Factor 55- "Winch Hooks"

[04Ram2500Hemi]

There is some interesting stuff here. Definitely some stuff that would be good on a "rescue bag."

Website: http://factor55.com/

Here are a few pictures off of their Facebook page.

[Cactus Red]

We use one of the standard ProLinks on the Jeep. Works great!

[joeschmidt]

Thanks a bunch for posting this... headed over to Amazon and bought one!

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

My new Warn rollers are a lot bigger and the cable slot isn't large enough for the cable clasp to fit through. I wish it fit so I could tuck it in. These items rock!

[Garyrox]

I don't quite understand the concept of this. if it is better, I' m all for it and would replace my hook, I visited their website, thanks to the link, but not sure of the advantage of these, they are kind of confusing to this old man. Hopefully this thread will continue and I will understand better. Thanks for starting this thread. I am always willing to learn.

[Cactus Red]

A ProLink or safety thimble requires the use of a shackle. That is a closed system of attaching vs an open hook, and closed is always safer.

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[fbenross]

They say that it's safer to use than a hook because stuff can slip off a hook-and they look cool. And cool costs extra.

[R0NAN]

Has anyone replaced the rollers for a fairlead with the factory bumper and winch bracket?

[azracer]

Has anyone replaced the rollers for a fairlead with the factory bumper and winch bracket?

I didn't see any way to do that as the rollers mount to the winch bracket casting itself. It will take fabricating far outside of my skills to do it right.

[SheepdogOutdoorsman]

There are "C" clips on the outer edges of each roller. Remove one from each roller and you can remove the rod that the rollers roll on. You can then reinstall new rollers by performing this in reverse.

[R0NAN]

Thanks for the picture Azracer! Looks like it could be done with some fabricating and welding.

[Cactus Red]

Unfortunately, no nylon or delrin rollers are available for our winches. I'd considered making some in the shop, but the cost of a drill long enough to do them was over $300.00...

So, I removed and polished the rollers, and have had no problems using synthetic rope.

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[R0NAN]

Unfortunately, no nylon or delrin rollers are available for our winches. I'd considered making some in the shop, but the cost of a drill long enough to do them was over $300.00...

So, I removed and polished the rollers, and have had no problems using synthetic rope.

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That good to know... Thanks. I bought synthetic line but haven't put it on yet because I was unsure about the rollers. Your statement confirms what I was thinking... That the rollers work fine. After seeing the winch bracket photo, I might weld a thick plate on the front and bolt the 1.5 inch factor 55 fairlead to it so as to have it slightly protruding the bumper. Then a safety thimble wouldn't make contact with the bumper. I'll have to do some measuring to see if it's reasonable, otherwise I'll use the rollers and get a better hook

[Cactus Red]

Our roller are better than a fairlead. The way they are designed eliminates any pinch points and a roller is better at reducing friction than a fairlead. That said, we use a fairlead on the JKUR, and it's done a stellar job.

[Trouble Maker]

Our roller are better than a fairlead. The way they are designed eliminates any pinch points and a roller is better at reducing friction than a fairlead. That said, we use a fairlead on the JKUR, and it's done a stellar job.

Actually rollers are a roller fairlead. A hawse is a hawse fairlead. Much easier on any rope or cable being pulled over a moving roller instead of being drug across a fixed hawse style.

[adeluca73]

I have the Factor 55 foldable clevis installed & it will fit inside the PW bumper & snug against the rollers, but it is a tight fit. I wedged it in loose, then ran the winch cable tight. You need a set of safety ring pliers to get the retaining ring locked against the cable pin.

[Graveltravels]

Got the flat link on mine too. After using the thimble all summer on the jeep, I waited to get this before even setting up my winch. Great safety features!


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[R0NAN]

Well I went out today and bought the factor 55 flat link and a warn wireless remote. I'll go into the shop soon and install my synthetic rope with the new goodies. The winch remote was an unplanned purchase but those that have it say they like it... . Glad be be rid of that crapy hook.

[adeluca73]

Well I went out today and bought the factor 55 flat link and a warn wireless remote. I'll go into the shop soon and install my synthetic rope with the new goodies. The winch remote was an unplanned purchase but those that have it say they like it... . Glad be be rid of that crapy hook.

The hook has it's place, just not on a winch when using the "almost required" tree saver straps. I read all the Factor55 info on why NOT to use a clevis hook on a winch, and the DUH moment came, when I realized those clevis hooks were designed to be used with a recovery chain, which I don't know about you, but I don't carry one. SO it was a no brainer to me to choose between the proline XXLThimble or the Flatlink. I went with the Flatlink becasie it's cheaper, and a cleaner look.

[R0NAN]

The only time I use chain is when I get my winter firewood. I use my quad to skid 6-7 foot log sections out of the bush, load them on a trailer and then cut and split the wood to size at home. The chain and hook work very efficiently in that situation......wrap chain around the log, set hook so there is little slack and giver. In one day I can get all my winter wood using this technique and I burn a lot of wood.
The hook isn't the same as the the one on our trucks though....the one I use is designed to grab the flat surface of any of the chain links so that you can adjust the noose size to your needs.

[adeluca73]

The only time I use chain is when I get my winter firewood. I use my quad to skid 6-7 foot log sections out of the bush, load them on a trailer and then cut and split the wood to size at home. The chain and hook work very efficiently in that situation......wrap chain around the log, set hook so there is little slack and giver. In one day I can get all my winter wood using this technique and I burn a lot of wood.

Yeah, that's about the only use I've seen folks employ a chain and clevis hook effectively and safely. I know that technique works well. Loggers use a similar technique for winching out huge trees off hillsides when they can't get their large pickers in there to reterive it.

[Timgco]

A couple things to consider"
1: You can pinch your synthetic line in roller fairleads. Our factory rollers are close together, however it can still happen. If this does happen, your synthetic line is done. I have to find the article on synthetic winch line repair in the field. IT's not hard to do and something that is valuable when you are out in BFE.

2: If you have used steel line on your curent winch drum and rollers, take a dremel and make sure there are smooth and no burs. Even though we do not put weight on the last wrap against the drum, you can still get burs.

I like the use of synthetic over steel line for safety reasons, however there is nothing wrong with steel line as long as you know what you're doing. I NEVER winch off of anything/ to anything unless it's in a closed loop!!!! That's one of the reasons I prefer the FlatLink, ProLink, and Hitch Links. I'm been using/ sell them for a while now. The only complaint to date is that the hitch links get banged up easily since they are soft aluminum. Outside of that, I also have 3 extra C Clips (you can order those). Those are what hold the pins in place.

[Cactus Red]

I use the Winchline.com Safety Thimble. http://www.winchline.com/images-products/ST2L.gif

While similar to the original Prolink, it has been in use longer, and proven durable.

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[05PWrockcrawler]

Very nice


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[Cactus Red]

7/16" - 1/2" PN: 100511 from Winchline.com

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