Replacing Rear Locker Actuator

[coder]

After the first sign of problems last December (orginal thread below) time to finally replace the rear locker actuator can't even drive a few miles without the locker light flashing. Tried to be a frugal as possible, dealer price is in the thousands, got the part online for $345 and found a local shop to install it for $250 having it done this Friday.

http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... f=2&t=4533

[chrisjameswagner]

Mine replaced at 45K miles on a 2012. Thankfully under warranty - $4500 from dealer.

[waldo]

I had the one in my 07 replaced by the dealer and it was around $900 total, but that was some years ago. IIRC there is a bearing that has to be replaced also as I think it gets destroyed in the process. I don't really remember.

[coder]

IIRC there is a bearing that has to be replaced also as I think it gets destroyed in the process. I don't really remember.

The owner of the shop told me they will check the carrier bearings when they pull the differential out and replace them if needed it will add another $200 so I'm hoping they're fine.

One thing that surprised me, they said they will only use 80w-90 conventional gear oil or they won't warranty the parts, apparently many other shops do the same thing. The rationale is they are seeing a lot more gear/bearing failures than they used to and in their words "the axles are the same only the oil has changed".

I'm not sure I agree that it's the fault of the synthetic oil, it comes in every type of vehicle and has for many years. I think it's cheaply made overseas parts, what do you guys think of this?

[TwinStick]

I think what they said is correct. I also think it is a combination of the 2. The E.P.A. are some shady sumbitches. Everytime the little guy starts making out, they get involved. Engine oil technology has gone backwards. The auto manufactures & their lobbyists start complaining. We ain't selling as many cars because they are now lasting 300,000+ miles. Boom, then the EPA says these 5 chemicals are no good & we have to reduce them. Zinc & phosphorus being 2 of the 5. They reduce friction & keep the engine from gunking up inside.

People are also towing heavier & you also have diesel pickups putting down 1000+ ft lbs of torque. All these things combined & I can understand why.
My next diff oil is gonna be either Amsoil Severe Gear 110, or Lubrication Engineers 1605 DUOLEC 110. Hard to argue with temp readings in a rear diff. If one oil runs cooler than another, it's because there is less friction, period.

Here is a good read. The LE Duolec ran 10*F cooler than the Amsoil. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/trans ... wing-axle/

I think my rear locker actuator failed as a result of high diff temps while towing. Not sure what else I can do, short of adding a pump & finned cooler ? I am running a Mag-Hytec cover. It increased the oil capacity from 3, to 6 qts. The temp of my diff while towing our camper did not change at all. It is still around 170-177*F @ 60 mph.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Well, how'd the repair go?

Regarding oil: I would go with synthetic. I've seen a dramatic increase in gearbox longevity since the OEM's started using it. Just my .02¢

[DamageWagon]

Hey BLM, do you have a recommendation for oil in the 10.5 diff? My 2011 seems to get that rear diff pretty hot just running down the highway. My locker light came on last time I drove it and the diff was very hot. I'm running Amsoil severe gear 75w-90, haven't changed it in about 25,000

[waldo]

I doubt if they fail because of the oil. IMHO, they fail due to bad design/cheap construction by AAM. But I doubt many of them fail under warranty so they choose not to do anything about it.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Hey BLM, do you have a recommendation for oil in the 10.5 diff?... I'm running Amsoil severe gear 75w-90, haven't changed it in about 25,000

Sounds like you're running a good high quality fluid, but you're about due for a change. I'm just using off the shelf synthetic.
Footnote to my previous post: The one OEM that has never converted to synthetic gear oil is Toyota, they're still using standard 80W90 GL5, but they require a 30K service interval.

On another note...

I picked this up on Ebay for $4.68 with free shipping and no tax. I couldn't afford not to buy it at that price. Now I just need #6444 to make it work, or build my own.

[TwinStick]

I think they fail due to heat, at least mine anyways. ^^^^^^^^^^So, what is that & what is #6444 ?

I have recorded temps as high as 315*F in mine while towing our old Toy Hauler. I have a Mag-Hytec cover on now, that doubled the stock fluid capacity, from 3 qts to 6 qts. The temps seem to have stayed about the same when towing our new 3500 lb camper with stock cover vs Mag-Hytec cover (170-177*F). But because the fluid amount is doubled It should give me more gear oil life. I've been thinking about getting a 5 gal bucket of this http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/g ... e=SVTQT-EA . And one of these to mount in the temp port on the Mag-Hytrc cover. http://www.autometer.com/2-diff-temp-10 ... antom.html

[Retired BLM Rig]

^^^^^^^^^^So, what is that & what is #6444 ?

That is the special Miller/Mopar adapter tool #9915 for removing the carrier bearing without destroying it on the 10.5" AAM differential, so you can replace the locker actuator. I still need the main puller that fits the adapter (#6444). I'm sure eventually I'll need it to do my own, or help someone else in need.

Miller special tool #6444

shopping.png (6.12 KiB) Viewed 5559 times

[TwinStick]

Well, ain't that awesome ! That is the tool that my dealer did not have, but needed, to do that job on my truck. Owner said "Because we only sold that 1 PW (to me), it would not be cost effective to purchase a $795.00 tool for what would/could be a 1 time use !!!" Can you believe that shit ? They ended up borrowing 1 from another dealer & had it flown in from AZ !!! Prob cost almost as much as the tool did to do that.

[flattire]

^^^^^^^^^^So, what is that & what is #6444 ?

That is the special Miller/Mopar adapter tool #9915 for removing the carrier bearing without destroying it on the 10.5" AAM differential, so you can replace the locker actuator. I still need the main puller that fits the adapter (#6444). I'm sure eventually I'll need it to do my own, or help someone else in need.

shopping.png

There may be an "05 on your waiting list.

[Retired BLM Rig]

^^^^^^^^^^So, what is that & what is #6444 ?

That is the special Miller/Mopar adapter tool #9915 for removing the carrier bearing without destroying it on the 10.5" AAM differential, so you can replace the locker actuator. I still need the main puller that fits the adapter (#6444). I'm sure eventually I'll need it to do my own, or help someone else in need.

shopping.png

There may be an "05 on your waiting list.

It might be a while. I have a saved search for the puller on Ebay. I'll keep you posted. Start saving your pennies for an actuator.

[coder]

Actuator is now installed everything works as good as new. JS Gear Co. did a great job I was on my way home in 2.5 hours. Axle bearings were fine so only cost was labor and oil.

The shop owner is vehemently against the use of synthetic gear oil and filled the axle with conventional Lucas 85w-140. Since thicker oil runs hotter and heat was possibly a contributing factor in the failure of the Actuator, so I replaced the oil with valvoline synpower 75w-90 the next day.

[Bill2014]

Actuator is now installed everything works as good as new. JS Gear Co. did a great job I was on my way home in 2.5 hours. Axle bearings were fine so only cost was labor and oil.

The shop owner is vehemently against the use of synthetic gear oil and filled the axle with conventional Lucas 85w-140. Since thicker oil runs hotter and heat was possibly a contributing factor in the failure of the Actuator, so I replaced the oil with valvoline synpower 75w-90 the next day.

But If you are not towing something substantial, the temperatures should not get that high even with conventional gear oil...

[DamageWagon]

Mine get hot enough not towing that I will be looking into an aluminum cover. Unless Rusty reports back on his diff gear oil pump and cooler.

[coder]

Since my bearings had very little wear after 10 years and 160k miles and all the hard parts in the axle were in good shape I saw no reason to change from the factory recommended 75w-90 synthetic oil.

Pep-Boys had the Valvoline Synpower on sale for $9.99 a quart and I already had 1 in my garage so it was a no-brainer.

[flattire]

CODER:
Did you use JS Gear in Huntington Beach?

This job only took 2.5 hours? Dealer charges $4-5,000 for this job.

Where did you order actuator from?

A lot of shops don't want to put in parts that you bring in. Was this any problem?

[coder]

CODER:
Did you use JS Gear in Huntington Beach?

This job only took 2.5 hours? Dealer charges $4-5,000 for this job.

Where did you order actuator from?

A lot of shops don't want to put in parts that you bring in. Was this any problem?

Did you use JS Gear in Huntington Beach? - Yes

This job only took 2.5 hours? - Yes

Where did you order actuator from? - http://www.stevewhiteparts.com (I buy from them all the time)

A lot of shops don't want to put in parts that you bring in. Was this any problem? - Not a problem, the owner knows his stuff, said it was a straightforward job, he did a PW Actuator the day before brought in by a guy that had it messed-up by another shop.

The whole project parts/labor and changing the oil again myself was about $650 when all was said and done.

[TwinStick]

Damn, that is an outstanding deal !!!

I also did not have good luck in the rear diff with 140w. It averaged 215*F or more. I had the Mopar 75-90w full synthetic in the rear diff when I recorded 315*F, towing our 10,500 lb Toy Hauler on a 97* day, with my laser thermometer. Currently running Amsoil 75-90w. 6 qts in rear diff (Mag-Hytec cover) & average 170-177*F towing our camper @ 60 mph. Staying @ 60 mph instead of 70-80 mph makes a big difference with 4.56's. Empty or towing, just that extra 10-20 mph makes a big difference in the diff temp in my truck. Not really impressed with the longevity of any oil I have used yet in the rear diff. My truck has towed most of it's life. Next will be Amsoil Severe Gear 110w or the Lubrication Engineers 1605 DOULEC that is also 110w. It is sold on the Mag-Hytec website @ $20.00 qt !

I saw this stuff for the first time ever. I know nothing about it though. http://www.runnings.com/auto-lubricants ... -quart.htm Anyone use it ?

[RustyPW]

Mine get hot enough not towing that I will be looking into an aluminum cover. Unless Rusty reports back on his diff gear oil pump and cooler.

My set-up is for track car. To use on the PW. You would need to find a safe place for it. So that the cooler doesn't get hit with rocks. And you would need oil lines that flexed more then the braided stainless lines. I'm not able to install my parts until I heal. So that is looking like the end of Oct maybe.

[TwinStick]

The first people to start making increased oil capacity rear diff covers, that are designed to run a cooler, with the ports already in them, & a small pump, will prob sell a LOT of them to people who tow. I could probably use the Mag-Hytec cover that I have now. There is a large bottom drain & the same size fill hole. Certainly would NOT be off road friendly though, it would be much better to have the oil ports/fittings & hose up out of the way.

[DamageWagon]

Mine get hot enough not towing that I will be looking into an aluminum cover. Unless Rusty reports back on his diff gear oil pump and cooler.

My set-up is for track car. To use on the PW. You would need to find a safe place for it. So that the cooler doesn't get hit with rocks. And you would need oil lines that flexed more then the braided stainless lines. I'm not able to install my parts until I heal. So that is looking like the end of Oct maybe.

m

Rusty I would mount the cooler to the axle with some protection. Definitely needs to be a safe setup. Could run braided stainless lines up to the frame though, the factory does the same thing with its brake lines. My rear diff needs cooling fast. Locker light is almost constantly flashing. How much did your cooler cost, was it nuts?

I will likely just run a Mag-Hytec and run some kind of steel skid under it. I feel like I'll smack it into a rock.

[RustyPW]

Mine get hot enough not towing that I will be looking into an aluminum cover. Unless Rusty reports back on his diff gear oil pump and cooler.

My set-up is for track car. To use on the PW. You would need to find a safe place for it. So that the cooler doesn't get hit with rocks. And you would need oil lines that flexed more then the braided stainless lines. I'm not able to install my parts until I heal. So that is looking like the end of Oct maybe.

m

Rusty I would mount the cooler to the axle with some protection. Definitely needs to be a safe setup. Could run braided stainless lines up to the frame though, the factory does the same thing with its brake lines. My rear diff needs cooling fast. Locker light is almost constantly flashing. How much did your cooler cost, was it nuts?

I will likely just run a Mag-Hytec and run some kind of steel skid under it. I feel like I'll smack it into a rock.

My set-up came from MA Motorsports in Md. List is close to $1,000 for everything. But I got mine at a raffle at ZDayZ sports car meet at Deals Gap NC. The ticket cost me one buck. The braided stainless lines are -8 AN (1/2"). There is not much flex in that size line unless you make them long.

You can piece this together.
Pump - http://www.jegs.com/i/Tilton/454/40-527/10002/-1
Cooler - http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15500/10002/-1