Low_Sky's Build - 2015 Power Wagon Laramie

[Low_Sky]

Updated 12/18/2018

Year Make Model: 2015 Laramie PW w/RamBoxes

Current picture:


First week I owned it:


Suspension Modifications:
Thuren 3" Hemi front coils. Thuren link
Thuren rear coils w/SB links. Thuren link
Thuren 2.5" Kings, stage 2 valving, filled with Maxima 7 wt Racing Shock Fluid*. Thuren link Forum link (cold weather shock oil)
Thuren 2013+ front track bar. Thuren link
Thuren 2014+ rear track bar. Thuren link
Thuren Boogie Bumps front/rear. Thuren link
Traxda 1" rear coil spacers (#605041). Amazon link
DOR steering brace (#1038). DOR link
DIY rear swaybar spacers to give clearance between the bar and PCP half spider diff guard.


Wheels and tires:
Stock 2014-2016 Power Wagon wheels.
35x12.50r17 Toyo C/T (summer).
35x12.50r17 Hankook Dynapro MT, studded, siped (winter). Forum link (tire feedback)
Pewag 7mm square link tire chains w/cams.


Exterior Modifications:
Purple Cranium half spider front. PCP link Forum link
Purple Cranium half spider rear. PCP link
Dethloff engine/transmission skid plate. Dethloff link
Custom full length sliders (similar to White Knuckle).
DIY adapter brackets to 10" hawse fairlead for synthetic rope. Forum link
Winch thermal switch bypass. DodgeTalk forum link
DIY plywood dividers for Rambox, in-box storage for disassembled Hi Lift.
Transmission, T-case and axle breather tubes relocated to higher ground. Forum link (good reference info)


Recovery Equipment:
Custom Splice 7/16" x 80' synthetic main line. CS link
Factor 55 Splicer thimble. CS link
1/2" x 50' synthetic extension. CS link
Rope repair kit: Factor 55 fast fid, ceramic knife, waxed whipping twine, electrical tape, permanent marker.
ARB9000 blocks (x2). Amazon link
3/4" and 7/8" Van Beest galvanized screw pin shackles (x2 each).
DIY 3/8" and 1/2" soft shackles (x2 each). Forum thread link
DIY 1/2" x 8' synthetic bridle.
4" x 8' tree straps. Amazon link
2" x 20' polyester tow strap (used as a tree strap, or for flat towing only).
1" x 30' nylon snatch rope.
60" Hi Lift modified for easy take-down/assembly. Amazon link
Hi Lift off-road base modified with ice cleats. Amazon link (base) Amazon link (cleats)
DIY Winch kit for Hi Lift: 5/16" chain slings and 5/16" x 20' G70 chain.
Full tire repair kit and tire spoons.
15 lb CO2 tank. Forum link
Knock-off MaxTrax. Amazon link

Electrical Modifications:
Midland 75-822 CB, I know CB sucks, but it's still in common use in Alaska. Amazon link
4' Firestik antenna. Amazon link

Planned Modifications:
In no particular order and no firm plans; front axle truss, reinforce/replace factor skid protection, 37x13.50R17 mud terrains (summer tires), TrailReady HD17s, high clearance bumpers, braided brake lines, 5.13 gears, hydro assist. Maybe someday rear winch, raised intake.

Rock Sliders
These are basically White Knuckle clones. I have no qualms about it. When I needed these, White Knuckle didn't have their design for the radius arm trucks finished. The custom fabricator who made these had already welded a set for another (now inactive) forum member and could do another on my timeline.
1/4" x 2" x 2" square main tube
Four 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" legs with 3/8" or 1/2" (can't remember) mounting plates
0.120" x 1-3/4" round tube, kicker flare filled with 1/8" diamond plate
Expanded metal treads in front of the doors
Line-X'ed

What works:
The 2x2 main tube has been holding up fine, but I don't make a habit of dropping the truck off rocks. I'm sure WK changed their design to 2x3 for a reason, but it hasn't been a problem for me yet.
The kicker. These long trucks benefit greatly from having something to pivot around.
Expanded metal treads. These are great, and they work no matter what (wet, muddy, snowy).
Tube width. These are wider than WK. They're wide enough that I can open the door, step out onto the slider, and get into the back of the truck without touching the ground (which is really, really nice when you're in the mud and need to get something out of the bed).

What doesn't work:
Line-X. Fine for a "just in case" slider that will never get used. Use the sliders a lot and the Line-X gets cut through, the base metal starts rusting, the Line-X starts peeling, the peeling gets packed full of mud, and it's just a downhill slide from there. For hard-using sliders, do powder or paint.
0.120" tube. Like Line-X, fine for a "just in case" slider. Dents and gouges easily when you really start using them. Get 0.188" if you plan on using them.

What's so-so:
I can't decide if I like the round tubes coming straight out the side, or if I'd like them more kicked up at an angle. They work better as a step coming straight out, but they also get hit on the trail all the time. When I'm on a rock, it's almost always with the round tube, not the square tube. A flare would be a more complicated bend on a kicked-up round tube, but it could still be done.








Hawse fairlead conversion:
Forum link

[Low_Sky]

[EDIT] Relocated to first post 12/18/2018 [EDIT]

[Low_Sky]

[EDIT] BakFlip F1 cover is off the truck. Monopolizes all the T-track real estate (which I need to use), and wasn't very compatible with snow and ice. It was an OK flush-mount tri-fold cover, but doesn't fit with how I use the truck these days.[EDIT]

[Low_Sky]

The 6.4L Hemi goes through dead dinosaurs like there's no tomorrow.


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[Low_Sky]

Holy crap it's been a long time since I updated this.

Hawse fairlead conversion: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5365&sid=14b809e26c ... f0e7423e5c

Truck is on 35" Toyo CT's these days. I've been happy with the performance on ice and snow so far.

It's winter now, so the truck stays covered in permafilth.

[Low_Sky]

The PWagon is getting lots of attention this year.

I did all the breather vents a couple weeks ago. Good thread for reference info --> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4725&sid=b0895befb5 ... 4b5#p95168

DOR steering brace and PCP front and rear spiders are on the way. Dethloff skid, Thuren goodies and kings are in the works too. It's gonna be a long two months waiting to get all this stuff on.

[Low_Sky]

That’s awesome! Going to have a whole new driving experience with all those fancy parts! Can’t wait to see it come together sir

Maybe on Don's springs and 2.5" Kings I won't back up a train of SxSs and ATVs behind me on some of the trails around here, haha. Full disclosure, there are also stretches of river bottom around here where I get passed by cyclists on fat tire bikes. The OEM Bilsteins are a joke on this truck.

[Low_Sky]

What valving did you go with?

Stage 2 plus a little extra rebound. Marcus says at cold Alaska temps the stage 2 is going to feel closer to stage 3 for you southerners.

[nts007]

Stage 1 can feel like stage 4 in the cold. I did some re valving with don on his 2.5s and changed the fluid to amsoil shock therapy light. I started at a stage 2. Now I'm at like a stage 0.75

[Low_Sky]

Stage 1 can feel like stage 4 in the cold. I did some re valving with don on his 2.5s and changed the fluid to amsoil shock therapy light. I started at a stage 2. Now I'm at like a stage 0.75

Neil, I'll probably be picking your brain about valving and oil when it starts cooling off this winter. I got started googling different shock oil viscosities and VI's the other day but decided it was a waste of effort because I couldn't find any properties for King shock oil, so I really didn't have a benchmark to compare to. As an engineer, it bothers me that I can't find any kind of spec sheet for the stuff, nor even an SDS. That tells me its either super secret unicorn ejaculate, or "the cheap shit" in a King bottle (I'm guessing the latter).

[nts007]

You bet! Be happy to share my findings and struggles.

[Colibri]

#norsemenproblems lol

That’s going to ride so damn nice low_sky! Titty city for sure

[Reloaderguy]

Because of how my rears are valved I have the same problem in warmer temps (still below freezing). The temp sensitivity sucks.

[Retired BLM Rig]

29cabn.jpg (32.1 KiB) Viewed 1938 times

[Low_Sky]

29cabn.jpg

I laughed out loud.

[Low_Sky]

Fun facts about King shock oil:
Kinematic viscosity at 100C: 4.3 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 40C: 22 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 0C: 180 cSt
Viscosity Index: 100
Pour point: -22F

If you live somewhere cold, this stuff is not the right oil for you. I'm going to enjoy the crap out of Don's valving this summer, and when it gets cold I'll have the pleasure of learning shock tuning with a different fluid. Probably Fox or Amsoil.

[Bill2014]

Fun facts about King shock oil:
Kinematic viscosity at 100C: 4.3 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 40C: 22 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 0C: 180 cSt
Viscosity Index: 100
Pour point: -22F

If you live somewhere cold, this stuff is not the right oil for you. I'm going to enjoy the crap out of Don's valving this summer, and when it gets cold I'll have the pleasure of learning shock tuning with a different fluid. Probably Fox or Amsoil.

Those viscosity numbers for the King oil are terrible... I had no idea there was that much variability
How hot does the oil get when you work the shocks hard?

I see a huge outside temperature swing here where I live ( -35F to 95F )

Surely there must be other oil options out there

[Reloaderguy]

Fun facts about King shock oil:
Kinematic viscosity at 100C: 4.3 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 40C: 22 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 0C: 180 cSt
Viscosity Index: 100
Pour point: -22F

If you live somewhere cold, this stuff is not the right oil for you. I'm going to enjoy the crap out of Don's valving this summer, and when it gets cold I'll have the pleasure of learning shock tuning with a different fluid. Probably Fox or Amsoil.

Those viscosity numbers for the King oil are terrible... I had no idea there was that much variability
How hot does the oil get when you work the shocks hard?

I see a huge outside temperature swing here where I live ( -35F to 95F )

Surely there must be other oil options out there

They don't warm up at -25 no matter how fast you drive.

[Low_Sky]

Fun facts about King shock oil:
Kinematic viscosity at 100C: 4.3 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 40C: 22 cSt
Kinematic viscosity at 0C: 180 cSt
Viscosity Index: 100
Pour point: -22F

If you live somewhere cold, this stuff is not the right oil for you. I'm going to enjoy the crap out of Don's valving this summer, and when it gets cold I'll have the pleasure of learning shock tuning with a different fluid. Probably Fox or Amsoil.

Those viscosity numbers for the King oil are terrible... I had no idea there was that much variability
How hot does the oil get when you work the shocks hard?

I see a huge outside temperature swing here where I live ( -35F to 95F )

Surely there must be other oil options out there

Every shock oil has a range like that. The viscosity index is a calculated unitless number that rates an oil’s temperature viscosity stability. 100 was good when the calculation was invented. Now there are hydraulic oils with VIs into the 200s and 300s. Every oil also has a pour point, and that’s independent of the VI. An oil with a 250 VI would be very temp stable, but if it has a -10F pour point, it’s useless as a shock oil for anybody with a real winter.

[TwinStick]

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... ion-fluid/

Amsoil makes shock oil. Only 2 weights right now though. Pour point is -63*F for the #5 & -54*F for the #10.

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g1663.pdf

[Low_Sky]

I settled on Maxima Racing Shock Fluid. The Amsoil viscosity index is around 210. Maxima VI is around 370. Pour point is a little higher for the Maxima, but still should be adequate for the average temps here.

[Low_Sky]

My Purple Cranium half spiders showed up last night.

For anybody wanting to add these; front diff bolts are 10mm hex, rear diff bolts are 13mm hex (you’ll need a wrench or a 3/8” ratchet and short socket to reach under the rear sway bar), and the Purple Cranium stainless bolts are a 6mm hex socket. I didn’t lose any gear oil from the front, lost just a drop from the rear while making the swap. I just did gear oil, so I wanted to leave the covers in place, but if you’re due for gear oil it’d be a good time for a fluid swap since taking the old bolts out gets you halfway there.

I ordered Rust Brown powder coat. It’s a pretty decent match for the exterior paint, and in a few years the undercarriage will match too.

[Low_Sky]

How’s that for a shipping notification from Dethloff Mfg?


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[adeluca73]

How’s that for a shipping notification from Dethloff Mfg?


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Marcus is great.

[Reloaderguy]

My Purple Cranium half spiders showed up last night.

For anybody wanting to add these; front diff bolts are 10mm hex, rear diff bolts are 13mm hex (you’ll need a wrench or a 3/8” ratchet and short socket to reach under the rear sway bar), and the Purple Cranium stainless bolts are a 6mm hex socket. I didn’t lose any gear oil from the front, lost just a drop from the rear while making the swap. I just did gear oil, so I wanted to leave the covers in place, but if you’re due for gear oil it’d be a good time for a fluid swap since taking the old bolts out gets you halfway there.

I ordered Rust Brown powder coat. It’s a pretty decent match for the exterior paint, and in a few years the undercarriage will match too.

The front diff bolts are M8-1.25x23mm if you ever feel like replacing them. I switched to 13mm flange head bolts because the Carli diff guard bolts are junk and I wanted all the bolts to match.

What valving did you get? I need cold weather valving.