2010 Rear Pinion Seal

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Will
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2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Will » Mon Aug 28, 2017 8:13 am

I have 165K miles and it has started marking it's territory. I went to the local parts houses this weekend and nobody has a pinion seal so I am ordering this morning. Is that all I need or do I need a new nut and a crush sleeve? I'm having a hard time finding any specs on torquing the pinion nut after changing the seal. I'd rather not have to take it to a mechanic if I can change it myself. Just wondering if I can change this is 30 minutes or will it be a full on reset the gears and everything?
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by coder » Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:44 pm

I have the specs for a 3 Gen PW not sure if yours will be the same, let me know if you want me to post it.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Will
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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Will » Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:03 pm

Is it the same axle? I don't remember.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by coder » Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:45 pm

They're are both AAM 10.5 axles there may be some differences but I doubt anything significant.
Last edited by coder on Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by coder » Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:53 pm

Here are the removal/install instructions for a 3 Gen.
Attachments
removal.jpg
install.jpg
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by cb1987 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:22 am

30min no way in hell you have it done. and you better have a big ass breaker bar or a strong impact gun to get the nut loose. you can use a new nut but have a strong impact ready. other wise just put some marks and reuse the old nut with Loctite. you wont find a torq spec because there is no torq spec on that nut. its tightened until the specified rotating torq is reached. normally I don't have good luck with parts house brand seals but that's your call. this place is decent http://www.cmgearworks.com/small-parts- ... odge-2003/ .I made a thread how to do this procedure not long ago just go check it out. if you need the 8896 seal driver I have one ill sell $25 to your door if your in the lower 48, I don't have a spare handle for it however

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Will » Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:54 pm

cb1987 wrote:30min no way in hell you have it done.
Sounds like a challenge :lol: :lol:
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Pit Slave » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:11 pm

30 minutes is doable if you are prepped for the job.

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit
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One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
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I guess you could say I'm a bit off center.....:D

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by cb1987 » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:50 pm

if you plan to do the job half way correct youll never get it in 30min. take that to the bank. but it all depends how many corners you want to cut. if you smoke the r&p or any bearings your talking big bucks to fix it

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Reloaderguy » Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:54 pm

You spent three hours on the job a still did it half way correct too.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by cb1987 » Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:01 pm

because i didnt pull the carrier out ? haha i figured you would say something that stupid. just like you asked several times if i measured how much torq to get the nut off. sounds like you never worked on a crush sleeve design and your comments show it

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Reloaderguy » Wed Aug 30, 2017 2:29 pm

If you're not pulling the carrier then replacing the pinion seal should only take 30 minutes to an hour. The rest is just pseudo engineering.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by cb1987 » Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:16 pm

i see you came to your senses alittle bit and edited your comment to a hour. if he doesnt have a strong airgun he'll burn up 30min just dropping the driveline and try to get the nut undone with a breakerbar. and im not sure a 1/2" drive wouldnt break. i used 3/4" drive 21" long with a short cheater pipe and still it was anything but easy

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by nts007 » Wed Aug 30, 2017 11:17 pm

It's an hour job. If it's been a problem for a while and getting worse you will need a speedy sleeve as well as the new seal. On the pinion shaft before you install the speedy sleeve fill and smooth out the grooves if any with a liquid metal repair. I used permatex liquid metal filler. Seal and sleeve and put back together. Make a mark before removal. Then upon install Tighten crush washer to finger tight. Then to the mark. Then 1/8 turn past. Never been a problem. For removing the nut a Milwaukee 1/2 impact or makita both work very well. It's not rocket science. Stop making it out to be. 95% of the pinion seal repairs done by full bore mechanics do not take the torque readings. They know by feel anyway. I've done an 05 3500 exactly like this at 219k km. And it's still no problem at 445k km. That's the 11.5 axle. Jeeps and Dana 60s and corporate 14 bolt axles. Repaired them all exactly like that one time and never had an issue after the fact.

Also keep in mind sometimes a small oil weep might look like a problem but it may not be losing any oil. Some even correct themselves once a new seal seats. A truck that sits for a few years could have a seal dry out a little and it will weep for a couple hundred km and then be done. But leave a wet spot that gets panties in a bunch.
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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by RustyPW » Thu Aug 31, 2017 12:16 am

If it takes you over a half hour. You're a turtle or you stopped for :chug: break. :lol:
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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Reloaderguy » Thu Aug 31, 2017 12:28 am

cb1987 wrote:i see you came to your senses alittle bit and edited your comment to a hour. if he doesnt have a strong airgun he'll burn up 30min just dropping the driveline and try to get the nut undone with a breakerbar. and im not sure a 1/2" drive wouldnt break. i used 3/4" drive 21" long with a short cheater pipe and still it was anything but easy
I wanted to account for the half of the population with below average IQ's. It's a half our job, maybe longer if you're kind of dumb.

3/4" drive...LOL!

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by RustyPW » Thu Aug 31, 2017 12:39 am

How many here have worked flat rate? :doh: :roll:
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My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826 :cash: :cash:

Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by nts007 » Thu Aug 31, 2017 1:08 am

One hour includes 4 quarterly trips to the fridge for beer. And one pee break. One lunch break and one 10 min browse on the powerwagon registry to see what's new
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Pit Slave » Thu Aug 31, 2017 4:47 am

I've done my front pinon seal in about 30 minutes. It helps if you have the correct tools and experience. ;)

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit
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There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.
John Adams - 1826


I guess you could say I'm a bit off center.....:D

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by cb1987 » Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:28 am

if the older 11.5 is anything like the newer one, 1/2" electric gun wont even budge that nut. bumch of armchair qaurter backs

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Will » Thu Aug 31, 2017 3:08 pm

Well it's gonna take longer than 30 minutes because I didn't know about the sleeve seal and nobody around me has one. Dealer wants to sell the seal and the yoke for $290, I found a seal in Iowa for $10 and shipped overnight sooo...

Pinion Seal AAM 26064030
Pinion Sleeve Seal AAM 26060977


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2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Reloaderguy » Thu Aug 31, 2017 3:49 pm

cb1987 wrote:if the older 11.5 is anything like the newer one, 1/2" electric gun wont even budge that nut. bumch of armchair qaurter backs
The older Power Wagons have a 10.5.

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by RustyPW » Thu Aug 31, 2017 4:51 pm

cb1987 wrote:if the older 11.5 is anything like the newer one, 1/2" electric gun wont even budge that nut. bumch of armchair qaurter backs
You never worked flat rate. You wanted to eat. You busted ass.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC

My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826 :cash: :cash:

Moab '09, '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22,
AOAA Summer '19.

Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle. :lockedandloaded:

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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by Colibri » Thu Aug 31, 2017 5:45 pm

RustyPW wrote:
cb1987 wrote:if the older 11.5 is anything like the newer one, 1/2" electric gun wont even budge that nut. bumch of armchair qaurter backs
You never worked flat rate. You wanted to eat. You busted ass.
Amen. I spent ten years on flat rate, it's a retarded system that's one of the major root causes of people's distrust of automotive technicians.
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Re: 2010 Rear Pinion Seal

Post by nts007 » Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:34 pm

cb1987 wrote:if the older 11.5 is anything like the newer one, 1/2" electric gun wont even budge that nut. bumch of armchair qaurter backs
Completely un true. The Milwaukee 18v has no issue busting nuts. the 1/2" Milwaukee has 700ft/lbs torque fastening and 1100ft/lbs breakaway torque. The 3/4" has 750ft/lbs tightening power and 1200ft/lbs breakaway torque. These arnt your grandpas "electric" impact guns. You really need to stop. We know what a great job you did with your breakdown and rebuild on your brand new axle. But many of us have experience on high mileage rusted stuck parts. Don't discount reasonable advise because you chose to do things a certain way. This forum is about helping each other and trading insults. Not telling everyone they are wrong because you don't agree. lots of guys here been busting knuckles on their wagons before you even test drove one
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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