Toyo MT 37x 12.5(D) vs 13.5(E)

[OffroadTreks]

You will probably have less rubbing then I do on the outside rear of the fender; however, I don't think you'll be able to turn lock to lock.

I have no rubbing on fenders lock to lock, haven't done a full stuff test yet. I was going to do that later. I have factory wheels and high clearance bumper so my fenders up front were already cut. I think at full lock the front might rub the sway bar a tad. Have to do some more testing.

[DamageWagon]

So now that Mike has the tires, I noticed his D ranges say "8 Ply Radial" instead of the 10 that my E's have, but both of our tires say.

Tread: 2 Nylon 3 Steel 2 Polyester

Sidewall: 3 Polyester

So I don't quite know how the plies are different. So far no road noise whatsoever from Mike's tires, but they're new so maybe they will break in. My 285/75R17 E ranges have been noisy, I thought since new. They're almost the only thing I hear from in the cab, but that being said they can keeps the noise down really well and it's very faint. You could hold a whisper conversation over the tires with the windows up. Maybe the 4.5 gens have even better insulation.

[zigsrig]

How bad is the rubbing on the bolt at the bottom of the radius arm?


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[laramieskibum]

quite a bit taller or optical illusion? Toyo says they are taller?...not just wider...substantially heaver too. I've read that they actually measure 14.5" wide and true 37" or just under, compared to the 37x12.5 measuring 36.5" and 12.5". Did you measure the width with a tape measure once mounted by chance or only mounted the 12.5"?

Really would like the added height but not at the expense of the width. Still want to fit chains and have some sort of turning ability....

My R/T's got loud but nothing bad. Also tow really well in heavy sidewind's but with a still weight distribution setup. Rotate every 5k or so. Getting cupping. I run 38psi on the front and 30psi on the rear, except when off road during hunting season for a few weeks at a time, then 30psi and 18psi until I hit the highway. Like the tires, but going MT next time for sure...12.5's are a bit of a unicorn but seems like 4wheeldrive always has them in stock somewhere.

FYI my 37x12.5 R/T's measure 35.5" tall top to bottom. Procal puts speedo dead on at around that height too.

[DamageWagon]

The 13.5 looked a touch taller next to the 12.5 but I figure that could just be the tread crown since it's so much wider. I measured the tires at 36" (or just a touch over) tall mounted on Mike's truck.

The 12.5's have 10.5" tread width. The 13.5's have a something around 14.4".

I was happily surprised by the 12.5's. I like tall skinny tires and wish that I could get a taller version of my 285/75. It seems that exactly what they did - the 285 measures 9.75" wide at the tread block vs the 10.5" on the 37's. The 37's also have 21/32" of tread.

[laramieskibum]

Agreed. Tall and skinny is where it is at.

FWIW I have no qualms towing my 8000lb trailer with the RTs. 3-4 times per month, 150miles per trip, at right angles to the prevailing wind. Went RT for fear of squirm of MT but I'm going MT soon. After ~30k ish on the RT the tread is getting low for mud conditions. This including swapping in a full size spare so take that with a grain of salt. I have had one rock puncture, middle of tire, aside from that no issues other than the normal cupping and growl of tires on a 8500lb truck...diesel crowd really raves about the MTs...

Curious if anyone can share info on structural differences of the 12.5vs13.5 also.


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[DamageWagon]

Ok, straight from the horses mouth. I'm getting a much more detailed email soon from them but I spoke directly with Toyo. From one of their Engineers:

- The D range and E range MT's have the same exact carcass. Same sidewall and tread construction throughout the range. The difference between load ranges is that the E ranges are designed to carry 80 psi, and between the higher pressure and the larger air chamber the carrying capacity of the tire enters the E range. I do not know what differences there are that allow 80psi vs 65psi, but I was told for sure the D ranges are not designed to be aired to 80psi.

- The 8 ply radial or 10 ply radial is actually irrelevant to the existing tire. It is a way to correlate the current tire against how strong it would be if it was a bias ply. Because the D range has a certain load capacity, it is equivalent to an "8 ply" and because the E had a higher capacity it is equivalent to a "10 ply".

I am waiting to hear in the email if the MT and RT have the same carcass as I have heard they do. I'll throw in any additional information if they provide more. I was also told that by redesigning existing tires to hold 80psi vs the 50 or 65 they were initially made for, several of their existing tired are becoming F range tires. It wasn't specified which ones those were.

[laramieskibum]

Awesome! Thanks! (For the whole thread. Appreciated).


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[NickTF]

Damage, udaman

[Colibri]

Good information! Thank you sir

[OffroadTreks]

How bad is the rubbing on the bolt at the bottom of the radius arm?

Miles away from ever touching that thing. I wonder if that bolt is backwards on some year trucks, because you'd be rubbing springs before that bolt was ever an issue on my truck.

[TankerZak]

Ok, straight from the horses mouth. I'm getting a much more detailed email soon from them but I spoke directly with Toyo. From one of their Engineers:

- The D range and E range MT's have the same exact carcass. Same sidewall and tread construction throughout the range. The difference between load ranges is that the E ranges are designed to carry 80 psi, and between the higher pressure and the larger air chamber the carrying capacity of the tire enters the E range. I do not know what differences there are that allow 80psi vs 65psi, but I was told for sure the D ranges are not designed to be aired to 80psi.

- The 8 ply radial or 10 ply radial is actually irrelevant to the existing tire. It is a way to correlate the current tire against how strong it would be if it was a bias ply. Because the D range has a certain load capacity, it is equivalent to an "8 ply" and because the E had a higher capacity it is equivalent to a "10 ply".

I am waiting to hear in the email if the MT and RT have the same carcass as I have heard they do. I'll throw in any additional information if they provide more. I was also told that by redesigning existing tires to hold 80psi vs the 50 or 65 they were initially made for, several of their existing tired are becoming F range tires. It wasn't specified which ones those were.

My 35x12.5R17 Toyo RTs are 65PSI rated load range E. Which i thought really complimented the PW well in both side, carcass, construction, AND PSI rating that matches our TPMS configuration and settings.

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[Reloaderguy]

Ok, straight from the horses mouth. I'm getting a much more detailed email soon from them but I spoke directly with Toyo. From one of their Engineers:

- The D range and E range MT's have the same exact carcass. Same sidewall and tread construction throughout the range. The difference between load ranges is that the E ranges are designed to carry 80 psi, and between the higher pressure and the larger air chamber the carrying capacity of the tire enters the E range. I do not know what differences there are that allow 80psi vs 65psi, but I was told for sure the D ranges are not designed to be aired to 80psi.

- The 8 ply radial or 10 ply radial is actually irrelevant to the existing tire. It is a way to correlate the current tire against how strong it would be if it was a bias ply. Because the D range has a certain load capacity, it is equivalent to an "8 ply" and because the E had a higher capacity it is equivalent to a "10 ply".

I am waiting to hear in the email if the MT and RT have the same carcass as I have heard they do. I'll throw in any additional information if they provide more. I was also told that by redesigning existing tires to hold 80psi vs the 50 or 65 they were initially made for, several of their existing tired are becoming F range tires. It wasn't specified which ones those were.

Interesting. I was always under the impression the carcass was different. Curious to know the difference between the RT and MT, I wouldn't say my RT's are stiff by any means.

[Reloaderguy]

You will probably have less rubbing then I do on the outside rear of the fender; however, I don't think you'll be able to turn lock to lock.

I have no rubbing on fenders lock to lock, haven't done a full stuff test yet. I was going to do that later. I have factory wheels and high clearance bumper so my fenders up front were already cut. I think at full lock the front might rub the sway bar a tad. Have to do some more testing.

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You're going to rub the bottom of the fender flair and the inner fender tunnel over the pinch weld. There is more clearance turned full lock then there is turning partial lock. RA trucks have more clearance at the RA than older trucks with 5 link, the rubbing is at the inner fender, flair, pinch weld, and sway bar (stock wheels only). A Thuren swaybar will give you more clearance at the swaybar.

[Laramiewagon14]

mikekey have you had a chance to stuff those monsters and see about the clearance yet?