Kill-switch for electronic nannies

[Reloaderguy]

Maybe that's my Kitchen...


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Maybe I'm you and this is Fight Club?

[olyelr]

Looks like your in my kitchen.

Whatya got cookin?

A kill-switch for electronic nannies.

Well damn i almost guessed that!

Keep us updated...

[DamageWagon]

Do all three of you have the same counter?


Sent from my safe space

[Colibri]

Me too actually

[olyelr]

Do all three of you have the same counter?


Sent from my safe space

Going by memory, yeah its very close.

[Reloaderguy]

Well damn i almost guessed that!

Keep us updated...

I'm not actually going to use that switch. I bought it and then decided this is going to be much more stealth and warranty friendly. All of the wiring is complete, I had to use a little silicon to support a very small part in the fuse box so I'm just waiting for it to dry.

Have you ever noticed that if you only have one or two garage doors that you have an extra homelink button or two? How about a remote switch programmed to the Homelink that triggers a 30A NC relay that plugs into the OE fuse port. The whole setup installs with a positive and negative nut. The relay and remote switch are attached with velcro to the side of the fuse box and the entire setup removes in two minutes.

[Colibri]

That sir, is some James Bond shit right there

[olyelr]

Well damn i almost guessed that!

Keep us updated...

I'm not actually going to use that switch. I bought it and then decided this is going to be much more stealth and warranty friendly. All of the wiring is complete, I had to use a little silicon to support a very small part in the fuse box so I'm just waiting for it to dry.

Have you ever noticed that if you only have one or two garage doors that you have an extra homelink button or two? How about a remote switch programmed to the Homelink that triggers a 30A NC relay that plugs into the OE fuse port. The whole setup installs with a positive and negative nut. The relay and remote switch are attached with velcro to the side of the fuse box and the entire setup removes in two minutes.

Pics once she's dried.

[TwinStick]

That sir, is some James Bond shit right there

[Reloaderguy]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BQI3w3zAfZE/





The fuse plug is the weak link to the system. I think I did a pretty good job reinforcing it but still could be better. The best solution is to interrupt the wiring below the fuse box but I want to retain my warranty. The most reliable temporary solution is still to just pull the fuse. If my system fails I can just reinsert the OE fuse. Under the relay is a 30A fuse that replaces the fuse in the panel.

[Bill2014]

Very cool

[olyelr]

Thats so badass.

I wish i could do that kind of stuff!

[Reloaderguy]

Heat guns and soldering irons are very useful. Total cost of the parts was $50 including spare OE fuses.

[DamageWagon]

Very clean! You should put your IG video up here. I'm impressed at how well it works


Sent from my safe space

[olyelr]

No kidding. Here i am, willing to drill a hole and install a switch, still cant figure it out, and he frikin pulls it off using the factory installed garage door button.

James. James Bond.

[Reloaderguy]

It wasn't my idea, there is a huge thread on Ram Forum about how to use the Homelink buttons for auxiliary lights. The switch I bought is two channels so you could use two Homelink buttons to power anything you want. The switch was $20 and is cheap shit, I had to take it apart and glue in the circuit board because it was rattling around. Truth be told, this is not a bomber solution and I will probably not leave it in. It is functional but I question it's reliability. As I already said, the best solution is to either wire directly into the harness under the fuse box or just pull the fuse. It's also worth mentioning I used F26 because it is only a 30A fuse instead of 40A on the F06 fuse. The F26 fuse is proprietary and can only be purchased from the dealer, they are $5 each.

The more I think about this the more I think pulling the F26 fuse when you air down is best. You have to manually let air out anyway so it would take about a minute to open the hood and pull the fuse. Keep spare fuses in the Staun deflator case.

[yellowranger1]

That's a really neat trick @Reloaderguy

I've just been doing like you mentioned at the end of your post - pull fuse as I'm airing down and replace when I air up. Been working great the pst couple of trips! It's nice having brakes that work off road and not having power cut when you need some wheelspin


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[TankerZak]

So deflate, pull fuse... now we just need someone to make the locker bypass kit again. All i really want is rear locker in 4HI. Can't believe thats not possible....

[NickTF]

Good honest assessment there reloader thanks for sharing.

[Retired BLM Rig]

I snapped these pictures before I left work today. The newest schematic diagram I could find was for a 2015. It looks like the ABS ground wires are connection #G802A and it looks like it is located somewhere on the drivers side frame rail below the ABS unit or battery or fuse box.

Gee, I wonder what would happen if a guy interupted those ground wires? I wonder if a guy would have to push the start button twice to start the truck? I wonder if anything else shares that ground connection? I wonder if the ABS light would turn off by itself after it was reconnected?
Golly, if I only had a 15 or newer truck with a warranty, maybe I could figure it out.

Middle bottom of picture, two 12 Ga. black wires.

[olyelr]

I snapped these pictures before I left work today. The newest schematic diagram I could find was for a 2015. It looks like the ABS ground wires are connection #G802A and it looks like it is located somewhere on the drivers side frame rail below the ABS unit or battery or fuse box.

Gee, I wonder what would happen if a guy interupted those ground wires? I wonder if a guy would have to push the start button twice to start the truck? I wonder if anything else shares that ground connection? I wonder if the ABS light would turn off by itself after it was reconnected?
Golly, if I only had a 15 or newer truck with a warranty, maybe I could figure it out.

IMG_1014.jpg

IMG_1013.jpg

I like your thinking

You sir will have an email coming later tonight.

[Retired BLM Rig]

A 2016 CTD came in the shop yesterday and I had a brief moment to look at it. Not sure if it's the same location on the Hemi, left front outer frame rail, right above the sway bar end link.

I think this is the ABS ground.

[olyelr]

My wagon has one there too. Actually two on that same spot. The taped up wires go right up into the main wiring by the fuse box.

[HeavyDuty]

So has anyone tried disconnecting them? If not I will try this weekend

[NickTF]

Did anyone ever try interrupting the ground subject of the previous 5 or so posts?