nts007 wrote:I'm not saying though that a bad tire isn't possible. It's just not as common as some tire shops will make you believe. Tire build quality is pretty good these days. I've had a set of general grabber red letter tires that all 4 took exactly 4oz to balance on exactly the same place on each tire. And having a bunch of wheel weights on tires and rims like ours hurts nothing. Just aesthetics. Is your vibration a fast resonance type? Does it go and come at different speed? A tire one will start and increase constantly as speed increases. A driveline vibration will start and get worse or disappear at higher speed. So many moving parts.....really curious to find out though. I'd really be Leary about what the shops version of balanced is. For example if you get it balanced say within 1% at 10mph that's 6% variance at 60mph. And due to the mass of our tires we tend to be on the Higher side of the percentage. A good shop can balance to 0.1 to 0.3% if they want to. And keep in mind balancing a 24-28" race car tire is far more forgiving to balance with a 0.3% error due to far far less centrifugal force due to mass and size.
Sorry I'm droning on lol. I've had many many arguments with tire shops and it always ends up being either a inexperienced operator or a cheap ass machine that is calibrated to 0.6 or greater error. Cheap machines that work fine for the majority. Again not saying your situation or shops are like that. Hope you get it figured. Keep us posted
DamageWagon wrote:What's your tire pressure? Are all your lug nuts tight?
nts is on the ball again with nailing down which axle and what rpm range and characteristics it has. It might take a few weeks of feeling different terrains but you can usually nail exactly which part is causing the problem. Swapping tires between axles is a great start.
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nts007 wrote:Nice pics!! Snow and blue sky. Love it. Hope you can get it sorted tire wise. I'm really Curious what it turns out to be
olyelr wrote:Nice pics!
Did you swap tires around again before your trip? If so, anything change?
DamageWagon wrote:Love the pics, wish I could make it up there soon!
Do you happen to have pictures of your rock sliders and how they are welded to the frame? I'm about to start on a set. Mounting to the frame looks pretty annoying on this truck.
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coder wrote:Here's the link to the RAM 2016 2500 Truck Wheels, Lug Nuts & Wheel Valves specs. If you convert the 182-202 Newton meters (why they use this I don't know) to foot pounds you end up with a recommended torque range of 134-148 ft. lbs. for your lug nuts. Looks like 170 ft. lbs. is a bit tight be careful you don't break a stud.
TruckerZoom wrote:looking for better tires for my ride. which is better: KO2 or Toyo? any feedback would be appreciated
coder wrote:Looks great, how do you like em so far? In my humble opinion 35" are the best all-around size for stock PW. If you can pick-up a tuner to recalibrate the speedometer it makes a big difference in drivability even with 35's...
olyelr wrote:Hey, is that dirt on the front side of your rear trackbar?
yellowranger1 wrote:Im down to 50 psi front and rear. I'm going to try dropping a few more psi and find the sweet spot for empty driving around town. What do you run in your ATs?
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