Power Wagon Registry

Booyaaa Tim boogie rated as fuck!


Sent from Canada

That is some mighty had work right there collar! And that cage is looking beefy.
nts007 glad you are ok, that looks nasty! That cage would have been nice.
Yea whats the cage weigh?

Cage is about 260lbs black pearl.

I ordered a driveshaft from driveshaft specialists out of San Antonio today. Went with a 5" diameter .125" wall Alcoa seamless aluminum shaft with 34 spline yoke and spicer cold forged 1410 joints. For reference stock was 4.5" .082" wall seamless Alcoa. Also ordered an oem front shaft locally. Should move under its own power again next week!

Replaced the rear output seal on the transfercase today as the old one was torn. I picked up the mopar seal driver which made it about a 15 second job once the old seal was pried out. There's a weep hole on the outer seal lip that must be oriented towards the ground, otherwise it's very straight forward.

So... When are you going into the motor? You're gonna need/want more HP ..... Hahaha

Have cnc heads and cam package lined up for the fall actually

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Colibri wrote:Have cnc heads and cam package lined up for the fall actually

haha Awsome have you even driven it with the 5.13's yet?! Come on man!!


Sent from Canada

Hahaha not yet but I'm soooo fucking close I can hardly stand it!

what did the seal driver cost ya ?

Around $70 I think, it's been a couple years though. Don't need it very often but when you do it sure makes life easy.

Got the front and rear driveshafts installed

Front oem but with arp 12pt hardware at the diff flange, I hate the recessed Allen head stripomatics the factory put on. Blue loctite and torque to 21 ft lbs. t case flange stock hardware torqued to 65 ft lbs.

Rear shaft from driveshaft specialists out of San Antonio. Super nice and knowledgeable people that do a metric shit ton of dodge truck shafts. 5" seamless Alcoa .125 wall and 1410 spicer cold forged joints. The weld yokes on the new tube dwarf the factory stuff. This shaft is rated for over 7000 ft lbs of torque lol. A few thousand more than any factory shaft apparently. Use NEW factory hardware and torque to 85 ft lbs. going to have to modify and clearance the last skid crossmember to allow for full droop with the bigger shaft.

More pics

That's beefy. How much is the beefed up rear shaft run you? Require anything special or alterations to fit ?

Any clearance issues with the additional diameter rear shaft?

The rear shaft ran around 700 shipped, they have different tubing options that cost less though as well as the option for 1480 and 1550 series u joints if you're putting big power down.

At full droop the larger shaft just touches the skid plate crossmember so I'll have to clearance for that, otherwise it's plug and play. I've been considering doing an aluminum center skid anyway so I might use this as an excuse lol. If you don't have a lift it would probably work just fine without doing anything I suspect.

Charging up the front hydro bumps and getting them installed today in the home stretch now.

Front hydros are installed, probably going to tackle the steering next. Extreme overkill fabrication linkage with emf dodge taper rod ends.

Is this supposed to be a 7K lb dune buggy????

Lookin' good man...

Maybe I missed it, but what front truss is that? Looks pretty slick.

Oh, and nice shaft BTW...

No homo...

I think they missed a spot on that front shaft. Why so many damn balancing weights on it? I didn't notice it the first time but it caught my eye this time under the truck.

Will wrote:I think they missed a spot on that front shaft. Why so many damn balancing weights on it? I didn't notice it the first time but it caught my eye this time under the truck.

I saw that too. I'm guessing concentric issues in the tube if it's a welded seam tube. Not a big deal. Weights won't hurt a thing. Balance is most important. You should see how bad some of the stock shafts are for balance.

Looks good bud. Let me know how those hydro boogies are. I've thought about em a few times but I don't ride my bumps as often as the rest of you lol

Will wrote:I think they missed a spot on that front shaft. Why so many damn balancing weights on it? I didn't notice it the first time but it caught my eye this time under the truck.

Had to look at his shaft twice...just admiring it...right?

Thanks guys!

the front shaft does have a shit ton of weights but I'm not worried unless it has a vibe. And it is seamed steel tubing.

It's a creative fab truss nova, they're a shop in California that has done enough dodge front trusses that they have a Blanchard ground fixturing jig and chromoly inner tube brace. It's backbone is a 3/8" wall 1.75" preloaded tube with multiple layers of plating in different areas. Knuckle gussets are 3/8" steel plate.

Adeluca73 I don't have a simple answer for you really. I use the truck hard as a farm/ranch truck on my country property so it has to still haul and tow but I also have to travel miles of dirt road that hasn't been graded or maintained in decades to get there and I hate going slow lol.

The hydro bumps are not new to the truck, they're from the trussed axle before this one that I broke. I cut the welds and swapped them over to the new housing is all. I love them off road in boogie mode. The truck feels like a cloud of titties and the only way you can tell the hydros are there is hearing them smacking on the frame strike plates. In town they can be irritating at times, because a slow speed hit on the stops won't compress them but makes a fairly loud noise. If I back out of the driveway too fast the front hydros will smack loudly. It gets old at times.

My rear hydros don't engage around town at all unless I get air at a railroad crossing lol. Off-road they rock. Boogie bumps are a better all round solution for most trucks I believe.

You sure that truss is strong enough?

Patiently waiting to see this truck all put together...

Started messing with the front airline this afternoon. I'm going to follow the factory locker harness routing from axle to firewall because it's the cleanest route. Unfortunately that passes directly by the drivers side exhaust manifold which is a no no for airline. My solution was to sheath the line from axle to firewall in braided insultherm sleeving with a small section of silicone/fiberglass fire braid for extra protection by the exhaust. Got the ARB bulkhead installed and the airline routed and it looks like it'll work nicely.