2006 Power Wagon Build
- AceMan
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Braided lines? Hmm. Never thought of that.
Any suggestions for a brand name? Any of our vendors in our forum sell them?
Any suggestions for a brand name? Any of our vendors in our forum sell them?
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
I forgot where I got my "kit" If I remember correctly, I think I paid $160 +/- I will look through my receipts to find out. But yes,,, made a big difference in pedal feel AND braking effect,, Honestly I bet I felt about a 15% improvement.. The stock rubber lines that run from the "hardlines" from the frame are rubber, and "give/flex" when you apply pressure to them. The Stainless Braided lines are Stout, and don't "expand" under pressure, so when you stomp on that left pedal, the results are less spongy, firmer feel, and with less "give" in the line results are a greatly improved braking all around. I def. recommend going that route to improve your braking.
I will let you know as soon as I find the receipt, but I am sure there is info on Google for the kit, I will say the front was easy to replace off the frame rails, and the rear came with everything from the junction block to the calipers.
I will let you know as soon as I find the receipt, but I am sure there is info on Google for the kit, I will say the front was easy to replace off the frame rails, and the rear came with everything from the junction block to the calipers.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Thanks. I'm trying to search, but it's tough from a phone and all the possible links, and some places don't have anything for a 2500.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
gun45boat wrote:I forgot where I got my "kit" If I remember correctly, I think I paid $160 +/- I will look through my receipts to find out. But yes,,, made a big difference in pedal feel AND braking effect,, Honestly I bet I felt about a 15% improvement.. The stock rubber lines that run from the "hardlines" from the frame are rubber, and "give/flex" when you apply pressure to them. The Stainless Braided lines are Stout, and don't "expand" under pressure, so when you stomp on that left pedal, the results are less spongy, firmer feel, and with less "give" in the line results are a greatly improved braking all around. I def. recommend going that route to improve your braking.
I will let you know as soon as I find the receipt, but I am sure there is info on Google for the kit, I will say the front was easy to replace off the frame rails, and the rear came with everything from the junction block to the calipers.
Good advice, thanks.
2006 Power Wagon, factory rock rails, Carli 3" with Carli control arms and Deaver rear springs, Bilstein shocks with remote reservoir, 2008.5+ steering upgrade, 37" Cooper STT's on stock wheels, Warn wireless winch controller, Dynatrac ball joints........and more to come as the wallet allows.
- AceMan
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Thank you!Mr.Smith wrote:http://crownperformance.com
I chose, "Dodge Ram 2500 4WD 2003-2011 4"-6" Lift - Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit" (DODGE12FR04)
But what do you choose for Length over stock (4", 5" or 6")?
I would assume to keep it as stainless steel to choose "Clear" for the color.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
How big of a lift are you going? Clear, black, blue, green...they're all stainless, this is just the color of the outer layer for aesthetics.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
I'm putting on a set of Carli front springs, which supposedly gives you about a 3" lift, stock rear with Thuren's shackle for an extra inch. Stock arms.
The 0" to 3" seems pushing the limit. Wouldn't it be better for the next level at 4" to 6" or do you think that's too much slack?
The 0" to 3" seems pushing the limit. Wouldn't it be better for the next level at 4" to 6" or do you think that's too much slack?
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
I've the same setup & 3" is plenty...pick a color & you'll be set. Too much & they'll rub the tires/tire chains/control arms/etc. when turning or during suspension cycling, as well as be susceptible to snagging on obstacles/debris. Also you will still have a slight soft pedal, due to the fact that from the rear caliper to the axle hard line "soft"/hoses still need replacement, but you can get those built as well. It'll consist of cutting & reflanging the axle hard line, or finding an adaptor/collar to join the two. A stock Ram 2500 & the PW share the same length brake lines...FYI.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Thanks for the info. They should offer the axle hose replacements. I'm not able to cut or build hoses. Do they sell them anywhere? I figured get it all done in one shot, if possible, so all lines are stainless if not hard lines.Mr.Smith wrote:I've the same setup & 3" is plenty...pick a color & you'll be set. Too much & they'll rub the tires/tire chains/control arms/etc. when turning or during suspension cycling, as well as be susceptible to snagging on obstacles/debris. Also you will still have a slight soft pedal, due to the fact that from the rear caliper to the axle hard line "soft"/hoses still need replacement, but you can get those built as well. It'll consist of cutting & reflanging the axle hard line, or finding an adaptor/collar to join the two. A stock Ram 2500 & the PW share the same length brake lines...FYI.
- AceMan
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
I guess I'm a little confused. I have to crawl under the truck to see what hoses there are in the rear. Looking at this link with the parts break down for a 2010, but I have a 2006, and they should be the same, assuming so,(http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/sho ... odel=15505), it looks like there are two additional hoses on each side, besides the one that Crown gives you in the kit. Now why don't they just offer everything in one shot?
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
No Idea, other than mainly allowing for taller suspension on lifted vehicles...
There are X2 front hoses(from calipers to frame hard lines), X1 rear hose(from axle hard line to frame hard line) supplied by Crown. Then there are X2 rear hoses(from caliper to axle hard line) not supplied by Crown. The rear caliper hoses are press clamped to the rear axle hard lines as one unit each side. You would have to replace each from the caliper to the axle T block(easiest option). Or cut & reflange the hard line & install with a correct fitting to adapt the new hose to it(exactly like the front). Call them & they'll give you an idea of how to go about accomplishing this, or send them your rear lines & let them build it for you.
There are X2 front hoses(from calipers to frame hard lines), X1 rear hose(from axle hard line to frame hard line) supplied by Crown. Then there are X2 rear hoses(from caliper to axle hard line) not supplied by Crown. The rear caliper hoses are press clamped to the rear axle hard lines as one unit each side. You would have to replace each from the caliper to the axle T block(easiest option). Or cut & reflange the hard line & install with a correct fitting to adapt the new hose to it(exactly like the front). Call them & they'll give you an idea of how to go about accomplishing this, or send them your rear lines & let them build it for you.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Ok. Thanks, I appreciate your help!
I'll just order the kit and go from there.
Happy New Year!
I'll just order the kit and go from there.
Happy New Year!
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
I might go with the longer lines, just in case you think you are going to go bigger lift etc. You never know, you might want to go with a 6" lift and 40's You can always just tie them out of the way..
I know this will not go with your build, since mine is a little different, but it is VERY easy to cut you factory line from the frame and flange it to work with a braided system. ANY racing shop in you area with have most the parts you need for a "conversion" ie: lines in all sorts of lengths, fittings, 90's, 45's caps etc.etc.
I used all Areoquip parts and lines. it is easy to cut and flange from the frame feeder, then just tap and go:) I think I have about $90.00 in all the parts and pieces to make mine work with all the flexing that the 4 link will do. Pedal feel is VERY good.
The rear lines have not been finished yet (clamps) to make them look purdy.. because I am still waiting on the damn shocks to arrive
I know this will not go with your build, since mine is a little different, but it is VERY easy to cut you factory line from the frame and flange it to work with a braided system. ANY racing shop in you area with have most the parts you need for a "conversion" ie: lines in all sorts of lengths, fittings, 90's, 45's caps etc.etc.
I used all Areoquip parts and lines. it is easy to cut and flange from the frame feeder, then just tap and go:) I think I have about $90.00 in all the parts and pieces to make mine work with all the flexing that the 4 link will do. Pedal feel is VERY good.
The rear lines have not been finished yet (clamps) to make them look purdy.. because I am still waiting on the damn shocks to arrive
- AceMan
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Looks good. I'll just stick with the stainless braided and stock axle lines for now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Carli makes some nice brake line kits * in case you haven't found any you like. Think their 180$ from George at 8lug
Sent from somewhere your not
Sent from somewhere your not
if guns kill people
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
https://klmperformance.com/product-cate ... ake-lines/
Brake line kit that I used.. You can build them to spec for only $157
Brake line kit that I used.. You can build them to spec for only $157
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
My 20006 PW has just turned about 62,000 miles, so I figured it was time to do some preventative maintenance. Dynatrac ball joints installed, new wheel hub unit bearings, replaced pinion seals and Royal Purple in the both diffs. I really wanted to go with a free spin kit up front, but couldn't justify nor afford the extra cost. My bank account is once again tapped, but worth the peace of mind.
2006 Power Wagon, factory rock rails, Carli 3" with Carli control arms and Deaver rear springs, Bilstein shocks with remote reservoir, 2008.5+ steering upgrade, 37" Cooper STT's on stock wheels, Warn wireless winch controller, Dynatrac ball joints........and more to come as the wallet allows.
Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
The truck drives amazing and I'm really glad I dropped the cash. Before the repairs I had a noise coming from the driver side wheel at low speeds. Now that the repairs are done, no more noise. I am pretty sure the unit bearings were ready for replacement. Everything feels much tighter on the front end. Money well spent.
2006 Power Wagon, factory rock rails, Carli 3" with Carli control arms and Deaver rear springs, Bilstein shocks with remote reservoir, 2008.5+ steering upgrade, 37" Cooper STT's on stock wheels, Warn wireless winch controller, Dynatrac ball joints........and more to come as the wallet allows.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
nice! Tight front ends are good front ends
Sent from somewhere your not
Sent from somewhere your not
if guns kill people
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
2006 Power Wagon Build
I finally mounted my 37" spare tire. Sheepdog Outdoorsman found a set of 4 power wagon wheels for sale on Craigslist and didn't need all 4, so I bought one for my spare. I mounted the spare vertically in the bed, up against the cab, using rivet nuts, I bolts and a tire hold down strap from Poly Performance. I also mounted my High Lift jack. I used rivet nuts into the bed of the truck and bolted it through the bottom of the jack and one of the holes in the cast iron part. The jack and spare tire are both solid and have no movement. Here are some pics.
2006 Power Wagon, factory rock rails, Carli 3" with Carli control arms and Deaver rear springs, Bilstein shocks with remote reservoir, 2008.5+ steering upgrade, 37" Cooper STT's on stock wheels, Warn wireless winch controller, Dynatrac ball joints........and more to come as the wallet allows.
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
Nice!
Try to imagine pugs living in the wild- just roaming in the forest in packs...
Try to imagine pugs living in the wild- just roaming in the forest in packs...
if guns kill people
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
pencils mispell words
cars make people drive drunk
and spoons made rosie o'donnel fat
"The one thing you realize when you aquire your trade standard is you realistically don't know Anything"
- Mr.Smith
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Re: 2006 Power Wagon Build
^^^ Hahaha! PUG-LIIIFE!