Rear locker working again......replaced!!

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flattire
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Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by flattire » Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:05 pm

This topic is a combination of several others . Hope it helps anyone in L.A. area.

Rear locker hasn't worked for a few years (?) Tried all the usual things. Wiring , clean connectors, position sensor, code reader, grounds, dealer diagnostic. I figured rear actuator was bad but dealer wants $2500 to replace. Truck is 2005 and very stock. Fellow poster CODER bought part on internet and had local SoCal shop replace it . $345 part and $250 labor. And his works!!

I ordered part # 05175302 AB from Mopar Parts Source in N.Y. $345.

Used J & S Gear in Huntington Beach for the install. (Same as Coder). 2.5 hours labor and about $50 for fluid. Phone (714) 841-4545. John is owner. It works now! :rockon:

No need to drive around with Serv4WD light on . And stay away from the dealer!

Note: I have old actuator and want to do autopsy on it. (Retired BLM rig ?)

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by RustyPW » Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:53 pm

Good to hear that it's working again. Yeah, we need to know what is happening with the old locker.
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Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Tue Sep 26, 2017 2:33 am

It would be interesting to compare the sensor and actuator resistance numbers between the new one and the old one. You might have to use a hairdryer to warm it up and cause it to fail on the bench. Maybe use a small magnet on the sensor and see how it changes the reading as well.
I'm so glad to hear that you're driving a true 4X4 again :rockon:

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by Mr.Smith » Tue Sep 26, 2017 10:41 am

For $2,500 you could replace the whole axle! That's a crazy price, how is this justified...? Well done Sir's!

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by coder » Tue Sep 26, 2017 2:00 pm

Hello flattire, that's great glad everything came together! We should do a local desert/mountain trip to test everything out....
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Inferno Red
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Toyo AT II's 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | DieHard Platinum Battery G65 | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:09 am

So I'm the recipient of Flattire's old locker actuator and I finally had some time to do some testing. I wanted to document my findings here in the hopes that someone else dealing with a flashing locker light in the future would have a baseline of information to deal with that might help lead to a more accurate diagnosis. The odd thing is, that in the process of testing, my own rear locker light started flashing and setting a code in the final drive control module (FDCM). I was beginning to suspect that the problem was contagious and that my truck had contracted the disease.

Keep in mind that Flattire's truck is an 2005, which is a pre-CAN computer system, so there is no way to read FDCM data on his truck with a scanner. This makes the situation much more difficult when it comes to diagnosing electronic problems, you have to resort to back probing harnesses with a multimeter to get data and once you have that data there's a drought of information to help you figure out what it means.

I started by doing simple bench tests to check for continuity and resistance.

Screen Shot 2018-04-01 at 6.45.32 PM.png
Rear Locker Connector for an 05 PW (your wire colors may vary).

On both the old actuator and the good one that I tested on my truck, the results were the same: When I tested resistance on pins #1 & 4 they both read 1.7 -1.9 ohms. When I applied 12V power and ground to pins #1 & 4 the electro magnet energized and created a magnetic field. Testing the sensor wires (pins #2 & 3) is where it gets weird. On both of them the resistance was 6+ mega ohms and had no significant change when the locker was engaged or disengaged. Pin #2 is a 5V reference voltage from the FDCM/SmartBar into the sensor and pin #3 is the modified voltage returning to the SmartBar based on sensor input. When I measured voltage on pin #3, it was 0.6V when unlocked and 1.4V when locked. The only thing that I didn't do was to apply heat to the old actuator to see if it caused any changes to the readings. However I can tell you that when the electro magnet is energized, after 5+ minutes, it gets almost too warm to touch (130-140º). The way that I tested the "lock/unlock" ability of the old actuator was to plug it into my truck and apply a neodymium magnet to the sensor and read the results on my scanner. Also, the sensor is polarity sensitive to the magnet. Apply the magnet one way and nothing happens, flip the magnet over to the other pole and then you get results.

Locker testing - 9.jpg
Actuator with a small magnet applied to the sensor, to the right of the wires.

Now on to my flashing locker light which developed during the course of testing: The rear locker light would be off after initial startup, but after driving a few miles it would start flashing and then sometimes go off again. If I tried to engage the locker when it was flashing, nothing would happen, but if the light was off, I could engage the locker, but sometimes it would disengage and start flashing. However, last weekend I went wheeling with no flashing light for hours of on and off road driving.

This weekend I hooked up my scanner because it was flashing regularly and this is what I found:

Locker testing - 1.jpg
Rear locker shows "Short to ground" when wiggling connector and unplugged.

I was able to read data while I was driving and as I would go around corners and hit bumps the data would change from "unlocked" to "short to ground" and back again. When I got back to my house there was a code stored and the light was still flashing. I left the engine running and put my scanner under the truck so I could see it. As I wiggled the harness and connector I could change the data so I knew it was a bad connection somewhere. When I unplugged the connector the data continued to read "short to ground". The factory service manual told me to put a jumper wire between pin #2 & 3, when I did that, then it said "short to battery" and wouldn't change as I wiggled the harness.

Locker testing - 2.jpg
Rear locker shows "Short to battery" with pin #2 & 3 jumpered together.

Out of curiosity I opened up the harness loom and discovered that it had been repaired previously (probably got snagged on some sage brush when the BLM owned it). But as it was jumpered and I was wiggling the wiring repair, nothing was changing, so I knew they did a good job fixing it with quality heat shrink.

Locker testing - 6.jpg
BLM repaired harness, still good.

Next I focused my attention on the connector and terminals. The male terminals looked straight and free of corrosion so I used a small dental pick to tighten up the female terminals just a little and then plugged it back in to test it. Apparently that's where the problem was because now I can wiggle the connector and nothing changes on the data.

Locker testing - 8.jpg
Back to normal, "Unlocked".

After this I test drove my truck and exorcized both lockers a couple times, with and without my bypass switch and it all worked as it should.

One other thing I noticed on the FDCM data was four parameters that I hadn't seen before.

Locker testing - 7.jpg
The bottom four lines show "Locked threshold" and "Unlocked threshold".

So the next time it seems like it's taking your lockers forever to engage, maybe it's because you're moving too fast and exceeded the 3 MPH threshold doing the S turn locker dance.

Also, after playing with an actuator on the bench it became apparent to me how important it is that the sensor magnet inside the differential is clean and that the air gap is adjusted correctly. When you're driving down the road towing a trailer and the axle temperature is rising, the magnetic force is getting weaker and the sensor might be telling the SmartBar that it's locked when it really isn't. Read about the Curie Point on Wikipedia.
Here's the procedure for adjusting the magnet air gap according to the manufacturer and I would favor a tight tolerance if you're having flashing locker light problems.

Screen Shot 2017-01-11 at 9.49.22 PM.png
Magnet air gap adjustment procedure 24-27.

IMG_1280.JPG
My air gap will hold a 5mm hex socket snug.

IMG_1281.JPG
A closer view.

So in the end you should have:
  • 12V+ at pin #1 when the the locker is engaged.
  • 0V at pin #4 when the locker is engaged. (Apparently this is the ground source for both the actuator magnet and sensor)
  • Continuity between pins #1 & 4 on the sensor side of the connector with an approximate resistance of 1.8 Ω.
  • Approximately 5V always present with the key on at pin #2.
  • 0.6V at pin #3, when the connector is plugged in, if your locker is unlocked.
  • 1.4V at pin #3, when the connector is plugged in, if your locker is locked.
  • 5.0V - 12V at pin #3 would indicate that there is a short in the wiring or sensor to reference voltage or battery+.
  • 0.0V at pin #3 would indicate an open circuit or short to ground in the wiring or sensor.
That's the best I can come up with. I hope it helps out someone else in the future.

:patriot:
Last edited by Retired BLM Rig on Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by RustyPW » Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:49 am

Can't remember if the magnets move closer together or farther apart when locker is engaged. It's been a hundred years since I had my cover off last.
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2008 POWER WAGON RC
Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:33 am

RustyPW wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:49 am
Can't remember if the magnets move closer together or farther apart when locker is engaged. It's been a hundred years since I had my cover off last.
The sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.

Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by olyelr » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:41 am

Well jeeezuz, no wonder its a stroke of luck half the time for a locker to actually lock up. Why the heck do they have to make it so complicated?! (I guess I know the answer to that)

Great info BLM, thanks for the update!
2016 Ram Power Wagon Laramie - Granite Crystal Metallic - Ramboxes :patriot:

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by RustyPW » Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:10 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:33 am
RustyPW wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:49 am
Can't remember if the magnets move closer together or farther apart when locker is engaged. It's been a hundred years since I had my cover off last.
The sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.

Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?
That's what I thought, wasn't sure. I can see this happening. Magnets set on hairy edge. Over time, magnets gets weak. Flashing light. Or magnets get HOT, magnets gets weak because of. Flashing light. Think a member or two here has had the later problem.

How come they couldn't use something like a simple micro switch.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by coder » Mon Apr 02, 2018 6:08 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:33 am
RustyPW wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:49 am
Can't remember if the magnets move closer together or farther apart when locker is engaged. It's been a hundred years since I had my cover off last.
The sensor moves away from the target magnet when the locker is engaged, so if it's right on the edge of the magnetic field to start with and then things heat up... You could end up with a false "Locked" signal to the SmartBar when it wasn't commanded, resulting in a flashing locker light.

Maybe Flattire or Coder could answer this question. Does the new actuator include a new target magnet in the package, or does the old one get reused?
The old magnet gets reused.

When my rear locker started having this problem, the first thing I did was to change the gear oil, clean and gap the magnet to spec but it did not help.

I personally feel, but don't have hard evidence, that something internally within actuator starts to degrade (warp, separate, break, etc.) after so many miles of heating and cooling causing electrical inconsistencies that result in this problem.

For me at first, the rear axle had to get really warm before the light started flashing, then over time it came on much faster, so definity heat related to some degree.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Inferno Red
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Toyo AT II's 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | DieHard Platinum Battery G65 | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by TwinStick » Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pm

Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by TwinStick » Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:39 pm

Retired BLM rig,

That is awesome info. That should be stickied somewhere.

So, based on your info, my money says that they have replaced MANY rear locker assemblies, needlessly. Costing them PLENTY, because their dealers/service managers/technicians are clueless !!! :doh:
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by flattire » Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:36 pm

Forgot all about this.
New actuator didn't come with magnet.

The engineers ( and lawyers probably) came up with a system so complicated / fragile that even they couldn't fix it . Yes customers and dealers were left with replacing parts as the best option to repair. A simple on/off switch would have done the job.

Just got through moving to central Florida. Waiting for new house to be finished. Locker light has stayed off since repair. Haven't seen anywhere to drive so far (with or without lockers!)

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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by RustyPW » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:18 pm

TwinStick wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pm
Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
Have 4 liters of OS Giken 85w-250 gear lube, at $70.00 per liter if you want to try it. It's the stuff I have to use in my track car with the OS Giken LSD. The chit is so thick, I broke my pump trying to pump it in the diff. :shock: Maybe start running diff coolers now. :lol:
Attachments
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Rausch Creek Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18,
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by DamageWagon » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:21 pm

TwinStick wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pm
Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
The Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.

RustyPW
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by RustyPW » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:54 pm

DamageWagon wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:21 pm
TwinStick wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pm
Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
The Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.
Is it GL4 or GL5 ?
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DamageWagon
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Re: Rear locker working again......replaced!!

Post by DamageWagon » Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:31 pm

RustyPW wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:54 pm
DamageWagon wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:21 pm
TwinStick wrote:
Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:32 pm
Mine too. I believe it was heat related. Mine happened while towing (when we first got our new-lighter 3500 lb camper). I stay at 65 mph or less now while towing. Going to try the Amsoil SVT Severe Gear 110w next time. I recorded the 315* F reading on rear diff, while towing 10,500 lbs w/about a 1500-1800 lb tongue weight, 95* F day, while running Amsoil FGR 75w-90 Long Life Gear Lube---designed to go 500,000 miles. I was not impressed. Maybe their Severe Gear Formula is better, IDK ? If I go over 65 mph while towing, with stock tires & 4.56's, the temp starts to climb in the rear diff, even with the double oil capacity of the Mag-Hytec rear diff cover (6 qts) with fins. 65 mph lets it stay at 170-175* F, towing or empty.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... e=FGRQT-EA
The Severe Gear stuff is awesome. Factory drain interval on our rears is 15,000. I did 40,000 on 75w-90 and the oil looked and smelled brand new when it came out. The 75w-110 and higher viscosities get the EP additive. Like all Amsoil oils, the Signature or Severe Gear lines are notably better than the other lines as they’re a different class of synthetic.
Is it GL4 or GL5 ?
It is a GL-5 and can also be used in GL-4 applications

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