I read this particular post as MoparToYou asking both Don or myself to build these things, if I read that wrong then just disregard - not trying to start anything new with you Don. I'll have more info than already posted in our vendor section soon.
MoparToYou wrote:
Build us a set of rear control arms with good solid johnny joints instead of the big soft rubber bushings that allow the axle wrap / hop to occur. Make the arms adjustable, and able to be used both on stock trucks and on lifted trucks. And make them stout enough to be used for towing and hauling, which we still do with our Power Wagons.
Already in progress. Had to have the ball centers machined and should have them in a couple of weeks. I have my machine shop backed up pretty good right now. Stout won't be a question.
MoparToYou wrote:
Build us a set of high clearance front radius arms that have bushings with a higher durometer material, and articu-links with a higher durometer material, to help prevent front axle wrap / hop, which is just as bad as rear axle wrap / hop on these trucks. Have the front radius arms incorporate a skid plate on the front to protect them from damage, because the stock radius arms hang way down there, and function as a rock magnet the way they are now. Make the radius arms usable on both stock and lifted trucks, or sell two versions, for stock and lifted.
Already done, we have a bunch at a local powder coating place right now and I'll take pics when we get them back. Too big for our oven, but I have a new oven being built to fix that. Ours are good from stock to 6" lift, they are high clearance, adjustable axle position and adjustable caster. Johnny Joints at the frame and for the upper arm. Looking at coming up with some bushing replacements for the axle but we're a ways out on that. Radius arms are a rock magnet regardless, but you will never put a dent in these. All 3/8" construction, fully boxed and gusseted. 96 lbs each. lol Seriously. We're also working on a long arm/4 link setup that will bolt in, no cutting required. That will be the hot ticket for ground clearance and off road performance.
MoparToYou wrote:When you build a lift for these trucks, keep in mind those of us that haul or tow with our trucks. I looked at the trip meter on my digital dash computer that shows how many miles I have had a trailer hooked up to my truck, and since purchase of the truck, fully 1/3 of the miles on my truck have been with a trailer on the back. I don't want a lift that lifts the front of the truck a lot more than the rear of the truck, because those lifts make our trucks look like a girl dog squatting to pee when we hook a trailer to it. Build a lift with two different rear lift options if you must.
Totally agree with that; I fight it a lot. "Level" is different to people. To me, the rear sits about 1" to 1.5" higher than the front, so when you weigh the back down, you aren't brodozing all over the place. Nose high makes the steering floaty and makes wheeling hard, it's already hard enough to see over the hood when you are climbing over things. Every suspension we make has a little rake where the rear is higher, unless a customer asks for something different. With all of the "stance" diesel trucks now, a lot more customers seem to want the front about 2" higher than the rear, but I try to keep them from doing it as much as I can. Function is way more important than having a certain look.
Mr.Smith wrote:Danny...temporarily frustrated, but I got off cheap comparatively, affordable lesson learned.
Glad that Don got you squared away, sorry again for not sticking to the build/ship times. Thanks for being cool about it.
And thanks everyone for the mature discussion here. It's a nice change from other forums and is a big part of the reason I signed up on here years ago.