Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

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08TwinStickPW
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Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by 08TwinStickPW » Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:50 am

Time for ball joints at 35K.

Do I go cheap and let them do OE under my service contract for $100
or
Spend the $800+ for Carli and the $100 deductible for bullet proof ones and never worry again
or
Spend the $600+ for Dyntrac and the $100 deductable for good ones and most likly never worry again.

No hard offroading however I have been thinking I might go 35's when its time for tires. I am not hard on my truck however I really like the idea of bulletproof for piece of mind which is my I am contemplating doing the aftermarket and being done.

Also, do I have them do the universals when its apart, if so which ones?

Thanks
08' Dodge RAM PowerWagon (Laramie, 6 Speed)
GO: Diablo tuned, AEM drop in, Magnaflow "Y" and 24" muffler (dumper over the axle)
Traction/Suspension:305-70-17 Toyo AT2's, DT Profab Steering Brace, Carli front diff guard.
See: Silver stars headlights, 9012 fogs, reprogrammed for fogs with high beams, (2)6" KC LED gravity in driving/spread behind the grill
Tunes:Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS w/stock infinity amp, Infinity ref. dash/reardoor speakers, kappa component front door, JL rear stealth box and JX500.1d.
Other: Dually marker light under the tailgate, 2013+ Red hemi badges, Bedtred bedliner and mopar rubber mat, Wheel well liners, rubber flaps, Bakflip MX4, W2W Mopar steps (bedlined black), weathertech front mats and rain deflectors.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by nts007 » Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:57 am

Spicer joints work well. I'm running dynatrac and it's been 100k since and still tight.
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by chromedragon » Wed Jan 06, 2016 12:42 pm

Faced with the same question I went with the dynatrac's and the dynatrac free spin kit with warn hubs as at the time the unit bearing were going as well. have not had a hint of an issue and I have not exactly been gentle with it. Also yes I added spicer ujionts while I was at it just to make sure I had a solid update.
2006 Power Wagon Quad Cab Manual Moto Rims stock size, Cooper ATP, Dynatrac Ball joints, Dynatrac Free spin kit with Warn hubs, AmSteel blue 7/16 x 100' synthetics rope from Custom splice, Sony BT 602 stereo and backup camera etc. Rancho 9000XL adjustable shocks.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by coder » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:07 pm

I did Dynatrac's on mine about 80k miles ago and they are still going strong they are the best bang for the buck IMO
Vehicle: 2007 Power Wagon Quad Cab - Factory Options (Inferno Red, Premium Cloth Bench Seat, Light Group, Automatic Transmission, Leather Steering Wheel)
Suspension: Carli 3" Hemi Coils, Carli Control Arms, Carli King 2.5 Pin-Tops, Carli Stainless Steering Stabilizer, Carli Trackbar | Synergy 1" Rear Shackle
Performance: Magnaflow Muffler | Magnaflow Y-Pipe
Wheels/Tires: Yokohama X-A/T 35x12.5x17
Steering/Drivetrain/Axles: Carli Front Diff Guard | Dynatrac Ball Joints | Mopar HD Steering Gear
Miscellaneous: Line-X Bedliner | Locker Bypass Switch | Mopar Rock Rails | Odyssey Extreme 65-PC1750T | Performance Friction Brake Pads | Weathertech Digital Fit Mats | Winch Thermal Protection Bypass

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:12 pm

What would be wrong with the greasable Moogs? That's probably what I'm going to try when the time comes.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_e ... 460_En.pdf

http://www.summitracing.com/search/bran ... =Ascending
Last edited by Will on Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by RustyPW » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:15 pm

I got the Carli's when no one else had ball joints. So far, no problems. Still tight.
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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by 08TwinStickPW » Wed Jan 06, 2016 2:29 pm

Thanks everyone for the responses, looks like can't go wrong with Either Carli or Dynatracs.
Will wrote:What would be wrong with the greasable Moogs? That's probably what I'm going to try when the time comes.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_e ... 460_En.pdf

http://www.summitracing.com/search/bran ... =Ascending
Our trucks eat ball joint and the 2 only brands that seem to stand up are the Dynatracs (1 year warranty) or Carli (lifetime).

All other joints seem to fail in time, some hold up slightly longer than others. Moog are talked about, however they don't hold up compared to Dyna's or Carli (Carli seems to be more known to be one and done, both are rebuild-able if ever needed).

If your doing the job yourself and have all the tools and time needed, moog should be be fine. If your paying for labor to do the job, most spend the extra $$ and never have to worry paying to have it done again (at least that what I keep reading when searching the web).
08' Dodge RAM PowerWagon (Laramie, 6 Speed)
GO: Diablo tuned, AEM drop in, Magnaflow "Y" and 24" muffler (dumper over the axle)
Traction/Suspension:305-70-17 Toyo AT2's, DT Profab Steering Brace, Carli front diff guard.
See: Silver stars headlights, 9012 fogs, reprogrammed for fogs with high beams, (2)6" KC LED gravity in driving/spread behind the grill
Tunes:Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS w/stock infinity amp, Infinity ref. dash/reardoor speakers, kappa component front door, JL rear stealth box and JX500.1d.
Other: Dually marker light under the tailgate, 2013+ Red hemi badges, Bedtred bedliner and mopar rubber mat, Wheel well liners, rubber flaps, Bakflip MX4, W2W Mopar steps (bedlined black), weathertech front mats and rain deflectors.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by leo72987 » Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:05 pm

I currently have Napa units on as that is what the Dealer installed... Been on 30,000 miles without any issues and I do offroad quite a bit.. With that being said when they wear out the truck will probably have 200,000 miles on it LOL. I will most likely put Napa on again HAHHAHAHA... I'm a cheap bastard and do the work myself... But like the other members have said the consensus is either Dynatrac and Carli and avoiding xrf... from what I heard about xrf is they have done damage in past with our 2500 based trucks since sometimes they are to big and people force them to fit... this can enlarge the balljoint hole.. Since the ball joints are not pressed into the knuckle but the actual outer ears of the axle you are screwed if you mess them up...
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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:14 pm

It appears that there is a slim chance of getting axles that have the upper and lower ball joints perfectly aligned and the OEM ball joint is literally designed to deform itself for this reason and "line" up. That must be why some of yall eat ball joints. I must have gotten a perfect axle because I'm at 135K miles on the originals and get them checked every time I rotate the tires thinking, this is the time....gets me to wondering if you can check to see how your upper and lower line up, just like shaft alignment, if ones fighting the other, they will destroy each other. They're supposed to be working in unison on the same axis.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by TwinStick » Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:22 pm

The upper & lower ball joints are NOT on the same axis. The axle is designed that way. Years ago they were & because they were, they would equally share the load. Not so anymore. Has nothing to do with a "perfect axle". Please read the entire article below. Good stuff.

http://www.quad4x4.com/aamBallJoints.html

I used Carli's. No issues yet.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:42 pm

Well hell, I would of thought they would have at least been parallel...
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by TwinStick » Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:03 pm

Yup, me too. But that makes too much sense. :lol: We would design things to be stronger & last longer. They design future revenue into the new vehicles. Most 3/4 & 1 ton trucks of today are sporting the same sized drive train as 1/2 tons from the 70's.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by nts007 » Wed Jan 06, 2016 4:43 pm

Keep in Mind the stock setup is a lower balljoint and upper king pin. The upper joint holds no weight at all. The dynatrac corrects this by placing a more ball styler upper to help share the load. The stock setup is just brutal with one joint taking half of everything.

I can't find my reference but somewhere online I read the dynatrac is actually 4 balljoint setup where Carli still uses a ball/ king setup. But I am not sure how accurate that is. I do know though that the dyna uppers are much different.
Also you can rebuild the dynatrac in the cups and not have to press them out of the knuckle. Where all the rest of the designs make you press them out
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by RustyPW » Wed Jan 06, 2016 5:36 pm

When you get new ball joints. DO NOT get the ones with the splined fit area. That's the area that presses into the the hole. The splines will ruin the hole for the next time you have to replace the ball joint. You might have to replace the axle housing because the ball joints will no longer hold tight in the hole.

Been there, done that. :roll: :roll:
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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:43 am

I think I'm going to change mine soon anyway. Might as well get it over with.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Thu Jan 07, 2016 8:46 am

I have a couple of questions, I noticed there's adjustable ones for camber on lesser value, but not for the Dynatracs or Carli's. I called my local shop to get a price and they questioned getting straight ones and not being able to adjust camber. This is the same shop that has done all of my alignments and tires and such, awhile back they said I had a slight negative camber, I can't really even see it with the 37's. I dont personally think it's enough to worry about and my tires aren't wearing terrible. I think the little they found was wear in the joints themselves. Now the next questions is, do you think $340 is a good price for installing what I bring to them, including alignment and rotate and balance of the tires? I am plenty capable of doing it myself but dont have the time right now. thx
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by nts007 » Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:27 am

Ya dude. $350 for install is decent. It's 6-800 up here depending what shop for the install. Don't bother with adjustable joints either. Your 37's will fuck em up faster anyway. Rotate tires religiously. The camber is set for steering angles and is not adjustable for a reason. I also don't notice bad camber wear issues on my tires. If you have really really bad camber the your problems are bent tube and knuckles lol. As 2wag says then get a truss
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:57 am

10-4, I've put it off long enough, i went out a few minutes ago and jacked up the driver side, stuck a 5' bar under it was able to move it almost 3/16" up and down and can wiggle it a little top and bottom. I've been getting some weird change of directions in curves lately, I bet this is the reason. O well, 135K miles later, I just ordered the Dynatracs from 8Lug... 8-)

I do rotate tires a lot and they've been doing good. I have 42K miles on the Yokos so far and I wish they would wear out so I can try those Hankooks. :lol:
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by nts007 » Thu Jan 07, 2016 12:42 pm

Haha yea you will either love the hankooks or hate them. They are very heavy. I'd bet though you haven't had the weird almost DW experience that a bad joint gives with a vertical oscillation because you have the bigger tires.135k is a stupid long time to get stock bjs to last. 3/16" is a done joint lol. Such an easy test too. I've been happy with dynatracs. I would get them again in a heartbeat. And my truck gets beat on hard just leaving home on our wagon trail of a grid road. Also weird changes of direction could also become a wheel bearing issue or bad tie rod.
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by Will » Thu Jan 07, 2016 1:01 pm

I recently changed both from wheel bearing assemblies and the tie rods are solid. I'm thinking the ball joints are trying to seize up and fighting the steering just a little and then gives, I dont have changes in direction on straights, only in turns. I think they lasted this long because I put 54K mile on them with 35's and stock control arms so I could turn all the way :lol: :lol:

I agree with the bigger tires "holding" things in place, seems like the majority that has DW have stock size or similar. I didn't realize my ball joints were that bad until I forced them up, I've checked them a could of times lately by grabbing at 12:00 and 6:00 and trying to move them but it took a 5' bar to really jack it enough to see how bad they really and they were popping when I moved it up and down. I got the goody of em, thats for sure.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's (Moved to a new home)
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2333

I only do what the majority of the 4 voices in my head tell me to. In most cases, I ignore two of them because one doesn't speak English, and I suspect the other is talking to someone else.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by 08TwinStickPW » Sat Jan 09, 2016 11:32 am

Might be going OE, I need to talk to the dealer a bit more but if anything fails on the OE's labor and parts are covered.

Aftermarket, SOL on labor.
And if it takes longer to install or more time they may not do it.

If I go OE I can put the money towards a track bar, control arms, shocks, etc...
08' Dodge RAM PowerWagon (Laramie, 6 Speed)
GO: Diablo tuned, AEM drop in, Magnaflow "Y" and 24" muffler (dumper over the axle)
Traction/Suspension:305-70-17 Toyo AT2's, DT Profab Steering Brace, Carli front diff guard.
See: Silver stars headlights, 9012 fogs, reprogrammed for fogs with high beams, (2)6" KC LED gravity in driving/spread behind the grill
Tunes:Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS w/stock infinity amp, Infinity ref. dash/reardoor speakers, kappa component front door, JL rear stealth box and JX500.1d.
Other: Dually marker light under the tailgate, 2013+ Red hemi badges, Bedtred bedliner and mopar rubber mat, Wheel well liners, rubber flaps, Bakflip MX4, W2W Mopar steps (bedlined black), weathertech front mats and rain deflectors.

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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by 2wagons1driveway » Sun Jan 10, 2016 3:19 pm

coder wrote:I did Dynatrac's on mine about 80k miles ago and they are still going strong they are the best bang for the buck IMO
x2 like mine they've seen some shit and still tight


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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by RamGentry » Tue Jan 12, 2016 9:54 pm

08TwinStickPW wrote:Might be going OE, I need to talk to the dealer a bit more but if anything fails on the OE's labor and parts are covered.

Aftermarket, SOL on labor.
And if it takes longer to install or more time they may not do it.

If I go OE I can put the money towards a track bar, control arms, shocks, etc...
For the driving you seem to do I would agree and go OE.
If I start listing Mods I would have to change the list daily
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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by 2wagons1driveway » Wed Jan 13, 2016 12:17 am

Install is the same to do. Just usually requires one or two extra spacers which are supplied. You usually add value to truck by adding Carli ball joints and keeping receipt


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Re: Time for ball Joints. Do i go OE, Carli or Dynatrac

Post by nts007 » Wed Jan 13, 2016 1:41 am

If the dealership u go to is decent then I would take them carlies or dynatrac joints that you purchase and they should install them no charge on labor. Last time you will pay for those that's for sure
08 ctd--mini max--thuren 3" coils and LT Leaves--4.56 gears and lockers in pw axles--some lights--afe intake system--bd super b turbo--Banks w/m Injection--Dynatrac Balljoints--king 2.5"s--37" Hankook Dynapro MT--DOR Long arms--Custom emf track bar--Manual T-case swap--Full PW Under armor--PSC Hydro Assist and so much more

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