Ball joints on 06

Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 4:25 pm

My ball joints are out. Was looking around and found these. Seems like a killer deal!!!

http://m.1aauto.com/ball-joint-front/i/ ... aQodD2EAlw

Hope they work out for a while anyway till maybe getting the Carli ones. Woof those are pricy!!!

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Throttle 8 · Post by **Throttle 8** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:34 pm

yup $800 for the complete set. but they will be the last ones you will every have to put in.

RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:02 pm

Why would you want to do the ball-joints twice? Get the Carlis, and be done with it. It will save you in the long run.

w2dodge · Post by **w2dodge** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:08 pm

Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 9:21 pm

RustyPW wrote:Why would you want to do the ball-joints twice? Get the Carlis, and be done with it. It will save you in the long run.

Generally I would do so... Except the jeep is a total black hole sucking all mod money right now. Figured for 75bucks it would get be a while longer till funds become available. Also just had a kid 10 days ago.

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:17 pm

Thought about dynatracs? Lil cheaper. If be worried with 75 $ ball joints lol :/ up to you ultimately

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RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 10:21 pm

Jeepnjonny wrote:
RustyPW wrote:Why would you want to do the ball-joints twice? Get the Carlis, and be done with it. It will save you in the long run.
Generally I would do so... Except the jeep is a total black hole sucking all mod money right now. Figured for 75bucks it would get be a while longer till funds become available. Also just had a kid 10 days ago.

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Well......... you can start robbing from their college fund early.

I've worn your shoes once.

TwinStick · Post by **TwinStick** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:44 am

Unless you have the tools, the time & the know how, it simply is not worth it. If you have to have them replaced...even 1 more time...& you gotta pay labor, you just spent more than the Carli's would have cost you to begin with. I'd say 2 yrs max with the $75 ball joints. Around here: $600-1200 just for labor for 4 ball joint to be replaced. Just sayin'.

azracer · Post by **azracer** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 5:39 am

Do not get knurled body ball joints as that ruins the holes in the axle that they mount in and makes replacement with smooth body ball joints like Carli etc not possible anymore.

IMHO It is not a good decision to replace them with cheap ball joints as they will likely not last over 2 years and will be far worse than the OEM are right now. This is a rare case where OEM is better than most cheap alternatives. If you decide to go OEM then your over half way to the Carli @$800 or way over half way to a Dynatrack joints @$600. I know people who went cheep and they didn't make it a year and were worse that they were when replaced in the first place. The guys that use a snow plow don't even question the value of Carli ball joints, they just do it once and done. I have a lifetime Maxi Care warranty on my truck but will put in Carli ball joints when they are needed. If you think you are not keeping the truck thats a different story.

Graveltravels · Post by **Graveltravels** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:54 am

Jeepnjonny wrote:
RustyPW wrote:Why would you want to do the ball-joints twice? Get the Carlis, and be done with it. It will save you in the long run.
Generally I would do so... Except the jeep is a total black hole sucking all mod money right now. Figured for 75bucks it would get be a while longer till funds become available. Also just had a kid 10 days ago.

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I understand that!! My jeep gets all the lovin right now!!

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Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:11 am

Did you guys look at the link? the original retail price on it was $475. They were listed at 85% off. From what I understand they seem to be similar to the OEM but maybe you guys have more of experience on that one...

As for labor me and my brother were going to do them. so it didn't seem that big of a deal to me, makes it worth it if that's the case. He is a shop manager and has the tools.
If they last 2 years great! Totally worth 75 bucks. Truck will be paid off by then and will look into a full suspension and steering upgrade. Jeep should be about paid off about the same time aswell. May have to start thinking about 40s for the pw.....????

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Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:15 am

azracer wrote:Do not get knurled body ball joints as that ruins the holes in the axle that they mount in and makes replacement with smooth body ball joints like Carli etc not possible anymore.

IMHO It is not a good decision to replace them with cheap ball joints as they will likely not last over 2 years and will be far worse than the OEM are right now. This is a rare case where OEM is better than most cheap alternatives. If you decide to go OEM then your over half way to the Carli @$800 or way over half way to a Dynatrack joints @$600. I know people who went cheep and they didn't make it a year and were worse that they were when replaced in the first place. The guys that use a snow plow don't even question the value of Carli ball joints, they just do it once and done. I have a lifetime Maxi Care warranty on my truck but will put in Carli ball joints when they are needed. If you think you are not keeping the truck thats a different story.

Can you educate me on knurled and non type? Did you see the link? What type are those and how do you tell?

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:20 am

Jeepnjonny wrote:
azracer wrote:Do not get knurled body ball joints as that ruins the holes in the axle that they mount in and makes replacement with smooth body ball joints like Carli etc not possible anymore.

IMHO It is not a good decision to replace them with cheap ball joints as they will likely not last over 2 years and will be far worse than the OEM are right now. This is a rare case where OEM is better than most cheap alternatives. If you decide to go OEM then your over half way to the Carli @$800 or way over half way to a Dynatrack joints @$600. I know people who went cheep and they didn't make it a year and were worse that they were when replaced in the first place. The guys that use a snow plow don't even question the value of Carli ball joints, they just do it once and done. I have a lifetime Maxi Care warranty on my truck but will put in Carli ball joints when they are needed. If you think you are not keeping the truck thats a different story.
Can you educate me on knurled and non type? Did you see the link? What type are those and how do you tell?

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i think their referring to the body of the actual joint or the housing being knurled or splined to keep them from moving in the housing they kind of cut their own path so they stay put. I can't really tell from the picture if their knurled or not! If you have the tools and the know how do it yourself and save the dough! Your still running stock tires? 33" ? And stock wheels? The added stress of larger tires and a larger back space from the body on an aftermarket rim will greatly affect how long these last!!

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Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 10:29 am

Yes. Stock wheels and 33s. Was hopin to get some 315/35s before Moab.

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2wagons1driveway · Post by **2wagons1driveway** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:37 pm

I say try them out then for now! Hopefully their not made of plastic lol they should be ok

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Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:46 pm

2wagons1driveway wrote:I say try them out then for now! Hopefully their not made of plastic lol they should be ok

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Guess I'll see. If they seem janky I'll send them back. If not, maybe I'll have to give a review in 50k miles. Or they will have failed and I'll be dead. Hahaha

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azracer · Post by **azracer** » Thu Mar 19, 2015 2:38 pm

I can't tell from the photo but knurled is having small ridges/bumps on the surface; milled. Don't use them if they are!

Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 7:56 pm

Here's some photos.

These things shipped wicked fast.
Not sure totally what I'm looking at for top or bottom but here is one of each.

I'm hoping this isn't the knurling your talking about.

They have grease zerks and seem to feel beefy.

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adeluca73 · Post by **adeluca73** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:50 pm

Those are splined, under the pressure of the fittment, those splines will scour/score the cup & almost restrict you to using those again for subsequent replacements. But who really knows for sure.

FirerescuePW · Post by **FirerescuePW** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:20 pm

Yeah, that will most likely prevent you from using Carli in the future.

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RustyPW · Post by **RustyPW** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 10:27 pm

If you put them in. You're screwed.

Jeepnjonny · Post by **Jeepnjonny** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 10:54 pm

Thanks guys. Hate when things are too good to be true. Still don't have tax return back and Most jeep parts are bought. I guess instead of tires for the truck I'll be sending coin to Carli

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bstefanic · Post by **bstefanic** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 11:18 pm

Always could save yourself $150 and go with dynatracs. Absolutely love mine, regardless you should order through 8lugtruckgear.com amazing service

TwinStick · Post by **TwinStick** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:42 am

Good advise here. I would NOT put those in. Yes, those are knurled, or splined, or grooved, or what ever you want to call it. They will dig into the smooth surface & create permanent matching grooves, making you have to use those from here on out.

This is one of those "you can pay me now-----or-----you can pay me later" moments. One & done with Carli or DynaTrac.

Does NOT approve of these/this.

azracer · Post by **azracer** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 3:24 am

Power Wagon Registry

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