Power Wagon Registry

That is literally nothing. So I don't know where I heard it then.

But I keep getting asked everywhere about if I'm "concerned with it sagging" - someone asked me yesterday on the "other stupid" FB Group if I had considered Carli because of the weight.

I expect it with the hitch weight, but I'm not expecting anything more compared to factory. I think I was about .75 with the factory and my setup. I need to dig through my photos, because I took a picture of the measurements somewhere. But it was almost nothing, but it was perceivable to me and kept driving me nuts, which is why I added the 1-inch spacer.

They're soft rate coils, if you put a lot of weight in the bed or on the tongue the rear will squat. If that's a problem consider keeping your stock coils or installing airbags. My truck was almost completely level at static weight so I went with a 1" spacer. I thought I would like the level look but the truck didn't look proportional. The coils weren't sagging though.

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 07, 2018 1:56 pm

They're soft rate coils, if you put a lot of weight in the bed or on the tongue the rear will squat. If that's a problem consider keeping your stock coils or installing airbags. My truck was almost completely level at static weight so I went with a 1" spacer. I thought I would like the level look but the truck didn't look proportional. The coils weren't sagging though.

Did you drop the bumpstop anymore with the 1” spacer?


Mike, for installing the rear boogies do you need to remove the factory pw bumpstop spacer?

No, it isn't necessary.

Got my front track bar now too. Suddenly the weather here in Boise has gone cold. So I might just be waiting till I drive out to Portland to get my Thuren truss installed by Marcus to do the install.

i also promised Marcus I'd detail our trucks. LOL

I do need to make up my mind about the spacer and stuff. Even the Boogies, if I have to go to bags. Well... I dunno. I am going to experiment, and I'll post up what happens for me. And whoever wants to know can know and make their own decisions.

Since I have both a trailer and a tent setup, I can get feedback on two scenarios.

Yes. Your feedback would be very much appreciated.

If I were towing I'd go straight to airbags, even with WD.

WD hitch with sway control is certainly not the be all-end all for towing. If you tow heavy new springs/helper springs &/or air bags are in your future.

TwinStick wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 15, 2018 7:12 pm

WD hitch with sway control is certainly not the be all-end all for towing. If you tow heavy new springs/helper springs &/or air bags are in your future.

I was able to get the truck perfectly level with just a WD hitch originally with a few passes and adjustments over a cat scale.

So, we shall see how Thuren's coils do vs stock. I tow an Airstream, so advantage to weight.

oh here we go with the airstreeeeeem perfect towing mojo....













Yea i would run it with just your new suspension setup and see. Then IF that didnt work out well enough, adding bags are easy enough (except they take up the same realestate as those boogies!).

At a secret location in Oregon, I met up with DamageWagon to get a Thuren Axle Truss welded onto the front axle... Now it's time to crash.

How close is the truss to your diff guard?

Reloaderguy wrote: ↑

Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:41 am

How close is the truss to your diff guard?

About this close...

We ended up not needing to change any diff fluid.

Thanks for the picture.

Good weld!!!!!! You planning on Baja/Desert Racing/jumping your rig?

Did you go ahead and weld up the axle tubes to the Housing?

No, I’m slow. But I don’t want to break stuff or have axle tubes spinning with 40’s.

And, yes. DamageWagon did the work. I’d post more photos but the weather has been crap. 3 inches of snow. As soon as it melts I’ll update the thread.

I wrote to Don to have my Kings tuned for slower rock crawling stuff. Potholes and hard drops and things. Should be better on washboard roads, but Baja was not my intention.

Remember you have less ground clearance under the front axle now. You’ll hit and scrape where you didn’t before.

you’re a smart guy and probably already know that, but from personal experience I know it takes a while to adjust.

Yep, it will kinda be like you went back to 35’s (ground clearance-wise).

Keep the pics a-rollin’! Oh hell another video wouldnt hurt either

True True.. I ran 42" Trep stickies for a while and truly tested the limits of the AAM front/rear axles Between the RCV's/Chromo Yukon R Shafts and ARB's (blah blah) and the best gear sets money can buy, I found that the weak point on the front and rear axles are ONLY the odds of Spinning Axles tubes. Mainly the rear (even while running the Double Triangulated rear links) I found that the rear tubes popped the factory Spot welds holding the tubes, so luckily I caught it before it gave and welded the FARK out of the housing tubes etc.

The front is a different story. It held up great to the abuse with numberous times of having my front end hit/ bounce/launch over 4' to 5' in the air countless times over rocks and coming down hard under full throttle etc.etc. The front axle is still straight and true,,, with welded Tube/housing (the same as the rear) Weak point on the front axle is the ball joints (easily curable with the upgrades) The front axles will ALSO need the LCA mounts Beef'ed with 1/4" steel to act as a "skid plate" Best to do this before you slam the bastards in the rocks and bend them.

Now,,if you want to get into the nitty gritty of these trucks,,, I will say (after many years of wheeling the FARK out of my Ram) the weak link is the Transfer case (over time) I feel that the axles (fully beef'ed) are stronger than the T-Case. Which in turn, Makes the T-case your "fuse" in the drivetrain. With that said,,, I always hope that my Front driveshaft pops before it takes out the T-case (that is why I carry spare Front Driveshaft)

With the above stated I sold my 42" Trep sticks, and went back to 40" Trep Sticks, for the simple reason of Reliability and durability. Trep Sticks are the equivalent of running 42" non sticky tires (as far as traction load on the drivetrain,,,, and wheeling style) and are easier on the front axle

I am always searching for more ground clearance, and less "rock grabbers" on the Drivetrain. (thus why my last rear axle was Shaved) and always searching for ways to lighten my rig. Ma boys in California that desert race their rams, do run the front axle truss that you just installed for that purpose only, thats why I asked what your wheeling purpose/build is going to be.

BTW, I'm digging your Camper tailer,,, nothing beats a AirStream,, They say that you can drop those things off a bridge in the water and the bastard will float indefinitly (quality water tight build)

Holy Shit man,,,, I just realized you are the Guy that did the Chevy Trailblazer build back a bunch of years ago.. You were the only one that actually did this type of build.. I followed you years ago during that build... Small World man....... You did a great job on that Trailblazer. I don't usually "follow" many people (and still don't) but I did during your build on that TB... welcome to the PW world,,,, Stoked that you are here!!!!!!

gun45boat wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 27, 2018 6:42 am

Holy Shit man,,,, I just realized you are the Guy that did the Chevy Trailblazer build back a bunch of years ago.. You were the only one that actually did this type of build.. I followed you years ago during that build... Small World man....... You did a great job on that Trailblazer. I don't usually "follow" many people (and still don't) but I did during your build on that TB... welcome to the PW world,,,, Stoked that you are here!!!!!!

Yup, that is me. I like weird and unique builds. I've been here for two years

I've gotta change fluids, rotate tires and stuff, so I'll get some better pictures. Waiting for the weather to warm back up.

So for those curious about Thuren's coils and squat...

Today I took a few measurements. Starting position was with just my Dethloff Contour Rack, all 3 cross bars and my Ramboxes full of their usual contents. Estimated around 130lbs. Full tank of gas also.

Measurement came in with fender height at 45 3/4 inches



Then I added my 37-inch toyo spare tire, which I usually bring along with me.

Measurement came in at 45 1/2 inches.



Then I added 200lbs of weights to the bed of the truck which should simulate our usual camping gear + RTT.



Squat measurement came in at 45 1/16th of an inch.





I'm feeling pretty confident with the current setup, that the truck will be fine with the rooftop tent and our camping gear.

After that, I hitched up the Airstream, leaving all the weights and stuff in the bed of the truck.



Kinda sorta level, kinda not. The squat measurement was 43 1/2 inches with the front of the truck raising from it's normal 43 1/2 inch to 44 inches. I adjusted the hitch best I could, but I currently need to replace the drop shank. The airstream is nose high by 2 inches. So I'm going to have to order a new drop shank and come back to this test. And then I'll tow her to the Cat Scales with the weights to see what the axles are doing.

Hitch weight btw, last time I was across the cat scales was around 960lbs.



I didn't take before measurements with the stock coils. Just completely forgot to get to it.

More updates later.

Nice, very useful info there!

Yes thanks for the info!

The measurements with the Airstream... is that with the weight distribution bars hooked up?

And are you still using the rear 1" spacer with Thurens coils?

Yes WD bars are installed. Since the Airstream itself isn't level, however, I need to get the new drop shank so that I can find out how the weight is being distributed. I'll order a new one this week and try again on the weekend, unless the wifey has the baby this week.