Power Wagon Registry

So i finally purchased a Thuren Track bar, hoping to get it installed soon. Looking for any tips and tricks before install. Also, what length is everyone using for stock rigs? I assume 39" but just want to make sure. Hopefully getting this installed will end my death wobble problems. Fingers crossed...

They come pre-set to the correct length, should be 39-1/8” eye to eye for 03-13 trucks. Yank the old bar and put the new one with starting with the axle side heim. Use a ratchet strap on the frame and on the axle to help pull the truck whichever way it needs to go and then put the bushing side bolt through. Might be tight getting the bar into the bracket, don’t hurt the grease zerk if you need to nudge it into place.

Usually need to put some mileage on it before it breaks in and really takes grease, might need 500-1000 miles

39 1/8

Remove the old bar. Bolt in the new bar at the axle, raise the frame side and insert the bolt while someone turns the steering wheel. If you don't have a second person, put the truck on jack stands and pull/push the tie rod while you put in the bolt.

If you do the instal without jacking up the truck then the drag link will be in the way of the passenger side track bar bolt, at least that was the issue I ran into with mine. Had to dig out a shallow socket with an extension to make it work, the deep socket would not fit in between the drag link and tie rod. Also my bar was not preset, i had to measure and use a big crescent wrench to torque the jam nut. Having some help is advisable as the bar is awkward to handle by yourself.

After reading through the instructions it sounded like I would need to set the length and then tighten the heim joint jam nut to 200ft/lbs. Is that not the case?

2011TXPowerWagon wrote: ↑

Tue May 22, 2018 5:56 pm

After reading through the instructions it sounded like I would need to set the length and then tighten the heim joint jam nut to 200ft/lbs. Is that not the case?

I would assume that is the case, if that is what the directions state.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Tue May 22, 2018 6:55 pm

2011TXPowerWagon wrote: ↑

Tue May 22, 2018 5:56 pm

After reading through the instructions it sounded like I would need to set the length and then tighten the heim joint jam nut to 200ft/lbs. Is that not the case?

I would assume that is the case, if that is what the directions state.

I just want to be sure, you know what happens when you "assume"...

I don't think you can tighten the jam nut to 200lbft and then set the length. The instructions are probably correct.

I just installed one last month, I greased the treads on the heim, threaded the jam nut onto the heim, threaded the heim into the bar, measured to set length, put red thread locker where the heim met the bar then threaded the jam nut down against the bar. Set the bar in a vice, used one crescent to hold the head of the heim and the big Crescent to tighten the jam nut as tight as me and my buddy could get it. Be sure to try and keep the heim from turning while tightening. Then we installed it on the truck, I installed 2” springs at the same time so it took some work to get the axle centered. The axle side mounting hole is hard to get to with the truck sitting on the ground with the axle compressed, if you droop the axle it may be easier. The nut on the back side for the axle side track bar bracket is tricky to get held in place correctly by yourself, so having a helper is nice.

If you’re doing it alone and don’t have an extra set of hands to hold the heim, it’s pretty easy to orient the body of the heim a few degrees from vertical when the jam nut is snug, and it will right itself once you crank down on it. It’s best to get a feel for it once or twice before the red thread locker is applied.

Found some slop in the joints at each arrow, I assume that's bad. Not sure what the bar is called, but I'm able rotate it up and back about an inch. Have not installed the track bar yet, wanted to see what everyone suggests.

That is the drag link. What do you mean you can rotate it up and back an inch? Because it has spherical bearing sboth end you should be able to rotate that bar by hand about the joints. But if you have someone steer the truck, engine running, while you watch, if the joints ‘pop’ up and down then they’re worn

Yea, it will twist but didn't hear any popping.

You're fine there. Don't bother replacing it until you can see slop in them.

Track bar came in and damn this thing feels like a quality piece of kit. Hoping to install before the weekend. Should I put the truck up on ramos or use a two post lift? Is it easier with the axle compressed or full droop? Also, directions mention greasing the hiem joint threads, I noticed there is a slim coat of oil on them, is that sufficient? Also, directions don't mention anything about shit I seize, do they require any?

Do install on the ground. No jacks, no stands. Just unbolt the old one and put the new one in! Use a ratchet strap to pull the truck one way or the other to line up the bolt hole.

I’ve never heard of greasing the heim threads, only greasing the bushing through its zerk. That said be SURE to torque that heim jam nut to the torque spec and then check it after driving a few days.

DamageWagon wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:48 pm

... That said be SURE to torque that heim jam nut to the torque spec and then check it after driving a few days.

Is there even a way to actually torque those?

For the average guy, there’s no practical way to actually torque that to spec. But, it’s damn near impossible to over torque it, so go to town with a 2 foot crescent wrench or whatever behemoth you’ve got on hand, and give it your all lol. And yes, do as Marcus says and check it in a few days/few hundred miles.

Grease the threads=antisieze on the rod end threads

Use red loctite on the jam nut!

Is it really that hard to buy a $15 crow's foot on Amazon to go on the end of your torque wrench?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 06, 2018 6:30 pm

Is it really that hard to buy a $15 crow's foot on Amazon to go on the end of your torque wrench?

Not if you have a torque wrench that reads 200+ ftlbs already and a bench vice to hold the bar in place. Most guys probably don’t though.

And if you’re using a crows foot on a torque wrench use it at 90* to the wrench to get the most accurate reading

Slide the frame side of the track bar in the receiver hitch so you don't need a vice. HF has disposable torque wrenches for like $30. You don't even need the ratchet straps that DM mentioned, just leave the tires on the ground and turn the steering wheel until the bolt holes line up.

There really isn't a good excuse for half-assing the trackbar despite how often that happens.

What the heck am I supposed to use to get the axle side bolt off? My socket and wrench won't fit.
Also, apologies for the typos on previous post.

This is a teachable moment. Drive down to HF and buy a full set of metric and standard deepwell impacts up to 30mm and 1.5". You should have them anyways and feel bad if you don't. Buy a 3' breaker bar and 250lb torque wrench while you're there. The torque wrench will be good enough for suspension components.

Lol thanks for making it seem like such a duh moment. It's been a long hot day, that thought never entered my mind. A little confused about the deep well? Will they extend out past the steering components?

Shallow socket and an extension should work. A deep socket may not fit between the tie rod and drag link