Power Wagon Registry

I am starting a new build. I purchased a set of Ram 2500 steel wheels in 17x7.5. These are the same wheels used for the spare tire. I plan is to cut the centers out and weld them into 17x9 wheel hoops with the correct backspacing then convert them to either true bead locks or simulated bead locks. The plan is to mount Toyo M/T's in 37x13.5r17 with a Carli Suspension lift. Let the measuring begin.

Seems like an awful lot of trouble to go through for fake beadlocks, or real beadlocks without a warranty. I know this sounds like a dick question, but I'm genuinely curious; what's the point?


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Just send them out and have them converted: https://www.omfperformance.com/beadlock ... rsions.php

I like the idea. What's wrong with a little imagination? Remember the 50's and 60's? People willing to work on their own stuff. I've considered the same think for the aluminum wheels.

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Steel wheels are great for being out of round. Unless this will be a trail only rig you are taking ten steps back so you can take two forward.

Yes, everything made of steel is out of round, only the Chinese can make round things round.
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Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

But in all seriousness, with the work you plan on doing, there shouldn't be any issues. My friends have cut and widen steel wheels for the drag strip with no issues from it being non centric aka "out of round". They have had speeds well over 110 MPH. So if done with care you shouldn't have any issues. Besides, if it was easy, everyone would do it!

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

Pit Slave wrote:Yes, everything made of steel is out of round, only the Chinese can make round things round.
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Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

Round

Yes it will be a lot of trouble, but it's also going to be a challenge. I am used to people giving me grief on my ideas and projects until I am done then they want me to build it for them. I decided on steel wheels because I use my PW for its original intent. Steel wheels may have there disadvantages but they also have many advantages over aluminum. I have decided to build a hybrid wheel basically a simulated bead lock with a bolt on ring. This will serve as a heavy duty wheel lip that can take off road abuse. As far as OMF goes I have used them in the past, great company but they don't work on steel wheels.

Pit Slave wrote:But in all seriousness, with the work you plan on doing, there shouldn't be any issues. My friends have cut and widen steel wheels for the drag strip with no issues from it being non centric aka "out of round". They have had speeds well over 110 MPH. So if done with care you shouldn't have any issues. Besides, if it was easy, everyone would do it!

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

Do you think the OP is building a drag car and did your friends use the wheels from old spare tires? Steelies may start out round but wheel them hard and they won't be round/true for long. Great for dedicated offroad only. BTDT.

It must be a Jersey thing. They drag race their off road daily driver. But then again, we tend to "smoke" balance the wheels too....

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

I find after a few mud holes your wheels will have never been balanced as well prior.

The tires came in today and I got my inner and outer rings cut out of 3/16 steel. They look pretty good just sitting in the tire. Hopefully the wheel hoops will be here tomorrow and I can start cutting wheels apart.

Cool project, excited to see the end product

Where there's a will, there's a way!

I'm checking this post daily!! Good on ya for doing something the hard way. Gonna be awesome!

You're going to love those tires. Unless you want 300 miles to a tank lol.

Why did you choose the Ram wheels, if you're cutting the lip and going beadlock and welding new hoops? At that point there isn't much left of the factory wheel. Trying to keep the factory look? I think it will be a cool outcome but I have to ask why the odd choice

By using the factory steel wheel I have the same factory profile and the factory center cap will work without any issue. The goal is to have an all black "factory" wheel with a beadlock only with the proper width and offset for the Toyos. Plus I like a challenge and the head scratchs. These are the center caps I got off of EBay.

They are going to look awesome. Keep the pics coming.

After a lot of work the wheels have been sandblasted and re-centered into the new hoops. The next step is welding the new inner rings and making sure everything is true. Gone are the 17x7.5 steel wheels with a redicoulous backspacing of 6.25. The wheels are now 17x9 with a 5.5 backspacing. This should provide enough offset to run the 13.5 inch wide Toyos without rubbing the radius arm (My PW is a 2015) and the backside of the front fender flare with the Carli lift kit. Tomorrow night I will get the welding done then off to powder coat.

On my last trail drive I banged my bumper into a rock and bent the bottom half of the bumper a little. I found another bumper and decided a few weeks ago that it would be the perfect test piece to find a powder coater in my area. I had them powder coat the bumper with texture black powder coat and it was exactly what I was going for. I stripped the front end off my truck painted the grill inserts, and the front emblem gloss black. I also had the front toe hooks powder coated gloss black and put it all back together. My body shop guy even tinted the headlights and fog lights. I like the way it turned out and I think it will go well with the all black wheels.

YES. Menacing, I like it very much.

Let's see that topo pattern on the hood!

Yeah, I smoked 'em, sometimes you just gotta #sendit

It's from my service in 5th Special Forces Group, hence the crest in the corner. Carried the same theme on the tailgate. It's hard to see in the photos but the tailgate letters have the topo lines in the letters to match the hood.

What part of Texas are you in? I split my time between Houston and the hill country. Thanks for your service sir!