Kill-switch for electronic nannies

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Wed Jan 11, 2017 1:17 pm

I have received an email about my vehicles health report. Apparently i need to pull over safety and have the vehicle towed to the dealer :lol:
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by vanished » Wed Jan 11, 2017 1:22 pm

Nice! :lol:

Big brother is watching you... :doh:

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by ggbull » Wed Jan 11, 2017 2:59 pm

I'm going to have to try making a hooligan switch. Im going to use f06 fuse. Not sure how im going to do it yet, but probably along the lines of what retired suggested. I had messed around looking for the stability control sensor and was going to modify that, switching/pulling the fuse seems like a better option.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:42 pm

Can someone id the negative wire to the ABS pump?
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Low_Sky » Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:48 pm

Oh yeah, these new trucks record everything. I'm sure I'll hear about it from the dealer next time mine is in for service. Not surprising that it's pinging the mothership if you have a live UConnect account.


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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by nts007 » Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:13 pm

This seems to go from intrusive to down right controlling. Next time the new trucks will just drive themselves back to dealer with you in it instead of an email.
Next will be defeating auto steer/auto drive
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by RustyPW » Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:53 pm

This is why I'm sticking with my 3G. :lol:
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by FirerescuePW » Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:19 pm

Amen!

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by ramv » Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:05 pm

Mine did email to let me know my tires were low, and my oil need to be changed.... Pretty sure the dash dings several times everyday for the same reason. :D

Wonder if I can get my second gen setup with uconnect. "Monthly maintenance report: Your vehicle is upside down on a waterfall."

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Low_Sky » Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:31 pm

I wonder if those email alerts are something you can opt out of. I never activated uconnect, doesn't sound like I'm missing much.


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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:35 pm

Low_Sky wrote:I wonder if those email alerts are something you can opt out of. I never activated uconnect, doesn't sound like I'm missing much.


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Yea, you can opt out... as you have.

And no, your not missing much.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:08 am

I think I'll be pulling the fuse until we can figure out switching the negative side of the ABS pump or interrupting the yawn sensor. I can't wrap my head around how a relay would correctly work with the native system on start up. Running 30A+ through an SPST switch seems like a bad idea also.

I poked around the yawn sensor and it set off all the dash warning lights which also convinced me this won't be as easy as a JK. Soooooooo, who has a set of wiring schematics?
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Thu Jan 12, 2017 1:33 pm

Reloaderguy wrote:... Running 30A+ through an SPST switch seems like a bad idea also.
This also seemed a bit unsafe to me as well.

I am horrible at wiring, but know enough to be (REAL) dangerous. So, by switching the negative wire for the pump, this should cut the system still and keep the power away from the switch, correct?
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by DamageWagon » Thu Jan 12, 2017 2:28 pm

olyelr wrote:
Reloaderguy wrote:... Running 30A+ through an SPST switch seems like a bad idea also.
This also seemed a bit unsafe to me as well.

I am horrible at wiring, but know enough to be (REAL) dangerous. So, by switching the negative wire for the pump, this should cut the system still and keep the power away from the switch, correct?
Correct, but only when the switch is open (off). When the switch is closed (normal driving) there is power running through it. It is fused for 30amps but I doubt it ever sees that much, and I would think that is a circuit that normally operates on low power and occasionally draws spikes, like when your brakes lock up. You could probably get away with an average SPST switch just fine. Buy a nice one maybe? You could buy a small rotary master switch, that works too.

To respond to Reloaderguy - good thinking on the solenoid wired into the ignition system. It would be a bit funny but you could wire a switch to a solenoid, both battery powered, that then controls a solenoid that is ignition powered for your "fun switch". Switch on the first switch before startup, then once engine is running you can leave it on or turn it off.

You could forego all that and have your fun switch and solenoid just be battery power instead of ignition power. That of course adds a constant trickle draw on the battery though.


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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:21 pm

See, there you go, talking all that gibberish stuff :lol:
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by adeluca73 » Thu Jan 12, 2017 10:34 pm

Run a 40A switched fuse to a 1x pole into your cab is asking for trouble. The constant current draw is assuredly much less, but I'd imagine peak draw at times when you're spinning & sliding would undoubtedly increase peak current 2-3x. I'd think just pulling the fuse would be easiest--think getting out and manually locking your hubs before going off road. Another option, the one I may try, is drill a hole in my fuse box, pull the fuse, solder on 8 or 10ga wire leads to the fuse prongs in the F06 empty spot, run a spliced inline 40A fuse (soldered & heat shrink) in the middle of the hot wire (maintained w/in the fuse box still) and then run both wires out of the fuse box, to a 3 position covered switch (the red nuke button type), and I'd also pull a line off the battery to the third switch pole, then mount the switch to an accessible, but protected spot in the engine compartment so the 40A line isn't coming into the cab, but pull that 3rd line off the 3rd pole and run it into the cab to a simple lighted indicator mounted in the truck so you'll know the status of the switch and the ABS system independent of the dash lights. With the switch in the OFF position, power is running through the fuse to the fuse box F06 connection, all systems GO--- flip switch ON, connection to the fuse is broken, ABS system is NOT working. Since power is interrupted to the circuit, the third line would then pass through to light up the indicator lamp you ran in the cab. I'd have to lay this all out to get the exact runs right, I'm laying in bed extemporaneously just thinking out loud.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Fri Jan 13, 2017 12:05 am

I agree, pulling the fuse is the easiest and safest. It doesn't require buying or modifying anything and you don't have to worry if you're cutting the right wire at the YAW sensor. Plus it doesn't void the warranty (except for those nagging emails from Ram).
Instead of plug and play, call it unplug and play. :lol:

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Fri Jan 13, 2017 5:36 am

:lol:


Excuse my wiring ignorance, but would this be a good place for a relay? Does one of those keep the larger power source away from the switch in the cab?

And yes i do agree with adeluca about just treating it like locking your hubs (except you have to pop the hood to do it). Honestly, the majority of the time i want all the systems off is when i am strickly off roading. Popping the hood and pulling a fuse aint a big deal to me for several hours or a day of wheeling. I guess where the switch would be super handy is when i just real briefly want to slide the truck sideways for a little fun (like leaving my cul de sac in the winter for example). Flip the switch, act like a hooligan real quick, then flip the switch back and continue on being neutered.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by vanished » Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:18 am

I'm wondering if those nagging emails are tied into their warranty database? I'm betting they are and they could void your warranty... I also wonder what else this could affect - torque management, shift points, calibration, etc... Personally I love it the idea but if you blew your trans out at 5400 RPM in the snow and the popped fuse back into place I could see them finding out easily...


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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Retired BLM Rig » Fri Jan 13, 2017 9:31 am

olyelr wrote::lol:


Excuse my wiring ignorance, but would this be a good place for a relay? Does one of those keep the larger power source away from the switch in the cab?

And yes i do agree with adeluca about just treating it like locking your hubs (except you have to pop the hood to do it). Honestly, the majority of the time i want all the systems off is when i am strickly off roading. Popping the hood and pulling a fuse aint a big deal to me for several hours or a day of wheeling. I guess where the switch would be super handy is when i just real briefly want to slide the truck sideways for a little fun (like leaving my cul de sac in the winter for example). Flip the switch, act like a hooligan real quick, then flip the switch back and continue on being neutered.
I'll just leave this here...
Hooligan Ver. 2.0.jpg
Hooligan Ver. 2.0
Have a good weekend! :patriot:

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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:38 am

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
I'll just leave this here...
Hooligan Ver. 2.0.jpg
Have a good weekend! :patriot:

You crack my ass up :lol:

If I only knew what the mumbojumbo meant! (but I am guessing that is a diagram of performing this using a relay?).
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by olyelr » Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:42 am

vanished wrote:I'm wondering if those nagging emails are tied into their warranty database? I'm betting they are and they could void your warranty... I also wonder what else this could affect - torque management, shift points, calibration, etc... Personally I love it the idea but if you blew your trans out at 5400 RPM in the snow and the popped fuse back into place I could see them finding out easily...


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Yes these thoughts have crossed my mind, too. But it really just depends on your comfort level... some people are scared to walk across the road in fear of getting hit by a car.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:45 am

Retired BLM Rig wrote:
olyelr wrote::lol:


Excuse my wiring ignorance, but would this be a good place for a relay? Does one of those keep the larger power source away from the switch in the cab?

And yes i do agree with adeluca about just treating it like locking your hubs (except you have to pop the hood to do it). Honestly, the majority of the time i want all the systems off is when i am strickly off roading. Popping the hood and pulling a fuse aint a big deal to me for several hours or a day of wheeling. I guess where the switch would be super handy is when i just real briefly want to slide the truck sideways for a little fun (like leaving my cul de sac in the winter for example). Flip the switch, act like a hooligan real quick, then flip the switch back and continue on being neutered.
I'll just leave this here...
Hooligan Ver. 2.0.jpg
Have a good weekend! :patriot:
That's what I was looking for. Jump the relay from the power source and switch the ground. I'm not sure I love plugging into the fuse port but could easily cut the positive wire under the fuse box. This would be less permanent though.

I already have all of the materials too.
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:49 am

Next question, where to get an extended fuse that plugs into F06 to test the system?
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Re: Kill-switch for electronic nannies

Post by adeluca73 » Fri Jan 13, 2017 5:28 pm

Reloaderguy wrote:Next question, where to get an extended fuse that plugs into F06 to test the system?
Radio Shack. It's where E.T. & The Coneheads shop.
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Completed Mods: Ram door sill guards, Front air deflector, WeatherTech slimline window deflectors, DiamondBack HD cover coated w/ Line-X, Mufflex MagnaFlow muffler & Resonator delete, Opti-Coat Pro 2.0, DeeZee tailgate strut, DeeZee ¼" fitted bed mat, Factor-55: FlatLink winch hook/Shorty Strap 3.0/Hitchlink 2.5, Warn Wireless Winch Remote, Locker by-pass, AEM dry filter, Truxedo LED bed lights wired into RamBox Connector, WhiteKnuckle sliders w/ full-length diamond plate coated in Line-X, Purple Cranium rear diff guard, AEV front/rear diff cover, AEV RAI w/ pre-filter, AEV ProCal (Bootleg'd), DOR Steering Box Brace, Phillips Hi intensity LEDs in cargo lamps & back-ups, triple anti-hop shocks, Truxx PW specific front 1.5" level, AAM 4.88's, custom black-out work, Line-X front/rear bumpers & wheel flares, 37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers, Plasti-dip PW wheels Black w/ Gunmetal metalizer, FilterMag kit, AMP Research BedStep
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