Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by DamageWagon » Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:16 am

Reloaderguy wrote:
MikeKey wrote:
Reloaderguy wrote:
Here is a '16 forged PW wheel. I sold the wheels...for cash money...because the offset is too narrow for larger tires.

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Nah, it's fine dude. And you still trimmed. I have less rubbing than you've reported in your own build thread. Sway bar only. :poke:
Reloaderguy wrote: A little trimming and they fit just fine.
KMC XD128 17x9 +18mm Offset. Toyo RT 37x12.5x17
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I have a 9" wide wheel, not 8". The stock wheels have too much offset for the width with 37" tires which is why you're rubbing the sway bar. I have enough room for 14" wide tires after trimming without any suspension contact.
Planning on the E range Toyo 37's?

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by MikeKey » Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:18 am

Have fun with those 14 inch wide tires.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Hammerballs » Thu Sep 14, 2017 12:00 pm

Are most beadlocks like the Hutchinson's typically forged? Security of beadlocks or not and durability of forged/cast seem to be two different things right? Since Centerline is no more, what other companies do 17" forged wheels with proper off-set and lug pattern for our trucks?

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Reloaderguy » Thu Sep 14, 2017 1:17 pm

Hutchinsons are cast. Raceline and KMC both make forged beadlocks.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by FirerescuePW » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:55 pm

nts007 wrote:I have 09 pw wheels that have alcoa stamped on them. My 06 had the same ones. There is a distinctive bead retention lip on the pw wheels. Now it's not a bead lock but it does work at much lower pressure than a normal tire/wheel can go. I believe 18psi is the factory minimum recommendation that was in the owners manual. I still have the manual and will see if I can find it. The pw manual also walks you through the steps for deeper water crossing.......
Let me clarify- They are still made by Alcoa, but at some point, like '06 or '07, they moved production offshore and "streamlined" (cheapened) the forging process.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by FirerescuePW » Thu Sep 14, 2017 4:55 pm

nts007 wrote:I have 09 pw wheels that have alcoa stamped on them. My 06 had the same ones. There is a distinctive bead retention lip on the pw wheels. Now it's not a bead lock but it does work at much lower pressure than a normal tire/wheel can go. I believe 18psi is the factory minimum recommendation that was in the owners manual. I still have the manual and will see if I can find it. The pw manual also walks you through the steps for deeper water crossing.......
Let me clarify- They are still made by Alcoa, but at some point, like '06 or '07, they moved production offshore and "streamlined" (cheapened) the forging process.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by RustyPW » Thu Sep 14, 2017 6:33 pm

last year at Rausch Creek. I beat Peter's stock PW round again. After he bent it on a tree stump. :lol: Think he is still using it.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Colibri » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:35 pm

Forged beadlock > cast beadlock
Like
King 3.0 bypass > fox 2.0

Which is to say, not really, unless you want or need the capability.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by nts007 » Thu Sep 14, 2017 10:37 pm

FirerescuePW wrote:
nts007 wrote:I have 09 pw wheels that have alcoa stamped on them. My 06 had the same ones. There is a distinctive bead retention lip on the pw wheels. Now it's not a bead lock but it does work at much lower pressure than a normal tire/wheel can go. I believe 18psi is the factory minimum recommendation that was in the owners manual. I still have the manual and will see if I can find it. The pw manual also walks you through the steps for deeper water crossing.......
Let me clarify- They are still made by Alcoa, but at some point, like '06 or '07, they moved production offshore and "streamlined" (cheapened) the forging process.

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Got ya. I was a little confused. Makes sense. But I'm suprised though that to save money that Chrysler would not have ordered 4 years worth of production rims in one shot and just kept putting them on wagons from stock 05 through 09. I had heard that once before so that why I was unsure.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Ducky's Dad » Fri Sep 15, 2017 8:14 am

The best bang for the buck on a wheel upgrade is the H2 wheel. You get another 1/2" rim width (8-1/2") and about 1/4" more backspacing. They are forged and have the internal beadlock lips, DOT approved, and you can easily adapt the PW center caps to fit them, so everything looks right. If you trash one, they are cheap to buy and cheap to replace. I bought two sets in near perfect condition for $200 and $250. Have the centers bored to fit your hubs and then send them to powdercoating if you really want black.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by rkgzx9leftcoast » Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:34 am

Hammerballs wrote:Are most beadlocks like the Hutchinson's typically forged? Security of beadlocks or not and durability of forged/cast seem to be two different things right? Since Centerline is no more, what other companies do 17" forged wheels with proper off-set and lug pattern for our trucks?

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I looked at wheels for Months,before I pulled the trigger. If you look at most manufacturers websites they separate out their forged Racing bead locks. Unfortunately, most of them dont have the positive offset which works best with our trucks 5.75 of +18 or even 6.00 backspace. The width of the rim plays into that, most put the extra on the outside, so the outer part of the tire sticks out more. My Method Standards are 8.5 inches wide and 5.75 backspace(+18) and I think about perfect, no rubbing whatsoever with 37 Ridge Grapplers.

On the forged VS Cats. Trail ready is cast, but made in USA, There is a company innov8, but they only have 4.5 and 5.0 backspace at the moment, they are Forged but $$$ They have said they are working on 5.75 for Dodge ...... but who knows. I know Method and Raceline have Forged Bead locks, as well as but not in correct backspace. KMC and a few others mentioned as well. I know the Hutchinson are nice, but heavy as I understand it and I believe cast. The Hummer option is another route. depends on what you like the looks of.

Really depends upon what your intended use is, and how much maintenance you want to do....Bead locks take a lot of looking after and re-torquing.




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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Colibri » Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:39 am

Walker Evans has forged Beadlocks in the correct backspace
Central Texas and Houston area
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
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Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by rkgzx9leftcoast » Fri Sep 15, 2017 12:56 pm

Colibri wrote:Walker Evans has forged Beadlocks in the correct backspace

Yep, thanks, forgot about them, the Newer Black ones are sexy as hell!! I thought about them for a minute....but I think I want Kings More. LOL so the Methods went on for now... see how they hold up.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by RustyPW » Fri Sep 15, 2017 1:24 pm

nts007 wrote:
FirerescuePW wrote:
nts007 wrote:I have 09 pw wheels that have alcoa stamped on them. My 06 had the same ones. There is a distinctive bead retention lip on the pw wheels. Now it's not a bead lock but it does work at much lower pressure than a normal tire/wheel can go. I believe 18psi is the factory minimum recommendation that was in the owners manual. I still have the manual and will see if I can find it. The pw manual also walks you through the steps for deeper water crossing.......
Let me clarify- They are still made by Alcoa, but at some point, like '06 or '07, they moved production offshore and "streamlined" (cheapened) the forging process.

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Got ya. I was a little confused. Makes sense. But I'm suprised though that to save money that Chrysler would not have ordered 4 years worth of production rims in one shot and just kept putting them on wagons from stock 05 through 09. I had heard that once before so that why I was unsure.
We had a thread on this on DT. Sometime in the early '08 model run. Dodge switched from USA Alcoa to chinese Alcoa. I have the chinese Alcoa. Someone who had their PW built a month before mine got the USA Alcoa.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Hammerballs » Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:57 pm

Damn it! Such a hard decision. I with the stock wheels were a better off-set for 37s. Not sure I like the looks of H2 wheels. Would prefer forged but the price is crazy! $750ea for those Walker Evans forged beadlocks. Doh!

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by DamageWagon » Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:04 pm

If you've got a radius arm truck and stick with a 12.5 wide tire it isn't bad at all. @mikekey is running the Toyo 37x12.5's on stock wheels and they barely touch the swaybar. Just needed a little fender liner plastic trimming. Why not run the 37's for now and change wheels later?

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Hammerballs » Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:49 pm

Mostly just being OCD and anal. Also, I want to go to black wheels as I add items like your bumpers ;-) ,rock sliders, and bed rack in black. Basically I'm minimizing the amount chrome on my truck so it is just a subtle accent since I don't want to go through the trouble of full delete and deal with the mirrors and door handles plus the chrome inside.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Hammerballs » Fri Sep 15, 2017 10:52 pm

Did some research and also learned that only the optional H2 wheels were Alcoa forged. The standard wheels that you see a lot for sale are cast. They do have the nice +18 off-set though. Saw a pic of a set using the Ram center caps too and it looked pretty sharp.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by RustyPW » Fri Sep 15, 2017 11:29 pm

Hammerballs wrote:Damn it! Such a hard decision. I with the stock wheels were a better off-set for 37s. Not sure I like the looks of H2 wheels. Would prefer forged but the price is crazy! $750ea for those Walker Evans forged beadlocks. Doh!

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$750 is cheap for rims. You never bought Forgeline rims. :shock: :poke:
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Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Sep 16, 2017 9:55 am

rkgzx9leftcoast wrote:
Colibri wrote:Walker Evans has forged Beadlocks in the correct backspace

Yep, thanks, forgot about them, the Newer Black ones are sexy as hell!! I thought about them for a minute....but I think I want Kings More. LOL so the Methods went on for now... see how they hold up.
That's pretty much why I chose the wheels I did. Eventually I'll switch to something else so I chose a mid-cost cast wheel until I decide. The wheels I have now will fit almost any tire I want.
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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by olyelr » Sat Sep 16, 2017 10:23 pm

RustyPW wrote:
Hammerballs wrote:Damn it! Such a hard decision. I with the stock wheels were a better off-set for 37s. Not sure I like the looks of H2 wheels. Would prefer forged but the price is crazy! $750ea for those Walker Evans forged beadlocks. Doh!

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$750 is cheap for rims. You never bought Forgeline rims. :shock: :poke:

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by RustyPW » Sat Sep 16, 2017 11:48 pm

olyelr wrote:
RustyPW wrote:
Hammerballs wrote:Damn it! Such a hard decision. I with the stock wheels were a better off-set for 37s. Not sure I like the looks of H2 wheels. Would prefer forged but the price is crazy! $750ea for those Walker Evans forged beadlocks. Doh!

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$750 is cheap for rims. You never bought Forgeline rims. :shock: :poke:

Its rimz, not rims.
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Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Wheels: OEM vs Aftermarket

Post by ramv » Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:39 pm

On my second gen, I pop inners pretty regularly with Allieds. (42" Iroks). My next beadlock will be Hutchisons

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