Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Rear locker working again......replaced!!
This topic is a combination of several others . Hope it helps anyone in L.A. area.
Rear locker hasn't worked for a few years (?) Tried all the usual things. Wiring , clean connectors, position sensor, code reader, grounds, dealer diagnostic. I figured rear actuator was bad but dealer wants $2500 to replace. Truck is 2005 and very stock. Fellow poster CODER bought part on internet and had local SoCal shop replace it . $345 part and $250 labor. And his works!!
I ordered part # 05175302 AB from Mopar Parts Source in N.Y. $345.
Used J & S Gear in Huntington Beach for the install. (Same as Coder). 2.5 hours labor and about $50 for fluid. Phone (714) 841-4545. John is owner. It works now!
No need to drive around with Serv4WD light on . And stay away from the dealer!
Note: I have old actuator and want to do autopsy on it. (Retired BLM rig ?)
Rear locker hasn't worked for a few years (?) Tried all the usual things. Wiring , clean connectors, position sensor, code reader, grounds, dealer diagnostic. I figured rear actuator was bad but dealer wants $2500 to replace. Truck is 2005 and very stock. Fellow poster CODER bought part on internet and had local SoCal shop replace it . $345 part and $250 labor. And his works!!
I ordered part # 05175302 AB from Mopar Parts Source in N.Y. $345.
Used J & S Gear in Huntington Beach for the install. (Same as Coder). 2.5 hours labor and about $50 for fluid. Phone (714) 841-4545. John is owner. It works now!
No need to drive around with Serv4WD light on . And stay away from the dealer!
Note: I have old actuator and want to do autopsy on it. (Retired BLM rig ?)
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Good to hear that it's working again. Yeah, we need to know what is happening with the old locker.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
It would be interesting to compare the sensor and actuator resistance numbers between the new one and the old one. You might have to use a hairdryer to warm it up and cause it to fail on the bench. Maybe use a small magnet on the sensor and see how it changes the reading as well.
I'm so glad to hear that you're driving a true 4X4 again
I'm so glad to hear that you're driving a true 4X4 again
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
For $2,500 you could replace the whole axle! That's a crazy price, how is this justified...? Well done Sir's!
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Hello flattire, that's great glad everything came together! We should do a local desert/mountain trip to test everything out....
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
So I'm the recipient of Flattire's old locker actuator and I finally had some time to do some testing. I wanted to document my findings here in the hopes that someone else dealing with a flashing locker light in the future would have a baseline of information to deal with that might help lead to a more accurate diagnosis. The odd thing is, that in the process of testing, my own rear locker light started flashing and setting a code in the final drive control module (FDCM). I was beginning to suspect that the problem was contagious and that my truck had contracted the disease.
Keep in mind that Flattire's truck is an 2005, which is a pre-CAN computer system, so there is no way to read FDCM data on his truck with a scanner. This makes the situation much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing electronic problems, you have to resort to back probing harnesses with a multimeter to get data and once you have that data there's a drought of information to help you figure out what it means.
I started by doing simple bench tests to check for continuity and resistance.
On both the old actuator and the good one that I tested on my truck, the results were the same: When I tested resistance on pins #1 & 4 they both read 1.7 -1.9 ohms. When I applied 12V power and ground to pins #1 & 4 the electro magnet energized and created a magnetic field. Testing the sensor wires (pins #2 & 3) is where it gets weird. On both of them the resistance was 6+ mega ohms and had no significant change when the locker was engaged or disengaged. Pin #2 is a 5V reference voltage from the FDCM/SmartBar into the sensor and pin #3 is the modified voltage returning to the SmartBar based on sensor input. When I measured voltage on pin #3, it was 0.6V when unlocked and 1.4V when locked. The only thing that I didn't do was to apply heat to the old actuator to see if it caused any changes to the readings. However I can tell you that when the electro magnet is energized, after 5+ minutes, it gets almost too warm to touch (130-140º). The way that I tested the "lock/unlock" ability of the old actuator was to plug it into my truck and apply a neodymium magnet to the sensor and read the results on my scanner. Also, the sensor is polarity sensitive to the magnet. Apply the magnet one way and nothing happens, flip the magnet over to the other pole and then you get results.
Now on to my flashing locker light which developed during the course of testing: The rear locker light would be off after initial startup, but after driving a few miles it would start flashing and then sometimes go off again. If I tried to engage the locker when it was flashing, nothing would happen, but if the light was off, I could engage the locker, but sometimes it would disengage and start flashing. However, last weekend I went wheeling with no flashing light for hours of on and off road driving.
This weekend I hooked up my scanner because it was flashing regularly and this is what I found:
I was able to read data while I was driving and as I would go around corners and hit bumps the data would change from "unlocked" to "short to ground" and back again. When I got back to my house there was a code stored and the light was still flashing. I left the engine running and put my scanner under the truck so I could see it. As I wiggled the harness and connector I could change the data so I knew it was a bad connection somewhere. When I unplugged the connector the data continued to read "short to ground". The factory service manual told me to put a jumper wire between pin #2 & 3, when I did that, then it said "short to battery" and wouldn't change as I wiggled the harness.
Out of curiosity I opened up the harness loom and discovered that it had been repaired previously (probably got snagged on some sage brush when the BLM owned it). But as it was jumpered and I was wiggling the wiring repair, nothing was changing, so I knew they did a good job fixing it with quality heat shrink.
Next I focused my attention on the connector and terminals. The male terminals looked straight and free of corrosion so I used a small dental pick to tighten up the female terminals just a little and then plugged it back in to test it. Apparently that's where the problem was because now I can wiggle the connector and nothing changes on the data.
After this I test drove my truck and exorcized both lockers a couple times, with and without my bypass switch and it all worked as it should.
One other thing I noticed on the FDCM data was four parameters that I hadn't seen before.
So the next time it seems like it's taking your lockers forever to engage, maybe it's because you're moving too fast and exceeded the 3 MPH threshold doing the S turn locker dance.
Also, after playing with an actuator on the bench it became apparent to me how important it is that the sensor magnet inside the differential is clean and that the air gap is adjusted correctly. When you're driving down the road towing a trailer and the axle temperature is rising, the magnetic force is getting weaker and the sensor might be telling the SmartBar that it's locked when it really isn't. Read about the Curie Point on Wikipedia.
Here's the procedure for adjusting the magnet air gap according to the manufacturer and I would favor a tight tolerance if you're having flashing locker light problems.
So in the end you should have:
Keep in mind that Flattire's truck is an 2005, which is a pre-CAN computer system, so there is no way to read FDCM data on his truck with a scanner. This makes the situation much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing electronic problems, you have to resort to back probing harnesses with a multimeter to get data and once you have that data there's a drought of information to help you figure out what it means.
I started by doing simple bench tests to check for continuity and resistance.
On both the old actuator and the good one that I tested on my truck, the results were the same: When I tested resistance on pins #1 & 4 they both read 1.7 -1.9 ohms. When I applied 12V power and ground to pins #1 & 4 the electro magnet energized and created a magnetic field. Testing the sensor wires (pins #2 & 3) is where it gets weird. On both of them the resistance was 6+ mega ohms and had no significant change when the locker was engaged or disengaged. Pin #2 is a 5V reference voltage from the FDCM/SmartBar into the sensor and pin #3 is the modified voltage returning to the SmartBar based on sensor input. When I measured voltage on pin #3, it was 0.6V when unlocked and 1.4V when locked. The only thing that I didn't do was to apply heat to the old actuator to see if it caused any changes to the readings. However I can tell you that when the electro magnet is energized, after 5+ minutes, it gets almost too warm to touch (130-140º). The way that I tested the "lock/unlock" ability of the old actuator was to plug it into my truck and apply a neodymium magnet to the sensor and read the results on my scanner. Also, the sensor is polarity sensitive to the magnet. Apply the magnet one way and nothing happens, flip the magnet over to the other pole and then you get results.
Now on to my flashing locker light which developed during the course of testing: The rear locker light would be off after initial startup, but after driving a few miles it would start flashing and then sometimes go off again. If I tried to engage the locker when it was flashing, nothing would happen, but if the light was off, I could engage the locker, but sometimes it would disengage and start flashing. However, last weekend I went wheeling with no flashing light for hours of on and off road driving.
This weekend I hooked up my scanner because it was flashing regularly and this is what I found:
I was able to read data while I was driving and as I would go around corners and hit bumps the data would change from "unlocked" to "short to ground" and back again. When I got back to my house there was a code stored and the light was still flashing. I left the engine running and put my scanner under the truck so I could see it. As I wiggled the harness and connector I could change the data so I knew it was a bad connection somewhere. When I unplugged the connector the data continued to read "short to ground". The factory service manual told me to put a jumper wire between pin #2 & 3, when I did that, then it said "short to battery" and wouldn't change as I wiggled the harness.
Out of curiosity I opened up the harness loom and discovered that it had been repaired previously (probably got snagged on some sage brush when the BLM owned it). But as it was jumpered and I was wiggling the wiring repair, nothing was changing, so I knew they did a good job fixing it with quality heat shrink.
Next I focused my attention on the connector and terminals. The male terminals looked straight and free of corrosion so I used a small dental pick to tighten up the female terminals just a little and then plugged it back in to test it. Apparently that's where the problem was because now I can wiggle the connector and nothing changes on the data.
After this I test drove my truck and exorcized both lockers a couple times, with and without my bypass switch and it all worked as it should.
One other thing I noticed on the FDCM data was four parameters that I hadn't seen before.
So the next time it seems like it's taking your lockers forever to engage, maybe it's because you're moving too fast and exceeded the 3 MPH threshold doing the S turn locker dance.
Also, after playing with an actuator on the bench it became apparent to me how important it is that the sensor magnet inside the differential is clean and that the air gap is adjusted correctly. When you're driving down the road towing a trailer and the axle temperature is rising, the magnetic force is getting weaker and the sensor might be telling the SmartBar that it's locked when it really isn't. Read about the Curie Point on Wikipedia.
Here's the procedure for adjusting the magnet air gap according to the manufacturer and I would favor a tight tolerance if you're having flashing locker light problems.
So in the end you should have:
- 12V+ at pin #1 when the the locker is engaged.
- 0V at pin #4 when the locker is engaged. (Apparently this is the ground source for both the actuator magnet and sensor)
- Continuity between pins #1 & 4 on the sensor side of the connector with an approximate resistance of 1.8 Ω.
- Approximately 5V always present with the key on at pin #2.
- 0.6V at pin #3, when the connector is plugged in, if your locker is unlocked.
- 1.4V at pin #3, when the connector is plugged in, if your locker is locked.
- 5.0V - 12V at pin #3 would indicate that there is a short in the wiring or sensor to reference voltage or battery+.
- 0.0V at pin #3 would indicate an open circuit or short to ground in the wiring or sensor.
Last edited by Retired BLM Rig on Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Can't remember if the magnets move closer together or farther apart when locker is engaged. It's been a hundred years since I had my cover off last.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
The sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.
Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Well jeeezuz, no wonder its a stroke of luck half the time for a locker to actually lock up. Why the heck do they have to make it so complicated?! (I guess I know the answer to that)
Great info BLM, thanks for the update!
Great info BLM, thanks for the update!
2016 Ram Power Wagon Laramie - Granite Crystal Metallic - Ramboxes - 35” AT3W - TazerRAM
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
That's what I thought, wasn't sure. I can see this happening. Magnets set on hairy edge. Over time, magnets gets weak. Flashing light. Or magnets get HOT, magnets gets weak because of. Flashing light. Think a member or two here has had the later problem.Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:33 amThe sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.
Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?
How come they couldn't use something like a simple micro switch.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
The old magnet gets reused.Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:33 amThe sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.
Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?
When my rear locker started having this problem, the first thing I did was to change the gear oil, clean and gap the magnet to spec but it did not help.
I personally feel, but don't have hard evidence, that something internally within actuator starts to degrade (warp, separate, break, etc.) after so many miles of heating and cooling causing electrical inconsistencies that result in this problem.
For me at first, the rear axle had to get really warm before the light started flashing, then over time it came on much faster, so definity heat related to some degree.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Retired BLM rig,
That is awesome info. That should be stickied somewhere.
So, based on your info, my money says that they have replaced MANY rear locker assemblies, needlessly. Costing them PLENTY, because their dealers/service managers/technicians are clueless !!!
That is awesome info. That should be stickied somewhere.
So, based on your info, my money says that they have replaced MANY rear locker assemblies, needlessly. Costing them PLENTY, because their dealers/service managers/technicians are clueless !!!
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Forgot all about this.
New actuator didn't come with magnet.
The engineers ( and lawyers probably) came up with a system so complicated / fragile that even they couldn't fix it . Yes customers and dealers were left with replacing parts as the best option to repair. A simple on/off switch would have done the job.
Just got through moving to central Florida. Waiting for new house to be finished. Locker light has stayed off since repair. Haven't seen anywhere to drive so far (with or without lockers!)
New actuator didn't come with magnet.
The engineers ( and lawyers probably) came up with a system so complicated / fragile that even they couldn't fix it . Yes customers and dealers were left with replacing parts as the best option to repair. A simple on/off switch would have done the job.
Just got through moving to central Florida. Waiting for new house to be finished. Locker light has stayed off since repair. Haven't seen anywhere to drive so far (with or without lockers!)
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Have 4 liters of OS Giken 85w-250 gear lube, at $70.00 per liter if you want to try it. It's the stuff I have to use in my track car with the OS Giken LSD. The chit is so thick, I broke my pump trying to pump it in the diff. Maybe start running diff coolers now.TwinStick wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pmMine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
The Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.TwinStick wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pmMine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Is it GL4 or GL5 ?DamageWagon wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:21 pmThe Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.TwinStick wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pmMine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
- DamageWagon
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- Model Year: 2011
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
It is a GL-5 and can also be used in GL-4 applicationsRustyPW wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:54 pmIs it GL4 or GL5 ?DamageWagon wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:21 pmThe Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.TwinStick wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pmMine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
I had the same flashing rear locker issue. Flashing and no locking diffs. I had the mechanic test it and it appeared as though the actuator was out. Luckily I had purchased an extended warranty for the truck. My mechanic is a great guy, so they did some other checking and my ball joints were not in great shape. So, I had them switch the old ones out with Dynatrac ball joints and a new actuator for my rear locker. I was out the door for $280 as I have a $100 deductible and the Dynatrac parts were more costly. Thanks to BLM rig for walking me through some possible issues. I still love my PW, but this was the reason I bought the extended warranty in the first place. I have a couple years left before I am on my own, but I am hoping to get most of the issues out of the way. I use my truck pretty hard in the 28K miles I have owned it. I tow my camper regularly and I off road with the truck quite often. This is still a great truck, and I am hoping to run it for a long time. I changed the front diff fluid to get on the same interval as the rear. Everything looked good with the fluid. I run the Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90. Looking forward to testing out the new locker setup!
2012 Power Wagon
Frame-welded Aluminess Rock Sliders, Kenda Klever RT (35/12.50R17), ARE Z-Series Topper, DeeZee Tailgate Assist, Husky X-act Contour Mats, Purple Cranium Diff Covers Front and Rear, Dodge Offroad Steering Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Thuren Short Arms, Thuren Fox 2.0 Remote Reservoir Shocks, Airlifter Ultimate 5000 airbags, Daystar Cradles, High Country Customs Bumper, Dynatrac ball joints, WWSP HD Towing Valve Body, PML Transmission pan, Thuren XD Swaybar Links, Thuren XS front coils, Abel Components Full Swaybar Bypass, All AMSOIL fluids from Code4Synthetics.com
Frame-welded Aluminess Rock Sliders, Kenda Klever RT (35/12.50R17), ARE Z-Series Topper, DeeZee Tailgate Assist, Husky X-act Contour Mats, Purple Cranium Diff Covers Front and Rear, Dodge Offroad Steering Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Thuren Short Arms, Thuren Fox 2.0 Remote Reservoir Shocks, Airlifter Ultimate 5000 airbags, Daystar Cradles, High Country Customs Bumper, Dynatrac ball joints, WWSP HD Towing Valve Body, PML Transmission pan, Thuren XD Swaybar Links, Thuren XS front coils, Abel Components Full Swaybar Bypass, All AMSOIL fluids from Code4Synthetics.com
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Yeah, I had weird light issues, etc. Dealer diagnosed as the rear locker solenoid bad, dropped the diff, swapped it and I was off to Moab. Parts took a few days and the truck took a few days to finalize, as apparently the solution to one issue is ‘leave it off overnight’, but it got done and worked.
2018 White Rambox, Diamondback HD bed cover, White Knuckle sliders, Carli and Purple Cranium diff guards, masterpull 11mm superline, 37 Toyo MT.
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Had my rear diff rebuilt a few months ago... new bearings, gears, and a new actuator. Light doesn't blink on the dash anymore, and the lockers acutally work now. (not that I ever use them...)
- stamm20
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:09 amSo I'm the recipient of Flattire's old locker actuator and I finally had some time to do some testing. I wanted to document my findings here in the hopes that someone else dealing with a flashing locker light in the future would have a baseline of information to deal with that might help lead to a more accurate diagnosis. The odd thing is, that in the process of testing, my own rear locker light started flashing and setting a code in the final drive control module (FDCM). I was beginning to suspect that the problem was contagious and that my truck had contracted the disease.
Keep in mind that Flattire's truck is an 2005, which is a pre-CAN computer system, so there is no way to read FDCM data on his truck with a scanner. This makes the situation much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing electronic problems, you have to resort to back probing harnesses with a multimeter to get data and once you have that data there's a drought of information to help you figure out what it means.
I started by doing simple bench tests to check for continuity and resistance.
Screen Shot 2018-04-01 at 6.45.32 PM.png
Hey BLM do you have the same pic of the front locker plug?
07 Brilliant Black Power Wagon
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Here's the website that has all the images for connectors, pin positions and wire colors for Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge and Ram. You just have to be patient in your searching: https://connectorrepairkit.mopar.comstamm20 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:30 pmHey BLM do you have the same pic of the front locker plug?Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:09 amSo I'm the recipient of Flattire's old locker actuator and I finally had some time to do some testing. I wanted to document my findings here in the hopes that someone else dealing with a flashing locker light in the future would have a baseline of information to deal with that might help lead to a more accurate diagnosis. The odd thing is, that in the process of testing, my own rear locker light started flashing and setting a code in the final drive control module (FDCM). I was beginning to suspect that the problem was contagious and that my truck had contracted the disease.
Keep in mind that Flattire's truck is an 2005, which is a pre-CAN computer system, so there is no way to read FDCM data on his truck with a scanner. This makes the situation much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing electronic problems, you have to resort to back probing harnesses with a multimeter to get data and once you have that data there's a drought of information to help you figure out what it means.
I started by doing simple bench tests to check for continuity and resistance.
Screen Shot 2018-04-01 at 6.45.32 PM.png
For your year, the layout/pin position is the same as the rear locker plug, just the circuit numbers and wire colors are different. Here's the front locker plug:
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
- stamm20
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- Location: Greenville, NC
Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!
Thanks man!! I appreciate it!!
07 Brilliant Black Power Wagon
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles