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"T" linkage with BD Steering Brace

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:11 pm

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"T" Linkage Part Numbers

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:14 pm

"T" Linkage Part Numbers

Prices as of July 09

Steering Kit, (rod & link) PN 52122362AD, $313.00
Damper, (steering stabilizer) PN 52122370AB, $145.00
Arm, (pitman arm) PN 68039930AA, $72.00
Nuts, (3 nuts) PN 6505623AA, $1.60 each
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Electrical Connectors

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:15 pm

Electrical Connectors
Lockers and more.

http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_select.asp
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How to remove and relocate Hemi Badges for fender flares

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:17 pm

How to remove and relocate Hemi Badges for fender flares

Go to your local auto body supply and get a spray bottle of 3M trim remover. Spray it around the emblems, then slip an old credit card gently behind the trim and slide it off. Reinstall with 3M double sided tape. Apply tape to emblem and trim edges with a razor blade before you peel off the back face of the tape. Put a light, soft pencil line on the paint to locate the emblem because you can't adjust it once it hits the paint.
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How to stuff an Odyssey 2150 into the factory battery box

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:18 pm

How to stuff an Odyssey 2150 into the factory battery box

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ht=odyssey
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Control Arm install w/ photos

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:21 pm

Control Arm install w/ photos

After bending the passengers side lower arm, I decided to upgrade vs. buying one new stock arm. After going to 315/70-17 GoodYear MT/R's I had rubbing problems on both the lower and upper control arms. I was not able to get full lock turning radius. To cure both problems I turned to:

DT PRO FAB
484 EZ Street Prescott, AZ.86301
Phone 928.776.4129 FAX 928.776.2405
http://www.dtprofab.com/default.asp

Parts supplied by DT Pro Fab:

Upper and Lower Control Arms - mine are prototypes for clearanced style arms. They are 1/2" over stock length. DT Pro Fab has straight stock length and 1/2" over arms in stock, ready to ship.

8 long poly bushing for the lower arms, 8 short poly bushings for the upper arms, 8 tubes of assembly lube, 4 long steel bushings for the lower arms, 4 short steel bushing for the upper arms, 8 90 deg grease Zerk's, 1 long replacement bolt for the upper rear driver side control arm.

Tools Required:

Quality Jack stands, Saws All or hacksaw, boxed end wrenches, 1/2" socket set, crayon or chalk, tire iron, two floor jacks or bottle jacks, come-a-long.

Procedure:

Preassmble all four arms using one tube of assembly lube for each bushing set - two poly bushings and the steel bushing. Install the grease Zerk's so the ends face inward. This is a sticky mess - the lube is as tacky as Michael Moore...

Jack up and support the truck - I used the front frame horns to provide room to work. Remove the tires, and place tires under front door frame rails for safety. Remove the steering stabilizer skid plate. Support the front axle with jacks - you may have to adjust the height to make removing the bolts possible.

Use crayon or chalk to mark the alignment cams to make reassembly close to where it needs to go. R and R one side at a time to help keep the axle aligned. Remove both upper and lower arms. The drivers side is pretty straight forward - all the bolts can be removed without clearance problems. The passengers side rear upper control arm bolt will not clear the O2 sensor and bung. Loosen it enough to saw off the head, keep the nut for reuse. Replace the upper arm first, starting with the upper rear bolt. If the axle has shifted, you may have to use the come-a-long to pull it back into position. I had to do so on the passenger side. After assembly, grease the bushing with synthetic grease or polyurethane grease. Double check all nuts and bolts, replace tires, torque lug nuts to 135 Ft/Lbs.

I checked clearance in my front ditch - no rubbing on the control arms in any condition. There is minor contact with the front plastic due to the 1/2" over stock length - I have a set of 1" Daystar spacers on order to help with that.

Total time for the install was about 6 hours. I worked at a leisurely pace, ate lunch, started at 10:00 AM, was done road testing and photographing by 4:00 PM.

mcp.php?i=main&mode=post_details&f=13&p=276
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Axle shaft comparison - AAM vs Dana

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:23 pm

Axle shaft comparison - AAM vs Dana

The PW uses the 9.25 AAM in the front, a non standard 10.5 in the rear. The PW 10.5 rear axle uses the larger 11.5 axle shafts.

Dana 60 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 9.75"
Dana 70 axle shaft diameter - 35.8mm, 1.41", Spline count 32, ring gear diameter - 10.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 38.1mm, 1.50", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 11.5"
Dana 80 axle shaft diameter - 40.6mm, 1.60", Spline count 37, ring gear diameter - 11.5

AAM 9.25 axle shaft diameter - 34.8mm, 1.37", Spline count 35, ring gear diameter - 9.25"
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - ?
AAM 10.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter 10.5 - for the PW
AAM 11.5 axle shaft diameter - 39.0mm, 1.56", Spline count 30, ring gear diameter - 11.5"
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Second battery mounted on frame rail

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:26 pm

Second battery mounted on frame rail

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showpos ... stcount=57
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Installing coil spacers

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:35 pm

Installing coil spacers

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42
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Spare tire lock

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:39 pm

Spare tire lock

There was a thread on here about stolen tires some time ago. I got to thinking. I didn't want to take a chance being away from home. With a new 35" spare. So one of my odds and ends to do before I left for Moab was to install a lock for the spare tire. I got the factory lock for $49.00. Took about 15 minutes to install. All you have to do is crank down the spare tire. Remove pin from tire winch. Remove rod, and install new rod. Install pin. Crank tire back up. And your done. It mades it alot easier to find the spot where to put the tool at. The kit is made by McGard.
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Speedometer Adjustments For 35" Tires

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:40 pm

Speedometer Adjustments For 35" Tires

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258302
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How to make your own nerf bars for the rock rails.

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:42 pm

How to make your own nerf bars for the rock rails.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... =Nerf+Bars
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Here is the complete thread on the Winch Thermal Protection

Postby Cactus Red » Fri May 25, 2012 9:43 pm

Here is the complete thread on the Winch Thermal Protection Switch Bypass.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ht=thermal
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How to disassemble your console.

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:29 pm

How to disassemble your console.

I had to disassemble my console again to hook up my KC back-up lights. So I decided to take some pic's this time for those who haven't done it yet. Tools needed. A 13mm for the bolt that holds the transfer case leveler on, 5/16 socket for a couple of bolts that hold the plastic, a Phillips screw driver for a couples of screws, and a flat blade screw driver for plying.

1st pic. You pick up on the cup holder and remove it.
2nd pic. Take the flat blade screw driver and ply up on the BACK side of the boot. If you do the front, it WILL break.
3rd pic. Use the 13mm socket and extension to remove the bolt and pick up the leveler out to the hole.
4th thru 9pic, Remove the one Phillips screw and 3 bolts.
Pick up on the left side and remove.
And this is what you have.
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Exploded view of the axles.

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:33 pm

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Spark plug maintenance info

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:38 pm

Spark plug maintenance info

The stock plugs service interval is every 30,000 miles. The plugs are: Champion #-RE14MCC4 (16 of them) with an 0.045 gap.
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Synthetic rope and stock fair lead and recovery discussion

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:44 pm

Synthetic rope and stock fair lead and recovery discussion

Q I'm thinking of switching to synthetic rope. My steel cable is kinked in a few places and I'm going to changw it out. Anybody using synthetic rope? I was looking at how the winch and fair lead is mounted on the power wagon and changing to an aluminum hawse fair lead ain't gonna happen without some modification. Any thoughts?

A I would just change the rollers out for new ones. Then you shouldn't have an issue. New clean smooth rollers for the new synthetic rope.

Q Where can I get synthetic rope?

A There are several companies that supply rope rated for out winches. Check http://www.winchline.com/ and http://www.masterpull.com/

more info:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=222186
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Hood Mount for either Ham radio or CB radio

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:47 pm

Hood Mount for either Ham radio or CB radio

http://www.larsen-antennas.com/docfiles/ASB8/Mounts.pdf

After many trips thru the brush and trees where the magnetic mount antenna got knocked off the roof, I decided to fix it permanently. I considered several options including hard mounting the antenna via a thru the roof NMO mount, but as tall as the Power Wagon is, I figured it would only be a matter of time before I either damaged the mount and bent the sheet metal. The second option was a fender/hood mount. I knew I’d loose some performance, but decided the benefits outweighed the decreased range and clarity. I found one in the Larsen catalog on page 192. The Larsen TMB-34D is made for late model Dodge trucks. HRO (Ham Radio Outlet) has the mount in stock.
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Smart Bar Fix

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:48 pm

Smart Bar Fix


ISSUE: Dis-engage/engage swaybar light was flashing. Would not lock into either setting. Serv 4wd light on under tach (sometimes).

Took me about an 1hr by myself and I did not know what I was doing. Stop any time if you get a solid swaybar light.


1. Flex truck first. Shake truck back and forth hard. Try to engage swaybar.
Check swaybar light

2. Unplug elect. plug from Alumium Housing on smartbar;clean contacts and apply elect. grease (little packet used for lightbulbs $1.50 at autozone). Check swaybar light

3. With the Truck ,not started, key in aux(acc) position,, place in 4wd Lo.
Hit engage then back to disengage switch and listen for noise when pushing the, engage then back to disengage, switch. You should hear somthing. I did not.

4. Turn off truck. Undo the three bolts on the Smartbar motor housing (the side with the plug attatched). With the plug attached, let the housing hang so that the silver rod gets pushed in using the edge of the skid plate///or tape the silver rod so that its pushed in ( the silver rod will not go all the way in the housing it goes down about an 1 inch). The silver rod was sticky on mine so I sprayed it and with wd40 until it moved ,,,smoothly. Sprayed black plastic plunger(spring inside) too.

5. Turn key to aux(dont start). Still in 4wd lo... Hit the engage/disengage swaybay switch back and forth. You should here the plunger (black plastic with spring inside) make noise. The swaybar light should stop flashing and you should get solid light.
If you dont hear anything then Make sure silver bar is pushed in about an inch or so Also re-check your contacts on the elect plug.
The Black plastic plunger (spring inside) should pop in and out; when its out you will be able to see the spring from the side (looks like ithe plunger is hanging on by 2 plastic tabs).

5a. If it dosent make noise then there is your issue. Contacts or burnt motor?
If you hear a noise move to step 6.

6. Look in the other housing attatched to the bar. You will see two holes with metal plungers. Take the back of you socket wrench and push in the the larger plunger(quarter size). Use a plillips screwdriver and push in on the small plunger to pop the big plunger back out. Mine was very very sticky; sprayed down with wd40 and worked it back and forth. I also wiped it clean and applied grease.
You will have to push on the small plunger to get the large plunger to pop it back up.

7. Optional, My large silver plunder was still sticky. I loosened the five bolts on the housing motor attached to ther bar. You can slide the rubber hanging grommet off(grease metal ball on hanger) then you can get better access to the bolts. The case will only crack open about 1/8 of an inch. Work the Large silver plunger in and out until somewhat smooth.
Re tighten case. Bolt front casing pice with the elect plug back on.

Swaybar should disengage/engage very easy. If not rework plungers.
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MyGig RER into a 2006 Ram (PW or non-PW

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 7:50 pm

MyGig RER into a 2006 Ram (PW or non-PW

A little background on the CAN BUS system in DCx (Daimler Chrysler) vehicles

MyGIG radios run on two different Bus systems, a low speed Bus (CAN B) and a high-speed Bus system (CAN C). MyGIG radios designed for a high-speed electrical bus will not work on a vehicle with a low-speed bus, and vice versa.

CAN stands for "Computer Area Network." This is the actual computer CPU speed of the chips that controls the whole system. If you are in the IT field, you can relate this terminology to a LAN (Local Area Network), WAN (Wide Area Network), MAN (Metropolitan Area Network), etc. Basically, it's the same thing.

All 2006 vehicles' CAN bus systems are all Low Speed CAN Bus systems. For 2007 and newer DCx vehicles, it was a toss of a coin (loosely put) whether you have a Low Speed or High Speed Bus. There was no specific guideline whether to figure out if you have a Low Speed or a High Speed System. If you have a non-Ram vehicle and you want to put one of these radios in, you will have to check the list of vehicles to figure out what you have. Check this link out for a list of the radio part#s and DCx vehicles to determine what you have. Llike I said, 2006 are low speed, as well as 2007 and 2008 Rams.

MyGig Infotainment Radio Systems Bus Speed compatibility and Part #s:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/MyGIG_parts.htm#PARTS

The CAN bus on 2009, 2010 and future Rams, and possibly all future DCx (or should we now call them Chrysler/Sergio vehicles?) are all High Speed Bus systems.

MyGig RER vs REN, as well as REN+RSC, REN+REU, etc

Ok, that out of the way, we need to take a look at the MyGig radio versions. You can see the radio versions printed on the bottom right corner on the front radio face in the vehicle.

There are two main version in the US/Canada/North America market. They are the RER and REN versions. The predominant versions are the RER and REN radios. I haven't seen the REU radios (with 7" screens) on sale anywhere.

The following list of MyGig versions is a condensed list of what's at:
MyGig Infotainment Radio Systems Bus Speed compatibility and Part #s:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/MyGIG_parts.htm#PARTS

RER = All the goodies, including NAV, Sat and Uconnect built-in. Manufactured by Alpine.
• Navigation radio with 6.5" touch screen
• Integrated satellite radio
• Integrated Bluetooth UConnect
• 20 GB hard drive (2007 to early 2008)
• 30 GB hard drive (starting early 2008)
• Larger drives on later year models

REN = Manufactured by Alpine. 6.5" touch Screen. Similar to RER except:
• No Navigation
• No Integrated Bluetooth Uconnect
• No Satellite
• 20 GB hard drive (2007-2008)
• 30 GB hard drive (2009)
• Larger drives on later year models

REN + RSC = Manufactured by Alpine. 6.5" touch Screen. Have Sat (RSC= integrated satellite radio) and are similar to RER except:
• No Navigation
• No integrated Bluetooth Uconnect
• 20 GB hard drive (2007-2008)
• 30 GB hard drive (2009)
• Larger drives on later year models

REU = Not sure who the manufacturer is. Similar to RER except:
• 7" detached LCD monitor
• Non-Touch Screen
• Joystick Controlled HMI
• Has built-in 6-disc changer
• Has integrated satellite radio

RBZ = (without integrated satellite radio)
This unit replaces model REN as a running change during the 2010 model year (manufactured by Mitsubishi)
• 30 GB hard drive

RBZ +RSC = (RSC= integrated satellite radio)
This unit replaces model REN (+RSC) as a running change during the 2010 model year (manufactured by Mitsubishi)
• 30 GB hard drive

REC = This is not a MyGig radio.
This radio was predominant in the 2006 and 2007 model years. The REC is the Non-Touch Screen radio with the manual joystick on the right side of the radio that you use to input street addresses, move around the map, etc. They even have a lockpick for this radio to allow reverse cameras, baby cameras, remove blocks while in motion, etc. If you want to keep this radio and unlock it, see here:
http://www.coastaletech.com/REC_LOCKPICK.htm

So what MyGig radio do I want?

Simple. You want the RER versions. The others do NOT have all the goodies on it that the RER has. You may need to get a microphone kit for the UConnect, too, unless you already have the UConnect rear view mirror with the built-in microphone.

To fit the RER into a 2006 with a Low-Speed CAN Bus, you NEED the MyGig Lockpick v2.0 adapter. This also works for all Low Speed CAN bus systems. Besides it making it adaptable to a 2006, it also gives you Reverse Camera, the ability to hook up your laptop, iPod, iPhone, mini-DVD or any other video source, even a TV tuner, and watch it while driving. (I don't suggest that).

I'm not sure about the 2005 Rams. You would have to contact CoastalTech for info on this.

MyGig Lockpick v2
http://www.coastaletech.com/MYGIG_ADAPTER.htm

MyGig Lockpikc 2.0 Installation Instructions:
http://www.coastaletech.com/media/MY...STRUCTIONS.pdf

For the Highspeed versions, you need the MyGig Lockpick v2.5. I don't have a direct link, but there was one on eBay at the time of this writing since they were just released.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123



Edit: late addition.

I wanted to add the following that someone responded to me with more instructions on how to replace the REC radio in a 2006 vehicle. I would assume this applies to 2007 REC models, as well:

The 06 vehicle with the REC - To install an RER unit in it, you would want/need:

1) The MyGig ADAPTER for the connections (no way around this);

http://cgi.ebay.com/TVandNav2Go-Chry...item4ceaa4d708

2) A low speed RER unit, like this one;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrys...fAudioQ5fVideo

3) Since the RER unit has the UConnect module built-in, you would only need this mic kit for that feature;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82211...fAudioQ5fVideo

4) Then, to use the Sirius tuner of the RER, you would disconnect your current Sirius antenna from the Sirius tuner (usually in back cargo area, hidden behind side panel), then plug this extension cable in one end, and to the RER unit with the other;

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrys...fAudioQ5fVideo


Edit again!...

More info from the same guy that responded above. Apparently he knows quite a bit info about this. I asked about using the original Sirius wire and the UConnect mic. Apparently they can't be used and need additional wiring, as stated above.

...
First, Chrysler had two styles of Sirius Tuners and antennas for your vehicle; The older style used two connectors, blue and white. To use this type with the RER extension cable, you would unplug it from the Sirius tuner, and need an antenna adapter, I do not sell). The newer type used a single yellow connector, which you would just unplug from the Sirius tuner, and plug into the extension cord.

(yes, your current REC has the Sirius tuner plugged into the center 10-pin connector - The Sirius tuner is normally in the rear cargo area)

As far as I know, there is no easy way to adapt your older Uconnect mirror, to the RER...
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Winching Technique Video

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 9:14 pm

Winching Technique Video

I found this on YouTube and it seemed pretty decent, particularly for those who are inexperienced using a winch (like myself). Some of it is basic techniques, but some of it seems more advanced. Plus, it's nice to see it done instead of just reading about it. It's long, something like 15 or 16 chapters, but worth watching I think. Also makes you realize how important a good recovery kit is.

Badlands Off Road Winch DVD - Winching techniques
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p ... EB241ECB71
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Adjusting T'case linkage

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 9:18 pm

Adjusting T'case linkage

Q Has anyone else found that when you are in 4hi or 4low in mud, snow or sand that just little axle hop is enough to slip into 2hi. It happens all the time in my truck.

A There is a Detent Plunger that runs on the shift lever, if you do not seat that plunger then it will jump out, this has happened to me a time or two, but when I went back to what I did I always realised that I did not put the lever all the way in the right position. If you are shore that your putting it in gear completely then the spring for that plunger my have collapsed and will not hold it in place.

Another cause may be if you jam the transfer case in gear very hard, then this can cause the linkage to come out of adjustment. You can try to re-adjust the lever and see if that fixes the problem.

If you look on page 7507 of 8410 in the service manual, it will tell you how to adjust the transfer case lever. Good luck, keep us updated.
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Borgeson steering shaft install

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 9:23 pm

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Alternator talk

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 9:27 pm

Alternator talk

The talk is about Hi output alternators, running 2 batteries, and running 2 alternators.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286225
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How to spool the winch cable in to re-wrap the rope evenly a

Postby Cactus Red » Sat May 26, 2012 9:28 pm

How to spool the winch cable in to re-wrap the rope evenly and properly.

http://blog.promarkoffroad.com/2010/03/ ... dium=email
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