Kill-switch for electronic nannies

[Reloaderguy]

Send me your next prototype please.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Send me your next prototype please.

Can you do me a favor and measure this distance for me, so I know the harness is the right length? Also if you have a standard ISO relay handy, can you confirm that it fits in that area of the fusebox and that the lid is still able to close?

[Reloaderguy]

7". The relay I have handy has a waterproof end and doesn't fit. I'd rather mount it to the side of the fuse box since my box is notched anyway.

[olyelr]

I have my box notched at the front. Hopefully that is a workable spot. I suppose I can notch it again if that wont work.

There appears to be a little over an inch in depth inside the box, above the fuses.

[Retired BLM Rig]

7". The relay I have handy has a waterproof end and doesn't fit. I'd rather mount it to the side of the fuse box since my box is notched anyway.

Interrupting a 12 ga. 40 amp circuit requires using 40 amp rated components. Unfortunately no one makes a waterproof SPDT 40 amp normally closed relay that I could find. The relay I'm using meets all of the requirements for the circuit, but needs to stay inside the fusebox with the rest of it's buddies. The notch you cut in the fusebox will still be used for routing the ground wire to the dash switch.

Speaking of routing a wire through the firewall, can someone provide some pictures of the drivers side so I can see what it looks like for options? Looking for an existing rubber grommet or clutch master cylinder block off plate.

As far as a discrete switch mounting location and grounding under the dashboard, I'll have to leave that up to you guys to figure out, since I don't have a newer truck at my disposal and it really comes down to drivers preference or an already existing switch panel.

[Low_Sky]

7". The relay I have handy has a waterproof end and doesn't fit. I'd rather mount it to the side of the fuse box since my box is notched anyway.

Interrupting a 12 ga. 40 amp circuit requires using 40 amp rated components. Unfortunately no one makes a waterproof SPDT 40 amp normally closed relay that I could find. The relay I'm using meets all of the requirements for the circuit, but needs to stay inside the fusebox with the rest of it's buddies. The notch you cut in the fusebox will still be used for routing the ground wire to the dash switch.

Speaking of routing a wire through the firewall, can someone provide some pictures of the drivers side so I can see what it looks like for options? Looking for an existing rubber grommet or clutch master cylinder block off plate.

As far as a discrete switch mounting location and grounding under the dashboard, I'll have to leave that up to you guys to figure out, since I don't have a newer truck at my disposal and it really comes down to drivers preference or an already existing switch panel.

Clutch blanking plate is the way to go through the firewall. I’m away from my truck or I’d take pics.

Some folks go so far as to drill a hole in it and use a rubber boot or cable grip. I just ran my wires through the hole and bolted the plate back in. The inside surface is thin foam, so it seals up ok for just a couple wires.


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[Reloaderguy]

7". The relay I have handy has a waterproof end and doesn't fit. I'd rather mount it to the side of the fuse box since my box is notched anyway.

Interrupting a 12 ga. 40 amp circuit requires using 40 amp rated components. Unfortunately no one makes a waterproof SPDT 40 amp normally closed relay that I could find. The relay I'm using meets all of the requirements for the circuit, but needs to stay inside the fusebox with the rest of it's buddies. The notch you cut in the fusebox will still be used for routing the ground wire to the dash switch.

Speaking of routing a wire through the firewall, can someone provide some pictures of the drivers side so I can see what it looks like for options? Looking for an existing rubber grommet or clutch master cylinder block off plate.

As far as a discrete switch mounting location and grounding under the dashboard, I'll have to leave that up to you guys to figure out, since I don't have a newer truck at my disposal and it really comes down to drivers preference or an already existing switch panel.

I only have a 30A relay and is the reason I used the 30A fuse instead of the 40A.

[Retired BLM Rig]

There appears to be a little over an inch in depth inside the box, above the fuses.

Ok, the relay measures 1-1/8" square. Do you think it will fit between the rows of fuses and under the lid? Otherwise I'll have to rethink this whole project.

[Retired BLM Rig]

I only have a 30A relay and is the reason I used the 30A fuse instead of the 40A.

Good call.
I wonder if the guys on DTX that have spliced into the tan/red wire have used properly rated components, because that wire is the 40A circuit.

[olyelr]

There appears to be a little over an inch in depth inside the box, above the fuses.

Ok, the relay measures 1-1/8" square. Do you think it will fit between the rows of fuses and under the lid? Otherwise I'll have to rethink this whole project.

It will certainly be a tight fit. My truck is at the dealer getting a bunch of recalls done. I should have it back tomorrow, and I can try to measure a little more accurately. If I have to, I will just cut a 1 1/8" piece of wood and see if it fits in there.

[Retired BLM Rig]

10:4

A ball of putty or playdoh also works good for taking inside measurements.

[Reloaderguy]

I only have a 30A relay and is the reason I used the 30A fuse instead of the 40A.

Good call.
I wonder if the guys on DTX that have spliced into the tan/red wire have used properly rated components, because that wire is the 40A circuit.

They ran the hot wire through the firewall, I don't think I'd copy their work.

[NickTF]

I ended up installing a 50 amp switch in the cab tapped to the 40 amp abs fuse. When I fished the switch up with wires it touched the metal framing a few times and I can attest to how much amperage it is. I've got everything wrapped up heavily with electrical tape now but would like the piece of mind of getting that much current out of the cab in the future. Setup has worked flawlessly 100% of the time and is quite durable.

[olyelr]

Judging by the fuse imprint in my kids playdough, looks to be about 1 1/8” of room, maybe 1 3/16”.

[Retired BLM Rig]

Judging by the fuse imprint in my kids playdough, looks to be about 1 1/8” of room, maybe 1 3/16”.

It’s on its way to you, just give it a try and see how it fits.

[olyelr]

It’s on its way to you, just give it a try and see how it fits.

As always, thanks for all your time, effort and contributions!

[FordyceCreekTrail]

Just a late note on this thread. But I experienced wheel sensor communication problems due to a Procal issue. You can always get it in 4x4 in an emergency by shutting off the engine, placing it in 4x4 and re-starting. How ever 4 Low is out with no speed sensors.

[olyelr]

Just a late note on this thread. But I experienced wheel sensor communication problems due to a Procal issue. You can always get it in 4x4 in an emergency by shutting off the engine, placing it in 4x4 and re-starting. How ever 4 Low is out with no speed sensors.

Thats good to know.

Seems weird it will work like that. Also seems weird it doesnt work like that with 4lo. So you end up with 2lo then

[FordyceCreekTrail]

So I could have sworn it went into 4 Low a couple of times. But I mostly observed no 4 Low ANDDDDDDDDDDD Limp mode. I could not give any throttle, engine would just provide enough power to keep rolling. I rolled up an 8 foot ledge at 13,000' that was tense. I was stuck in a mud pit in 2wd when I tried the ignition trick. Thank god it worked.

[Retired BLM Rig]

This was all caused by the ProCal?
How did you rectify this problem?
Did limp mode/no throttle response disappear in 2wd, or did you drive home at 10mph?
Dude, you have had the worst luck with that ProCal!

[MJockey]

There is now a more $$$ option available from Z-Automotive.

https://zautomotive.com/product/tazer-ram/

It has some interesting features but I'm not crazy about having to leave it plug in to the OBD port to get them to work.

[olyelr]

There is now a more $$$ option available from Z-Automotive.

https://zautomotive.com/product/tazer-ram/

It has some interesting features but I'm not crazy about having to leave it plug in to the OBD port to get them to work.

Damn that looks pretty slick.

[FordyceCreekTrail]

Yes Procal caused the issue. Limp mode was only in 4 Low.

[olyelr]

There is now a more $$$ option available from Z-Automotive.

https://zautomotive.com/product/tazer-ram/

It has some interesting features but I'm not crazy about having to leave it plug in to the OBD port to get them to work.

I am amazed at what this little box can do. How the hell is that even possible.

Also, I see they have a NoEsp setup for a few cars for $50. I wonder if they are gonna make one for a RAM.

[olyelr]

Got Retired’s prototype installed. Everything was top notch as you would come to expect from an electrical wizard like himself. The only testing I have done is just flicking the switch and watching the lights on the dash come on. Will do more testing soon, I hope, to assure all is working correctly (some early fall snow would certainly help right about now).

One thing I am happy about, is that when you turn the switch back off everything goes back to normal without having to shut the truck off. (When I put a switch on the wire for the yaw sensor in my JK, I would have to turn the Jeep off and then restart it for everything to be back to normal.)

Stay tuned fellas!

And thank’s Retired BLM Rig, I think you have a good setup going here!