Reloaderguy's Build Thread - 2016 Laramie Power Wagon

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Reloaderguy's Build Thread - 2016 Laramie Power Wagon

Post by Reloaderguy » Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:29 pm

Finally decided to put it all in one place. The Journey begins...

Here she is, a couple of miles from the dealership on my drive back to Oregon.
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I ordered tires and wheels on my way home, I had been planning 37's since I decided on a Power Wagon. Most of the miles I put on the stock wheels and tires were during the 6 hour drive home. I'm selling the wheels and tires if anyone is interested.

A little trimming and they fit just fine.
KMC XD128 17x9 +18mm Offset. Toyo RT 37x12.5x17
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Here are how the factory coils look brand new.
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I'm not a fan of the cable and hook hanging out of the bumper.
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Cleaned up the truck after a climbing trip. I didn't like the door badges and B pillar decals. I may end of taking off the badges on the tailgate but haven't decided yet. I like the clean look but not completely blank.
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Ram needs to improve their headlights; the projectors work ok but they do not put out much useable light and what light there is is yellow. The '15+ model Ram trucks have an light-out error system that makes aftermarket light systems difficult. DDM recently released a very simple, yet affordable, plug and play Canbus kit. For less than $90 per side ($180 total for highs and lows), I installed 35W HID. The difference is pretty impressive.

Here is the grill and lights removed. On another forum users claim you can remove the headlight without taking out the grill using a long extension but there is an adjuster in the lower headlight mount. If you don't remove the grill you can't match the gap above and below the headlight.
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Here is how I mounted the ballasts. The driver and passenger sides are different so I used different locations. The kit comes with screws but I used self tappers into the sheet metal subframe. The driver side shows a ziptie that I cut once the tappers were tight.
Driver Side:
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Passenger Side:
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The Headlights are bright!
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I am working on the fogs but all of the parts aren't here yet. I also have a bypass kit I need to install. Some time this year and next I will be doing a full lift and 4.88 gears.

04/09/16
All of the parts for the fogs finally came in. The only source for resistors was China.

Here is one of the two harnesses I made. There is a second identical harness for the other side.
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I didn't take any pictures but the resistors are fairly large and easily attach with zipties to the light bracket. There is some extra wire and all of it cleanly attaches to the Rigid brackets inside the bumper. I have not aimed the lights yet.
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I also installed a bypass kit. The harness was a little short and I couldn't get my screw gun into the space in the instructions. The relay/control box is mounted behind the airbox. If I ever install a second battery there I will have to move the control box.
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04/15/16
Truck top came in last week. SnugTop SS

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05/13/16
The steering box brace took about an hour total. No real surprises.

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05/22/16
My spare tire and wheel came in last week. I picked it up on Friday and didn't notice they put the stick on wheel weights dead center in the wheel so they interfere with the front calipers. I took the wheel back Saturday morning and asked to have it rebalanced moving the weights out of the path of the calipers. This is what they gave me back. Note: The white strip is from the original wheel weights they peeled off.

They'll be rebalancing the wheel again and cleaning off the adhesive. I'll probably roll the tire up to their front counter so everyone can see it.

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That is 10 ounces, 5 on each side. LOL!

06/23/16
I have been out of town so I have barely driven the truck. I can't really give an informed opinion of the difference in ride quality. The spring rates feel close to stock but the dampening is much smoother. I have only driven the truck less than 50 miles so take it for what its worth. I assume the springs will settle slightly and the shocks will loosen up a little.

The carrier came in and I put it on. I am missing parts so this is temporary. I wanted to get an idea of ride height mainly. The truck cap is back and will get reinstalled on Saturday.

The front is almost exactly +1.5" over stock. The rear is the same height as stock. it should be pretty level with 350 additional pounds in the bed from the truck cap, spare, and carrier. I will be building out the bed in a month or two also.

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06/23/16
How about some perspective on Thuren coils?

The factory alignment had so much toe-in that my front tires were feathering. While rotating the tires I took a picture of the weighted driver's side coil. Both pictures are with the axles on jack stands. Toe-In was set to 0.0 and caster was left stock.

Factory coils:

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Thuren gas coils:

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09/02/16
Starting the bed system this weekend. Doubt I'll get it finished though since I'm missing hardware. The electrical components came in this week, hopefully I can get that set up next weekend.

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10/02/16
Finished up the bed build and auxiliary battery system. The bed is built out with 3/4" medium grade ply boxed and mechanically locked via routed slots to the tie downs in the bed. The center section is 1 1/8" ply and is removable. The center pulls out so I can store the spare tire in the bed when not camping. The sections over the wheel wells do not open. I had a DeeZee rubber bed mat I cut to fit the floor and the insides of the small boxes. I am not a carpenter so this was a huge pain in the ass.

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The battery is attached to a Blue Sea ML-ACR with in cab remote. 2/0 cable runs from the relay to the rear battery with a 350A fuse. I may use a 500A fuse later if I run into any problems; it would only be during peak winching loads when batteries are combined (very rare). The system is easily expandable to three rear batteries. I have plans for power in the bed but haven't got that far yet. The remote is wired to a dimmed circuit and operates with the dash lights.

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11/12/16
I had a chance to drive the truck, the rear end is planted and no longer walks from side to side. The track bar went from 6 degrees to 1.5 degrees and nearly flat. The joints are no longer torsionally loaded so the bar isn't acting like a spring when the suspension compresses. Thuren's brackets look stronger than the axle mount, I think you'd rip off the mount before the brackets broke. After a couple of road trips with the stock truck I'd recommend changes to the rear bar, the factory track bar is pretty cheap and the mount doesn't reduce the angle enough. This is one of the first modifications I'd make to a stock truck.

The cartridge joints are significantly larger than stock.
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Length comparison, Thuren vs. OE
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The factory angle
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The new angle
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The new bracket. The factory bolt is redrilled lower so the change in location is a little misleading from just the picture. You can see how much longer the new bar is though.
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The Power Wagon rear axle has a different track bar mount from a standard 2500 11.5 axle. The hump in the mount is the built in rise to accommodate the factory 2" lift. The Power Wagon doesn't simply just have 2" taller springs, the fount end has a longer track bar and the rear end has a taller (axle end) mount. This picture was taken when I initially began to fit the bracket and discovered the Power Wagon axles are unique to the model. Don ended up finishing the installation to determine the viability of the existing brackets (versus making Power Wagon specific brackets).
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01/13/17
Seems like a good idea.

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01/13/17
If you know what you're looking at you'll get it.

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01/19/17
A while back I asked for seat bolt specs for the driver's side front bolts but didn't get any responses. The answer was M8x1.25. I've been working on a driver's side holster that either does not require drilling or is supported by the tub. I'm not opposed to drilling but I'd rather not if possible. After pulling the center console I came to the conclusion that attaching a holster to the plastic next to the transfer case shifter doesn't provide enough support for a loaded handgun bouncing down a rough dirt road. Ram Mounts happens to make a series of 1" ball mounts with a M8 center bolt so I replaced the seat bolt and ordered a 6" Ram Mount arm. The holster is a hard mount Dara custom kydex holster for a G20 and TLR1 light with 1" Ram Mount. You can move the holster around as well as change the arm to a different length if required for seating position. The mount is very solid.

I haven't done any drills yet but can already tell this is faster than drawing from a belt holster. Drawing doesn't require leaning over or moving from the relaxed seated position. The pistol is slightly below the seat and does not contact my legs. I can draw without sweeping my extremities or the passenger.

Here is the 1" ball attached to the seat frame:
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Here is the mount adjusted with the seat moved rearward:
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With the seat adjusted, does not contact the console or seat:
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01/21/17
I've had this in my garage for a couple of months. Decided to put it on. The first two wraps went on perfect, the rest is less than ideal but will get pulled out anyway. The rope came with correctly sized bolt, a minimum safe wrap indicator, and 10' abrasion guard. I haven't used it yet but the quality looks good at this point, I wasn't comfortable with cheaper Chinese ropes.

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06/09/17
Overheads LED's wired to the cap's dome light.

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07/13/17
Full droop with skid lowered 1.5".
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A little chop foo 2" drop (static ride height):
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07/15/17
Out with the old, in with the new.

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07/12/17
The module is clamped to the lower radiator support. I bagged the open end. The pushrod is depressed with electrical tape. I can have the entire module out in five minutes so if I need to change anything it's easy. No permanent mods either.

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09/25/17
If you can get a DetMan skid you won't be sorry if you do. No one else is doing this.

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03/30/17
The truss is on and painted. Damage Wagon did the welding on a Sunday. The Carli diff guard doesn't fit with the truss unless you cut off the lower lip.

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05/26/17
Hydro time. The installation was pretty straight forward. The original plan was to attach the hoses to the track bar but after running them there is not enough clearance between the bar and the cross member. I was having a hard time understanding why AEV runs the hoses in front of the cross member, but it became pretty obvious. Fortunately I had the hoses made too long so they're perfect this way. They don't look very clean but they're out of the way and don't touch anything. The hardest part of the installation was routing the hoses, everything else bolted right up. I drilled two small holes in the cross member to run zip ties through.

Damage Wagon made the tie-rod brackets, the hoses were made locally, and the rod end spacers came from Jegs and Summit Racing.

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07/19/17
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Last edited by Reloaderguy on Fri Aug 17, 2018 10:35 am, edited 19 times in total.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:00 pm

Thanks for the compliments. It is hard to tell but the truck needs 1" to 1.5" in the front because the back is so tall. The truck works but is just too low in the front. Also, the stock suspension is pretty stiff. I should know soon which way I'm going.

I can't decide; as much as I like the Power Wagon badging on the tailgate I think it will probably go. It makes cleaning the tail gate impossible. I should have taken a picture; the factory does a poor job pressing on the badges so there was dirt (stones actually) and water under the every letter and number. I'm probably going to remove the rest the next time I wash the truck. I can't stand the thought of dirt and water under the adhesive. I don't care if the truck gets dirty but mud rubbing the paint will only turn into rust.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Apr 09, 2016 7:41 pm

All of the parts for the fogs finally came in. The only source for resistors was China.

Here is one of the two harnesses I made. There is a second identical harness for the other side.
Image

I didn't take any pictures but the resistors are fairly large and easily attach with zipties to the light bracket. There is some extra wire and all of it cleanly attaches to the Rigid brackets inside the bumper. I have not aimed the lights yet.
Image

I also installed a bypass kit. The harness was a little short and I couldn't get my screw gun into the space in the instructions. The relay/control box is mounted behind the airbox. If I ever install a second battery there I will have to move the control box.
Image
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by FirerescuePW » Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:16 pm

Be careful using zip ties on the resistors. Most resistors need to be mounted on a flat metal surface with screws or bolts to dispatch heat.
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WINCH MOB PROUD!

SuperChips FlashPaq; DT ProFab Steering Brace; 08.5 Steering linkage (twice); Toyo Open Country M/T 35/12.50x17; Carli front diff guard; Rockcrusher rear diff cover; White Knuckle Offroad Rock Rails; Carli 3"coils, track bar, and High Clearance Control Arms; Carli King 2.5" Remote Resi Shocks; Reflex spray-in liner; Extang Trifecta tonneau cover; Pop Lock electric tailgate lock (OOS); Tekonsha Prodigy brake control; LEDS & Strobes & Siren; Winch TPS Bypass; Warn Wireless Remote; Dog hair, and a BIG Wish List!

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:44 pm

FirerescuePW wrote:Be careful using zip ties on the resistors. Most resistors need to be mounted on a flat metal surface with screws or bolts to dispatch heat.
That is a 50W .47Ohm resistor, the lights only draw 24W/2A. It only gets slightly warm. We're not trying to reduce power (even though we are to a small degree), just trick the computer into thinking there are still functioning halogens in the system.

ETA: I ran the lights on all day yesterday to make sure I wouldn't get a bulb out error or flickering. If you look closely at the picture I secured the positive wire to the resistor with a single wrap of electrical tape. The resistor and the rest of the assembly looks exactly like it did in the picture. I also verified the temperature by hand after the fogs had been on for 30 minutes.
Last edited by Reloaderguy on Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sun Apr 10, 2016 9:34 pm

15wbpw wrote:Any issues with flickering on your headlights? I have the retrofitsource kit and it flickers randomly and drives me insane. Also they're over 200$ a kit. I might have to try what you have.
I have not had the HID kits for very long and have only driven the truck a limited amount. With that said, the DDM kits in my truck do not flicker or randomly shut off as has been reported with other aftermarket HID kits in 2015+ Ram trucks. Same goes for the fogs (which is why I needed the resistor).
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:13 pm

This is the kit(s) I installed: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDMPlusCanbus35W

The kits have resistors/decoders built in, no relays or externally mounted resistors. Straight plug and play. I think there are a few 2015+ compatible systems out now but this is the cheapest and has a ton of feedback on multiple Ram forums. I don't get any flickering or lights flashing out.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:05 am

Truck top came in last week. SnugTop SS

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Apr 16, 2016 1:17 am

Thanks. I bought it from a dealer in Grants Pass, Oregon. The dealership owner came out and adjusted the door personally. I thought it was pretty simple but it took some work I never would have thought of. The top's locks are tied to my tale gate locks and open with the OEM keyfob. There is a 12V overhead light that I will probably convert to dual LED strips.

I bought the cap to sleep in on climbing trips. I am going to build a platform in the bed and mount the second battery for duals.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Mon Apr 18, 2016 12:54 pm

Anyone have a suggestion on spare tire carrier options? I am planning to build out the bed of the truck for storage and sleeping. I am looking at a Wilco Tire Hitch carrier but am worried about the weight but mostly dragging the carrier on the ground (departure angle). My options seem to be bumper/carrier combo (most expensive), hitch carrier, or roof rack. The thought of having to take a 37" tire off the roof is not appealing for a number of reasons.

So, anyone have an opinion or experience? I see a lot of guys throw their spare in the bed but that won't work with my given plans and intended use.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Mon Apr 18, 2016 9:05 pm

04Ram2500Hemi wrote:Wow- sharp truck!!!
Thank you.
Will wrote:A tire gate would be ideal, probably have to build one though. Might put some Boogies between that topper and the cab... Hahaha
I have no plans to "boogie" at high speed. I looked at bumpers but $2500 is more than I want to spend. I can live with the tire in the bed for normal driving but for road trips it has to go outside. That's the only reason I'm considering a hitch carrier. If someone has a more cost effective (read: cheaper) bumper/carrier combo I'd love to know.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:54 pm

15pwag wrote:I love that blue!!!! Looks great!!!! The previous owner had a topper on my new truck and it now has two nice dents on the cab corners. With paint chipping off that the dealer is gonna fix. Great lookin truck tho!!!!
I appreciate your feedback on the topper. I''d like to avoid a dented cab it possible.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Will » Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:36 am

Reloaderguy wrote:
15pwag wrote:I love that blue!!!! Looks great!!!! The previous owner had a topper on my new truck and it now has two nice dents on the cab corners. With paint chipping off that the dealer is gonna fix. Great lookin truck tho!!!!
I appreciate your feedback on the topper. I''d like to avoid a dented cab it possible.
That's why I mentioned it as well, doesn't take much, a good bumpy dirt road and it will connect unfortunately. I have 1-1/4" between the cab and the top corner of the topper and it connected. I think it's the hydromounts on the cab. I've slow crawled and flexed the shit out out of the truck and there's plenty of room. It happens at speed and lots of bumps.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's
http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2333

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Apr 30, 2016 4:56 pm

adeluca73 wrote:Any feed back yet on the 37 R/T's? Did you consider their M/T or one the less popular makes like Falken Wild Peak, Kelly TSR, new Patriots, Dick Cepek etc? I do like the Hankook Dynapro MT's too
I only have 2600 miles on them so take it for what it is worth. The tires have heat cycled enough that the carcass has softened up a bit and I added air. Overall the tire is nice and quiet and handles snow/slush very well (no mud yet). They hum but are significantly quieter than the stock Duratracs. If you've been driving on a set of well warn Duratracs the difference is night and day I'm sure.

I originally wanted an AT because my truck is essentially a very capable road trip warrior for my family. The problem is I don't like AT tires. I looked at all of the usual MT tires, the only one that gets nearly universal positive reviews is the Toyo MT. I also considered the Cooper STT Pro heavily. However, I needed more of an AT so it came down to the Cooper ST MAXX and the Toyo RT. Falken gets horrible reviews and I don't want off brand tires. I hadn't heard of Patriot at the time. The Toyo RT had pretty much 100% positive reviews and a 45K mile warranty so that is what I went with.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat Apr 30, 2016 5:11 pm

Saturday morning mod:

I found this in my reloading bench.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri May 06, 2016 2:29 pm

I don't know about the camera yet, I suspect the tire is going to block it. This is part of the reason the Hitch carrier will only be used on trips where I plan to sleep in the bed.

Unfortunately the truck top is going back to Snugtop next week.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Fri May 06, 2016 2:32 pm

Will wrote:
black_hawk8888 wrote:
Reloaderguy wrote:Steering brace will be here next week. Suspension work will happen some time this month.
Thuren will have hemi specific stuff that quick? Great news! A swinging gate mounted spare would be awesome - will it allow the backup camera to stay in place?
I've always like the Aluminess rear bumper with the swing gate myself. http://www.aluminess.com/dodge/dodge-po ... ar-bumper/
There is almost a $2000 difference between the Hitch-Gate and the Aluminess bumper.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Will » Fri May 06, 2016 2:47 pm

It's a permanent solution though along with a second swing gate for more storage and a better than factory bumper.
2010 with 37" hooves, controlled by numerous Thuren parts and Thuren Custom King 2.5's
http://forum.powerwagonregistry.org/vie ... =13&t=2333

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by 15wbpw » Sat May 07, 2016 12:04 pm

When you bought your hid kit what bulbs did you order 9012 aren't on the list.

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Sat May 07, 2016 3:18 pm

15wbpw wrote:When you bought your hid kit what bulbs did you order 9012 aren't on the list.
I bought 9005 and 9006. But, when they showed up they are both identical. 9005, 9006, 9012 from DDM are all the same bulb and can be purchased interchangeably.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by 15wbpw » Sat May 07, 2016 4:11 pm

Awesome thanks. I was looking at them today and got confused. Put my fog lights in real quick. Waiting for it to cool down outside before I do the headlights.

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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Reloaderguy » Mon May 09, 2016 10:10 pm

Discount tire matched Tread Depots pricing for a 5th Toyo RT and and KMC XD wheel. They'll be here Friday. Steering brace is sitting on my porch.
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by Colibri » Mon May 09, 2016 10:11 pm

Nice! :rockon:
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by adeluca73 » Wed May 11, 2016 12:40 am

Reloaderguy wrote:Discount tire matched Tread Depots pricing for a 5th Toyo RT and and KMC XD wheel. They'll be here Friday. Steering brace is sitting on my porch.
Make sure you wait to snug up the bearing race last, and DO NOT completely remove the sway bar, I thought it give more room to work, there's a reason why Danny didn't say to remove it....don't ask :doh:
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Re: Reloaderguy's Mod Thread

Post by 2wagons1driveway » Wed May 11, 2016 12:44 am

Ditching the snug top eh? What suspension we talkin here?!


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