 3 valve 5.4L
Glad I don't have a Ford!!!

phpBB [video]

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[RustyPW]

ferd better idea........yeah.....right!.......LOSER!

[fbenross]

I just hit 30,000 mi and after changing my PS pump and pulley I'm on a maintenance roll ! So I'm thinkin about changing my plugs. I looked at the video that azracer posted about getting the old plugs out. And I would not do that, except as a last resort. Even if I had 75k mi. I just couldn't pull all the wires....then...crack 16 plugs 1/8 turn ...then put all the wires back on ...then take all the wires back off. There is more than one way to skin a cat(sorry PITA). That video should be an ensentive to change your plugs sooner rather than later...

[Throttle 8]

I changed mine at 27,000 miles and they had no carbon issue at all. You should be fine Ben.

[azracer]

That video should be an ensentive to change your plugs sooner rather than later...

Exactly my point!

I did not do it as shown in the video either but I did do them at 30K and had no issues.

I doubt the dealer or anyone else on flat rate would do it that way either. You will get a call about the additional cost to repair the head.
But it would be good information to know if you are at 100k and are thinking it may be time to change the plugs for the first time.

Do it at 30 or at the most 40K and you won't have an issue. Yes do it even with a 100K plug in there.

[AceMan]

I picked the NGK double platinum that was on sale from Rock Auto ($2.29 ea) and they work just fine. I wanted less performance degradation over the 30,000 mile planned use. I won't run them much past the 30K because the carbon deposits on the exposed threads in the combustion chamber can literally rip the threads out of the head when you remove the plugs. More of a problem on Fords but we also have that similar issue.

This thread issue is the real reason the OEM plugs are copper and not platinum, after all if you only can run them for 30K... why pop for a 100K plug in the first place? Just stay away from those gimmicky plugs like split fire and such.

Here is a video on the proper way to remove the plugs especially if you run them longer than 30K. This is because there are quite a few exposed spark plug threads in the combustion chamber on our Hemi engines (4 or 5 if I recall).

phpBB [video]

Clickable link for Tapatalk

The Ford 3 valve 5.4L
Glad I don't have a Ford!!!

phpBB [video]

Clickable link for Tapatalk

I couldn't see the link to the video in Tapatalk, so I'm just copying and re-pasting it in my reply.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yKIDxSnsTk
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Xparent SkyBlue Tapatalk 2

[AceMan]

Just to add, I had my plugs changed just last week with the stock Champs. I now have about 60k. Made a world of difference with performance changing them.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Xparent SkyBlue Tapatalk 2

[GunniPWguy]

So is this method of plug removal really necessary?

[FirerescuePW]

It says the tool is for broken plugs. I guess that is common in Fords?

[MSparks909]

It was common in the 04-07 Ford 5.4L Triton V8's. I know because I owned an 05 F150 w/ the 5.4 before this truck. I had my plugs changed around 45K miles and luckily they did not break off. Ford specs them as "100K mile plugs" but when you wait that long usually 2-4 break off and get stuck in the cylinder head. Crappy design, but Ford updated to a 1 piece spark plug that eliminated the breakage in the 07-10 run of the 5.4L. Man that engine was a dog too...reliable but slow and underpowered (at least to my taste). Never had any reliability problems, but the Hemi is much more powerful.

[MOPARManiac]

I changed my plugs this morning and it wasn't too bad of a job to do. It took about 3 hours with some cigar breaks mixed in. I do recommend having two 2 inch 3/8 extensions. Those work very well for the back 5 plugs on the left (drivers side). There isn't enough room with the brake booster so being able to use the two shorter extensions to make a longer extension worked very well. The right (passenger) side was fairly easy, the air box comes out very easy and gives a lot of room. I left the air box out when I did the drivers side. For the back 4 plugs on the drivers side I crawled up into the engine compartment on the passenger side, there is room to stand on the top, front of the frame. I then just leaned over the engine and that made the back plugs much easier to get out. I'm 6'3" so that tells you there is plenty of room, though I was wishing I was a little shorter at the time. Good for another few years, now I need to do the wifes Durango. It is a PITA compared to the PW.

[AceMan]

Did you also clean out the plenum?

I just had my plugs done by a friend who's a dealer tech. Took him about a half hour. I pre-gapped the plugs for him as he was doing them. I was barely able to keep up with him.

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[MOPARManiac]

Yes, I cleaned out all of the air intake. I also put in a new K&N air filter. Between the plugs and new air filter it is purring like a kitten.

I'm sure that someone that does it all the time can go very fast. I am too anal, and make sure that everything is done correctly. That takes up more time than anything else. It was easier than I thought it would be, I won't be dreading it in another 30,000 miles. A few of the factory plugs were in pretty tight. I put anti-sieze on all of the new ones.

[AceMan]

The anti-seize is a good idea. He did the same when putting them in.

I used to work on my own vehicles many years ago. If I attempted this, it would have probably taken me longer than it took you. In many cases I can do a quick repair enough to get me to a place to get it done right, but that's the extent of its.

I agree with what you're saying. It's easy for someone that does it day to day.

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[awdanthony]

Spark plugs look a lot more daunting on the 4G than some of the other vehicles I've worked on. I thought I was going to need to remove the brake booster, but the rubber boots on the coils bend easily. Other than that, a host of extensions, a good swivel, and a magnet on a stick work great.

[Will]

Shit, I change mine every 60K miles. At 30k I pulled one and it was fine and then again at 50k and then drove it until it started to have a rough idle which was 72k. They all came out fine. I figured 60k would be a good time to keep them in good shape. Fairly easy to change but didn't see the need for every 30k.

[coder]

I do my plugs every 30k, the plugs are cheap it helps with gas mileage and it keeps the truck running good. Not sure about a 4Gen but on a 3Gen it is useful if you remove the tire and wheel well liner so you can get at the back plugs from underneath.

[awdanthony]

I ended up lying over the engine a few times to get to the driver's side closest to the bulkhead.

[Will]

This isn't a bad deal, $3.91 each shipped. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LME ... sc=1&smid=

Going to get me these for the next round.