Diff fluid change? Rookie help.

RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 5:18 pm

Rodeoflyer wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 01, 2018 3:43 pm
It’s an LSD but a helical style, not clutchpack style so the additive isn’t necessary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2X

DiazOsos · Post by **DiazOsos** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 8:38 pm

Great thread, it has answered a ton of questions I had too. Do y’all use anything in particular to clean out the interior of the diffs and magnets or just wipe them clean?

RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:04 pm

DiazOsos wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 01, 2018 8:38 pm
Great thread, it has answered a ton of questions I had too. Do y’all use anything in particular to clean out the interior of the diffs and magnets or just wipe them clean?

Once drained. I use a lint free rag and wipe out the inside. Then use a Q-tip to clean the magnets on the left bearing cap.

Rodeoflyer · Post by **Rodeoflyer** » Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:09 pm

Personally I’d never use anything to ‘clean’ the inside. Thats what diff fluid is for. If it’s dirty change it. If it’s still dirty change it again.

There’s no filter so you wouldn’t want to introduce any foreign particulate.

I don’t see a problem with the q-tip cleaning of the magnet. I’ve never needed to but it may help.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lockedup · Post by **Lockedup** » Fri Nov 02, 2018 3:43 pm

Rodeoflyer wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 01, 2018 3:43 pm
It’s an LSD but a helical style, not clutchpack style so the additive isn’t necessary.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Fri Nov 02, 2018 9:28 pm

Rodeoflyer wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:09 pm
Personally I’d never use anything to ‘clean’ the inside. Thats what diff fluid is for. If it’s dirty change it. If it’s still dirty change it again.

There’s no filter so you wouldn’t want to introduce any foreign particulate.

I don’t see a problem with the q-tip cleaning of the magnet. I’ve never needed to but it may help.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anytime you recover a cover. You take a chance on introduce foreign particulate. You want to make sure that there is nothing in there when you put the cover back on. That's the important part.

You will be surprised whats on a white lint free rag when you wipe the insides. Changing lube WON'T get it out.

There is a ton of crap on the magnets.

RideLong · Post by **RideLong** » Mon Nov 05, 2018 2:01 pm

My diff guard required a bit of grinding to get it to fit without leakage. Still messing with it actually....still not perfect. 2012 PW

Rodeoflyer · Post by **Rodeoflyer** » Tue Nov 06, 2018 11:27 am

RustyPW wrote:
Rodeoflyer wrote: ↑
Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:09 pm
Personally I’d never use anything to ‘clean’ the inside. Thats what diff fluid is for. If it’s dirty change it. If it’s still dirty change it again.

There’s no filter so you wouldn’t want to introduce any foreign particulate.

I don’t see a problem with the q-tip cleaning of the magnet. I’ve never needed to but it may help.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Anytime you recover a cover. You take a chance on introduce foreign particulate. You want to make sure that there is nothing in there when you put the cover back on. That's the important part.

You will be surprised whats on a white lint free rag when you wipe the insides. Changing lube WON'T get it out.

There is a ton of crap on the magnets.

Mines never really built up much on the locker magnet. I run my finger but it’s never enough to bother with. I have an aftermarket cover with a strong magnet and have changed my diff fluid at (initially 5k miles) with Amsoil severe gear and then every 20k. This is the residue on the cover magnet at 80k miles total on the truck. Fortunately the rear diff broke in nicely.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Power Wagon Registry