Low_Sky's Build - 2015 Power Wagon
Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:47 pm
Updated 12/18/2018
Year Make Model: 2015 Laramie PW w/RamBoxes
Current picture:
First week I owned it:
Suspension Modifications:
Thuren 3" Hemi front coils. Thuren link
Thuren rear coils w/SB links. Thuren link
Thuren 2.5" Kings, stage 2 valving, filled with Maxima 7 wt Racing Shock Fluid*. Thuren link Forum link (cold weather shock oil)
Thuren 2013+ front track bar. Thuren link
Thuren 2014+ rear track bar. Thuren link
Thuren Boogie Bumps front/rear. Thuren link
Traxda 1" rear coil spacers (#605041). Amazon link
DOR steering brace (#1038). DOR link
DIY rear swaybar spacers to give clearance between the bar and PCP half spider diff guard.
Wheels and tires:
Stock 2014-2016 Power Wagon wheels.
35x12.50r17 Toyo C/T (summer).
35x12.50r17 Hankook Dynapro MT, studded, siped (winter). Forum link (tire feedback)
Pewag 7mm square link tire chains w/cams.
Exterior Modifications:
Purple Cranium half spider front. PCP link Forum link
Purple Cranium half spider rear. PCP link
Dethloff engine/transmission skid plate. Dethloff link
Custom full length sliders (similar to White Knuckle).
DIY adapter brackets to 10" hawse fairlead for synthetic rope. Forum link
Winch thermal switch bypass. DodgeTalk forum link
DIY plywood dividers for Rambox, in-box storage for disassembled Hi Lift.
Transmission, T-case and axle breather tubes relocated to higher ground. Forum link (good reference info)
EMF balljoints.
Spicer axle shaft U-joints. 5-3212X
EBC Yellowstuff brake pads. DP41848R, DP41847R
Recovery Equipment:
Custom Splice 7/16" x 80' synthetic main line. CS link
Factor 55 Splicer thimble. CS link
1/2" x 50' synthetic extension. CS link
Rope repair kit: Factor 55 fast fid, ceramic knife, waxed whipping twine, electrical tape, permanent marker.
ARB9000 blocks (x2). Amazon link
3/4" and 7/8" Van Beest galvanized screw pin shackles (x2 each).
DIY 3/8" and 1/2" soft shackles (x2 each). Forum thread link
DIY 1/2" x 8' synthetic bridle.
4" x 8' tree straps. Amazon link
2" x 20' polyester tow strap (used as a tree strap, or for flat towing only).
1" x 30' nylon snatch rope.
60" Hi Lift modified for easy take-down/assembly. Amazon link
Hi Lift off-road base modified with ice cleats. Amazon link (base) Amazon link (cleats)
DIY Winch kit for Hi Lift: 5/16" chain slings and 5/16" x 20' G70 chain.
Full tire repair kit and tire spoons.
15 lb CO2 tank. Forum link
Knock-off MaxTrax. Amazon link
Electrical Modifications:
Midland 75-822 CB, I know CB sucks, but it's still in common use in Alaska. Amazon link
4' Firestik antenna. Amazon link
Planned Modifications:
In no particular order and no firm plans; front axle truss, reinforce/replace factor skid protection, 37x13.50R17 mud terrains (summer tires), TrailReady HD17s, high clearance bumpers, braided brake lines, 5.13 gears, hydro assist. Maybe someday rear winch, raised intake.
Rock Sliders
These are basically White Knuckle clones. I have no qualms about it. When I needed these, White Knuckle didn't have their design for the radius arm trucks finished. The custom fabricator who made these had already welded a set for another (now inactive) forum member and could do another on my timeline.
1/4" x 2" x 2" square main tube
Four 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" legs with 3/8" or 1/2" (can't remember) mounting plates
0.120" x 1-3/4" round tube, kicker flare filled with 1/8" diamond plate
Expanded metal treads in front of the doors
Line-X'ed
What works:
The 2x2 main tube has been holding up fine, but I don't make a habit of dropping the truck off rocks. I'm sure WK changed their design to 2x3 for a reason, but it hasn't been a problem for me yet.
The kicker. These long trucks benefit greatly from having something to pivot around.
Expanded metal treads. These are great, and they work no matter what (wet, muddy, snowy).
Tube width. These are wider than WK. They're wide enough that I can open the door, step out onto the slider, and get into the back of the truck without touching the ground (which is really, really nice when you're in the mud and need to get something out of the bed).
What doesn't work:
Line-X. Fine for a "just in case" slider that will never get used. Use the sliders a lot and the Line-X gets cut through, the base metal starts rusting, the Line-X starts peeling, the peeling gets packed full of mud, and it's just a downhill slide from there. For hard-using sliders, do powder or paint.
0.120" tube. Like Line-X, fine for a "just in case" slider. Dents and gouges easily when you really start using them. Get 0.188" if you plan on using them.
What's so-so:
I can't decide if I like the round tubes coming straight out the side, or if I'd like them more kicked up at an angle. They work better as a step coming straight out, but they also get hit on the trail all the time. When I'm on a rock, it's almost always with the round tube, not the square tube. A flare would be a more complicated bend on a kicked-up round tube, but it could still be done.
Hawse fairlead conversion:
Forum link
Year Make Model: 2015 Laramie PW w/RamBoxes
Current picture:
First week I owned it:
Suspension Modifications:
Thuren 3" Hemi front coils. Thuren link
Thuren rear coils w/SB links. Thuren link
Thuren 2.5" Kings, stage 2 valving, filled with Maxima 7 wt Racing Shock Fluid*. Thuren link Forum link (cold weather shock oil)
Thuren 2013+ front track bar. Thuren link
Thuren 2014+ rear track bar. Thuren link
Thuren Boogie Bumps front/rear. Thuren link
Traxda 1" rear coil spacers (#605041). Amazon link
DOR steering brace (#1038). DOR link
DIY rear swaybar spacers to give clearance between the bar and PCP half spider diff guard.
Wheels and tires:
Stock 2014-2016 Power Wagon wheels.
35x12.50r17 Toyo C/T (summer).
35x12.50r17 Hankook Dynapro MT, studded, siped (winter). Forum link (tire feedback)
Pewag 7mm square link tire chains w/cams.
Exterior Modifications:
Purple Cranium half spider front. PCP link Forum link
Purple Cranium half spider rear. PCP link
Dethloff engine/transmission skid plate. Dethloff link
Custom full length sliders (similar to White Knuckle).
DIY adapter brackets to 10" hawse fairlead for synthetic rope. Forum link
Winch thermal switch bypass. DodgeTalk forum link
DIY plywood dividers for Rambox, in-box storage for disassembled Hi Lift.
Transmission, T-case and axle breather tubes relocated to higher ground. Forum link (good reference info)
EMF balljoints.
Spicer axle shaft U-joints. 5-3212X
EBC Yellowstuff brake pads. DP41848R, DP41847R
Recovery Equipment:
Custom Splice 7/16" x 80' synthetic main line. CS link
Factor 55 Splicer thimble. CS link
1/2" x 50' synthetic extension. CS link
Rope repair kit: Factor 55 fast fid, ceramic knife, waxed whipping twine, electrical tape, permanent marker.
ARB9000 blocks (x2). Amazon link
3/4" and 7/8" Van Beest galvanized screw pin shackles (x2 each).
DIY 3/8" and 1/2" soft shackles (x2 each). Forum thread link
DIY 1/2" x 8' synthetic bridle.
4" x 8' tree straps. Amazon link
2" x 20' polyester tow strap (used as a tree strap, or for flat towing only).
1" x 30' nylon snatch rope.
60" Hi Lift modified for easy take-down/assembly. Amazon link
Hi Lift off-road base modified with ice cleats. Amazon link (base) Amazon link (cleats)
DIY Winch kit for Hi Lift: 5/16" chain slings and 5/16" x 20' G70 chain.
Full tire repair kit and tire spoons.
15 lb CO2 tank. Forum link
Knock-off MaxTrax. Amazon link
Electrical Modifications:
Midland 75-822 CB, I know CB sucks, but it's still in common use in Alaska. Amazon link
4' Firestik antenna. Amazon link
Planned Modifications:
In no particular order and no firm plans; front axle truss, reinforce/replace factor skid protection, 37x13.50R17 mud terrains (summer tires), TrailReady HD17s, high clearance bumpers, braided brake lines, 5.13 gears, hydro assist. Maybe someday rear winch, raised intake.
Rock Sliders
These are basically White Knuckle clones. I have no qualms about it. When I needed these, White Knuckle didn't have their design for the radius arm trucks finished. The custom fabricator who made these had already welded a set for another (now inactive) forum member and could do another on my timeline.
1/4" x 2" x 2" square main tube
Four 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" legs with 3/8" or 1/2" (can't remember) mounting plates
0.120" x 1-3/4" round tube, kicker flare filled with 1/8" diamond plate
Expanded metal treads in front of the doors
Line-X'ed
What works:
The 2x2 main tube has been holding up fine, but I don't make a habit of dropping the truck off rocks. I'm sure WK changed their design to 2x3 for a reason, but it hasn't been a problem for me yet.
The kicker. These long trucks benefit greatly from having something to pivot around.
Expanded metal treads. These are great, and they work no matter what (wet, muddy, snowy).
Tube width. These are wider than WK. They're wide enough that I can open the door, step out onto the slider, and get into the back of the truck without touching the ground (which is really, really nice when you're in the mud and need to get something out of the bed).
What doesn't work:
Line-X. Fine for a "just in case" slider that will never get used. Use the sliders a lot and the Line-X gets cut through, the base metal starts rusting, the Line-X starts peeling, the peeling gets packed full of mud, and it's just a downhill slide from there. For hard-using sliders, do powder or paint.
0.120" tube. Like Line-X, fine for a "just in case" slider. Dents and gouges easily when you really start using them. Get 0.188" if you plan on using them.
What's so-so:
I can't decide if I like the round tubes coming straight out the side, or if I'd like them more kicked up at an angle. They work better as a step coming straight out, but they also get hit on the trail all the time. When I'm on a rock, it's almost always with the round tube, not the square tube. A flare would be a more complicated bend on a kicked-up round tube, but it could still be done.
Hawse fairlead conversion:
Forum link