Kill-switch for electronic nannies

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Colibri
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Colibri » Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:16 am

Reloaderguy wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:51 am
Colibri wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 7:58 pm


I don’t envy you guys with the newer wagons when it comes to nannies. What a headache.
Umm, you can just pull the ABS fuse.
Then why not just use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX88271- ... B009APJ2UU
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by waldo » Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:22 am

Colibri wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 4:19 pm
One piece inner axle shaft solves all your problems
I checked on the CAD eliminator shaft for my 16 right after I bought it. Nobody was making the one piece passenger axle at that time. I haven't looked recently though.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by NickTF » Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:36 am

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:52 am
olyelr wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 4:01 pm
Ok, I tried it with just the sensor on the passenger side. It still dosnt work.

Oddly enough, though, I did find out that if I swing it into 4wd before the “check anti-lock braking system” light comes on right when the truck is started, the CAD will lock up. But if the light is on, then it wont lock up :sick:

But when that light is on from pulling the fuse, It will lock and unlock to your hearts content.
So, if it was on a toggle switch, you could flip the switch and do donuts in 2WD, or if you wanted no nannies off roading in 4WD, couldn't you engage the T-case first to lock the CAD and then flip the switch to disable nannies. And what about lockers and swaybar, will they work with the ABS light on? Back to the lab for more testing Beaker.:popcorn:
giphy.gif
This guy is the Nostradamus of this issue :rockon:

I suppose the next test is to drive the truck a few minutes or more, then put it in 4x4 for a few minutes or more, then unplug the wheel speed sensor to make certain the truck remains in 4x4 before going to the trouble of making the switch. Olyelr, what time this afternoon can we expect results? :rofl:

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Bill2014 » Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:54 am

NickTF wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:36 am
Retired BLM Rig wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:52 am
olyelr wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 4:01 pm
Ok, I tried it with just the sensor on the passenger side. It still dosnt work.

Oddly enough, though, I did find out that if I swing it into 4wd before the “check anti-lock braking system” light comes on right when the truck is started, the CAD will lock up. But if the light is on, then it wont lock up :sick:

But when that light is on from pulling the fuse, It will lock and unlock to your hearts content.
So, if it was on a toggle switch, you could flip the switch and do donuts in 2WD, or if you wanted no nannies off roading in 4WD, couldn't you engage the T-case first to lock the CAD and then flip the switch to disable nannies. And what about lockers and swaybar, will they work with the ABS light on? Back to the lab for more testing Beaker.:popcorn:
giphy.gif
This guy is the Nostradamus of this issue :rockon:

I suppose the next test is to drive the truck a few minutes or more, then put it in 4x4 for a few minutes or more, then unplug the wheel speed sensor to make certain the truck remains in 4x4 before going to the trouble of making the switch. Olyelr, what time this afternoon can we expect results? :rofl:
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:13 am

Colibri wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:16 am
Reloaderguy wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:51 am
Colibri wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 7:58 pm


I don’t envy you guys with the newer wagons when it comes to nannies. What a headache.
Umm, you can just pull the ABS fuse.
Then why not just use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Ox-BX88271- ... B009APJ2UU
Yeah, that's fairly simple solution. I would rather not cut the harness but it's probably the easiest.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Colibri » Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:26 am

You don’t cut the harness, that plugs directly in place of the fuse. The ends of the wires have fuse blades. It moves the fuse into the harness and the switch interrupts it whenever you want to disable the circuit. Directly plug and play with zero cutting
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by NickTF » Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:05 pm

Colibri wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:26 am
You don’t cut the harness, that plugs directly in place of the fuse. The ends of the wires have fuse blades. It moves the fuse into the harness and the switch interrupts it whenever you want to disable the circuit. Directly plug and play with zero cutting
The 40amp fuse is female, not male like that setup appears to be. Would need to find female blades and a longer setup if you want the switch in the cab like most of us do. Sure seems like it would work fine though.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Colibri » Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:35 pm

I was unaware they used 40 amp female, but I was thinking the concept more than that specific product. Female spade terminals should work just fine by the sound of it then. If there’s anybody in the Houston or center areas that wants to be my guinea pig I’ll gladly build a milspec harness
Central Texas and Houston area
2009 5.7 auto quadcab
Carli 3” coils deaver leafs 3” kings with 4 tube bypass rear and fr/rr hydro bumps
Howe steering pump and gear with hydraulic ram assist
Custom tube bumpers and white knuckle sliders
Creative fab trussed axle. rem polished and cryoed 5.13 gears with arb lockers fr/rr
Sharadon stage 2 545rfe with 3000 stall edge converter
Lots of other stuff lol

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by NickTF » Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:47 pm

Colibri wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 12:35 pm
I was unaware they used 40 amp female, but I was thinking the concept more than that specific product. Female spade terminals should work just fine by the sound of it then. If there’s anybody in the Houston or center areas that wants to be my guinea pig I’ll gladly build a milspec harness
If you find someone local feel free to build two and i'll be happy to take the second off your hands for a reasonable fee!

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Low_Sky » Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:13 pm

Pretty sure we've discussed the fuse interrupt before. The preferred way to do it would be to put the switch under the hood, or use a relay to go through the firewall to the cab with lower amps.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by NickTF » Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:30 pm

Low_Sky wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:13 pm
Pretty sure we've discussed the fuse interrupt before. The preferred way to do it would be to put the switch under the hood, or use a relay to go through the firewall to the cab with lower amps.
I apologize if this has been covered, what is the issue with having a 40amp fuse somewhere between the fuse box and firewall in one of those water proof fuse holders with a rubber cap and having the switch inside of the cab? I went back and looked at Reloader's pics again, i would presume the questionable reliability is a result of the connection at the fuse terminals being loose either where the wire interfaces the fuse terminal or where the terminals slide in to the 30 amp female spot, right? I'm wondering if the male port for the 40amp fuse would allow a better connection? Just thinking out loud.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:05 pm

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:52 am

So, if it was on a toggle switch, you could flip the switch and do donuts in 2WD, or if you wanted no nannies off roading in 4WD, couldn't you engage the T-case first to lock the CAD and then flip the switch to disable nannies. And what about lockers and swaybar, will they work with the ABS light on? Back to the lab for more testing Beaker.:popcorn:
giphy.gif
Hahahaha. Yes, that was my thoughts as well... if you want 4wd and no nannies, just make sure you put it in 4wd before you flip the switch.

I am not sure if the lockers work when it is disconnected or not. Would have to test that.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:07 pm

NickTF wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:36 am

........... I suppose the next test is to drive the truck a few minutes or more, then put it in 4x4 for a few minutes or more, then unplug the wheel speed sensor to make certain the truck remains in 4x4 before going to the trouble of making the switch. Olyelr, what time this afternoon can we expect results? :rofl:
Bahahahaha. :lol: Well, probably not anytime today. Kinda booked out at the moment.

We are flying out on Sunday for warm and sunny Florida, so hopefully before then!
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:12 pm

NickTF wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:30 pm
Low_Sky wrote:
Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:13 pm
Pretty sure we've discussed the fuse interrupt before. The preferred way to do it would be to put the switch under the hood, or use a relay to go through the firewall to the cab with lower amps.
I apologize if this has been covered, what is the issue with having a 40amp fuse somewhere between the fuse box and firewall in one of those water proof fuse holders with a rubber cap and having the switch inside of the cab? I went back and looked at Reloader's pics again, i would presume the questionable reliability is a result of the connection at the fuse terminals being loose either where the wire interfaces the fuse terminal or where the terminals slide in to the 30 amp female spot, right? I'm wondering if the male port for the 40amp fuse would allow a better connection? Just thinking out loud.
The 40 amp fuse for the ABS pump works, but I have been pulling the 30 amp fuse for the ABS/BSM ECU/Valves. That one works just as good... accomplishes the same thing. It is a 30 amp female fuse, so might not really make any different either way, although it is a smaller fuse so maybe finding one of those fancy things for it would be easier?
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by KevinABQ » Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:21 am

NickTF wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:06 pm
Sure there is a way around it, give me a damn button to press to rid myself of 100% of these foolish nannies. The sequence can even be made involved so the normal dope that hurts himself easily is unlikely to access the 100% off
Option.. It’s not complicated, give me the choice. Anything which does not is pure stupidity or short sighted. As one poster indicated the winch cable is likely far more dangerous than half assed throttle control restriction. I mean the Demon requires signing some form of release if that’s what it takes for common sense show me where to sign. Justifying stupidity is why we get more of it every day. Love my truck but having to pull a fuse, while extremely easy, is super stupid for a truck of this Nature period.
The guy who sold me my power wagon mentioned that something like 2/3rd of the guys they had sold a hellcat to had wrecked it in the first year. He really missed the viper school.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by NickTF » Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:33 am

KevinABQ wrote:
Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:21 am
NickTF wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:06 pm
Sure there is a way around it, give me a damn button to press to rid myself of 100% of these foolish nannies. The sequence can even be made involved so the normal dope that hurts himself easily is unlikely to access the 100% off
Option.. It’s not complicated, give me the choice. Anything which does not is pure stupidity or short sighted. As one poster indicated the winch cable is likely far more dangerous than half assed throttle control restriction. I mean the Demon requires signing some form of release if that’s what it takes for common sense show me where to sign. Justifying stupidity is why we get more of it every day. Love my truck but having to pull a fuse, while extremely easy, is super stupid for a truck of this Nature period.
The guy who sold me my power wagon mentioned that something like 2/3rd of the guys they had sold a hellcat to had wrecked it in the first year. He really missed the viper school.
700 horsepower will get you in trouble fast. I've driven my buddies 9 second camaro (9.85 138-139mph) and was like a cartoon when you hit the gas. I've always said there are so many motorcycle accidents because $10k isn't a ton of money for most people buying a car/bike and it gets you 9s easy now. Folks have little idea how fast that is thanks to watching Street Outlaws and believing mid to high 4 second 8th mile passes are the norm!!!!!!!!! Either way, i'm still not interested in a crap load of electronically imposed limitations whether in a power wagon or a factory hot rod.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri Feb 02, 2018 10:05 am

NickTF wrote:
Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:33 am
KevinABQ wrote:
Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:21 am
NickTF wrote:
Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:06 pm
Sure there is a way around it, give me a damn button to press to rid myself of 100% of these foolish nannies. The sequence can even be made involved so the normal dope that hurts himself easily is unlikely to access the 100% off
Option.. It’s not complicated, give me the choice. Anything which does not is pure stupidity or short sighted. As one poster indicated the winch cable is likely far more dangerous than half assed throttle control restriction. I mean the Demon requires signing some form of release if that’s what it takes for common sense show me where to sign. Justifying stupidity is why we get more of it every day. Love my truck but having to pull a fuse, while extremely easy, is super stupid for a truck of this Nature period.
The guy who sold me my power wagon mentioned that something like 2/3rd of the guys they had sold a hellcat to had wrecked it in the first year. He really missed the viper school.
700 horsepower will get you in trouble fast. I've driven my buddies 9 second camaro (9.85 138-139mph) and was like a cartoon when you hit the gas. I've always said there are so many motorcycle accidents because $10k isn't a ton of money for most people buying a car/bike and it gets you 9s easy now. Folks have little idea how fast that is thanks to watching Street Outlaws and believing mid to high 4 second 8th mile passes are the norm!!!!!!!!! Either way, i'm still not interested in a crap load of electronically imposed limitations whether in a power wagon or a factory hot rod.
I'm not disagreeing with you but I can get 700hp with a junkyard LS and an Ebay turbo kit. With the advent of consumer engine management systems and CNC production, horsepower just isn't expensive or complicated anymore. 9 second Camaros and Mustangs are becoming the norm...god help the pedestrians.

One of my customers bought a Demon, already has it sold for $125k, and the parts sitting in his shop to make his Hellcat a 1k HP. He spent less than $10K on the parts. This is the golden age of HP. We act like the 420hp in the new PW is boring but 15 years ago it took a gas guzzling 8L big block to make those numbers. The electronic nannies keep Joe Blow from destroying the transmission and killing himself in a blaze of glory. I'd love to turn them off but they serve purpose...kind of like for Hellcat buyers.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Rodeoflyer » Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:47 pm

You have to plant that 700hp on a good track to make those numbers which requires suspension modifications and ideal weight transfer. 9 second camaros and mustangs aren't the norm for most folks, just the ones promoting their businesses and making youtube videos.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:29 am

Suffice it to say that the internals of a J-Case fuse are really quite flimsy...

Hooligan - 1.jpg

...but not anymore!

Hooligan - 2.jpg

Are you ready Olyelr? There's a prototype heading your way soon, and just a tad over 2 years since you first posted this thread. Winter is just around the corner.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Sun Sep 30, 2018 10:02 am

:shock: 8-) :rockon: :cheers:

If I only knew what the heck was going on with that setup :lol:

So you unplug the factory fuse, plug the new setup in, and then the switch will basically shut off power to the ABS? Whats the second fuse for?

Its a damn good thing your prototypes come with directions with color photos lol.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Low_Sky » Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:46 am

olyelr wrote:Whats the second fuse for?
Because you still want that circuit fused when hooligan mode is off.

I’ve just been popping the hood and raiding the fuse box, but that looks really clean. Nice work!


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Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Low_Sky » Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:48 am


If you mean the little yellow one, that would be power in for the relay.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:47 pm

Low_Sky wrote:
Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:48 am
If you mean the little yellow one, that would be power in for the relay.
Initially I intended to power the relay with the ABS power and just switch the ground, but the ABS is hot all the time, even with the key off. If the grounding toggle switch was accidentally left on when the truck was parked, it would cause a drain on the battery, but now it will turn off with the key.

I thought I could use a J-case inline fuse holder, but the only one available comes with 8 ga. wire and it's just too big to fit inside of either connector

Jcase - 1.jpg
So I had to settle for an ATO fuse instead.
Again, this is just a prototype for testing purposes.

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:21 pm

My hang up was the frailty of the plug in fuse adapter. If you have a robust adapter I'd certainly take another look. With that said though, my warranty is up next year and I'll probably just cut the harness. Do like BLM does and switch the negative side of a naturally open relay with a keyed power source.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Sun Sep 30, 2018 5:50 pm

Reloaderguy wrote:
Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:21 pm
My hang up was the frailty of the plug in fuse adapter. If you have a robust adapter I'd certainly take another look. With that said though, my warranty is up next year and I'll probably just cut the harness. Do like BLM does and switch the negative side of a naturally open relay with a keyed power source.
It is robust. Very happy with how it came out.
No harness cutting necessary, this is all plug and play, with zero amperage occurring outside the protection of the fusebox/TIPM.
Last edited by Retired BLM Rig on Fri Oct 26, 2018 1:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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