Power Wagon Registry

exciting!

According to one of the folks on the facebook group he's still got the spacers in. Good luck on the new family addition. May it bring you more sanity than my two have lol

gun45boat wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:05 pm

Good weld!!!!!! You planning on Baja/Desert Racing/jumping your rig?

Did you go ahead and weld up the axle tubes to the Housing?

Ha I totally missed these updates, thanks man! That was the first pass, I added a weave after that. Yes the axle tubes are welded they MUST BE WELDED or the whole point of the truss is moot. The truss works by changing the component of force from being a torque that bends the axle, to moving the torque to the truss and changing the force on the axle to being a compression that wants to shove the tubes into the diff housing, that is how t functions on a tube-style like Thuren's. If you don’t weld the tubes, then if you take a really big hit you will shove the tubes into the housing.

The axles on the 14+ trucks are more prone to bending than the earlier trucks because they add two more joints in the axle assembly because of the CAD housing. Rotating the tubes can happen on the front axle with big tires so that was also something big we are trying to prevent.

NickTF wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:13 am

According to one of the folks on the facebook group he's still got the spacers in. Good luck on the new family addition. May it bring you more sanity than my two have lol

I like how I've been relagated to "one of the guys on the facebook group", lol. That was me. I brought pizza and hung out while they did the truss and started the Kings. I then got cold, bored, and sleepy.

He did bring pizza and good company ^^^^

Some photos of the goods, installed!!!

I am really loving the shocks. Don has these dialed in perfectly. We started with Stage 3 valving and then adjusted for slower speed hits, crawling and general offroading that I like to do. On road, these shocks are fantastic. Offroad, they're freaking AMAZEBALLS! Really soak up the hits. Drops off of ledges are nice and soft. The "touch down" or "landing" when you come off a ledge is like a soft bounce with easy rebound. Side to side rocking is completely gone. Overall the truck just feels so much more stable.

Washboard roads are smooth as pavement. And at speed, they're a lot of fun. But on the small, annoying stuff, Thuren has these dialed in perfectly!

What rotors did you go with?

Awesome ones

Did your rotors need replacing, or did you just opt for an upgrade? I know that I typically replace mine ~80k miles...

TankerZak wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 10:36 am

NickTF wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:13 am

According to one of the folks on the facebook group he's still got the spacers in. Good luck on the new family addition. May it bring you more sanity than my two have lol

I like how I've been relagated to "one of the guys on the facebook group", lol. That was me. I brought pizza and hung out while they did the truss and started the Kings. I then got cold, bored, and sleepy.

Don't feel bad, I suck just as badly with separating names from forum names in real life!

Bill2014 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:02 am

Did your rotors need replacing, or did you just opt for an upgrade? I know that I typically replace mine ~80k miles...

About the same here. They looked pretty good, I didn't measure the thickness, but I planned on replacing them anyhow. We've put a lot of miles on the PW. We're almost to 80k in another 8k miles or so. Hard to believe we bought her with only 32k on the clock.

I'm starting to think about all the preventative 100k stuff now.

Thanks to DamageWagon, I also greased the axles using the ABS holes.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:11 pm

Awesome ones

Sweet thanks.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:00 pm

Thanks to DamageWagon, I also greased the axles using the ABS holes.

Axles?

olyelr wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:09 pm

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:11 pm

Awesome ones

Sweet thanks.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:00 pm

Thanks to DamageWagon, I also greased the axles using the ABS holes.

Axles?

He can explain it....

They are just generic Power Stop rotors. Nothing special.

olyelr wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:09 pm

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:11 pm

Awesome ones

Sweet thanks.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:00 pm

Thanks to DamageWagon, I also greased the axles using the ABS holes.

Axles?

I think he means the unit bearings.

That's what I meant.

So anyhow, have my first legitimate problem, that is probably my fault from an attempted fix on the trail. Got the old blinking 4WD/Sway Bar selector on a trip out to the Oyhwees on Saturday. Noticed the connector was a big loose and jammed it back in the best I could on the trail, but no luck.

Well, came home and cleaned it, didn't look closely enough, long story short, 3 of the pins on the lower 30 pin (or however many) are damaged. Also some corrosion in the unit.

So right now, I have no sway bar or locker functionality.....

I've got two options really, figure out how to wire this crap and go around the connector. Or, buy a replacement, or hard wire the lockers....

So I might hardwire the lockers, not 100% sure.

Fix the plug and then correctly apply dielectric grease.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:31 pm

Fix the plug and then correctly apply dielectric grease.

I'm not sure it is fixable on this end. I have 3 damaged pins. As in broke off.

In my opinion, fix/replace it correctly, then hardwire. Full control of your lockers is tits. 2wd and 4hi locked make for a more versatile truck. You can pretty easily hardwire without hacking up the oem wiring.

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:38 pm

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:31 pm

Fix the plug and then correctly apply dielectric grease.

I'm not sure it is fixable on this end. I have 3 damaged pins. As in broke off.

Find a way to fix it. Despite how lame the smart bar is it is central to the whole PW system, regardless if you hard wire or not.

I can rebuild it. It's not the first time. For me it's a straight forward rebuild. I do the harness as well.

Using this pinout diagram can you identify which pins are broken?
http://connectors.dcctools.com/details. ... 39&print=1
Keep in mind this is the connector side so everything is a mirror image of the SmartBar.
It's hard to tell in your picture which pins are broken, but based on the diagram pin I.D. #A4, A5 & B3 dont connect to anything. Any chance those are the pins you suspect are broken? Maybe they're missing on purpose,

Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:44 pm

Using this pinout diagram can you identify which pins are broken?
http://connectors.dcctools.com/details. ... 39&print=1
Keep in mind this is the connector side so everything is a mirror image of the SmartBar.
It's hard to tell in your picture which pins are broken, but based on the diagram pin I.D. #A4, A5 & B3 dont connect to anything. Any chance those are the pins you suspect are broken? Maybe they're missing on purpose,

There were at least two actual broken pins that fell out in there.

I have a lead on a full assembly spare I can pick up for dirt cheap.

B10 is def broken

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:03 am

I have a lead on a full assembly spare I can pick up for dirt cheap.

From the FSM.
NOTE: When replacing the disconnecting stabilizer
bar with a new bar you must use a scan tool to
program the new stabilizer bar to the vehicle.

Retired BLM Rig wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 13, 2018 1:27 am

MikeKey wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:03 am

I have a lead on a full assembly spare I can pick up for dirt cheap.

From the FSM.
NOTE: When replacing the disconnecting stabilizer
bar with a new bar you must use a scan tool to
program the new stabilizer bar to the vehicle.

God damn it. Why is everything a pain in the ass. I was hoping just to remove the end where the connector was and swap them. That's probably got a printed circuit board behind it.