Synthetic winch line fairlead?

[Easttnrhino]

I am looking at changing my factory winch over to synthetic line, those of you who have, what about your fairlead. The aluminum hawse leads do not look like they will bolt up to the factory roller spot. Thanks

[TwinStick]

There are only about 2 options. a) remove stock fairlead rollers & sand them to make sure there are zero burrs on them---a burr will damage your line. b) have some custom made somewhere from delrin or some type of hard plastic that can take the weight.

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KU70054B ... r+fairlead

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KU70054R ... r+fairlead

https://www.google.com/search?q=delrin+ ... 40&bih=791

Only other option is a new bumper with a hawse fairlead.

I'm still rockin my wire cable.

[CombatWombat]

Thats what i made.....



You can go fast.
I can go anywhere.
Dodge Powerwagon

[Bill2014]

I am looking at changing my factory winch over to synthetic line, those of you who have, what about your fairlead. The aluminum hawse leads do not look like they will bolt up to the factory roller spot. Thanks

Is your steel line damaged?

[DamageWagon]

Mail me your steel line when you do the swap!


Sent from my safe space

[Easttnrhino]

Wow that hawse lead is cool did you machine that out?looks like it bolts in where rollers were. What rope did you use? And I am going to keep my cable but thanks.

[Easttnrhino]

No steel line not damaged just have rope on my utv and I know it would be lighter.

[Bill2014]

No steel line not damaged just have rope on my utv and I know it would be lighter.

Heavier Power Wagons with the steel line are less likely to slide while winching! lol

Unless you are trying to move yourself

[Easttnrhino]

No doubt. Combat wombat is that a machined piece on each end or angle or welded, it looks good and I like the fact it moves the fairlend/ hawse out some.

[RAM4ROKS]

The roller fairlead is fine for synthetic as long as you are replacing with 7/16" synthetic. (Some people have noted that 3/8" synthetic can get caught between the rollers) As long as the rollers have been completely smoothed so that they don't have any burrs from running wire, synthetic and rollers are a fine combo! Assuming the line choice is sized correctly not to her pinched by the rollers, the only reasons to run a Hawse with synthetic is to save weight compared to a roller fairlead, to save some space by comparison (Hawse is more compact), and in some cases to save some $$$. (though most Hawse are so bling anymore that they cost more than roller!)

[CombatWombat]

Just 2 Aluminum Parts on the left and right Side.
Bolts in the Holes from the original Rollers.
Then i layed the Fairlead on it and marked the two Holes.
Drilled Holes and Threads in the Blocks and bolted the Fairlead in.
With 2 Beers its a 1Hour do it yourself Job....
Fairlead from ebay was about 20Bucks i think....
Aluminum was from my Scrapbox...
6Bolts....
2Beers..
Not that expensive and very rigid and easy.

You can go fast.
I can go anywhere.
Dodge Powerwagon

[SeahawkDriver]

I'm going to keep my front winch factory, something old-school about me enjoys the durability of the wire rope, although i would like a different front hook. I have a Super-winch 12.5K on a portable Class III receiver-hitch cradle that I keep in my garadge. I built it so I can simply place it on any vehicle with a rear receiver hitch and instantly have winching power. Going camping? No problem stick the winch on. Somebody stuck and you don't want to try and get to them? No problem bring the winch to the vehicle and hook it up. Just have it wired to a set of old Zero-gauge jumper cables I had laying around and run it directly to the vehicle's battery post, bingo, done. The only problem with a portable winch of that size is the weight. Carrying 80+ pounds through mud, by hand, to a stuck vehicle is no fun. So going to change the portable rig to synthetic purely for weight savings and run it on the back of my Wagon if I know I'm going to encounter some serious off-road. Only down-side is that the tail-gate only goes about 80% of the way down with the rear winch on. Departure angle is screwed. I guess I could strap it down inside the bed of the truck, but man the PW sure looks serious with winches front and rear.

[ramv]

I would avoid rope. My friends destroyed 5/16" and 3/8" Amsteel blue and Masterpull ropes with 9k winches on 5k lb vehicles. Very dangerous to have fail in a tough pull. One friend almost went over a cliff when the amsteel blue failed. Fortunately, we had steel cable hooked up as well. Bent my 1/2" steel bumper brackets when his vehicle fell against the cable but, better than the alternative.

An M15 will destroy rope it on this truck. 7/16" steel is stock.

I broke a lot of 5/16" steel on my 2nd gen, but the 3/8"s has been rock solid on the front 9.5 XP; the rear M6 does fine with 5/16"

On a SxS or snowmobile, I can see rope. On a heavy trail rig, you are dollars ahead and safer with steel.

[OffroadTreks]

I would avoid rope. My friends destroyed 5/16" and 3/8" Amsteel blue and Masterpull ropes with 9k winches on 5k lb vehicles. Very dangerous to have fail in a tough pull. One friend almost went over a cliff when the amsteel blue failed. Fortunately, we had steel cable hooked up as well. Bent my 1/2" steel bumper brackets when his vehicle fell against the cable but, better than the alternative.

An M15 will destroy rope it on this truck. 7/16" steel is stock.

I broke a lot of 5/16" steel on my 2nd gen, but the 3/8"s has been rock solid on the front 9.5 XP; the rear M6 does fine with 5/16"

On a SxS or snowmobile, I can see rope. On a heavy trail rig, you are dollars ahead and safer with steel.

Odd, we recovered a "Heavy Rig" in Moab recovery using a synthetic line with no damage. Sure you and your buddies know how to winch properly? I joke, but I just never have heard such things.

[Reloaderguy]

7/16" rope.

[BrillPW]

What rope is that and do you have it going to a Hawse or fairlead?