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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby Ramicon » Thu Jun 06, 2013 11:03 pm

I just heard from the Dodge dealership that there will be NO 2013 Powerwagon..it will be called a 2014. Has anyone else heard this?
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby RustyPW » Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:30 pm

Chip_Rats hard wired locker thread. This one is a little different. :D


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost4632642
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2008 POWER WAGON RC
Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby cruz » Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:48 pm

stock 2005 Power Wagon angles
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angles.jpg
2005 Power Wagon
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby azracer » Wed Sep 04, 2013 4:51 am

Well I'm just days away from a major change in my trucks direction... Going to E rated 35/12.5/17 Toyo AT2 tires. I picked up a set of 5 H2 wheels a few years back and I am ready to mount the new tires to them. While the E rated tire will ride rougher the 0.5" wider wheel should help lesson that harshness just a bit. Since the 0.5" wider wheel is effectively split by the difference in backspacing between OEM and the H2's (@1.006" or +18mm H2 vs. +45mm PW), I suspect hub bearing and ball joint load will remain somewhat unchanged from stock. I wanted to be sure I covered all my bases before taking the plunge and dug up some old info in the process. Just thought I would share what I found. The net change I thiink is about 0.75" less back spacing or also can be said 0.5" wider track on center. While in reality it is not much of a change... it is a major deviation from OEM geometry in my book.

I used this to compare the wheels
http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

PS: This for me is a huge change as I have always confined my wheels to specifications so as to not change dynamic loads or steering geometry (IE: .5" wider = 1.006" less backspacing). While my research shows that this H2 wheel change is an enhancement and not really a negative geometry change, I'm still just a little apprehensive about deviating any percentage from the OEM steering geometry.

These links have some good info.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/my04do...h2install.html

These links have some alternative info that one can follow at your own risk.

http://www.benchtest.com/rims.html

http://www.4x4spot.com/h2_rims_dodge_ctd.htm


I have the H2 wheels and 35/12.5/17E-AT11 tires on the truck and can definitely say there is a change in how it handles. The difference is huge. I'm not sure it is a net negative but it feels so much different I'm no longer comfortable tossing the truck around.... yet. I'm not real sure, but I suspect some of the change is likely due to the new tires. Need to do the alignment next week and I will start a separate H2 wheel thread if it merits coverage.
My build 2009 3G
http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2305

Beginners reading list:
1) Quigley’s Anglo-American Establishment – 354 pages http://www.carrollquigley.net/pdf/the_a ... shment.pdf
2) Wall Street and the Bolshevik Revolution by Antony C. Sutton 165 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... tion-5.pdf
3) Wall Street & the Rise of Hitler by Antony C. Sutton 148 pages https://www.voltairenet.org/IMG/pdf/Sut ... Hitler.pdf
4) Wall Street and FDR by Antony C. Sutton 177 pages http://sandiego.indymedia.org/media/2007/02/125049.pdf
5) Dishonest Money by Joseph Plummer 175 pages http://joeplummer.com/dishonest-money.html
6) None Dare Call it Conspiracy by Gary Allen 197 pages http://www.outpost-of-freedom.com/libra ... y_1971.pdf
David Rockefeller: Memoirs (The story of traitors)
http://www.devvy.com/pdf/2006_November/ ... rnment.pdf
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Re: Winch Thermal Protection Switch Mod:

Postby Trouble Maker » Fri Dec 27, 2013 12:12 am

Cactus Red wrote:http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2960454&postcount=7

After troubleshooting using the Chrysler Winch Service Manual (provided courtesy of Warn also attached here), I finally figured out that it wasn't my solenoids or my motor that had gone bad (as previously diagosed by the stealership), but rather the stupid thermal protector that had gone bad again (I had previously had the motor replaced for this).

This time I wasn't so quick to spend a few hundred dollars on a motor etc, so I set about trying to figure out if anyone else was having the same issue. After looking around on the internet it appeared that there were a few other folks were having the same issue even though they hardly used their winch's (I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not.)

After reading a few posts I decided to take a trip to my local NAPA auto parts to see if I could put together a bypass that looked pretty good and didn't cost an arm and a leg. I purchased item number 755-1598 a 2-Flat Electrical Connector - 12" Loop ($1.99) (similar to the connector that goes from the solenoids to the thermal protection switch) a few crimp ends and had some electical tape laying around the house. (All told less then $3.00)

Here are the pictures and instructions to detail what i did to put it together.

Instructions:

1. Cut the 2-Flat Electrical Connector in half and leave about 2 inches of wire on both ends.

2. Strip all 4 wires leaving the bare copper ends

3. Twist the ends of the black and white wires together

4. Use a 14-20 gauge crimp ends and crimp them onto the ends of the combined wires.

5. Finish with electrical tape to make more water resistant and a nicer finish.

6. Separate the two ends on the winch

7. Plug the newly created bypasses onto each end (you likely don't need the end from the side going to the winch motor but I don't like to leave empty wires hanging.)

8. Enjoy the fact that your winch is working again without having to replace the motor. (Just to verify the fact that there wasn't anything wrong with the motor I did take it apart and it looked good as new).
Have been looking at this here and dodgetalk and I think using the whole connector inline with a toggle switch across the 2 wires would be a better solution. There is probably enough room in the solenoid box cover to install the switch by the remote plug and the switch could be left in the open position till the TPS trips and then it could be switched to the closed position to bypass the TPS.
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby SilverWagon05 » Wed Feb 19, 2014 7:07 am

A-pillar grab handle fix. These will help to repair/improve your driver and/or passenger A-pillar grab handles, whether you are replacing a broken one or just want to prevent them from breaking in the first place.

http://www.genosgarage.com/GRAB-HANDLE- ... wQTzZ8o7qA
05 Silver QC Power Wagon / Auto
Pure Performance long arms, 6" Thuren soft ride coils, Walker Evans 2.0 Front and Fox 2.0 rear shocks, HD adj. track bar, 37/13.5/17 Toyo Open Country M/T's, 17x9 Moto Metal 951-black, dual-modified Amp Power steps, Custom rock sliders and front and rear tube bumpers, rear lower quarter panel delete, Challenger Narrow truck box - black, AEM Brute Force CAI, SC Flashpaq, Flowtech shorty headers, Gibson Extreme Dual Cat-Back (chopped), Line-X Bed liner, Locker bypass, Black locking Billet Gas filler door, WeatherTech smoked inchannel vent visors & floor liners, Recon LED smoked cab lights, smoked LED 3rd brake light, smoked LED tail lights, smoked projector headlights, Viair constant duty OBA, DOR steering box brace, PowerStop drilled & slotted rotors w/ ceramic pads, Spicer Life series front axle u-joints, DOR sway bar links, DOR steering linkage, Borgeson steering shaft and steering gear, PSC Hydro-assist, Thuren adjustable shackles, leaf spring bracket modification, coil retainer modification, Spyntech Shorty Free Spin conversion, custom long travel heavy duty front drive shaft, Rock crusher rear diff cover, Carli front diff guard, Masterpull synthetic winch rope, 2-6" KC 130w Longrange lights behind the grill, 100w fog lights, 55w floodlights mounted on rear bumper, High/Low/Fog all-on mod, Pioneer head unit, MTX Thunderform with 2-10's, Tekonsha P3 brake controller, Timbren SES.
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby leo72987 » Fri Feb 21, 2014 12:50 pm

Replacement Swaybar/Stabilizer Bar links

Standard Replacements
AC Delco 88877760
Raybestos 5451737
Mopar 05139522AA

Heavy Duty Replacements

DTS Pro Fab

http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02043-1-POWE ... p_313.html
2005 Wagon Standard Cab Auto,Bilstein 5100's,White Knuckle Sliders,Dodge Offroad Diff covers,Cooper St Maxx's stock size, Hardwired lockers,Evo manual sway bar disconnect conversion, DT Pro Fab Sway Bar links
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby TwinStick » Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:50 pm

Battery Charge & Discharge chart.

http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycl ... 0Batteries

Scroll down about 3/4 of the way.
2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls a 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????
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Power Wagon winch replacement rollers

Postby leo72987 » Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:23 am

They come as one each per part number and include the cross pin, retaining clip, roller, and bushings. The price isn't bad either about $24 for one Horizontal roller package and $7 for a vertical package.

Horizontal roller Mopar 05143198AA
Vertical roller Mopar 05143199AA
2005 Wagon Standard Cab Auto,Bilstein 5100's,White Knuckle Sliders,Dodge Offroad Diff covers,Cooper St Maxx's stock size, Hardwired lockers,Evo manual sway bar disconnect conversion, DT Pro Fab Sway Bar links
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Tire tests and reports

Postby Cactus Red » Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:36 am

Tire testing and other reports:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2485
I'm just along for the ride...
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby CWood » Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:04 pm

Sway Bar (Smart Bar) Fix!

First I'd like to thank Cactus for some help on the smart bar. It helped me understand it better to fix it and to know what to look for when trouble shooting it. Second, I tore the whole thing apart. Yes, and you can too. I found out how it really works and the main reason everyone has a problem with it. For reference my PW is a 2008. I hope to post my pics soon.

The smart bar "motor" is really simple. Cactus I have to correct two things. Pushing in on the "small plunger" does not make the "big one" pop out. Inside they are the same piece of metal. Yours likely had no lube and was getting cocked and stuck. Also, if you spray WD40 inside of the housing you MUST re-apply grease after it dries. Stuff it with grease. The grease you use on your joints such as your ball joints will work just fine.

So my original problem was that my bar would not lock except at one point when I was off road and I had a high degree of articulation (This is the day after I bought it). The funny thing was that it locked with my sway bar ends being at least 6" out of alignment. This made my PW sit as if I had completely destroyed my right hand leaf springs. So I researched and ended up taking out and tearing it all apart including the housing. I had nothing to loose.

There are 2 gears inside. One attached to each half of the sway bar. There is a gear sleeve that either sits on one gear (unlocked) or slides over to sit on both gears (locked). Both gears have a big tooth which must line up before the sleeve can slide onto both gears. Well just like Dodge front ends the tolerances on this sway bar are not well tuned. Essentially when the sway bar ends line up (where your sway bar links attach), the teeth are not quite lined up. This is what requires you to rock your PW.

So what was wrong with mine? Either the factory or whoever tried to fix it must have pressed one of the gears into place without even being close to alignment. When my teeth lined up the bar was completely out of whack. So I pressed the gear in, removed the snap ring, and pulled the gear off to line it up and reset it. I had to eye ball it. Re-lube everything heavily. Make sure you get all your parts back in place (there is also a spring and a washer/spacer). Clean and lube the seal and edges of the housing then put it all back together.

So in short. Like Cactus said, first figure out if its the electric actuator. Follow his steps for that. If the actuator is not the problem then go straight to taking out the whole bar and pulling it apart. If you feel confident enough to do an oil change and rotate your tires then you can handle this bar. Chances are you don't have a problem as bad as mine was and all you have to do is clean, lube and reassemble. PM me for help.
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Re: Power Wagon FAQ's - just the FAQ's! PLEASE READ FIRST!

Postby RustyPW » Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:26 am

I've loosen the bolts up and pried it apart alittle on mine and sprayed lube (oil) into it. While still on the truck.
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Mods to the PW; Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper , PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN'.

Moab '10, '12, '14.
Rausch Creek Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17,
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Re: Axle shaft comparison - AAM vs Dana

Postby TwinStick » Mon Dec 21, 2015 11:55 am

Cactus Red wrote:Axle shaft comparison - AAM vs Dana

The PW uses the 9.25 AAM in the front, a non standard 10.5 in the rear. The PW 10.5 rear axle uses the larger 11.5 axle shafts.

Dana 60 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 9.75"
Dana 70 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 10.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 38.1mm, 1.50", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 11.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 40.6mm, 1.60", Spline count 37, ring gear diameter - 11.5

AAM 9.25 axle shaft diameter - 34.8mm, 1.37", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 9.25"
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - ?
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter 10.5 - for the PW
AAM 11.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter - 11.5"



If memory serves me correctly, the rear axle shafts on my 2004 were 1.23" dia.
2008 Red QC PW G56. No lift yet, stock size tires. It pulls a 2016 Starcraft AR One Extreme, 3500 lbs.
Load Pro 35 helper springs. 2015 A.R.E. MX Series custom cap. PCP front diff cover protector. Mag-Hytec 6 qt rear diff cover. K&N replacement air filter only. Dual grounded throttle body. Winch TPC bypass. Fab Four rear bumper. DURA BAK lined rocker protection. And a bunch of new front end stuff.

G-56 Gear ratios: 1st) 6.29:1 2nd) 3.48:1 3rd) 2.10:1 4th) 1.38:1 5th) 1.0:1 6th) 0.79:1 Rev 6.29:1 --- = 78.01613:1 Crawl Ratio
-------------------------5.94:1--------3.28:1-------1.98:1-------1.31:1-------1.0:1-------0.74:1-----5.42:1 ---- = 73.675:1
545RFE----------------3.0:1---------1.67:1--------1.0:1--------0.75:1-------0.67:1------------------3.0:1 -------=37.21:1

2013+ 32.47 crawl ratio...............Can you see the trend ??????????????
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