Locker Bypass Issues 2015 - Help!

[NickTF]

I'm starting another thread because the other thread has grown a little long in the tooth and isn't getting views which is all good and expected. Long story short my locker bypass isn't working correctly and recent exchanges with Cajun have resulted in him agreeing to send another control box to me tuesday. During the meantime I want to see if there is anything I can check before receiving it. It appears my front locker stays on at all times no matter what the position of the bypass kit. So here is where I'm at:

I have installed the bypass and the lights, both in the bypass control box and the oem dash lights, all function as specified after adjustment. The green light illuminates on the R relay when selecting the rear lockup position with the factory knob and goes out when placing the knob back to unlocked. The green light illuminates on both the F and R relays when selecting the front and rear lockup position and both green lights go off when selecting unlocked with the knob. The oem dash lights function as described in the vendor section thread (rear only illuminates when selecting that light, rear only and front and rear lights both illuminate when selecting the front and rear lockup position. Unlocked light is only light illuminated when unlocked position is selected. Here are the problems:

-The rear axle does not lock up with either the rear only or front and rear lock position selected
-The front locker appears to be locked at all times whether I have the factory knob selected for unlocked, rear locked, or front and rear locked (verified by jacking up driver side and trying to spin tire by hand with 4wd engaged. Tire would not spin with 4wd engaged. Tire would spin freely with 2wd engaged)
-I removed the power wire from the truck battery to disable power to the bypass control box. Still, the front remains locked when I do this, but the front and front/rear locked lights both illuminate in all knob positions.

At this time the only thing I can figure is the bypass control box is bad. One thing i've noticed is when I first put the bypass in the relays made a very audible click when selecting the various lockup positions. The next day there is virtually no noise from them although the lights still illuminate as they should. I would appreciate any suggestions on things to check however if there is something i've missed.

At this time my front locker appears to be locked at all times. Knowing this truck has a CAD I intend to avoid engaging 4wd at higher speeds. I have to drive this truck for work so leaving it parked isn't really an option. I would assume i'm fine in 2wd with the front locker locked. Or, would you guys suggest I unplug the bypass harness from the front diff until I get this worked out? I would presume this would unlock the front locker.

I would appreciate any input from members who've installed the bypass in 4th gen trucks and especially 2014 and up trucks.

Thanks.

[PWRider]

Tire will not spin in 4wd (4hi or 4low doesn't matter) if you jack up only (any)one wheel. If tire spins in 2wd front locker is not engaged. That's basic principal of part time 4wd.
It takes time for lockers to engage bypass or not.
Jack up a wheel, engage locker(s). you will feel it lockup after you (try to) spin a tire. Or not (then you messed something up). Will all wheels on ground teeth may not mesh in locker unless you do "locker dance".

[NickTF]

Tire will not spin in 4wd (4hi or 4low doesn't matter) if you jack up only (any)one wheel. If tire spins in 2wd front locker is not engaged. That's basic principal of part time 4wd.
It takes time for lockers to engage bypass or not.
Jack up a wheel, engage locker(s). you will feel it lockup after you (try to) spin a tire. Or not (then you messed something up). Will all wheels on ground teeth may not mesh in locker unless you do "locker dance".

With an open diff in the front you sure about that? The instructions clearly state jacking up one front tire is how you check engagement. If it spins it isn't locked. If it doesn't it's locked. With a 14' and up truck you have to put the truck in 4wd otherwise cad won't engage. Am I missing something?

I sent this description to Cajun. He is going to send a new harness and box.

[NickTF]

Quoted from the directions:

"Operation can be confirmed by lifting the wheels off the ground. For the rear axle, lift both tires from the ground from the center of the axle. With the locker disengaged and the transmission in park, spinning one tire by hand will make the other tire spin in the opposite direction. With the locker engaged and the transmission in park, both wheels will be locked and will not spin. Some slack will be present. For the front axle, lift only one wheel off the ground. With the locker disengaged, the wheel will spin freely. With the locker engaged, the wheel will not spin. Some slack will be present."

[PWRider]

CAD does throw monkey wrench into testing a bit. Still either watch for front drive shaft spinning in 2WD (should not if locker is not engaged) or jack up both front wheels with locker on and 2wd wheels will spin in the same direction, 4wd + locker engaged they should not spin. 4wd + locker off they should spin opposite. You can always pull the plug on diff to disengage it for sure.

[Reloaderguy]

I installed my kit today. I did not jack up the truck. Instead I drove it and felt the lockers engage and disengage. Initially when I turned the knob on the dash both locker indicator lights would illuminate so I adjusted the pot for the front. I could hear the relays clicking on and off. During the test drive it was pretty obvious when the front locked, even in 2hi with CAD unlocked.

[NickTF]

Thanks guys. Hoping the new parts will fix my issue. When I drive the truck in 4w hi it definitely feels like the front is locked. I came from my old 97 with a lunch box locker in the front d60
So definitely familiar w the feeling of a locked front

[Stickman]

It's easy to tell if it is, just turn your wheel a full turn with it locked then let go of it, it will snap back to center very quickly. Sounds like one of the relays is bad to me if it's constantly sending power to one even after it been adjusted.

[NickTF]

It's easy to tell if it is, just turn your wheel a full turn with it locked then let go of it, it will snap back to center very quickly. Sounds like one of the relays is bad to me if it's constantly sending power to one even after it been adjusted.

Yep, that's exactly how the steering acts in 4wd

[Reloaderguy]

Can you hear the relays clicking open and closed?

[NickTF]

It's the t-harness. I plugged it in and removed and plugged it in and removed and each time I got a different behavior.
Got the front locker to work with bypass kit but never got the rear to work. I will replace it once Cajun sends a new one and that should do the trick.

[NickTF]

Quoted from the directions:

"Operation can be confirmed by lifting the wheels off the ground. For the rear axle, lift both tires from the ground from the center of the axle. With the locker disengaged and the transmission in park, spinning one tire by hand will make the other tire spin in the opposite direction. With the locker engaged and the transmission in park, both wheels will be locked and will not spin. Some slack will be present. For the front axle, lift only one wheel off the ground. With the locker disengaged, the wheel will spin freely. With the locker engaged, the wheel will not spin. Some slack will be present."

BTW, wanted to clarify something with these instructions and 14+ trucks. It should state that in order to test operation of the front locker both of the rear wheels must be off the ground as well while you jack up one of the front wheels. My front locker was never stuck on, I was testing it with the two rear wheels on the ground and with the truck in 4wd the transfer case was preventing the front diff from moving at all until jacking up the rear of the truck (when I jacked up the rear tires spinning the front tire results in spinning the rear tires). Because of the CAD of 14+ trucks you must test operation with the truck in 4wd otherwise you will just spin the intermediate shaft I believe.

[Reloaderguy]

Can't you check in 2hi? Jack up driver's side and spin tire. If the drive shaft turns it is locked.

[NickTF]

Can't you check in 2hi? Jack up driver's side and spin tire. If the drive shaft turns it is locked.

Not totally certain. I would just jack up the rear and one front to be certain.

Actually more I think about it no. Driveshaft probably wants to move even unlocked considering I couldn't spin front wheel in 4hi with only front wheel off the ground.

[Reloaderguy]

Jack up front driver's tire only in 2hi with front axle unlocked. Drive shaft should not spin with tire. Lock front axle, drive shaft should spin with tire. I'm not home but it should work.

[NickTF]

Jack up front driver's tire only in 2hi with front axle unlocked. Drive shaft should not spin with tire. Lock front axle, drive shaft should spin with tire. I'm not home but it should work.

You're right I think on second thought. With open diff something else has to turn if I'm turning one of the drive wheels. When in 4wd with only one wheel off the ground there is no other point that can turn which is why resistance in turning wheel was encountered. In 2 w hi that wouldn't be case because intermediate shaft can spin freely without CAD engaged. Front drive shaft may turn slightly unlocked 2w but should turn much more locked in 2 w. Let me know if your quick test verifies this.

Looks like PWRider described just this above, I'm late to the party lol

[adeluca73]

Quoted from the directions:

"Operation can be confirmed by lifting the wheels off the ground. For the rear axle, lift both tires from the ground from the center of the axle. With the locker disengaged and the transmission in park, spinning one tire by hand will make the other tire spin in the opposite direction. With the locker engaged and the transmission in park, both wheels will be locked and will not spin. Some slack will be present. For the front axle, lift only one wheel off the ground. With the locker disengaged, the wheel will spin freely. With the locker engaged, the wheel will not spin. Some slack will be present."

BTW, wanted to clarify something with these instructions and 14+ trucks. It should state that in order to test operation of the front locker both of the rear wheels must be off the ground as well while you jack up one of the front wheels. My front locker was never stuck on, I was testing it with the two rear wheels on the ground and with the truck in 4wd the transfer case was preventing the front diff from moving at all until jacking up the rear of the truck (when I jacked up the rear tires spinning the front tire results in spinning the rear tires). Because of the CAD of 14+ trucks you must test operation with the truck in 4wd otherwise you will just spin the intermediate shaft I believe.

That's correct, the directions are sketchy & test procedures don't work on CAD trucks.

[NickTF]

Yes, I wrote new instructions for Shelby to modify and send along with his kits as he sees fit.

[Reloaderguy]

I'm glad you got it sorted out.

[NickTF]

Ok, so finally we are good to go. Few updates:
-the t-harness was the issue for the front harness
-The rear didn't work because the wires were in the wrong terminals of the weather pack connector going into the rear diff. Cajun sent a new one quickly (Thanks!!!) and after having to adjust again due to the control box acting differently with the properly wired rear harness I'm back in business.
-The easiest way to test the front is as said by the previous comments. Locked, the front drive shaft will turn. Unlocked, the front drive shaft will not turn.
-The bypass absolutely engages the lockers night and day faster compared to the OEM setup it isn't even a close.

Word of advice, when routing the wiring from the control box down the inner frame to the front diff make sure to run it back further down the inner frame rail to stay away from the factory exhaust manifold. I noticed my wire loom was partially deformed in this area when taking the airbox back off to readjust the control box and reran it to get it far away from the factory exhaust.

[Reloaderguy]

For clarity, when testing the front, use 2hi. You can lift both tires but only the drivers side is necessary.

[ramv]

Should be able to do the front on the ground?

2 hi: CAD/t-case disconnected. Try to spin the driveline by hand. No go, locker working. Disengage locker, should be able to spin the driveshaft by hand (as it goes through the dif and spins the inner shaft on the passenger side.)

[15pwag]

Should be able to do the front on the ground?

2 hi: CAD/t-case disconnected. Try to spin the driveline by hand. No go, locker working. Disengage locker, should be able to spin the driveshaft by hand (as it goes through the dif and spins the inner shaft on the passenger side.)

I just installed my bypass and is this the correct way to check with out lifting tires off the ground? This is what I did and when I lock my front axle the driveshaft has just a little play but will not spin. Unlocked the driveshaft will spin freely. A few posts up states just the opposite. Just wanting to make sure mines installed right and workin properly. My jack at home isn't big enough to lift me truck! This is for a 2015 PW with the CAD front shaft.

[Reloaderguy]

Should be able to do the front on the ground?

2 hi: CAD/t-case disconnected. Try to spin the driveline by hand. No go, locker working. Disengage locker, should be able to spin the driveshaft by hand (as it goes through the dif and spins the inner shaft on the passenger side.)

I just installed my bypass and is this the correct way to check with out lifting tires off the ground? This is what I did and when I lock my front axle the driveshaft has just a little play but will not spin. Unlocked the driveshaft will spin freely. A few posts up states just the opposite. Just wanting to make sure mines installed right and workin properly. My jack at home isn't big enough to lift me truck! This is for a 2015 PW with the CAD front shaft.

I kind of face-palm'd after reading this. Yes, just spin the driveshaft by hand. It won't spin if the diff locks.

[15pwag]

Should be able to do the front on the ground?

2 hi: CAD/t-case disconnected. Try to spin the driveline by hand. No go, locker working. Disengage locker, should be able to spin the driveshaft by hand (as it goes through the dif and spins the inner shaft on the passenger side.)

I just installed my bypass and is this the correct way to check with out lifting tires off the ground? This is what I did and when I lock my front axle the driveshaft has just a little play but will not spin. Unlocked the driveshaft will spin freely. A few posts up states just the opposite. Just wanting to make sure mines installed right and workin properly. My jack at home isn't big enough to lift me truck! This is for a 2015 PW with the CAD front shaft.

I kind of face-palm'd after reading this. Yes, just spin the driveshaft by hand. It won't spin if the diff locks.

I was just wonderin!lol there were conflicting comments above!!