How I Fixed My Code P0456
- Retired BLM Rig
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How I Fixed My Code P0456
Re: Check engine light on due to code P0456 (small evaporative system leak detected). All of this information applies to a 2008 PW, but the theory should apply to any vehicle (sometimes they change the name of system components from year to year).
It's been a couple months since my check engine light first came on because of this code. When I read what it was on my scanner, I cleared the code and checked my gas cap for tightness and forgot about it since it was nothing serious. But then it started repeating the same code every week or two, so I figured I better get to the bottom of it.
The most common failure is a bad rubber seal on the gas cap, even though I couldn't see any cracks or deformities, I decided to replace it since it was the original eight year old cap. I got an O.E. Mopar replacement, cleared the code again and waited to see if it would come back on. Sure enough, after a few more trips to work, the CEL popped back on with the same code.
Next on my diagnostic list was to carefully check all of the rubber and plastic lines in the evaporative system for cracks, splits or loose connections. I started at the evap/charcoal canisters mounted just in front of my fuel tank and followed each line to and from the canisters throughout the entire system. The hardest ones to check are on top of the fuel tank, but a good flashlight and mirror can help with those. I didn't find any problems with the lines, so now it was time to focus on components.
The first and most obvious component is the canister. It's pretty well protected between the frame rails, but you never know when a stray stone or piece of road debris may get kicked up there and damage something. Mine looked good with no signs of splits or cracks.
Every evap system has a vent/inlet somewhere, mine is above the transmission bell housing.
The cap is just an open restrictor to stop debris or bugs, like mud dobbers, from building a nest and plugging the vent line.
The next component inline is the filter, this is to stop any dust from entering the evaporative system. It's a mini air filter inside a plastic housing.
The next component is called the "Evaporative System Integrity Monitor" (ESIM for short). It locks on to the canister. This is a double weighted check valve that allows pressure venting or vacuum relief at predetermined pressures based on the weight of the check valves.
To remove the ESIM, lift up the locking tab and rotate it 45º clockwise.
There's an o-ring under the ESIM, make sure it doesn't get lost and check it's condition.
The ESIM is glued together and is supposed to be non serviceable . Looking inside the ESIM you can see that a layer of superfine dust made it past the filter media and took up residence on the check valve causing it not to seal.
My solution was to spray aerosol brake cleaner into the ESIM, shake it around and then quickly blow it out with compressed air. I did this two or three times until it looked clean. Make sure not to let the chemical sit for too long as it will ruin the rubber check valve (spray it in, shake and blow it out). The ESIM is available to purchase as an individual part for $30-40, but why buy it if you can clean it.
The next thing I did was blow out the vent filter and lines (a rather impressive cloud of dust). In fact it wouldn't be a bad idea to make this an annual maintenance item if your truck spends a lot of time off road or in dusty conditions.
It's been a couple weeks since I did all this work and so far no check engine light and no pending codes. If this hadn't fixed it, other components to check would include the purge solenoid valve (under the hood), fuel fill neck and hoses, fuel pump/sending unit & o-ring and finally the fuel tank.
After seven years of government work in the desert, the dust finally took its toll. Luckily I was able to find it and fix it with the investment of a little time and effort. I hope this will help someone else that may be experiencing the same problem and help save some money and a trip to the dealer/shop.
Happy New Year!!!
It's been a couple months since my check engine light first came on because of this code. When I read what it was on my scanner, I cleared the code and checked my gas cap for tightness and forgot about it since it was nothing serious. But then it started repeating the same code every week or two, so I figured I better get to the bottom of it.
The most common failure is a bad rubber seal on the gas cap, even though I couldn't see any cracks or deformities, I decided to replace it since it was the original eight year old cap. I got an O.E. Mopar replacement, cleared the code again and waited to see if it would come back on. Sure enough, after a few more trips to work, the CEL popped back on with the same code.
Next on my diagnostic list was to carefully check all of the rubber and plastic lines in the evaporative system for cracks, splits or loose connections. I started at the evap/charcoal canisters mounted just in front of my fuel tank and followed each line to and from the canisters throughout the entire system. The hardest ones to check are on top of the fuel tank, but a good flashlight and mirror can help with those. I didn't find any problems with the lines, so now it was time to focus on components.
The first and most obvious component is the canister. It's pretty well protected between the frame rails, but you never know when a stray stone or piece of road debris may get kicked up there and damage something. Mine looked good with no signs of splits or cracks.
Every evap system has a vent/inlet somewhere, mine is above the transmission bell housing.
The cap is just an open restrictor to stop debris or bugs, like mud dobbers, from building a nest and plugging the vent line.
The next component inline is the filter, this is to stop any dust from entering the evaporative system. It's a mini air filter inside a plastic housing.
The next component is called the "Evaporative System Integrity Monitor" (ESIM for short). It locks on to the canister. This is a double weighted check valve that allows pressure venting or vacuum relief at predetermined pressures based on the weight of the check valves.
To remove the ESIM, lift up the locking tab and rotate it 45º clockwise.
There's an o-ring under the ESIM, make sure it doesn't get lost and check it's condition.
The ESIM is glued together and is supposed to be non serviceable . Looking inside the ESIM you can see that a layer of superfine dust made it past the filter media and took up residence on the check valve causing it not to seal.
My solution was to spray aerosol brake cleaner into the ESIM, shake it around and then quickly blow it out with compressed air. I did this two or three times until it looked clean. Make sure not to let the chemical sit for too long as it will ruin the rubber check valve (spray it in, shake and blow it out). The ESIM is available to purchase as an individual part for $30-40, but why buy it if you can clean it.
The next thing I did was blow out the vent filter and lines (a rather impressive cloud of dust). In fact it wouldn't be a bad idea to make this an annual maintenance item if your truck spends a lot of time off road or in dusty conditions.
It's been a couple weeks since I did all this work and so far no check engine light and no pending codes. If this hadn't fixed it, other components to check would include the purge solenoid valve (under the hood), fuel fill neck and hoses, fuel pump/sending unit & o-ring and finally the fuel tank.
After seven years of government work in the desert, the dust finally took its toll. Luckily I was able to find it and fix it with the investment of a little time and effort. I hope this will help someone else that may be experiencing the same problem and help save some money and a trip to the dealer/shop.
Happy New Year!!!
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
X2waldo wrote:Good info and post. Thanks.
While we're on the subject, here is another P0456 code problem that I had a while back ...
http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... 456#p53100
2005 Power Wagon
- DamageWagon
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Thanks man, I'm going to have to try this on my truck. I'm having the same issues and its spent a lot of time in dust and mud. Great write up, hopefully to something easy on mine as well!
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
WOW!
This is the best "how to fix" write up of anything I have seen .
In focus photos with proper lighting.
Arrows and comments for details.
How to do it and materials to use procedure.
In school terms a "100%" grade.
Future articles suggestions:
Replace broken exhaust studs.
Tie rod ends and ball joint troubleshoot (and replace).
How to grease driveshaft.
Tranny and diff service.
And if that isn't enough:
How to fix "serv4wd" light for under $100.00. ( This might be a challenge.)
This is the best "how to fix" write up of anything I have seen .
In focus photos with proper lighting.
Arrows and comments for details.
How to do it and materials to use procedure.
In school terms a "100%" grade.
Future articles suggestions:
Replace broken exhaust studs.
Tie rod ends and ball joint troubleshoot (and replace).
How to grease driveshaft.
Tranny and diff service.
And if that isn't enough:
How to fix "serv4wd" light for under $100.00. ( This might be a challenge.)
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
AWESOME write up,pics & commentary !
And really, what is the actual purpose of all that plastic crap ?
And really, what is the actual purpose of all that plastic crap ?
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
A simple concept gone crazy by regulation.
What started as a charcoal filter to absorb gas fumes has become this system. I had no idea all this stuff was even there.
Plastic = cheap to make ....sure to fail....expensive to replace.
What started as a charcoal filter to absorb gas fumes has become this system. I had no idea all this stuff was even there.
Plastic = cheap to make ....sure to fail....expensive to replace.
- BigRed2007
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Great write up. Hopefully I'll be able to find it when I get a chance to try to fix that code. I've had it for at least the last five years....
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Flame Red 07 PW - BIG RED
White Knuckle Offroad Rock Sliders, Volant Intake, LightForce 210 HID x2, HiLift Mounted on Tool Box, Locker Bypass, OBA - EXTREMAIRE Magnum, High Idle, 315/70/17 MTR/Ks, ARB Front Bumper, Synthetic Winch Rope, 3000 Watt Inverter, Carli Performance 2.0 Front end and rear shocks, DT PROFAB Steering brace and Steering Stabilizer,Carli Front Diff Gaurd, 12v Fridge Freezer, Dual Optima Yellow Tops, AirFlow Snorkle, Magnaflow Muffler and Y-Pipe, 2x50W Solar Panels, DOR Control Arms.
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White Knuckle Offroad Rock Sliders, Volant Intake, LightForce 210 HID x2, HiLift Mounted on Tool Box, Locker Bypass, OBA - EXTREMAIRE Magnum, High Idle, 315/70/17 MTR/Ks, ARB Front Bumper, Synthetic Winch Rope, 3000 Watt Inverter, Carli Performance 2.0 Front end and rear shocks, DT PROFAB Steering brace and Steering Stabilizer,Carli Front Diff Gaurd, 12v Fridge Freezer, Dual Optima Yellow Tops, AirFlow Snorkle, Magnaflow Muffler and Y-Pipe, 2x50W Solar Panels, DOR Control Arms.
KE0BZG
WQUY939
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Excellent write up!
PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14, '20, '22
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22, Summer '23, Summer '24,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14, '20, '22
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22, Summer '23, Summer '24,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Thanks for the feedback guys!
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
- adeluca73
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Very thorough. What a giant PIA for a system that's much like a vestigial organ....useless
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Retired BLM Rig wrote:Thanks for the feedback guys!
Thats the OLD MIMITW. You got to update !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KqjvM7r2xY
- DamageWagon
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
So I followed your information there over the weekend and cleaned out my ESIM/NVLD. I took some pictures so people could see a little more. Brake cleaner and air dos perfect, it was obvious how much better it moves now. There is still dust inside it somehow that I can't get out. Oh well. You were right about how much dirt gets in that filter! I swiped my finger inside the ESIM to show the fine layer of dust that accumulates.
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
So I followed your information there over the weekend and cleaned out my ESIM/NVLD. I took some pictures so people could see a little more. Brake cleaner and air dos perfect, it was obvious how much better it moves now. There is still dust inside it somehow that I can't get out. Oh well. You were right about how much dirt gets in that filter! I swiped my finger inside the ESIM to show the fine layer of dust that accumulates.
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- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
I know you had more than one code, but I hope that's all it was for you too. Time will tell.
Last edited by Retired BLM Rig on Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
- stamm20
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Great write up thanks man!!! I have a few EVAP codes in right now
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07 Brilliant Black Power Wagon
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles
Current Mods: 35x12.50x17 Kelly Fierce Attitude M/T, DiabloSport Predator tuner, 3in Super 40 with 3in dump, TPS bypass, Pioneer touch screen Nav System with ipod hookup, Carli front diff gaurd, Fox adjustable steering stabilizer, Mopar steering box upgrade weathertec floor mats, Fox 2.0 performance shocks, hardwired lockers, evo swaybar disconnect
Yea Though I wheel through the valley of the shadow of death,
I will fear no evil: For thou lockers are with me;
Thy lift and thy tires, they comfort me.
Thou preparest a spotter before me in the presence of mine obstacles
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
No codes, but now, even the slow flowing gas station pumps are shutting off every 30 seconds, as I try to fill the gas tank.
-> Any tips for how to remove the filter, so I can blow air out the vent tube?
-> Any tips for how to remove the filter, so I can blow air out the vent tube?
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
It's just held on by one or two 10mm hex fasteners, very simple to remove and blow out. Be prepared for a large dust cloud.
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Well it's been 4-1/2 years since my original post and my check engine light came back on for this same code a couple months ago. I have a mandatory smog test coming up next month, so I figured I better get to the bottom of it. I revisited all the same diagnostic procedures as discussed originally, but to no avail. It came down to having to do a smoke test on my evaporative system to find the source of the new leak. It was such a small leak on top of the fuel tank, I had a hard time finding it.
A smoke machine generates smoke for a visual aid in locating a leak, but there's also a flow meter. There's high flow while the system is being pressurized, but if it's truly sealed then it should slowly decrease to zero flow. The only way I was able to achieve zero flow was to push down on one of the plastic lines on top of the fuel tank. After using a mirror to get a closer look, I could see that one of the plastic fittings was cracked on top of the liquid/vapor separator. Time for a new fuel tank.
I debated trying to see if I could repair the leak, but after discovering that a new tank was still available, I decided to just bite the bullet and be done with chasing leaks in an old, dry, brittle, plastic tank.
It's been a week since I did the repairs, no codes, no check engine light. Now it's ready for the biannual smog test.
A smoke machine generates smoke for a visual aid in locating a leak, but there's also a flow meter. There's high flow while the system is being pressurized, but if it's truly sealed then it should slowly decrease to zero flow. The only way I was able to achieve zero flow was to push down on one of the plastic lines on top of the fuel tank. After using a mirror to get a closer look, I could see that one of the plastic fittings was cracked on top of the liquid/vapor separator. Time for a new fuel tank.
I debated trying to see if I could repair the leak, but after discovering that a new tank was still available, I decided to just bite the bullet and be done with chasing leaks in an old, dry, brittle, plastic tank.
It's been a week since I did the repairs, no codes, no check engine light. Now it's ready for the biannual smog test.
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Great stuff! I spend a good amount of time on dry dusty roads and at 94,000 miles, it’s only a matter of time before this code emerges! Thanks so much for all the info…and further info!
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
So I've had a roaming evap light. Started with cap, then a small leak. Had dealer fix it while getting an oil change and a day later I get a large leak!
So I finally got around to opening my evap smoker.... didn't even take a whole minute to find this
It's the line right in the middle of the fuel tank, which I can't find so I'll probably cut it out and slip some hose in there.
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So I finally got around to opening my evap smoker.... didn't even take a whole minute to find this
It's the line right in the middle of the fuel tank, which I can't find so I'll probably cut it out and slip some hose in there.
Sent from my SM-A015A using Tapatalk
2010 black pearl(PXR) on 35s, bypass harness, gooseneck, CAI, 3" magnaflow catback, bulldog hemi GT.... more to come soon
- Retired BLM Rig
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
2008 Quad Cab - Stock RTI = 655, curb weight = 6081 lbs. Abel Components Plug & Play Locker Bypass®, Abel Components Full SmartBar Bypass®, Abel Components Nanny Kill Switch®, 2000 Watt ProMariner TruePower Plus Pure Sine Wave Inverter, Trailer Hitch Storage, MOLLE Door Panels, Wilton Hitch Vice, Locking Under Seat Storage Drawer, Smittybilt 2781 Air Compressor, 14K PullPal, Hi-Lift First Responder Jack, 25' Jumper Cable System, Slip Yoke Eliminator in a Can, Evolution vs. God, Share the Umbrella, Make sure you're right with God before you meet him!
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
I had the same problem on my Grand Cherokee. To replace the line. You have to buy the whole fuel tank. I cut the bad section out, and used a fuel line hose and 2 hose clamps. Had a critter chewing on the line at my stepson's place up in Bailey Co.jeep_boy02 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 26, 2021 1:46 amSo I've had a roaming evap light. Started with cap, then a small leak. Had dealer fix it while getting an oil change and a day later I get a large leak!
So I finally got around to opening my evap smoker.... didn't even take a whole minute to find this
It's the line right in the middle of the fuel tank, which I can't find so I'll probably cut it out and slip some hose in there.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14, '20, '22
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22, Summer '23, Summer '24,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
2008 POWER WAGON RC
My build thread. http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2826
Moab '09, '10, '12, '14, '20, '22
Rausch Creek - Summer '10, Spring-Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14, Summer '15, Summer '16, Summer '17, Summer '18, Summer '20, Summer '22, Summer '23, Summer '24,
AOAA Summer '19.
Russ
NRA - Benefactor, Golden Eagle.
- jeep_boy02
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Re: How I Fixed My Code P0456
Yep, cut out 2" and slipped on a 4" piece of vacuum hose. Cinched it down with a couple zip ties. Back to no MIL and and no CEL
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2010 black pearl(PXR) on 35s, bypass harness, gooseneck, CAI, 3" magnaflow catback, bulldog hemi GT.... more to come soon