Jerky Steering

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MOPARManiac
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Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Sat Mar 25, 2017 11:19 pm

My PW has developed an issue. At slow speeds turning on asphalt the steering wheel is jerky while turning both left and right. I really notice it while coming out of the turn. It has a new steering dampener so that shouldn't be the issue unless it was a defective one from the factory. I am starting to wonder if it could be the power steering pump acting up. I am going to check it out better tomorrow, but thought I see if anyone else has had the issue?
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by TwinStick » Sun Mar 26, 2017 12:06 am

Could be front axle u-joints. Mine went out at 18,000 miles, almost zero off-roading, the factory ones have crappy rubber seals, the aftermarket Spicer/Dana ones have a triple lip seal.
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Sun Mar 26, 2017 12:18 am

I'll look at those, thanks. I have 50,000 on my 2010. The damn thing broke down just sitting in the shop. I hadn't driven it for around a month and it was driving fine the last time I used it, pulled it out the shop onto the street and the jerky steering was the first thing I notice. It almost feels like the tires are really grabbing like when your in 4 wheel drive on hard top, just not that bad. Front axle u-joints make sense. I might have to use my lifetime max-care warranty for the first time in the 5 years I've had it if that is the case.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by 04Ram2500Hemi » Sun Mar 26, 2017 12:22 am

MOPARManiac wrote:I'll look at those, thanks. I have 50,000 on my 2010. The damn thing broke down just sitting in the shop. I hadn't driven it for around a month and it was driving fine the last time I used it, pulled it out the shop onto the street and the jerky steering was the first thing I notice. It almost feels like the tires are really grabbing like when your in 4 wheel drive on hard top, just not that bad. Front axle u-joints make sense. I might have to use my lifetime max-care warranty for the first time in the 5 years I've had it if that is the case.
I had the exact same sensation your describing in October last year. I ended up having both U-Joints replaced under warranty.
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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Sun Mar 26, 2017 2:58 pm

Thanks for the tips, it's appreciated. Saved me some time because I went right to where the problem is.

I'm pretty sure it's the axle u-joints. I jacked the front end up and with the wheels turned to the left or right the right wheel binds up and doesn't want to turn. It takes a lot of effort to break it loose and after one turn the wheel binds up again. My other thought at first was the steering box, but with the way right wheel is binding up it has to be the axle u-joint.

I like to do my own diagnosis before even taking into the dealer. Our Durango has the lifetime powertrain warranty and they said that I would get charged the hourly rate for diagnosis on top of the $100 deductible. I think that is B.S. if the broken part falls under warranty the diagnosis should be included. I am going to speak to them about that as my contract is bumper to bumper lifetime warranty and says nothing about diagnosis fees, only that it is a $100 deductible.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by jswider » Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:48 pm

Had my drivers side front axle u joint fail on mine at 30k miles. Same symptoms. Not that hard to fix your self if you have a press and a BFH.....and a day to work on it.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by gtomike60 » Sun Mar 26, 2017 6:35 pm

Just noticed mine doing it this morning.
New joints in the near future
2012,2600 stall CircleD converter,MYoung locker bypass,Dynatrac bjs,Dynatrac no-spin kit w/Dynaloc hubs,Thuren 3" coils,trackbar,shackles and Kings(3"F-2.5"R) shocks,Thuren Alien arms,Synergy steering,Thuren/King steering stabilizer,Carli diff guard,White Knuckle sliders,Thuren bumper,37" Cooper STT Pros,Corsa exhaust

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Sun Mar 26, 2017 6:59 pm

Can the axles just be pulled on these, or does the diff cover have to be taken off to get access inside the diff to release the axles?
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by DamageWagon » Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:03 pm

You can just pull the axle shafts out. Brake caliper, rotor, wheel bearing, then shaft come out. Not a bad job and you can definitely do it yourself.


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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by DamageWagon » Sun Mar 26, 2017 7:03 pm

You do need a 43mm socket for the axle shaft nut in the wheel bearing.


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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by jswider » Sun Mar 26, 2017 8:39 pm

Hardest part is getting the wheel bearing out, especially if you have snowy winters. Mine was rusted in there good. Might be a good time to replace the hub if they are original.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by nts007 » Sun Mar 26, 2017 8:57 pm

Just be gentle when you slide the half shafts back in. You want to slide gently over the axle seal. That's in the diff and sucks to replace
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Sun Mar 26, 2017 11:09 pm

Thanks for the information. I looked at the price of some Spicer's and I can have it done cheaper by just paying the deductible to have it done by the dealer through warranty. Since I paid for the warranty, I should use it. The ball joints will probably be next....
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Wed Mar 29, 2017 3:43 pm

Grrrrr, I took my Power Wagon to the dealer this morning I just got the call that it is done. I am not very happy because they only changed the right side because they said the left side checked out okay. I asked them how would they know if the left side checks out okay because you would have to take the u-joint apart and physically check to make sure it is greased and not completely dry or going dry? It is probably failing and just not completely seized like the right one. After some back and forth and me explaining that I specifically stated I wanted both replaced under warranty, and explaining that paying a $100 deductible twice for a part like this is not acceptable the dealer said that it is a $200 part. I told him that is B.S. because I can buy the Spicer u-joints with a triple lip seal for $80 a piece and do the work myself and be money ahead than having to pay the deductible twice. I further explained that they should have called me if they were only going to change one side when I stated I wanted both changed. After all this the service manager agreed that if the other fails within a year then the deductible will be waived for the 2nd one.

I'm really wishing I would have just did the work myself and then I would have used higher quality parts. Live and learn........
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by waldo » Wed Mar 29, 2017 3:52 pm

That's the way warranty work is, like it or not. They're not going to change out a part that isn't bad (yet) just because you want them to. It would be the same with the unit bearings, ball joints, ect.
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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by DamageWagon » Wed Mar 29, 2017 4:03 pm

I understand their point. It is a warranty, and the second u joint may last another 5 years. It's a bearing, they don't really go until they go entirely. Same with unit bearings, if one goes the other may be good for another 70,000 miles. Paying anyone to work on your stuff is always asking to get bit in some way. If I had a free coverage warranty I still wouldn't let someone else touch my truck, but I might ask to get the parts from them for free. I'm also super picky about precision parts like bearings, and I wouldn't want some shop monkey install my u-joint bearings. Too easy to screw up, and in the case of a driveshaft can be extremely expensive to fix what breaks if one lets go.


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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:01 pm

I understand that is how the warranty work is, but when I inspected the left side I could visually see the dried grease around the bottom of the caps where the seal is supposed to prevent any seepage,leakage, grease escapage. It's only a matter of time before it is completely dry and seizes up like the right one. The only way to guarantee a U-joint is good is to physically take it apart and inspect it. There is no doubt in my mind that if I were to take it apart I will find that there is minimal grease and it is dry or soon to be dry. To me it's like replacing spark plugs. You don't only change one side of the engine, you change both.

I'm just more mad at myself for even taking it to the dealer. I should have just purchased some good aftermarket joints and did it myself. I grew up ranching, I have changed many a u-joint in my day and understand that when one fails the other isn't to far from failing as well.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Wed Mar 29, 2017 8:31 pm

I got it in writing that if the left side fails within a year they will waive the deductible. Knowing my luck it will fail in 13 months.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by nts007 » Wed Mar 29, 2017 11:01 pm

That's good you got it in writing. I was going to mention that. Best of luck though
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Wed Mar 29, 2017 11:54 pm

Thanks, yes I made sure it was in writing. They have the advantage as I have only put 4000 miles on my PW in the last year. I really should drive it more.....I've slowed down from a crash I was in 1 1/2 years ago and really need to get out more. Thinking about it tonight I guess I'm most unhappy about a part like that failing with only 50,000 on the Odometer. Between the axle u-joint and ball joints on our Powerwagons, you would think that better parts would be engineered and used. I'm kind of like Damagewagon and don't like others working on my stuff. I've had this warranty for 5 years and thought I should at least use it since I paid for it. Yeah, it's probably good for big items like engines and such, but the small stuff that I can repair myself will not be going to the stealership warranty or not.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by nts007 » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:17 am

I hate others working on my stuff too. It always seems worse than when I took it somewhere. On the flip side I did spicer front joints over 150k km ago. They are still solid.
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by TwinStick » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:52 am

Mine are still solid as well. Went in at 18k, now have 45k.
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by DamageWagon » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:52 am

If you see grease leaking out of it then that makes sense it will fail sorry bud, I must have missed that earlier. A nice dealer would have done both. A failed seal will become a failed bearing.

In terms of the quality of parts, I thought all the u-joints were made by Spicer? I know the axle joints are super heavy duty. The ball joints are just too small for the application. Over the weekend at the DTX meet several guys were complaining that their Carli ball joints were blown at 20,000 miles. I thought they were idiots - any truck running 4.0 shocks front and rear and holding 70mph through whoops is going to destroy front end parts. The point remains though that the BJs are only so large, and no matter what materials or treatments you use, they are just going to wear out when they are small.


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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by MOPARManiac » Thu Mar 30, 2017 7:58 am

Oh yeah, the left side will fail it is only a matter of time. After doing a bit of reading on it last night I can understand why the dealer didn't want to change it out. They have to save those warranty parts and send them in if requested. I suppose changing out a u-joint that hasn't completely failed would deny the dealership payment if the part was inspected. I suppose the chance of having a u-joint being inspected from warranty work is slim to none, but who knows? I think the 1 year waiver was fair, and that is why I accepted (not like I had any choice for anything else).

It is my understanding that Spicer makes the majority of U-joints as well. I think it comes down to seal type and Chrysler is probably running the cheapest ones that cost $200 according to the dealer. :shock: Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Someone here explained the ball joint situation to me. I referenced my old 79 Ramcharger with a Dana 44 axle and I had to change out the left ball joints a couple years ago from original and the right side still has the original ball joints. That is excellent from the miles/years/wear & tear. I guess the Dana 44 the joints are straight up and down which leads to greater strength and longevity of the ball joints. These AAM axles the ball joints are more at an angle which stresses them and leads to more failure. To me that is an engineering issue and something that could probably have been fixed before even releasing an inferior part. I would like to know AAM's take on it.
2010 Power Wagon in Bright Silver Metalic, Sun Roof, Power sliding rear window, Nav, Luverne Grill Guard. Cooper S/T Maxx tires, DeeZee toolbox w/ Hi Lift Jack, two Jerry Cans/Mounts, Armacoating bedliner, Carli front diff guard. White Knuckle Off Road Sliders.

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Re: Jerky Steering

Post by TwinStick » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:15 pm

It may have been me. Years ago, both ball joints were on the same axis as each other and shared the load equally. Most all manufs have since changed that, so all the weight, of the truck & whatever load is on the truck, is only carried by the bottom ball joint. And to exacerbate that problem, the factory ball joints have a plastic/nylon cup that the metal ball sits in, so in all actuality, all the weight is also on that plastic/nylon cup. Some have failed in as little as 1800-4500 miles. Quad4x4---which is now Torque King 4x4 had an entire page about this. Thats where I learned it from. That guarantees future revenue for the company for the life of the truck-----unless you switch to Carli, Dynatrac or other high quality ball joints that don't have the plastic/nylon cup.

http://www.quad4x4.com/catalog/

https://www.google.com/search?q=stock+d ... 40&bih=791
In WNY State. 2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls an 18' 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????

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