Power Wagon Registry

Wow--I stepped out for a few months, and look at the ensuing shit show. After reading the first few pages, I ran to CVS to get their mega gallon-size can of b-hurt jelly.

adeluca73 wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:15 pm

Wow--I stepped out for a few months, and look at the ensuing shit show. After reading the first few pages, I ran to CVS to get their mega gallon-size can of b-hurt jelly.

If this is all it takes you dare not go near the Raptor Forums

FordyceCreekTrail wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:28 pm

adeluca73 wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 03, 2017 3:15 pm

Wow--I stepped out for a few months, and look at the ensuing shit show. After reading the first few pages, I ran to CVS to get their mega gallon-size can of b-hurt jelly.

If this is all it takes you dare not go near the Raptor Forums

Uh, ok. Don’t think you’re picking up what I’m laying down.

The Raptors forums regular run the entire CVS Pharmacy chain out of b-hurt jelly.

Here is a video explaining why their spacer lift is far superior to new springs...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u-BLepaShs


One thing I noticed is how much he points out that there are all sorts of different springs for all the different configurations of trucks, and how they want to keep all that technology in place so the truck can still do exactly what it was designed for from the factory... yet when it comes to the power wagon, they do exactly the opposite of that.

So AEV's actual position on this subject is .... ???

Aftermarket coils aren't better, they're worse because they aren't' magically tuned for the application. Or that you can't design a one size fits all applications?

I'd love btw if someone found the parts list for all 40 variations of the front coils and the 18 variations on the rear. I don't doubt it, but seems fantastical. Would love to know the actual specs on those variations. So we could gauge for ourselves how much of this is the truth, and how much is hyperbolic marketing nonsense.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 14, 2017 2:25 pm

One thing I noticed is how much he points out that there are all sorts of different springs for all the different configurations of trucks, and how they want to keep all that technology in place so the truck can still do exactly what it was designed for from the factory... yet when it comes to the power wagon, they do exactly the opposite of that.

That has me scratching my head too.... They say that the springs they recommend will be just as good and give you greater performance. But my first-hand observations where that a Power Wagon with their kit and shocks didn't flex the same as a stock PW.

That kit is designed for regular 2500 and 3500. Not the PW pre say. The PW is an afterthought because the parts fit.

RustyPW wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:34 pm

That kit is designed for regular 2500 and 3500. Not the PW pre say. The PW is an afterthought because the parts fit.

Exactly. Kinda. I honestly think AEV thinks regular 2500 springs are better, that is why they recommend using the other springs. Maybe if you tow heavily or have a diesel...

Otherwise, they could relatively easily make some more American made spacers that were, say, 1.5" or 2" thick up front (instead of the 3"), and maybe 3/4" or 1" out back... and then let us retain the factory springs. Most of the other stuff from the kit would probably still work as it would essentially be the same height.

Except 40's don't just fit with a 3" AEV lift. Nice try Dave.

Oh, and that stock'ish steering gear is the same 20k mile service life junk that came on the trucks OE.

But then they sell converted Power Wagons if it's an afterthought? I mean we had a guy come out to PWIM with an AEV Power Wagon...

We are a niche group. I think we can all agree that there are MANY MORE reg Ram 2500/3500's & CTD 2500/3500's sold than there are Power Wagons. Majority seems to get the aftermarket stuff first. We are an afterthought. There have been a few people that mixed & matched all different parts & ended up with a PW that has absolutely KILLER flex. But 37's seem to be about it. There are exceptions but most are not willing to spend the coin needed to properly run & flex 40's.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 14, 2017 9:31 pm

Oh, and that stock'ish steering gear is the same 20k mile service life junk that came on the trucks OE.

Stockish steering gear? They dont even touch that, do they?

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 14, 2017 9:31 pm

But then they sell converted Power Wagons if it's an afterthought? I mean we had a guy come out to PWIM with an AEV Power Wagon...

I honestly think they believe the Power Wagon springs are no good for the truck. I asked them long ago (before I even owned a Power Wagon) why I couldnt use their kit yet still retain the stock PW springs. Their reply was something along the lines of "Why would you want a truck so tall? Why would you want a truck so tall with soft springs? Why would you want a truck with such soft springs that you couldnt use the truck as a truck?" Their other issue with using the PW springs was, with their kit, they allow 1 more inch of uptravel compared to the factory setup (truck goes up 3", but only a 2" bumpstop extension is added), and they apparently know that the 40 something other springs could handle that without coil bind occurring... but hadnt tested a PW spring to know if those could handle it

The the RAM Truck AEV kit is an adventure themed vehicle package, the lift is engineered to that purpose, larger tires support that theme, and they do have some cool stuff the snorkel, bumper, wheels, etc. appear to be well made.

If you want a true performance suspension you need to find that through other vendors Carli, Thuren, Pure Performance, etc. At least to me it seems fairly straight forward not quite sure what all the controversy is about.

If AEV tried to make a kit that was the best at everything it would have such a high cost aimed what is a small market segment it would never be profitable.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 15, 2017 11:23 am

... so how is it I would have less up travel again?

Just trying to understand ...

I dont know if that questions was toward me or if it was just a general question for the thread.

You do not have less uptravel with your setup... unless you added taller bump-stops. Thurens springs handle the factory bump-stop height. So, if you gained 1.5" in height over the factory PW height, you gained 1.5" in uptravel compared to the factory setup.

Now, the AEV setup... that has added bump-stops. But, the factory springs are actually compressed 1" more than the original factory setup (truck is raised 3", but the bump-stop is not dropped that far). So they technically gain 1" of uptravel through the suspension cycle.

That is the way I understand it anyway.

coder wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:50 pm

If you want a true performance suspension you need to find that through other vendors Carli, Thuren, Pure Performance, etc. At least to me it seems fairly straight forward not quite sure what all the controversy is about.

Exactly. That is exactly how I feel about it.

AEV has absolutely outdone any other manufacturer at physically lifting the vehicle while utilizing basically all of the factory suspension components (aside from the shocks). And they addressed steering angles as well, along with moving the front axle forward. No other spacer lift compares. But yes, it is a far cry from an upgraded/performance suspension in my mind.

For someone who wants to fit bigger tires on their truck, yet have all the capabilities of the original factory setup, you cant beat the AEV dual sport kit.

Most are pretty single minded thinking when it comes to a Power Wagon. I can't tell you how many times other campers have said to me "if your gonna tow-why on earth would you buy a Power Wagon?" It has "way less towing capacity." My simple answer was always: "does your truck have full skidplating, a 1.5" lift, 33" tires on forged aluminum Alcoa rims, front & rear lockers, disconnecting front swaybar for awesome articulation & a 12,000 lb WARN winch ?"---THAT is why i got a Power Wagon, because it has all those things already- & for around $350 & 2 hrs in the driveway-it tows as good as yours !!! From the factory, yes & I know you can never legally increase the factory numbers, but you can certainly make it able to handle the "rated factory numbers" MUCH BETTER & SAFER. By just adding 4 leaf-1 ton helper springs on mine, it was able to tow it's max factory 10,500 lbs about 1000% better & safer.

Yes, I also agree, that AEV certainly has it's place. If you absolutely need a CTD, use that truck to it's rated capacity & want bigger tires, a lift that retains as MUCH factory stuff as possible (read still covered under warranty), then they are the go-to people. I just wish I was able to afford one myself. Never gonna happen unless I win the lottery that I don't play !

Howdy, just out of curiosity... How much effect on articulation does the 4 leaf-1 ton helper springs have? I currently tow a max of 7700 LBs but with gear and stuff in the truck I'm probably pushing the weight limit a bit. The helper springs would be a great addition if they don't hose the off road capability much.

Thanks!

HammerTime wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:48 am

Howdy, just out of curiosity... How much effect on articulation does the 4 leaf-1 ton helper springs have? I currently tow a max of 7700 LBs but with gear and stuff in the truck I'm probably pushing the weight limit a bit. The helper springs would be a great addition if they don't hose the off road capability much.

Thanks!

???? Looked under your truck yet? There are no leaf springs on the ‘14+ trucks.

I would consider air bags before I swapped to normal 2500 coil springs.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2017 6:23 am

HammerTime wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:48 am

Howdy, just out of curiosity... How much effect on articulation does the 4 leaf-1 ton helper springs have? I currently tow a max of 7700 LBs but with gear and stuff in the truck I'm probably pushing the weight limit a bit. The helper springs would be a great addition if they don't hose the off road capability much.

Thanks!

???? Looked under your truck yet? There are no leaf springs on the ‘14+ trucks.

I would consider air bags before I swapped to normal 2500 coil springs.

HammerTime has a 2013 - they still had leaves

HammerTime wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 21, 2017 1:48 am

Howdy, just out of curiosity... How much effect on articulation does the 4 leaf-1 ton helper springs have? I currently tow a max of 7700 LBs but with gear and stuff in the truck I'm probably pushing the weight limit a bit. The helper springs would be a great addition if they don't hose the off road capability much.

Thanks!

I lose about 4" I think. Those leafs are on top of the stock leafs.. If I need full flex, I can just remove the outer most u-bolts in 10 minutes or less, with a battery impact wrench. Tires still stuff into the fenderwells, just not as far as stock.

I will say this. My trailer is around 8000-8500 lbs. I previously towed with a 11 duramax and now a 16 PW Laramie. I've done a few things to help towing and think I've really unlocked the code. I tried Timbrens. Bad idea for a part time help and you loose your flex. What i consider best towing options. DOR Steering brace, Airlift Ultimate Airbags w/ Daystar Cradles, E rated tires (I did Toyo RT 35s).

It really levels everything out and removes all wiggle. Steering brace REALLY helped. I get the best of all worlds. Full offroad capability and with a little air it tows really well.

Now can the 6.4 tow like a CTD or a Duramax? No. Does it do just fine? Yes! I could pass semi trucks doing 80 pulling up the continental divide with a diesel. Is that safe or smart? Probably not. I can run normal safe speeds and pass with a little more care. And i don't forget the trailer is behind me. None of that is bad. If i was towing 10k I'd get a CTD. Or if i was towing weekly.

But i get to tow my trailer 10 times a year, unhook, air down the tires and airbags, and have a really capable truck. Then i can air up, hook up, and go home.

The first time i towed it was scary and only 40 miles. Hitch was at the wrong height, D rated tires, no airbags or Timberns. To tow up to max with this truck you need to lock it in. WD hitch, right tires, and something to help the linear rate coils. YMMV.

My method does vary. I tried air bags, back in 2000 on our Dakota. They were good for 1 yr. Then they leaked. Fixed them. Good for 8 mos. They leaked again. Fixed them. Good for 8 mos, then they leaked again & left me stranded with a load while on vacation. Bought a tiny 12v air pump & put air in them every 20 min, all the way home from the Adirondacks. Not fun. I was DONE with air bags after that.

I think it was the design. Air hose went in from the top. Water/dirt/sand would set on the fitting & get into the hose fitting, freeze-thaw, freeze-thaw, freeze-thaw, all winter long. Eventually causing a leak. The new designs have the hose go in horizontally-into a 90* fitting, so no water can sit, set up & freeze. Better design.

Also with the internal jounce bump stop they aren't supposed to rupture if the air gets too low... so i run them at 0 PSI.

Here is what hard use does to an AEV lifted truck with 42's. There's a reason Thuren and Carli sell truss kits and long arm kits usually include eccentric deletes.

https://youtu.be/C3ZsPa_cyng?t=324

Oh you didn't here, that's because they chose to mix Carli parts with AEV parts. (claims random fanboys on FB)

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On a serious note, this lead me to watching more of the series and somehow I ended up back on part 3 and that is not the first time they were having issues with the drive line coming apart.