5.13 R+P for 10.5"

05PWrockcrawler · Post by **05PWrockcrawler** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:20 pm

They make 4.88's already.

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Black Pearl · Post by **Black Pearl** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:27 pm

05PWRC are u using them?
W 35 or 37s thats probably spot on.

RAM4ROKS · Post by **RAM4ROKS** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 10:36 pm

At a resonable price, I'd buy a set! That'd be the perfect ratio for my 37s! I've been wishing for some lower gears!!! If 2Wagons gets a set and acts as a guinea pig (and the gears survive), I'll know they're plenty strong, LOL!!!

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Sat Nov 07, 2015 10:28 pm

Lol I am Deffinately down to try them!

Sent from Canada

Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 12:14 am

I believe he was referring to the newer wagons with the 11.5 rear only. You can get 4.88's for them all day long

adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 3:44 pm

Colibri wrote:I believe he was referring to the newer wagons with the 11.5 rear only. You can get 4.88's for them all day long

But is going from the 4:10 to 4:88's really worth all the hassel & expense? I mean how much bigger tire can you really run & still maintain a min of 4:10 final drive? If I'd do it, I'd want at least 5:13's to make it worth the trouble

Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 4:10 pm

I agree, why bother with 4.88 when its so easy to run 37's on these trucks. That's why I went with 5.13's myself. If a guy wanted to stay on 35's I guess but seems like a lot of trouble and expense to regear for such a small tire size increase. It's not a common diesel ratio either, kinda weird.

azracer · Post by **azracer** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:13 pm

410 to 488 on 37's would be almost worth it IMHO (.78 improvement)

But 456 to 488... (.32 improvement) no way it would be worth the expense for the parts much less the work involved even if you did it yourself. I would have to really think about it as the 456 is fine with 35's and tolerable with 37's. The 456 to 513 may worth it in some cases but still a tough call in my book (.57 improvement).

I think you need a .85 improvement or better to justify a swap, but that's me. Either that or a a performance/towing issue your trying to fix any way you can. In that case .78 improvement is nothing to sneeze at and between that and a programmer and a few other improvements you will likely be very happy with the results.

In my case... I have 35's, the AirAid dry filter system with their high flow intake tube, a programmer on a 87 octane canned tune, free flow exhaust and I bet I'm doing better now than back I was stock with OEM BFG 33's. So combine that with a .78 gearing improvement and I would have one hell of a powerful package. But @ .57 improvement in gearing alone, I doubt it would do all that much.

In my opinion Speedometer calibration is critical for things to work right.

.

TwinStick · Post by **TwinStick** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:02 pm

Most people do not need lower gears in the axles, but if they had an auto trans with the gear ratios i have in my G-56 & the ability to hold in any gear you want, would work good fron 95% of us. That being said, I would so love to rock 37's & 5.13's on my truck. You could always go this route: https://www.gearvendors.com/4x4.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEhgAIVEWX4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA0_qciZifM

Post by **Pit Slave** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:35 pm

I still want 5.38s.....

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Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:50 pm

They make them for the 11.5 and 9.25 pit slave, I really wanted the 5.38's but after seeing the pinion head on the 5.13's id be wary of going any deeper on the 9.25

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Mon Nov 09, 2015 12:32 pm

TwinStick wrote:Most people do not need lower gears in the axles, but if they had an auto trans with the gear ratios i have in my G-56 & the ability to hold in any gear you want, would work good fron 95% of us. That being said, I would so love to rock 37's & 5.13's on my truck. You could always go this route: https://www.gearvendors.com/4x4.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEhgAIVEWX4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GA0_qciZifM

I'm leaning this route... A new 6 speed manual and keep the 10.5 aam and 4.56's and all the factory nanny locker stuff.

Sent from Canada

adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Mon Nov 09, 2015 10:54 pm

Colibri wrote:They make them for the 11.5 and 9.25 pit slave, I really wanted the 5.38's but after seeing the pinion head on the 5.13's id be wary of going any deeper on the 9.25

Ok, so I'm starting to seriously consider doing a front/rear axle gear swap, what's the consensus opinion for the best all around upgrade ratio from the stock 4:10? Any input on the best vendor/manufacturer?

Is that Gear Vendors over/under drive a better option, what's the cost trade off between new gears ir the secondary drive?

Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:30 pm

What size tire you running?

adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:45 pm

Right now still the stock OEM's, but I anticipate they'll be ready to be changed by spring. At that point I want to go 34-37 range...haven't totally committed to one size yet

Colibri · Post by **Colibri** » Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:58 pm

Hold off regearing until you've lived with the new tires/lift for a bit. I thought I would stay on 35's until shortly after I put them on lol. It's not something you want to do multiple times. The gear vendors unit is cool but its only useful in 2wd. Once 4wd is engaged you're right back where you started, so might as well do it right and regear.

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:01 pm

"But is going from the 4:10 to 4:88's really worth all the hassel & expense? I mean how much bigger tire can you really run & still maintain a min of 4:10 final drive? If I'd do it, I'd want at least 5:13's to make it worth the trouble"

You can run up to a 39 inch tire with 4.88 and maintain, final drive would be 4.13. I would use AAM gears only.
-cliffe

adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:09 pm

Colibri wrote:Hold off regearing until you've lived with the new tires/lift for a bit. I thought I would stay on 35's until shortly after I put them on lol. It's not something you want to do multiple times. The gear vendors unit is cool but its only useful in 2wd. Once 4wd is engaged you're right back where you started, so might as well do it right and regear.

Good inputs...ill definitely go tires first then figure out what gear set I want to change to. I wonder how bad the MPG hit is with 35/37's and 4:88 or 5:13??

adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Tue Nov 10, 2015 10:10 pm

usmc369 wrote:"But is going from the 4:10 to 4:88's really worth all the hassel & expense? I mean how much bigger tire can you really run & still maintain a min of 4:10 final drive? If I'd do it, I'd want at least 5:13's to make it worth the trouble"

You can run up to a 39 inch tire with 4.88 and maintain, final drive would be 4.13. I would use AAM gears only.
-cliffe

Any suggestions of where to buy the AAM gears? Direct from them?

usmc369 · Post by **usmc369** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 6:57 am

My rear aam gear was sourced from randy's, Im told their readily available.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 9:32 am

adeluca73 wrote:
Colibri wrote:Hold off regearing until you've lived with the new tires/lift for a bit. I thought I would stay on 35's until shortly after I put them on lol. It's not something you want to do multiple times. The gear vendors unit is cool but its only useful in 2wd. Once 4wd is engaged you're right back where you started, so might as well do it right and regear.
Good inputs...ill definitely go tires first then figure out what gear set I want to change to. I wonder how bad the MPG hit is with 35/37's and 4:88 or 5:13??

probably not to bad. Just have to find the sweet spot for the motor to enjoy itself. I find dodges seem to be happy factory alittle faster then the posted speed limits lol my truck sucks right now cause it's all city and stop and go I'm like 22-24l per 100km cause in letting the truck run in the morning for ten to fifteen minutes while I get ready and to help heat the oil up and reduce moisture on my short drive to work. Also it's getting cold in Alberta lol

Sent from Canada

coder · Post by **coder** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 12:59 pm

For a large truck with a modern V8, 4.56's for 35" and 4.88 for 37"s are perfect that put you back in the factory RPM range. As far as 5.13's for 40" tires on a dedicated off road vehicle. IMO

Will · Post by **Will** » Wed Nov 11, 2015 1:24 pm

My truck turns my 37's plenty with the factory 4:56. I don't rock crawl, that would be the only reason I would see going lower. It tows fine as well.

loveracing1988 · Post by **loveracing1988** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:08 am

adeluca73 wrote:
Colibri wrote:Hold off regearing until you've lived with the new tires/lift for a bit. I thought I would stay on 35's until shortly after I put them on lol. It's not something you want to do multiple times. The gear vendors unit is cool but its only useful in 2wd. Once 4wd is engaged you're right back where you started, so might as well do it right and regear.
Good inputs...ill definitely go tires first then figure out what gear set I want to change to. I wonder how bad the MPG hit is with 35/37's and 4:88 or 5:13??

Not entirely apples to apples but a guy on another forum went from 3.73's to 4.56's on a 2014 non power wagon with stock tires for easier towing. He said it hurt the mileage a little bit on the highway but not as much as one would think because the motor is higher up in the rpm range so mds comes on more, he is also in Colorado though.

2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:37 pm

Who has the info for the gear swap on here for the new 2014 wagon? Can't remember what the thread was called! Need some info on the new rear ends in the wagons the 13+ trucks. Is it an aam still? A 11.5 or an 11.8? I presume the locker is still same idea... Debating putting an 11.5 in my truck and swapping to 5.13's within the year but I really want to keep factory smart bar controller and I love the idea of the posi and the elocker in the rear. Can't find any aftermarket companies who make the same thing for the 11.5 dodges

Sent from Canada

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5.13 R+P for 10.5"

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